My generator

[lterry]

False alarm - I think it smoothed out because it was running low on gas.

 

[ZoNiE]

Might have already been mentioned in the 9 pages already, but when shutting off an Onan, you have to press AND HOLD the off button until it stops...Honda's" Hit stop and let go.

My honda RV generator requires you to hold the button in until the green light comes on, I'm used to my old Onan, and letting go as soon as she lights...

It's just one of those things.

 

[lterry]

Might have already been mentioned in the 9 pages already, but when shutting off an Onan, you have to press AND HOLD the off button until it stops...Honda's" Hit stop and let go.

My honda RV generator requires you to hold the button in until the green light comes on, I'm used to my old Onan, and letting go as soon as she lights...

It's just one of those things.

Yeah, we're beyond the not turning off issue. That was the PO's problem. Not mine. Somehow I instinctively knew that you should hold down the button and I did. Magic. But as far as running steady, it's still surging. All signs point to it being the carburator, but I don't know how confident I am as far as going into it like that.

 

[lterry]

You did hook the fuel line back up didn't you?  They run better with a load.  If it is cold there, use an electric 110v heater.  If with a load applied it doesn't smooth out, adjust that screw "thing" until it does. It should sound better (quieter). You may need to look into the muffler being rusted out.  Once you get it running for a couple of hours, let it cool off and start it again (next day).  See if there is still smoke coming out from under it.  Does yours have an hour meter on the remote switch plate?  If so, how many hours?  One that age should have several hundred hours on it.

I don't know if you saw my previous message or not, but the smooth didn't last. I never did disconnect the fuel hoses. I have a lot of little cuts on my fingers right now and figured it should wait. I do believe it's the carburator though. The other forum people seem to think so. Plus, there only about 250 hours on the generator, so that means it hasn't been run near enough. Which means it's more than likely gunky, right?

 

[ahh_me2]

250 hours is definitely not much, and as an older model it probably sat un-exercised for quite a while.
I still think there is a basic choke issue, but there is obviously more to it then that.

Disconnecting the fuel hose and attempting to start it simply allows you to see you have an adequate flow of fuel into the carb.
It is a worthwhile test and you can disconnect it right at the carb, I can point it out in a pic if you're not sure. It's the black rubber line coming up in
the front that goes to the carb, has a small 3 prong clamp at the carb end, easy to remove.

You may need to open the carb, may be enough gunk and varnish that you would need to deal with.

 

[lterry]

250 hours is definitely not much, and as an older model it probably sat un-exercised for quite a while.
I still think there is a basic choke issue, but there is obviously more to it then that.

Disconnecting the fuel hose and attempting to start it simply allows you to see you have an adequate flow of fuel into the carb.
It is a worthwhile test and you can disconnect it right at the carb, I can point it out in a pic if you're not sure. It's the black rubber line coming up in
the front that goes to the carb, has a small 3 prong clamp at the carb end, easy to remove.

You may need to open the carb, may be enough gunk and varnish that you would need to deal with.

That little hose on the front?

 

[B and C]

250 hours is definitely not much, and as an older model it probably sat un-exercised for quite a while.
I still think there is a basic choke issue, but there is obviously more to it then that.

Disconnecting the fuel hose and attempting to start it simply allows you to see you have an adequate flow of fuel into the carb.
It is a worthwhile test and you can disconnect it right at the carb, I can point it out in a pic if you're not sure. It's the black rubber line coming up in
the front that goes to the carb, has a small 3 prong clamp at the carb end, easy to remove.

You may need to open the carb, may be enough gunk and varnish that you would need to deal with.

Choke seems to be working as designed.  Disconnecting the fuel line (don't forget to plug it) and letting it run dry makes room to put carburetor cleaner in the bowl without disassembling the carb.  Easier first try at fixing it.  With the hose disconnected and no fuel in the carb. bowl, take the spray plastic tip extension and stick it up into where you removed the fuel line from.  Try to hold your fingers around where the plastic "straw" enters where the fuel line was connected to.  Wear safetey glasses, you don't want this stuff in your eyes.  Press the button on the can to give it a squirt, pause, repeat.  This will take quite a few squirts as the needle and seat are a restriction point.  Start it (it will run and die) and refill.  Let it sit after reconnecting the fuel line.  If this does not cure it, removing the bowl to clean the main jet is the next step.  The good news is you already have the carburetor cleaner.  Removing the carburetor from the engine is quite a task.  This would be a last resort.  I did not even attempt it on mine and I used to work in a hot rod shop  It was easier to work on it in place on the engine.  

The highest point of the fuel (rubber hose) line attaches to the carb.  The choke lever is on the back side of the carb.

 

[lterry]

Choke seems to be working as designed.  Disconnecting the fuel line (don't forget to plug it) and letting it run dry makes room to put carburetor cleaner in the bowl without disassembling the carb.  Easier first try at fixing it.  With the hose disconnected and no fuel in the carb. bowl, take the spray plastic tip extension and stick it up into where you removed the fuel line from.  Try to hold your fingers around where the plastic "straw" enters where the fuel line was connected to.  Wear safetey glasses, you don't want this stuff in your eyes.  Press the button on the can to give it a squirt, pause, repeat.  This will take quite a few squirts as the needle and seat are a restriction point.  Start it (it will run and die) and refill.  Let it sit after reconnecting the fuel line.  If this does not cure it, removing the bowl to clean the main jet is the next step.  The good news is you already have the carburetor cleaner.  Removing the carburetor from the engine is quite a task.  This would be a last resort.  I did not even attempt it on mine and I used to work in a hot rod shop  It was easier to work on it in place on the engine.  

The highest point of the fuel (rubber hose) line attaches to the carb.  The choke lever is on the back side of the carb.

I will get to that next week. Thanks for the tip!

 

[B and C]

Over on the "Red Rover the Roadtrek" page is a lot of good info.  I think he doesn't check the oil correctly though.

http://www.redroverroadtrek.com/

 

[flying kurbmaster]

This thread is starting to sound like a soap opera, I know nothing about generators never having owned one, never wanting to at this point in my life, I only come to read this thread because of the drama, the characters the suspense and to see if it will ever have a happy ending.
However I do know something about engines, and lawn mowers often have this same issue with reving up and down, I am sure you can google my lawn mower is surging or reving up and down and you will find the reason as it is very common, I think it is a float issue but I am not entirely sure, good luck and keep trying eventually you guys will solve this.