My generator

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ahh_me2 said:
Whichever method is used, you need to ensure that the gas line is fully pinched for the test.

Once you have figured out how to clamp it temporarily, even if it's just holding it manually, you will want to turn the power switch to "On" for a brief moment.

Here is what we are trying to accomplish:
-Is the battery hooked up to the starter.
-Is the Start switch functional
-Is the starter working

If you want to try this and report back, we could then try a few more things to help you get going.

Reporting back:

Okay, I put a piece of material in between the pliers and the hose. Clamped and hit start. Nothing. The little meter on the wall for the genny said that the battery was low. But neither my house battery nor my engine battery is low. So I did a potentially bad thing and took the pliers off and tried to start again. Still nothing and still saying the battery was low. So I thought maybe it's not allowed to use the battery if I'm hooked up to shore power. I am (from inside my house). So I unhooked. Then tried again. Success. Yes, success because it also shut off with no problem. Three times. 
It doesn't run solidly. It idles high for less than a second then stays low for a couple of seconds, idles high another nanosecond, then low for a couple of seconds again.
Something of note while it was running - I didn't want to run it long but I was interested to see what it'd operate while running - it didn't power my outlets. My microwave wouldn't work, my little space heater wouldn't work, my laptop wasn't charging.
On another note, there is a little exhaust pipe, and it does blow some of the exhaust out. However more exhaust was coming from some mystery place right beneath the genny. I didn't look long because I was beginning to feel a bit dizzy. (Tip: put the cover back on you genny when you have it running.)

I'm plugged up again with my rooftop fan running on exhaust.
 
Ok, good start!

Congrats!

Let me ponder this a bit and we'll figure out the next step.

On a side note, when first starting these generators there should be no load on them, so nothing plugged in or turned on. The genset needs to come up to speed and run smooth before running anything off of it. You probably didn't get that far, thus no power.
 
Iterry, what is the approximate temperature outside where you are located atm?

And do you see the lever above the carburetor that says "choke"?

And also , can you maybe take another picture from further back so I can see how it is situated in your vehicle?
 
You have a circuit breaker on or next to your control panel on the genny, make sure it is "on" or "reset"
That controls your output voltage on/off.
Also if you have a small 60watt or 100watt light that you can plug in next time instead of A/C or heater or microwave,
that would be better because it can tell us more info if it's glowing full brightness or not.
 
I noticed in the picture you provided at the beginning, the choke lever looks like it is in the closed position, depending on your ambient temperature, you may want to try again with the choke set to open.
The choke may need to be closed briefly while starting, but if the engine runs smoother when you rotate the choke lever, then set it at the smoothest running point.
This would be where you warm up the genny and you may have to fiddle with the choke a few times until the engine is running smooth and has warmed up.

How old is the gas in the tank? It is probably connected to your vehicle gas tank, does the vehicle engine run fine?
Is there at least a half tank of fuel in the vehicle?
The gas pickup feed tube usually only goes down 3/4 of the depth of tank or so, so your genny can't run your vehicle dry.
 
ahh_me2 said:
I noticed in the picture you provided at the beginning, the choke lever looks like it is in the closed position, depending on your ambient temperature, you may want to try again with the choke set to open.
The choke may need to be closed briefly while starting, but if the engine runs smoother when you rotate the choke lever, then set it at the smoothest running point.
This would be where you warm up the genny and you may have to fiddle with the choke a few times until the engine is running smooth and has warmed up.

How old is the gas in the tank? It is probably connected to your vehicle gas tank, does the vehicle engine run fine?
Is there at least a half tank of fuel in the vehicle?
The gas pickup feed tube usually only goes down 3/4 of the depth of tank or so, so your genny can't run your vehicle dry.

Yes, my van runs fine but there is only about 1/4 of a tank of gas. The gas is maybe four days old. Will try the choke method later. Thank you!
 
There may be trash in the carb too.  I don't see an inline filter in the picture.  Mine has an inline filter right before the carb and can be easily seen with the cover off.  This uses the same gas tank that your van uses and you van engine has a filter.  This needs one too.  Put more gas in the van before anymore tests are run.  At a 1/4 tank you are right on the edge of fuel starvation for the generator and this could give you the surging issue.

Fuel Filter.PNG

The choke is automatic and opens when the generator starts.  It may stay partially closed while it is warming up.  I run my generator for at least two minutes before putting a load on it.  You want the generator running at a steady pace, not surging.  The generator needs to be exercised monthly.  Onan recommends two hours under 1/2 load.  I use the A/C in the Summer and a 1500 watt heater in the Winter for the load.  I only run mine for about an hour.  The remote panel should have an hour meter on it.  Again, put more gas in the tank as this may cure the problem.

Your muffler may be rusted out if there are fumes coming from below the van and not all out the exhaust pipe.  Don't try sleeping in the van with the Onan running until this is rectified.  It may also be where oil was spilled in the case when it was changed and smokes when it gets hot.

There is also an altitude adjustment at the bottom on the side of the fuel bowl on the carburetor.  Make sure this is set for your location.
 

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B and C said:
There may be trash in the carb too.  I don't see an inline filter in the picture.  Mine has an inline filter right before the carb and can be easily seen with the cover off.  This uses the same gas tank that your van uses and you van engine has a filter.  This needs one too.  Put more gas in the van before anymore tests are run.  At a 1/4 tank you are right on the edge of fuel starvation for the generator and this could give you the surging issue.



The choke is automatic and opens when the generator starts.  It may stay partially closed while it is warming up.  I run my generator for at least two minutes before putting a load on it.  You want the generator running at a steady pace, not surging.  The generator needs to be exercised monthly.  Onan recommends two hours under 1/2 load.  I use the A/C in the Summer and a 1500 watt heater in the Winter for the load.  I only run mine for about an hour.  The remote panel should have an hour meter on it.  Again, put more gas in the tank as this may cure the problem.

Your muffler may be rusted out if there are fumes coming from below the van and not all out the exhaust pipe.  Don't try sleeping in the van with the Onan running until this is rectified.  It may also be where oil was spilled in the case when it was changed and smokes when it gets hot.

There is also an altitude adjustment at the bottom on the side of the fuel bowl on the carburetor.  Make sure this is set for your location.

Okay, I have a little more than half a tank now. I didn't see a choke, so I don't know what/where to adjust. I did see an on/off switch and it was already set to on. However, after a try again today, it still did that hi/low thing, like someone revving an engine over and over but very quickly.
How would I find out if there was trash in the carb?
 
The choke is the lever in between the carb and the air filter, it looks closed atm.

See the pic below, it is stamped "choke" and has an arrow on it.

Try moving the choke lever to the left slowly while the engine is running, see  if that smooths out the running.


onon gen 003.JPG
 

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I would not try to adjust anything yet.  It was working fine at some point and if nobody fiddled with any of the adjustments, there is a problem to be rectified first.  These are set to run at a certain RPM so you get 60 cycle 110 VAC.  If it runs too fast or slow there will be a problem with anything plugged in to it.  Mine takes a little while to settle down to a steady running speed, sometimes a couple of minutes.

When I first got my Roadtrek, I dropped the generator onto the ground because it would not start and took the top cover off.  I replaced the air cleaner, the electric fuel pump (the cause of my problem), the fuel filter, the spark plug and changed the oil.  I did this after I got the fuel pump replaced to get it running.  Some of the linkage rods were sticking and I had to free them up (carburetor cleaner to the rescue) to get it running good.  Do not bend or adjust rods, there is a procedure in the manual for all this stuff.  I'll see if I can find more than just a parts manual for you.

How long have you let it run?
How cold is it there?
What is the altitude adjustment set to?
What is the altitude where you are?

Be glad it at least starts :D
 
A test to run to see if there is enough gas getting to the carburetor:

Pull the fuel line off the carburetor and stick the end in a container (I like to use a glass bottle) and hold it there while trying to start the genny.  It will probably start but the test is to see if the gas is pumped smoothly into the container.  It should be a steady flow as long as the genny is running or you are holding the start switch.

If you are not comfortable doing this test, get someone involved who is.

Results?

Fuel Bowl.PNG

This is a generic drawing for an Onan.  The part circled in red is the altitude adjuster.  Mine is actually marked in feet 0-10,000.  The bolt circled in blue is the one to remove to get the fuel bowl off to check for trash/clean.
 

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B and C said:
I would not try to adjust anything yet.  It was working fine at some point and if nobody fiddled with any of the adjustments, there is a problem to be rectified first.  These are set to run at a certain RPM so you get 60 cycle 110 VAC.  If it runs too fast or slow there will be a problem with anything plugged in to it.  Mine takes a little while to settle down to a steady running speed, sometimes a couple of minutes.

When I first got my Roadtrek, I dropped the generator onto the ground because it would not start and took the top cover off.  I replaced the air cleaner, the electric fuel pump (the cause of my problem), the fuel filter, the spark plug and changed the oil.  I did this after I got the fuel pump replaced to get it running.  Some of the linkage rods were sticking and I had to free them up (carburetor cleaner to the rescue) to get it running good.  Do not bend or adjust rods, there is a procedure in the manual for all this stuff.  I'll see if I can find more than just a parts manual for you.

How long have you let it run?
How cold is it there?
What is the altitude adjustment set to?
What is the altitude where you are?

Be glad it at least starts :D

about five minutes...I think
322 ft
75 degrees
I have no idea what the altitude is set to.
Yeah, I am feeling pretty lucky that is starts. :)
 
B and C said:
A test to run to see if there is enough gas getting to the carburetor:

Pull the fuel line off the carburetor and stick the end in a container (I like to use a glass bottle) and hold it there while trying to start the genny.  It will probably start but the test is to see if the gas is pumped smoothly into the container.  It should be a steady flow as long as the genny is running or you are holding the start switch.

If you are not comfortable doing this test, get someone involved who is.

Results?



This is a generic drawing for an Onan.  The part circled in red is the altitude adjuster.  Mine is actually marked in feet 0-10,000.  The bolt circled in blue is the one to remove to get the fuel bowl off to check for trash/clean.

I have to lie down to do anything to the generator. Holding a cup while gas goes into it...scary. I'll get the nerve to do this, or something like, eventually. I need a mantra!
 
lterry said:
I have to lie down to do anything to the generator. Holding a cup while gas goes into it...scary. I'll get the nerve to do this, or something like, eventually. I need a mantra!

Do not use a cup.  Way too easy to spill gas and does not hold very much.  I was more thinking a larger mayonnaise jar or larger mason jar, not the small ones.  You can clamp the gas line to the inside of the jar between your thumb and index finger.  Put a thumb outside the jar and your index finger in the jar with the hose and jar  in between them.  I do understand about the laying down to work on it.  Mine is slung under the RT and anything I have to do is on my back and sticking hands in there with the propane tank close by. Oil changes are a little tough.  I dropped the Onan when I had to fix it.  It is a lot easier to work on outside the vehicle on the motorcycle jack.  I used a motorcycle jack to R&R that Onan.  For being such a small box it sure weighs a lot, a couple of hundred pounds at least.

I took a closer look at the picture you posted and yours is indeed not calibrated for altitude.  I think it has to be adjusted by hand for the smoothest running.  Take a note of where it is now so you can put it back there if anything goes sideways.  See if you can turn it about a half turn counterclockwise and hit a stop.  Turn it clockwise from the starting position and see if it hits a stop.  Just turning that adjuster in all the way may clean out the passage and help.  My adjuster only turns about 2/3 of a turn from 0-10,000 ft.  It has a stop so I can't turn it any further.  If it has a stop, turn it fully counterclockwise.  This is the rich setting for lower altitude.  Turning it clockwise leans it out for higher altitude.
 
Iterry,

I will repeat what I said earlier as it appears you may have missed it.

You have a "Manual Choke", not an automatic one as suggested by others!
The picture of your choke indicates it is in the closed position and your genny simply will not run properly in this position.

Look carefully at the pics that follow.

Picture you supplied of your genny with me pointing out your choke.

onon gen 003.JPG

Close up of your choke, as you can see it is clearly indicated "choke" and the arrow points to the direction of closure.

onon gen 004.JPG

From the parts manual, here is a drawing of your choke assembly
Part #2 is the choke plate and part #3 is the choke lever.

onon gen choke.JPG

All you need to try, is get the engine running, and after 30 secs to a minute, move the choke lever to the left so the choke is no longer engaged.
The engine should run smoother, although you may have to partially move the lever until the engine is running smooth, but just listen to it run while you slowly move the lever
to the left until you find it is running smooth while fully in the left position.

As I said, the engine simply cannot run smooth with the choke engaged!
 

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Good catch ahh-me2. :cool:  I got blinded by the fact that mine has an automatic choke.  This is an older model. :s  It is sooo hard to troubleshoot over the interweb :dodgy:  It would be a lot simpler if we were there to see it.

I have forgotten (so much).  Lisa, are you going to the RTR?  You will get a lot more help there.
 
Thanks Brian, Onan complicates things by stating in almost all of their literature over the past few years that they all have automatic chokes.
I have yet to work on an Onan with an automatic choke, go figure! lol
 
B and C said:
Good catch ahh-me2. :cool:   I got blinded by the fact that mine has an automatic choke.  This is an older model. :s  It is sooo hard to troubleshoot over the interweb :dodgy:  It would be a lot simpler if we were there to see it.

I have forgotten (so much).  Lisa, are you going to the RTR?  You will get a lot more help there.

I want to go SO badly. If it were even a couple of weeks later, I could do it. I know I would learn a lot. But...there's always next time.

Ahh_me, I will choke it in a little bit :D
 
lterry said:
I want to go SO badly. If it were even a couple of weeks later, I could do it. I know I would learn a lot. But...there's always next time.

Ahh_me, I will choke it in a little bit :D

Darn it.  So wish you could go too.  Sooo much to see and learn.  A lot of helpful folks too :cool:

It looks like it might already be in the choked position.  Once it starts, move it slowly to the left and it will probably even out when you get it all the way to the open stop position.  It will be a hard stop when it is all the way open.  If it starts to die, stop moving it or move it back to the right a little until it warms up more.

IDK why Onan put a manual choke on there, cars had automatic chokes for a long time by then. :s
 
B and C said:
Darn it.  So wish you could go too.  Sooo much to see and learn.  A lot of helpful folks too :cool:

It looks like it might already be in the choked position.  Once it starts, move it slowly to the left and it will probably even out when you get it all the way to the open stop position.  It will be a hard stop when it is all the way open.  If it starts to die, stop moving it or move it back to the right a little until it warms up more.

IDK why Onan put a manual choke on there, cars had automatic chokes for a long time by then. :s

Okay, pushing it to the left, well it doesn't really go any further left as that's how it already rests naturally. To the right I can get it to even out. No more high/lows. Further right and it almost goes dead, sounding like it does when I first hit the stop button up top. Why did I keep going right when it sounded okay? Because it won't stay in the "sweet" spot. As soon as I take my finger off of it, it immediately reverts back to the natural position, far left. Even leaving at the almost dead position further right, it won't stay there. Less than a second later, it's gone back to the original, far left, position.
 

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