My build : Red Zeppelin

jaguarbird11 · Jul 28, 2013

really, really, really nice!  makes me want a van! what kind of gas mileage are you getting?

cygvan · Jul 28, 2013

a view of some wiring runs... in a picture in the previous post, if you notice, is a white piece of moulding at the top of the ceiling. this is pvc moulding, commonly used outdoors to make fancy soffits and such. its great material to work with because it wont split...a big benefit since i needed something with a small profile.  this piece runs from front to back and is installed on the lip of the wall beam (dunno what else to call it) and does two things, it helps to hold up the luan ceiling (which will be shown in a later post) and provides an attachment point for all sorts of things like wire conduit and their clips, brackets to hold cabinets in place etc. great material to work with. oh and it also wont rot. so below are a few pics of wiring. runs from the previously depicted tech cabinet across the desk and to the galley cabinet (both of which i will show in another post...theres always another post isnt there? lol)

ABOVE: making the runs and tying it all down.

ABOVE: grey liquid tite used for all AC runs, black corrugated for vehicle 12v wiring (vehicle 12v wiring is totally independent of any wiring that i did). white wires are 12v 12g wires (black and red in a white housing from West Marine) that supply the fridge which goes in the space shown in the next photo and the other makes its way to the back of the van. i used sections of the liquid tite as strain/clip relief.

ABOVE: the white 12v wiring is making its way to the back of the van and the other is for the fridge. the other grey liquid tite runs are the home run from the back of the van (Marinco 30amp twist lock inlet) which goes to the Square D breaker box, the run then makes its way here from the outlet in the tech cabinet, across the wiring in the first pic to this cabinet. it then goes to the single outlet shown for the microwave in the next photo.

ABOVE: microwave outlet and shelf the AC run terminates in a convenience outlet under the desk which i dont think i will need but it felt prudent to install. photo below.

ABOVE: convenience outlet.

cygvan · Jul 28, 2013

thanks for reading.  i used 3/4" plywood on the floor, bulkhead, bed platform and cabinets. the walls are 1/4" plywood, ceiling is 1/4" luan and some plywood (i used both)...the rear pillar is 3/8" plywood because the 1/4" cracked and split on me. i am getting 18mpg highway and maybe 12 around town. i only check when i make a long trip really.  on a few trips to lake bomoseen in vermont i got 17 and change to just over 18 on various trips...to cape may i got like 17 something... very happy with that for what it is...my driving style on the highway is smooth...im a little leadfooted around town i recently had a lingering problem fixed with an misfire/rough idle/code puking frustrating mother of all .... my mechanic found that one of the o2 sensor wiring harness was being abraded by a suspension component...i think control arm...and it was shorting out giving me intermittent misfires and rough idle at idle/low speed...id give it gas and it would disappear and run great. now that its fixed, it runs even better and i expect better mileage though i havent checked yet...if i had to guess...my highway mileage will stay the same and around town will improve.. i do have an obd2 to usb cable device that i attach to my laptop...the software monitors everything...its how i got my numbers for long trips...i dont bother hooking it up for around town. its cool software...very much like the scanguage II product but with a much more robust interface and you can save all data or specific trip data.

cygvan · Jul 28, 2013

ok next up on the project o rama carousel was my galley cabinet. really just a cabinet for the micorwave and fridge. the first two pics are the original...my Avanti fridge died so i decided to get a better model and eventually wound up going larger as well. this forced me to reconfigure my cabinetry...so i had to cut those awful curves and notches twice...four different ones as each side piece of the cabinet was different of course ... because the Express van TAPERS towards the back as well as curves top to bottom...i got through it though. man i wish i had a workshop and more tools.. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/bawl.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">

the microwave is a 700 watt (1000 watt usage) cheapo from Wal-Mart. Rival is the brand. it works well, has a carousel and a very small footprint. using this off an inverter rated at 1250 should be no problem. the fridge (old one) was an Avanti superconductor 12v/120v model. 1.7 cubic foot. it was cheap, around $200 and i have to say for the 18 months i had it, worked very well. it kept things reasonably cold even when it was hot outside. i only ran it on 12v. it does not switch over automatically though so you have to unplug 12v and plug 120v.  it has a fan inside to move air, two fans inside the housing but no compressor. i think its called a pelltier plate or something.  i was happy with it until it stopped working on 12v completely. no light, no fan, no cooling. i tried it on 120v and got light and fan but no cooling. i thought i avoided the big expense of a good 12v fridge but...NOPE. its destined for the recycle bin. it turned out to be too small anyway so after much research...and many bags of &$&@)))$#@@ ice....i chose a truckfridge 130. 12v only.  its huge in a good way, uses a danfoss compressor, virtually silent, has a freezer compartment...and works damn well...during the heat wave here, my freezer was -9 degrees F and the fridge was 34F.  it averages 24 watts as advertised and max of 60 watts. that puts it in the range of 2 - 5 amps per hour...closer to 2 on average as the compressor kicking on is what takes it to 5 but only occasionally. below is a pic of new cabinet and fridge...

ABOVE: new cabinet with Truckfridge 130. still need to do some trim and finish work on the cabinet.  the fridge actually has lots of space behind it to circulate air. the cabinet has gaps built in for the conduit runs so airflow is not an issue. i could always cut a hole with a hole saw for more airflow, and even install a computer fan, but so far so good. i discussed it with a Truckfridge tech and he said i had more than enough open space after discussing dimensions. an important consideration when building these things into a cabinet.

Ballenxj · Jul 28, 2013

Useful info on the TruckFridge 130, Thanks. I'll have to research that one. -Bruce

cygvan · Jul 29, 2013

and now for my desk...a must have for me... my desk simply spans the space between the tech/battery cabinet and the fridge cabinet. its about 3' wide and 24" deep. completely open underneath though it currently has sterilite containers and other stuff. above is a header panel that hides the wiring runs and provides an attachment point for gadgets and readouts...currently i just have a indoor/outdoor thermometer that i use to check the fridge temps and a CO detector.  eventually ill have a weather station, the CO detector, battery meter (i currently just us a multimeter), remote for an inverter (i have a tripplite 1250 that i havent used and will replace with something that has a different shape/dimension), remote panel for eventual mppt solar charge controller and some switches. the bottom of the panel will have some 12v led downlites. havent installed the bottom yet. under that is a mounting panel that spans the length of the desk as well. to that i have an Asus 24" LED LCD monitor attached to a swivel mount (mount is terrible though...need to find better one). the desktop is comprised of a 24" x 36" piece of laminated furniture lumber...its nothing special its just a wide piece made up of glued up narrower pieces.  i back cut this to 23" on a 45 degree angle.  on top of that i placed a piece of corian. back cutting the wood makes for a simple and comfortable edge so i didnt have to bother with a piece of bullnose or building up the corian. corian is expensive and hard to find in large pieces.  i got lucky. i went to a counter top maker buried in an industrial area and asked if they had any scrap...initially the guy laughed at me and said that due to the nature of the material, they use all scraps to build up pieces and edges and make attachments points that are out of view... so i got to talking to him and telling him what i was doing and he showed me a pile of pieces that were a mistake...he hadnt gotten around to repurposing them yet... i was shocked to see 4 pieces of the perfect color (its either Night Sky or Anthracite)...two seemingly wide enough for my desk...and two about the width of a backsplash and about 4' long...so i asked him about it...i said ill give you $60 cash for all of it right now... and he agreed, he even cut one piece to the length i needed, put a gentle radius on the front edge, top and bottom, polished and cleaned it up...i gave him $80 i was so happy. so thats how i got a corian desktop...when i made the changes to the cabinet i had to cut an 1 1/2" off to its current 36" width but it was easy peasey with a 40t table saw blade....neat material and i have extra for an eventual sink top. pics below...

cygvan · Jul 29, 2013

ballenxj...its great... my only complaint and its minor and easy to mod.. the front panel is kinda cheesy...its not metal or anything...and prone to scratches... i needed to reverse the door. very easy. when i removed the latch (which is really a great feature), two holes were left behind. the material reminds me of masonite. i called and spoke to a tech (btw, they are very helpful and responsive, i called a few times before buying) and he said that typically, truckers either ignore it or they put two tiny black woodscrews in the holes...which is what holds the latch to begin with. he also said that the panel is removable and replaceable with a different material.. ill hunt around for a piece of aluminum or stainless steel when i get around to it. oh, i paid 699 shipped to my door...it was huge and double boxed...i helped the fedex guy unload it out of pity lol

cygvan · Jul 29, 2013

thanks for reading everyone. i know the posts are long. but i think its a good read with some good info. at least i hope it is.

cygvan · Jul 29, 2013

a word about insulation performance. below is a pic showing temp inside and outside the van...it was november 2nd at around 10 pm according to the pic data. not particularly cold to me...im hearty and have plenty of insulation myself <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> but as you can see...the work i had done to this point resulted in excess of a 20 degree temp change. i know for sure the doors were not insulated...cuz they still arent...and i dont think i had all of the ceiling done yet...not sure. the thermometer was located on bare uninsulated metal in a cold spot as well...so i think it was even warmer than 62.9F. i didnt have a heat source running either... so all in all, its worth the effort. i barely need to run heat though i have a small electric and a mr buddy propane heater if needed. very comfortable in winter. in fact, other than about 60 days in summer...its a joy... finishing the insulation in the doors and buttoning up some gaps with weatherstripping will really top it off...it might even help the a/c in the summer (more on that thing later). heres a pic...

i almost forgot to mention...regardless of the conditions outside...i have yet to see any condensation on windows or any of the remaining exposed metal....everything is nice and dry...even during the summer heat waves, either the fan or the LG seem to take care of a good part of it...very comfy.

cygvan · Jul 29, 2013

ceiling, fantastic fan, fantastic fan endless breeze, and LG portable a/c....oh my <img src="/images/boards/smilies/crazy.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> ceiling sandwich is Fatmat, 1/2" Pactiv EPS, Reflectix and either 1/4" Luan or plywood...

ABOVE: ceiling underway, showing Reflectix layer in foreground and Pactiv EPS in background... i dont have a pic of the Fatmat being installed.

ABOVE: another look at ceiling showing Luan...eventually the luan will be covered with a textured vinyl material, similar to automotive vinyl. ive already made some shades with the material which i will show in a post about the windows.

ABOVE: the rest of the ceiling showing where i switched to plywood rather than Luan. i dont recall why. probably because Depot or Lowes were out.  in view is the famous and seemingly ubiquitous fantastic fan. i have the model with the thermostat...which is mainly useless...RBT5000 ??? its as awesome as you hear. also in view is their endless breeze fan which i mounted to the bulkhead with two small zero clearance door hinges...i just swing it away from the wall to circulate air around...i can easily remove the hinge pins and put it anywhere i want. i left the legs on, i swivel them out so the fan wont blow itself back against the wall....works great. you can also get a better view of the bulkhead and the door. that door is impenetrable...way overkill...but it did allow for lots of insulation...which i guess worked out for the best because the cab is like its own microwave...

ABOVE: another view of the endless breeze fan. legs are off in this pic. i put them back on as described above.

ABOVE: you can see the endless breeze with its legs back on. i have the door propped open with paper towels and secured with a bungee out of frame.  i dont have a solution to secure the door in a partially open fashion...working on it.  you can also see my shade and the LG portable a/c. more on the LG and the shade next post

VanFan · Jul 29, 2013

Yes, please!  I am very interested in your experience with the portable a/c. Vickie

Ziggy Moon · Jul 29, 2013

@ cygvan - I really appreciate you sharing your build. It obviously has been a lot of work, and it looks great. I'm hoping to one day get mine looking a lot better than it does now. I've been taking my time on the exterior (prepping for paint), 'still'. I do like the color of the Red Zeppelin..... no, I have thoughts of another color, or color pattern (may start a thread of my idea on color scheme). I do have a question for you gygvan. Where did you get the grey carpet/fabric you used on your interior... and if you don't mind, do you remember how much it cost, and for how much material? I like it, and it sort of goes with the exterior colors I had in mind for my van (although, it would seem to go with any color) - hum, do they have multiply colors available (hoping you bought it at someplace like, Lowes, HD, etc.). Anyway, greatt thread, and very nice work. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">

cygvan · Jul 29, 2013

@ vickie...coming soon...probably later tonight. @zig... thank you for the kind words...more to come the carpet: its called Beaulieau Perfection Grey and i got it at Home Depot.  its on their 12' rolls and sold by the linear foot..thought the website prices it by the square yard (currently 3.69).  i thought i saw a reference to it being on a 6' wide rolltoo but i couldnt find that...i think i bought a 10' piece...so it was like 10'x12'...and i used about 80% of it so far?? it was cheap and it has held up very well...its on the walls, the cab side of the bulklhead, the bed platform...i still have to put up more as i have unfinished walls...its Olefin...and it has a backing compatible with it being glued down...its pretty thin so its easy to shape around things. i wont be using it for the floor though...because im a big guy and the weight from the wheels of my desk chair would chew it up for sure and i hate those floor pad things. i glued it down with 3m spray 77 by spraying the carpet back as well as the surface it was to be adhered to, waited like a minute, then applied. i used my plastic speed square to smooth it out and force it into corners...lol it worked well. very strong bond so ya gotta line it up...it doesnt respond well to being pulled back up to repositioning...it stretches and youll see a blem. i learned this the hard way..in one of the pics under the desk you can see where i fell a little short of the corner... i dont recall what i paid for it buts its really cheap...they do have other colors...blue, brown etc.. <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Beaulieu...rpet-T480-4888-1200-LX/100361872#.UfbFa21cWts" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.homedepot.com/p/Beaulieu...rpet-T480-4888-1200-LX/100361872#.UfbFa21cWts</a> not good for floor in my opinion and it seems to be reflected in the negative reviews but its damn good for everything else.

Ziggy Moon · Jul 29, 2013

Thank You, cygvan!

Patrick46 · Jul 29, 2013

Nice build!! Love the Corian countertops!

cygvan · Jul 29, 2013

thanks...i still pinch myself haha

cygvan · Jul 30, 2013

ok some info on the LG portable air conditioner. it is model # LP0711WNRY2... the label plate says 115v 7.6A 820 watts and rated for 7000 BTU...(curiously, 115v x 7.6A = 874 watts).   when the compressor kicks on...i do not see a big surge..my killawatt remained less than the 7.6A..even during a heatwave...so im guessing it has a hard start capacitor. it has a remote control and adjustable vent fins to move air up or down and left and right. its wheeled. it has three modes...cool, fan and dehumidify. as well as two fans speeds and a shut off timer. temp adjustment goes from 60 to 95 and you can select F or C. it also has a drain plug to which you can attach a hose but the unit is also self-drying in that any water collected in the cool cycle is occasionally contacted by a fan which atomizes it (you can hear it) allowing it to evaporate. ive never had to do anything with emptying water, regardless of humidity. i have never used the de-humidify feature either. i would expect to need to empty water or use a hose during this mode, like any de-humidifier. as for performance....well...it works..its not a effective as one would think, placing a 7000 btu air conditioner in such a small space... youd think it would be a meat locker...nope...but anything below 90 it works fine...at 95, it will work but the compressor kicks off frequently as that is its thermal overload (im guessing 95 ambient equates to something higher internally)...in doing this, it struggles to get the temps down.  it should be noted that the side doors and rear doors are not insulated yet and the van is not hermetically sealed...so there is some air exchange. it is a single hose unit...ive read that double hose units are better but i dont think that is an issue here.  it easily moves the air in the van and exhausts it out the hose quite efficiently... the issue is the hose itself... it is 6" in diameter, connects to the back of the unit with a simple collar and is constructed of the same cheap vinyl dryer hose everyone is familiar with... this is its efficiency downfall...the hose itself gets to be over 120 degrees...i measured it...this actually radiates alot of the heat back into the space.. i have the hose connected to the fantastic fans screen ring...using a round piece of 1/2" Pactiv insulation from Lowes...looks like a big donut...i usually leave the fantastic fan off as it will rotate itself when the ac is exhausting...occasionally ill turn the fan on to setting 1 to help pull the air out.. so...a 5000 window ac would work much better...however, you gotta either be a ducting guru or cut a huge hole in van... this is the second summer with this set up and i have devised a way to eliminate the problem of the hose radiating heat back into the van...i havent done it yet but will eventually get to it... in the passenger side bulkhead i am going to cut a hole to house a 6" pvc coupler (kind of fitting that puts two pipes together inline).  should be easy as the bulkhead has a removable panel as ive not yet carpeted it... to this coupler, i will insert the collar that connects the hose to the ac unit. the collar is removable from the provided hose so no issue there.  the clearance given with the coupler and collar will keep the back of the ac far enough away from the bulkhead to allow proper airflow (the air intakes are in the back and left side and their are 4 removable filters). what this now does is removes the hose equation from the living space... on the other side of the bulkhead, i will use a 6" to 4" reducer..it will pop out close enough to the floor (the exhaust is toward the bottom middle of the ac unit) to allow an immediate elbow or even a 45 to help airflow...and i will run the 4" exhaust up the back of the passenger seat, across the headliner and exiting near the top of the passenger window...i already have autoventshades installed so i can leave the windows cracked...i can even add the included window nozzle....if some heat accumulates in the cab its ok..bulkhead is well insulated and i can always help it with positive air pressure with a 12v fan to ensure the air finds its way out the window... the exhaust fans of the ac are powerful enough to move the air even though ive reduced it form 6" to 4" and will have two bends... i wont need to glue any of this so when i put the ac unit into storage, the pipes go with it and the hole in the bulkhead is covered with a boat hatch  <img src="/images/boards/smilies/cool.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> ok so in summary...the unit works well given my arrangement and its well made. its not too loud. for a small space like a van, the hose is its biggest inefficiency. in a trailer or rv or an apartment (they provide a window kit) the hose becomes irrelevant and it should work really nice...at 7.6 amps its not much more than a small 5000 btu window unit. it is however, rather large...it takes up a good chunk of space, especially considering the monster hose sticking out the back...since you need to account for the back of the unit and the left side, placement and position are key. would i recommend it? reservedly, yes. you need to be able to make it work in your van install...other vehicles it would be less cumbersome. if you can modify how it exhausts in a manner similar to what i described for my install, you will be comfy. it was expensive at $350 at depot. a roof air unit would have been a much better option for me but i did not want to spend the money on that plus lose the 14x14 hole to it...i love my fantastic fan too much... a second 14x14 hole was out of the question...and i was not sticking a window ac unit out the windows or cutting a hole for it. so thanks for reading my long post...hope it helps.

cygvan · Jul 30, 2013

windows and shades... ill try to adjust my stream of consciousness style of writing and keep this short. as you can see in the first posts pictures, my van has the 60/40 side windows...FIXED and windows in the rear doors, also FIXED. i desperately want to change them to swing outs...having loads of trouble finding what i need for that, but thats for another post. so...the factory fixed windows are already tinted from GM but i applied limo tint...its like full blackout. you can barely see into the interior even at night and with my monitor on...but a glow is there...any other time of day you see nada.  this also makes it a little hard to see out but im ok with that because the sun does not beat down on them and heat up the living space...a huge plus. i still wanted a light barrier...so after playing with the Pactiv and Reflectix...i decided that i was comfortable enough in winter to not need insulation on the windows (inside the door, yes eventually). so recently i purchased some black vinyl from a fabric store, cut it out to the shape of each window, two pieces each, glued them together back to back (3m spray 77) and then glued rare earth magnets around the perimeter. i used small magnets, about 1/4" diameter and 1/8" thick...spacing them a few inches apart. they are way strong enough to hold up the heavy vinyl...i used Goop to glue them but its not strong enough to keep the magnets adhered to the vinyl so i will either use a different adhesive or somehow sew them into the vinyl. when i dont want them up, i just give them a tug and stow them, or fold in half and stick the bottom to the top for a partial shade. works great. the blaring sun does not affect any of it due to the tint. so far the 60/40 windows are done as they were the easiest. now that i know i need to secure the magnets to the vinyl better, ill do the rear windows next and will take photos of it in progress...

wrcsixeight · Jul 30, 2013

Nice looking build out. I had issues with great stuff foam eating through the paint and primer, and in combination with humidity, eating through the steel.  I truly wish I never even heard of the product.  I'd have a lot more steel around my windshield.  I hope it does not eat out your walls from the inside out.  Only time will tell. ``````` The best way to increase the efficiency of the TruckFridge is to make sure the condenser fan is not recycling preheated air.  The computer fans which come on the TF's are smaller 92mm than the 120mm condenser and only utilizing a portion of it. I have a 1.8 cubic foot Vitrifrigo which came with a 120mm fan which covers the whole condenser.  I replaced this fan with a quieter one with a higher static pressure rating, and use it to push air through the condenser, rather than pull it through.  Pushing is quieter.  I also made it so it pulls air from the floor below pushes it once through the condenser,across the compressor and controller and out a vent with no chance of being recycled.  In combination with extra insulation mine draws about 0.80 amps per hour in 80 degree ambient temps. The techs will tell you what you want to hear.  Many guys over on some Vanagon forums are claiming the techs told them their limited ventilation was more than enough, but then complain how often the fridge runs and how much battery power it consumes and blame the fridge design, where it is the design of the cabinet it is housed within which is to blame.  Fridges extract heat from the box. this must be released through the condenser, and the better this can be accomplished the more performance for less battery consumed.  This is the single best way to increase the efficiency of any compressor fridge. Bathe the condenser in the coolest possible ambient air, not air it itself has warmed. The Danfoss compressor controller has a power port which runs the condenser fan.  This can accept a fan of up to 1 amp, or multiple fans if they are less than 1 amp combined.  The power saved by exhausting the compressor/condenser heat will more than make up for any electricity it itself consumes and extend the life of the whole fridge. I also use a 0.03amp ~6 cfm 40 mm fan in the freezer compartment.  While this does not make the fridge use less, it keeps a much more even internal temperature and allows me to use a setting of 2.5 or less out of 7 to retain sub 37.5 interior temps, and things start freezing about 3 of 7.  Without the small internal fan, I have to dial the fridge close to 4, and parts of the floor are at 32f and parts in the back of the box are 44f, measured with my IR thermometer.  I let this fan run 24/7. When I have a solar surplus it allows me to crank up the fridge to 4 and bring everything to near freezing, then in the evening I dial it back to 2.5 or less and the fridge cycles much less for the first several hours, reducing battery consumption overnight.  So the internal fan probably does save electricity when used like this as it allows faster cooling of the contents.

cygvan · Jul 30, 2013

thats good info..i was curious about what alternate size fan the fridge could handle amp wize...i have a couple of brand new nexus 120mm fans laying around i got for this very reason. truckfridge simply zip tied the fan to the coil cage...easy to attach a different one.  i do like the fact that there are easy to get to electrical ports on the fridge...makes it easy to noodle around. a fan inside to draw more cold air from the freezer box or move it around would be great...anything special about the fan you put in there?  or would one of those fridge circulator fans you see at camping world suffice? as for the volume and temp of the airspace the coils have access to, youre spot on...i knew my build would have the fridge in a pretty tight enclosure, bottom and sides...but i was able to build it in a way that left about 7" of space behind it...and the top rear half is open to the ceiling...just over a foot. i dont think air is circulating as much as i would like back there but it doesnt appear to be stiffling the coils. the back of the cabinet has cutouts for wiring runs so its not sealed off. but yeah it might take too long to get the air to move as it is. i put my temp probe back there and it was only a few degree warmer than rest of living space...i dont feel like the tech at truckfridge was blowing smoke or anything but i often feel as you do anyway...its funny, sometimes you have to ask questions in a way to avoid people telling you what you want to hear...gotta temper it with personal experience. i have the temp selector on 5 and during the heatwave we had here i was getting -9F in freezer and mid 30's F in fridge...it would be nice to have it hover around 3 so youve got me thinking ill do the mods anyway. im going to install the 120 on the coil becuase i think its a great idea and you confirmed that for me. and i think i will go with my original gut and treat the back of the cabinet like a computer case..a fan to draw and a fan to expel.... it would be nice if both fans could be wired to the fan port on the fridge... id have to check to see if all three would be less than 1 amp. regarding the great stuff...ive never seen it eat paint or primer before but i also wasnt looking.  i wonder if the foam simply trapped moisture around your windshield? rather than the chemicals themselves eating it? i sure hope it doesnt eat my van <img src="/images/boards/smilies/eek.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">  ... there are a few sections i still have access to and im going to check...thanks for the warning

My build : Red Zeppelin

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