My generator

[lterry]

Thanks Brian, Onan complicates things by stating in almost all of their literature over the past few years that they all have automatic chokes.
I have yet to work on an Onan with an automatic choke, go figure!  lol

I'm looking at the choke position in the pictures that I posted, and that's not how it is now, nor how is seems to be resting naturally at the moment. The choke stays far left now. Moving it to the right a little makes it steady but it won't stay there. It's spring-loaded or something and it goes right back to the left when I take my finger off. That skinny 4 inch rod thing to the right of the choke, keeps moving to the left and right, coinciding with the high/low of the engine sounds. When I push the choke to the right, the engine steadies, and that skinny rod stops moving back and forth. But the choke won't stay there.

 

[ahh_me2]

Ok, well progress is being made! Getting rid of the surging (hi-lo's) is a good thing!

Lemme think a bit on this

 

[ahh_me2]

That skinny 4 inch rod thing to the right of the choke, keeps moving to the left and right, coinciding with the high/low of the engine sounds. When I push the choke to the right, the engine steadies, and that skinny rod stops moving back and forth.

That would be your throttle valve, it is controlled by the governor.

 

[ahh_me2]

I'm looking at the choke position in the pictures that I posted, and that's not how it is now, nor how is seems to be resting naturally at the moment. The choke stays far left now. Moving it to the right a little makes it steady but it won't stay there. It's spring-loaded or something and it goes right back to the left when I take my finger off. But the choke won't stay there.

There isn't supposed to be a spring there, can you look to see if you see one on the backside of the lever?
I'm looking over the manuals again to see if I can find something.
It's also possible the choke is worn and a bit loose and won't hold it's position.

 

[lterry]

There's a little hole on the choke lever that has a small wire in it and where it leads, I don't know. If it's a spring or not, I can't see it, but I can hear it. It definitely sounds like a spring, and makes the lever behave as if it's on a spring. If the spring isn't supposed to be there, then I don't get it. It looks like it belongs with the prefab hole.
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[ahh_me2]

Ok, it looks like you have a linkage there, and it could be connected to an automatic choke, which could imply that it is not working correctly.
According to all the docs I've been perusing, the auto choke is supposed to be right up at the carb.

Can you look down and follow the linkage to see how far down it goes? and to what it might attach to?

The rough running definitely looks like it's choke related, we just need to resolve that issue now.

 

[ahh_me2]

Another option might be to run the genny while holding the choke in the smoothest running position for a few minutes to make sure the engine comes up to temp, and then let the lever go and see if it will hold it's position with smooth running.
Make sure no load(appliances) are turned on for any of these tests

 

[ahh_me2]

There is a forum, Smokstak, that has quite an extensive Onan sub forum, they seem very knowledgeable there.
You might consider signing up there and someone might have the same genny with the same issues resolved.
It's at
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=1&order=desc

and this is the info you would give them:
Generator series is:RV QG 2800
Model number is:KV-FA/26100A

 

[lterry]

There is a forum, Smokstak, that has quite an extensive Onan sub forum, they seem very knowledgeable there.
You might consider signing up there and someone might have the same genny with the same issues resolved.
It's at
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=1&order=desc

and this is the info you would give them:
Generator series is:RV QG 2800
Model number is:KV-FA/26100A

Yeah, unless I develop Inspector Gadget arms, there's no way to reach whatever the choke is attached to without dropping it. More, and heftier, people will have to get involve for me to drop it.

I'm going over to that site now. Thanks for the link AND all of your help!

 

[ahh_me2]

I did find the operator manual for your genny, looked through it and didn't find anything real useful, if you want a copy of the pdf, send me a PM with ur email addy and I can send it to you. Only because I can't provide an easy link for download.

It would be worthwhile for you to have anyway.

 

[lterry]

I did find the operator manual for your genny, looked through it and didn't find anything real useful, if you want a copy of the pdf, send me a PM with ur email addy and I can send it to you. Only because I can't provide an easy link for download.

It would be worthwhile for you to have anyway.

:/ I have to be approved first even though I've verified by email. Lots of hoops to jump through.

 

[lterry]

I did find the operator manual for your genny, looked through it and didn't find anything real useful, if you want a copy of the pdf, send me a PM with ur email addy and I can send it to you. Only because I can't provide an easy link for download.

It would be worthwhile for you to have anyway.

[email protected]
I've recently noticed people are shy about their email address. Just a little note: your email can be switched to exclusive where only certain emails are granted clearance into your inbox. Whereas all "outsider's" email go into the junk folder. When I know I have a foreign email coming, I look in the junk folder and approve you.

 

[ahh_me2]

Ok, I'll send it now, it's an ahh_me2 address....

Sent 3 manuals, operator, parts, service

 

[B and C]

I did find the operator manual for your genny, looked through it and didn't find anything real useful, if you want a copy of the pdf, send me a PM with ur email addy and I can send it to you. Only because I can't provide an easy link for download.

It would be worthwhile for you to have anyway.

Well, you beat me to finding the operator manual

The choke can be used to keep the genny running until it comes up to temperature, takes about 1-2 minutes if the engine is cold.  The choke should be fully open to run.  To the left is open and to the right is closed.  It sounds like yours is starting with the choke open.  The choke is normally only needed when cold.  With it smoothing out with the choke partially closed is a sign that the carb is partially plugged, probably the main jet.  This is what happens when engines are not exercised, they gum up.  Drain the gas bowl by pulling the fuel line off the carb.  Plug the fuel line (electric fuel pump) and start the engine.  Let it run surging or by you manipulating the choke until it runs out of gas.  Put carb cleaner in where the fuel line went into the carb.  It will be going through a needle and seat so it will take a little time to fill the bowl.  Keep adding until it won't hold anymore.  Let it sit for a couple of hours to dissolve the varnish and gum.  I like Seafoam.  Put the gas line back on and wait.  Seafoam is also good for starting engines.  If this doesn't work, the bowl will need to be removed and the main jet cleaned.  Do not stick a wire into the jet to clean it.  Spray it liberally at the hole in the jet with carb cleaner.  You may need physical help from a mechanic.  This could be a shade tree mechanic as these engines/carbs are simple.

The throttle is causing a high vacuum on the main jet when it closes on input from the governor because the engine is dying from lack of fuel.  All of a sudden there is gas to run and the throttle opens so the engine speeds up lowering the vacuum on the main jet and it is starved for fuel and tries to die.  Rinse repeat, surging.  Very common on small gas engines.

Over on the Onan site, they can probably point you to a sticky about the cure for your problem.  Good luck!

 

[ahh_me2]

Well, you beat me to finding the operator manual

I searched high and low for it, had pretty much given up too!
And of course that's when you find it!

 

[B and C]

You always find stuff in the last place you look

 

[lterry]

I searched high and low for it, had pretty much given up too!
And of course that's when you find it!

I got your email. Thanks a bunches!

Very funny, B and C

 

[ahh_me2]

I got your email. Thanks a bunches!

Your welcome! Glad to help!

 

[lterry]

Do not use a cup.  Way too easy to spill gas and does not hold very much.  I was more thinking a larger mayonnaise jar or larger mason jar, not the small ones.  You can clamp the gas line to the inside of the jar between your thumb and index finger.  Put a thumb outside the jar and your index finger in the jar with the hose and jar  in between them.  I do understand about the laying down to work on it.  Mine is slung under the RT and anything I have to do is on my back and sticking hands in there with the propane tank close by. Oil changes are a little tough.  I dropped the Onan when I had to fix it.  It is a lot easier to work on outside the vehicle on the motorcycle jack.  I used a motorcycle jack to R&R that Onan.  For being such a small box it sure weighs a lot, a couple of hundred pounds at least.

I took a closer look at the picture you posted and yours is indeed not calibrated for altitude.  I think it has to be adjusted by hand for the smoothest running.  Take a note of where it is now so you can put it back there if anything goes sideways.  See if you can turn it about a half turn counterclockwise and hit a stop.  Turn it clockwise from the starting position and see if it hits a stop.  Just turning that adjuster in all the way may clean out the passage and help.  My adjuster only turns about 2/3 of a turn from 0-10,000 ft.  It has a stop so I can't turn it any further.  If it has a stop, turn it fully counterclockwise.  This is the rich setting for lower altitude.  Turning it clockwise leans it out for higher altitude.

I think this was the trick! I did adjust that screw looking thing (I vowed that I was no longer calling anything a thingy but "thing" is the best I can do for that oversized screw you pointed out) and it did run much smoother, though sort of...rumbly? I was still trying to adjust when my gas ran out.
Getting more and will report on results soon.

 

[B and C]

I think this was the trick! I did adjust that screw looking thing (I vowed that I was no longer calling anything a thingy but "thing" is the best I can do for that oversized screw you pointed out) and it did run much smoother, though sort of...rumbly? I was still trying to adjust when my gas ran out.
Getting more and will report on results soon.

You did hook the fuel line back up didn't you?  They run better with a load.  If it is cold there, use an electric 110v heater.  If with a load applied it doesn't smooth out, adjust that screw "thing" until it does. It should sound better (quieter). You may need to look into the muffler being rusted out.  Once you get it running for a couple of hours, let it cool off and start it again (next day).  See if there is still smoke coming out from under it.  Does yours have an hour meter on the remote switch plate?  If so, how many hours?  One that age should have several hundred hours on it.