My build : Red Zeppelin

[cygvan]

ive finally let my hair down and decided to go through my build pics and post some here.<br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br><br>Here she is on the day i got her in april 2011.

 

[cygvan]

ok i see i need some practice sizing photos...

 

[Ziggy Moon]

Oh wow, that's a nice looking van, cygvan.

 

[Ziggy Moon]

Cool Name Also - "Red Zeppelin"! I Like It! <img src="/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">

 

[cygvan]

thanks...it seems the forum software keeps it at a small size when uploaded so im looking for an image host now...<br><br><br><br>edit: my god what a frustrating experience...imageshacks ui is awful lol

 

[cygvan]

after my mechanic gave her a clean bill of health i started working on the cargo area.<br><br>i removed the rubber floor and jute backing (no pic) and removed the jack and its bracket...<br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br>the jack and all of its equipment was relocated under the floor extension that i built which encloses the side door footwell. i dont have a photo of that yet...<br><br>the jack and its bracket were easy to remove. just a couple of bolts. the plastic enclosure was in fair condition, the clasps that keep it closed were broken. eventually i will look for a replacement or put it in a different box that fits in the footwell storage.<br><br>as you can see, the floor was in excellent condition. the only trouble spots were some wear on the one wheelwell and the frame around the right rear door.&nbsp; the van was used by a carpet intaller and he kept it in really nice condition. it looks like the wear was from carpet rolls rubbing on the wheelwell.<br><br>

 

[cygvan]

i sprayed the wheelwell and the door frame with rust preventive rustoleum flat black as it was getting covered anyway.<br><br>here is a photo of the left wheelwell which really didnt have as much wear but i hit a few spots anyway...photo was taken after doing some work on the floor.<br><br>

 

[cygvan]

after driving the van for awhile i got around to starting the floor.&nbsp; i ordered a sound deadener for a few reasons. it deadens the sounds from inside the van (considerably) and it acts as an excellent vapor barrier.<br><br>the product is called Fatmat Rattletrap Extreme 80 mil.&nbsp; its basically butyl rubber (i think) with an aluminum skin. its similar to but not the same as Dynamat. its less expensive but still not cheap.&nbsp; its incredibly easy to work with. i ordered it from the companies ebay store and i got a deal on 100 square feet on my first order. it shipped with a roller and a knife. (the second roll i got was more expensive as the special ran out).&nbsp; if i remember correctly, i spent $250 for all of it and it covered the entire cargo area. floor, walls and ceiling and part of my bulkhead. i did not do the doors yet.<br><br>the specs on it, if interested, exceed that of Dynamat. installing two layers TRIPLES the effect but i did not bother.&nbsp; the material is heavy, i would say it added about 50lbs to the van.<br><br>here are a few photos of the floor and wheelwells being covered...<br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br>in the last photo you see a can of great stuff. i used that to fill in the nooks and crannies all over. i also filled the "studs" with it.&nbsp; there was already some type of adhesive foam behind the "studs" which chevy placed there to stick the outer skin to the "stud" and also provide a barrier so the skin wouldnt flap.<br><br>a word of CAUTION...i have used great stuff expanding foam for many years and i am familiar with its properties.&nbsp; all of the types.&nbsp; i used the regular expanding stuff because i felt that there was enough room for it to expand without forcing anything out of place....<br><br>well...despite squirting it into the "studs" slowly and very carefully, it was so strong that it pushed on the outer skin and when i went outside i was horrified to see my beautiful sidewalls bulging out in a relief (art term) matching the "studs"...<br><br>i FREAKED out....fortunately, after about an hour it subsided as the foam made its way out all the holes in the "studs"...i recommend a defibrillator if you do this lol...

 

[cygvan]

i found two pics i took of the issue i described above. i remember it being very hard to photograph but if you look closely you can see the distortion in the reflection...especially in the black and white.<br><br>this was not the indentation that chevy puts on the skin to outline for the passenger van windows.<br><br>in person, the "relief" or bulge was very prominent, hence the freak out.<br><br> <br><br> <br><br>i may have waited to long to take the photo so it had subsided...phew!

 

[cygvan]

the next thing i recall working on was to get the plywood down on the floor. my floor is constructed of:<br><br>1) a layer of Fatmat Rattletrap Extreme 80 mil.<br>2) 3/4" Pactive EPS (expanded polystyrene) from Lowes. R value of 3.8. It was $11 for a 4'x8' sheet at the time.<br>3) 3/4" plywood from Home Depot. I think it was A-C grade. I dont recall the price. I used the 4'x2' sheets because it is really hard for me to work on the ground (at the time it was terrible...little better now) and i found it so much easier to manipulate the sheets in this size. im no stranger to working with the larger material but these days i dont have as many tools or a place to work so that was another reason.<br><br>i still to this day have not finished the floor so it is still raw plywood and holding up ok. im torn between coin flooring (expensive) or carpet tiles.<br><br>here are a few photos of the process...<br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br>after checking for clearances under the van very carefuly, i laid out where the fasteners would go. i used 2 3/4" stainless steel pan head self tapping screws that i ordered online. i think they were 1/4" thick??&nbsp; i countersunk the heads using a spade bit (not a cone bit) so that the panhead would lay flat. eventually the hole will be filled...or not lol...the great thing is that the Fatmats butyl rubber (or w/e it is) sealed around the screw as it penetrated the sheetmetal of the floor, sealing off the hole. to this day, no rot or leaks.

 

[cygvan]

the timeline of alot of the work is a blur. i was bad at taking photos as i went along (at least by the standards which i set out to do having seen some great threads in this and other forums). having to move around to find a place to work at the time, plus move the tools i did have around (i didnt want to keep them in the van) due to the erratic schedule with which i worked on the van made me forget to document everything.<br><br>but i think i have enough photos to give a general idea of what i did. i definitely changed a few things along the way.&nbsp; ill have a few before and after change posts down the road.<br><br>having said that, next i believe was to work on the walls (it was during this time i had the issue with the foam inside the "studs" so no pics of that lol)...<br><br>first up was applying the Fatmat to the walls...no pics that i could find...<br><br>then applying the Pactiv EPS...this time only 1/2"...<br><br> <br><br> <br><br> <br><br>i cut the Pactiv into smaller pieces which made it much easier to apply to the curvature of the walls.&nbsp; the Express van is a study in compound angles and curves...i used a Loctite brand adhesive to stick the Pactiv to the aluminum surface of the Fatmat. worked perfectly and once cured, was very strong.<br><br>i then covered the seams with aluminum foil tape.<br><br>then filled the "studs" with foam...no pics as i mentioned<br><br><em>a note about the Pactiv.&nbsp; i noticed it was covered in a clear plastic layer on both sides. the 3/4" was not but the 1/2" was.&nbsp; curious, i phoned Pactiv (dont recall the parent company) and actually spoke to an engineer!!&nbsp; he said that the smaller thicknes panels are wrapped in the plastic to give them some protection and rigidity while being shipped, handled, stocked, purchased and brought to jobsite. it was NOT necessary to remove it NOR is performance affected by leaving it.&nbsp; so if anyone is curious, it doesnt matter if you leave it or take it off.&nbsp; however, i found out what he meant when moving larger pieces into the van. having to contort a few, i could see them snapping without it.&nbsp; i left it on.</em>

 

[my_vantasy]

I, too, love the name. I had "In through the Out Door" on 8-track!!

 

[cygvan]

thanks...i was going to name her scarlett but i was afraid to offend my girlfriend scarlett johansson....<img src="/images/boards/smilies/love.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"><br><br><br>zep will always be my #1 band....a few others are tied at #2...and after that it fluctuates...<br><br>in through the out door is a great album and i love the fact that the LP comes in a few different versions.<br><br>JPJ really shines on that album...carouselambra is awesome and never gets notice..<br><br>hot dog is my least favorite zep tune...

 

[cygvan]

ok as for the rest of the wall sandwich...<br><br>since the Pactive was only 1/2" i was left with a small airspace between the 1/4" plywood and the stud surface...i applied Reflectix, spanning front to back, over the studs. i used double sided carpet tape to hold it up.&nbsp; Reflectix claims to have a range of R value from 3.7 to 21 but it is entirely dependent upon airspace on both sides and how its installed. it does however diminish direct transfer of temperature.<br><br>so basically i have a small airspace on one side of it of about 1/2" by attaching it to the studs and pulling it tight across.<br><br>i attached the 1/4" plywood over the Reflectix and fastened with trim head self tapper screws. i had to be careful in laying out where the screws went and where i made the joints. the studs have oval shaped cutouts and the edges are radiused. i didnt want to "miss" and get the screw in a hole and i didnt want to get to close to an edge because the screw would just skip off the radius. the trim head screws (i think thats what they are called) have an extra ring around the circumference of the head and i thought this would help prevent a big bump when i glued the carpet over the plywood (it did, can barely tell theres a screw there).<br><br>here are a few photos of the Reflectix followed by some photos of the driver side wall...<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: driver side wall is on the left and a portion of the bulkhead behind the drivers seat can be seen as well (i dont have many photos of that going up)<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: you can see the bulk of the driver side wall covered with plywood.&nbsp; also in the photo is a first attempt at a battery box and cubby which i later scrapped and did something different so ... ignore that lol.<br><br>

 

[daminc]

nice van.... like the name a lot too<br><br>

 

[cygvan]

in my haste to get things done...i wrapped the rear pillars or door frames with 3/8" plywood. in restrospect, i should have obtained the stock trim pieces which would have been fine.&nbsp; but rather, i did this...<br><br>i applied 2x2 strips on the pillar and attached 3/8" plywood, shaped to the compound curves and angles.&nbsp; i moved as much of the wiring upwards so i could get at it (tailights etc) and left a gap (as seen as the rectangular hole) large enough for my hand to get in there and manipulate the connectors if i had to.<br><br>there is some Pactiv in there and some fiberglass insulation too.&nbsp; i used fiberglass sparingly because i dont want fibers flying out over time...i purchased the stuff thats encapsulated in plastic too...i used it only on the pillars and the wheelwell housings which are basically sealed.<br><br>this will eventually be covered with carpet (still aint done though the wall is lol)...<br><br>i was eager to finish this on both sides because the bed platform needed to go in as i was sick of sleeping on the floor in a sleeping bag...yep i did it<br><br>i had been vandwelling by now since september or october? it was pretty close to november at this time...<br><br>here are two pics of the pillar..you can also see the start of the wheelwell framing which also had to be done before the bed platform...<br><br> <br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: some close up detail.&nbsp; thank the universe for Simpson Strong Ties....lol they made this and other things very strong...compound curves and angles...<img src="/images/boards/smilies/eek.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"><img src="/images/boards/smilies/eek.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">...the curved cutout was for a stud that was postitioned at a 45 degree angle which also protruded furthere than the other studs so i went around it...you can see the Reflectix there.&nbsp; carpet has been glued over it since.

 

[cygvan]

thanks for the comments so far&nbsp; <img src="/images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">

 

[cygvan]

as for the wheelwells...<br><br>i framed them in 2x2 and covered with 3/4" plywood. i used more of the Simpson Strong Tie brackets. as mentioned previously, i insulated the space with plastic encapsulated fiberglass insulation. they were already covered with the Fatmat.<br><br>they are very sturdy and made a really nice base/attachment point for the bedframe and cabinet...<br><br>here is a photo of the initial framing...<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: ignore the freestanding cubby...it was transmogrified lol<br><br>i scoured for more pics of the bed platform going in but this was all i could find...it consists of 2x3 framing and 3/4" plywood. covered with carpeting. two boat hatches i got from a friend were installed on either end. they provide access to two small storage areas where i can keep some things out of the way that i dont often need. the spaces were covered with carpet.<br><br>the 2x3 framing was a bit excessive. i could have simply relied on plywood uprights and more brackets but it worked out well. i have TONS of storage underneath.&nbsp; i have made several changes over time. i dont think i will be storing the porta potty there anymore. i value storage space more.&nbsp; i designed a box for the porta potti that i will keep elsewhere. padded top for my feet like a small ottoman.<br><br>here are some photos...<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: driver side. the carpeting on the floor and support has been removed. another flooring option will be applied.&nbsp; i have since removed the 2x3 frame support you see next to the small heater and installed a piece of 3/4" plywood in its place...plenty strong with a smaller profile, easier for storage. no pics of that yet.<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: passenger side showing porta potty storage. i have since decided to use this space for storage...perhaps for my 10 gallon fresh water tank.<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: driver side. top of the bed platform showing boat hatch.<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: passenger side. top of the bed platform showing boat hatch.<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: this is the only pic i have of the rear of the bed platform as it was...eventually i will take a current pic.&nbsp; you can see the foam mattress i made...more on that later.&nbsp; the 2x3 frame looks bowed in the photo but its straight. i think the camera lens may have distorted it. the bed platform is overbuilt and could probably support over a ton.<br><br>where the floor meets the rear of the van i will install diamond plate. a piece with a bullnose radius to cover the edge of the flooring and insulation that will tie in nicely with the ribs on the floor. its not a priority but it will look much nicer.<br><br>what is not seen in this photo as i have yet to photograph it is a box that runs from left to right. it floats above the strorage space you see here and is attached the the bed platform.<br><br>it is high enough (8" ??)to be higher than the mattress and bedding and provides a nice armrest. its slightly higher than the bottom of the windows, and has three compartments.<br><br>a large one on the driver side with a hinged top accessible from the living space side.<br><br>a small middle one that is open to all sides and provides access to the door latch mechanism.<br><br>a smaller one the passenger side that also has hinged top providing access from the living space. its carpeted inside. has two 12v outlets and a switch (universe only knows why i put the switch there but its cool). the outside tops will be upholstered and padded. the side facing the rear doors will be matching diamond plate.<br><br>it provide great storage...ill post a pic soon

 

[cygvan]

the next thing (i think) was to build a battery box and electronics cabinet...<br><br>below you can see the first attempt in the background....bleh...it was vey strong but...i thought i could avoid the curves of the wall by building that thing...nope...no chance<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: big useless box<br><br>so..i broke it down (screws, cleats and Simpson Strong Ties made it easy) and built a heavy duty cabinet against the bulkhead and wall on drivers side...<br><br>the bulkhead is incredibly well built (more on it later) and strong...this cabinet will support tons of weight and it aint going anywhere..<br><br>photos below...<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: in order to better deal with the curves, i decided to build the bottom section first. this section houses the battery currently a single Deka Solar 4D 200AH). you can see the door of the bulkhead. the door leads to the cab and is medieval in bulk lol.<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: closer look at the battery box section. the bolt you see (needs to be trimmed and handwheel installed) holds down the bottom 2x2 which holds the battery in place. if i need to get to the battery to clean or check connections, i pull up the bolt, remove the section of 2x2 and slide the battery out (its heavy at 120 lbs and this makes it very easy).&nbsp; the frame will be carpeted and a nice ventilated door will be added. there are other vent holes although they are mostly uneccessary with this type battery and the existing airspace provided by the cabinet. the lower space is for an eventual second battery.<br><br>here is what the top half of the cabinet started out like.&nbsp; devices installed for testing and layout. the subsequent picture is current.<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: initial layout of upper tech cabinet.<br><br> <br><br>ABOVE: after a few layout changes, this is what it currently looks like. pictured are:<br><br>1) Square D two position 30 amp breaker box with single 15 amp breaker<br>2) Iota DLS-45IQ4 battery charger<br>3) Steel 1500 Joule outlet strip with indicators<br>4) outlet<br>5) Blue Sea 5026 12 position fused dc distribution block<br>6) my PC (Intel i5 mini-itx z77 chipset with AMD 7850 video card)<br><br>i need to do a tad more wire organization and install a door (like i mentioned on the bottom battery cabinet). the door will have two computer fans installed to exhast any built up heat. the fantastic fan is nearby to keep the air moving from that point as well.<br><br>more on tech later...<br><br>

 

[Ballenxj]

Nice build so far. With the title of "Red Zeppelin" I just had to take a peek. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>3/4 inch plywood siding seems like a bit of overkill, but I'm sure it will be sturdy. <br>-Bruce