My Van 2017 Ram Promaster 1500 Cargo 136 V6

[tnvangirl]

Thank you everyone for all of the great advice. I am definitely planning on taking my time with plenty of test trips in between to figure out what works and what doesn't.

 

[John61CT]

> I've never liked the concept of deliberately making holes in the floor of a van to fasten down wood. Sooner or later, whatever sealant you're going to use to seal the screws in the holes is going to deteriorate and allow splashed water from driving on wet roads to penetrate. Trapped between the metal floor and the plywood, something is going to rot or rust, take your pick.

100% true if you don't know what you're doing, 100% false if you do it right.

Learn techniques used in marine, aviation, military designs, etc. Sure nothing lasts forever, but starting with a sound vehicle not even a challenge nor expensive to make such fittings last 5-8 years between refurb cycles.


> I used 5/8" thick plywood, cut carefully to fit all the little notches and indents on the sides of the van. Cut just slightly oversized, I had to apply some pressure to the second board to get it in to place.... [emoji2]  Once the cabinets were screwed to the floorboards, that floor is going nowhere!

And you're carrying around how much excess weight, spending how much more on fuel, wearing out the suspension faster. . .

Research PlusNuts, you already have as solid a floor as any use case requires, only insulation, comfort and "pretty factor" needs adding.

Keep it light!

 

[SVan]

I have the VanRug in my 136 Promaster and had one in my previous van. It's brilliant. Thermal insulation, cushioning, and sound deadening with the advantage of something that is hydrophobic and easy to clean and remove. I took out the tie downs/bolts on the van floor, poked a hole in the VanRug in that spot and reinstalled the tie downs on top of the VanRug. Holds everything down nicely and keeps tie down points functional. I also put velcro on underside of VanRug and van floor, just along the edge at the side sliding door entrance to keep from catching/lifting the VanRug on entry. 

I don't see any justification for the weight of plywood for a floor. With VanRug you can still use the floor tie down points to bolt in any structure (cabinets, bed etc. you might add). Between those points and adding riv/plus nuts to the endless number of pre-existing holes in the wall and ceiling ribs, why add new holes to the van?

 

[tnvangirl]

I have the VanRug in my 136 Promaster and had one in my previous van. It's brilliant. Thermal insulation, cushioning, and sound deadening with the advantage of something that is hydrophobic and easy to clean and remove. I took out the tie downs/bolts on the van floor, poked a hole in the VanRug in that spot and reinstalled the tie downs on top of the VanRug. Holds everything down nicely and keeps tie down points functional. I also put velcro on underside of VanRug and van floor, just along the edge at the side sliding door entrance to keep from catching/lifting the VanRug on entry. 

I don't see any justification for the weight of plywood for a floor. With VanRug you can still use the floor tie down points to bolt in any structure (cabinets, bed etc. you might add). Between those points and adding riv/plus nuts to the endless number of pre-existing holes in the wall and ceiling ribs, why add new holes to the van?

Thank you so much for replying. This is really helpful. There are several local dealers in my area so I am going to stop by and check out the VanRug. I believe this is the way I am going to go for flooring. I was also planning on using the existing tie downs so glad to know it is working for you. Velcro at the slider- great idea.

 

[mayble]

I didn't screw my floor to the van's floor either.  I'm another who likes to avoid putting more holes than necessary in the van - just a giant hole in the roof for the vent (!), and a smaller cable port on the side.
I'm using the van's cargo tie down points to secure the floor (with L brackets), and to secure the cabinets that will be secured to the floor.  It ain't going anywhere.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I've never liked the concept of deliberately making holes in the floor of a van to fasten down wood. Sooner or later, whatever sealant you're going to use to seal the screws in the holes is going to deteriorate and allow splashed water from driving on wet roads to penetrate. Trapped between the metal floor and the plywood, something is going to rot or rust, take your pick.

I use elevator bolts, in both zinc and stainless...with just a bit of sealant, they are very resistant to water intrusion.

On the top side, if needed, a forstner bit can help you 'countersink' the washer and nut.

 

[tnvangirl]

- just a giant hole in the roof for the vent (!), ...
I'm using the van's cargo tie down points to secure the floor (with L brackets), and to secure the cabinets that will be secured to the floor.  It ain't going anywhere.

I'm dreading the giant hole for the vent but it's gotta be done. I will probably seek professional help for that one.

L brackets secured to the tie downs - great idea - thanks

 

[John61CT]

I love L-track for flexibility in tying down stuff whose size/position changes, as opposed to built-in cabinetry.

Well worth two-three holes to get a dozen+ mount points, an adjustable platform etc.

Top-quality butyl rubber like Maine Sail sell is the ticket for sealing the PlusNut holes.

With galv paint (zinc) as prep, against the hole edges rusting.

Same with mounting solar, roof rack, antenna, fan etc topside.

 

[sometimesido]

measure twice cut once. you can do it!

 

[frater secessus]

[size=small]I got my van! I’m so excited. I took it out this weekend for an overnight and it was great. So much more room than the minivan ☺.

The PM has a surprising amount of headspace for a low roof. It's due to the FWD (no driveshaft running down the vehicle). About 10" taller inside than most cargo vans.

[size=small]I had originally intended to purchase the Bed Rug Van Tred Cargo mat that a couple of people on this forum have purchased and seem to like. My question is how is this different from the thin black mat that came with the van. Does it just provide more insulation/cushioning than the one I already have?

I have a bony butt (or so I have been told) and I can sit directly on the van tred mat for hours. Or stand, or kneel. Mine was just steel floor when I got it so I can't compare to that. Can you sit on the stock mats?

The Tred It just unrolls into the van when you get it out of the box. Unwieldly, so I'd suggest a helper to get it into place. It is rather pricey, although it fits the van closely and has die-cuts so you can access the floor d-ring attachments if desired.

Also I want to purchase some rain guards pretty quickly for the front windows. Any recommendations would be most welcome. Is this something I could probably install myself? Or is it complicated and worth paying someone who knows what they are doing?

You can install them. No big deal.

I originally bought the Auto Ventshade model but it was a terrible design. I ended up with the stock MOPAR window vents; chokingly expensive but well designed. My windows are always opened an inch unless I'm driving with the A/C on.

Here they are mounted:

Not sure where to go next. Do I need the rattletrap?

I don't know. I did put some stick-on stuff but the foamboard insulation seems to do the job on its own. The only place I think needs acoustic dampening is the rear wheel wells.

So do I need insulation or not?

Dunno about that either, but I am in Texas and am insulating mine as I will be traveling later. Got a deal on foamboard on craigslist so using that. It is definitely cooler in the van where the insulation is completed. And, if you are on the fence, it's a lot easier to do the insulation (and wiring) now when the van is empty.

Also: I have collected some info about the Promaster, and you may have already seen the Promaster forum.

 

[frater secessus]

I couldn't leave the doors open at night to cool it as the bugs were very bad... By the way I am installing a roof vent/fan soon, adding sound deadening, have bug nets for my sliding & rear doors, and added window vents with bug screen for both the drivers and passengers window.

Did you notice the PM has a dedicated space just behind the cab for a vent?  The roof ribs stop there so you can sit the fan mount down flat for an easy seal.  Pics from my maxxfan install:




I have the window rainguards and would like to add screens (just hold on with magnets?).  But to get ventilation throughtout the length of the van I added an exhaust vent (like for a stove) on one of the back doors:




Wanted to do this to control humidity, and because my galley will go in about the midpoint of the van.

I glued a bug screen on the inside opening of the vent.  You can definitely tell the fan is pulling/pushing air through it.

 

[1m1a]

Congratulations on your new van. Please let me know how you like the VanRug. Did the thin black mat come with the van that you bought?

Hi - there was no mat in my van, just the metal floor. I like the VanRug texture although I haven't installed it yet. I'm waiting until I finish with the insulation, I should be done with that tomorrow. If I ordered it again, I might go for the VanTred product instead. Seems like it would be easier to keep clean. However, I think I'm going to be very happy with how the VanRug feels on my bare feet

 

[frater secessus]

I did the vantred rather than vanrug because the former is thinner; more headroom.

 

[tnvangirl]

I originally bought the Auto Ventshade model but it was a terrible design.  I ended up with the stock MOPAR window vents;  chokingly expensive but well designed.  My windows are always opened an inch unless I'm driving with the A/C on.  

Here they are mounted:

Thanks for all the advise I have read through your build thread and am very inspired. Especially thank you for posting the picture of the rain/wind guards. I  have to do peel and stick since that front triangle window doesn't roll down with the tiny square window. Seems like others have had good success with it though so that's one less decision I have to worry about. I haven't bought any yet so this may be my first purchase since it seems like something I can do.

 

[tnvangirl]

OK. Maybe I've been "saying" it wrong. Vantred is what I want, not the rug version. I was assuming one of those was a brand name. Thanks for clarifying.

 

[ColdBrook]

Hi ColdBrook 
I also need to get bug nets of some sort for my sliding and rear doors. What kind did you get? What are window vents? did you just put a screen over the window so you could leave them rolled down or is it something special?

Sorry I never saw this post until just now. I bought 4 sets of magnetic door nets for $5 each at Big Lots.  Sewed the edges together on 2 sections to make a wide screen door that still opens in the middle and snaps shut with magnets.  So at $10 per door I have big bug net curtains.  For now I use magnets to hold them across the top & sides of the door openings.  Once my walls are done I will mount them probably by strong velcro.  I bought the metal vents to go in the top of my front doors made specifically for the promaster van.  I got these so that when I leave my dog in the van and enter a store and the Maxxfan kicks on (set to a thermostat to control it) it can draw air through the window vents.  Being sturdy metal no one is going to break into the van easily unless they break a window. I do have no see-um netting to make full window screens for camping when needed also.

 

[tnvangirl]

Sorry I never saw this post until just now. I bought 4 sets of magnetic door nets for $5 each at Big Lots.  Sewed the edges together on 2 sections to make a wide screen door that still opens in the middle and snaps shut with magnets.  So at $10 per door I have big bug net curtains.  For now I use magnets to hold them across the top & sides of the door openings.  Once my walls are done I will mount them probably by strong velcro.  I bought the metal vents to go in the top of my front doors made specifically for the promaster van.  I got these so that when I leave my dog in the van and enter a store and the Maxxfan kicks on (set to a thermostat to control it) it can draw air through the window vents.  Being sturdy metal no one is going to break into the van easily unless they break a window. I do have no see-um netting to make full window screens for camping when needed also.

Thanks for responding. I see a trip to Big Lots in my near future. That's the cheapest price I've seen on those magnet screens. I will also look into the window vents.

 

[galladanb]

Hey gurl!

Congrats on the new Van Build project!!!

I'm about 5 hours north of Atlanta, near Nashville...
I bought the VanTread also but for the express, which BTW, is actually manufactured in Nashville area, LOL!
Took the local dealer three days to get mine, and I had to go pic it up, Go Figure...

Would you be interested in a Possible meet an greet? No biggie if ya dont! PM if you might be, OK?