Mr Buddy heater - 200 sq ft

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grandpacamper

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Purchased myself a 'Mr Buddy' heater (200 sq ft) I have bottled propane that will feed it.  I drilled a (1 1/2") hole on the van's passenger side rear (under back lights) made a PVC pass through for the line.  Everything fits, I haven't fired it up but I remember in our old house we had a room in our basement.  There was a roughed in fireplace with a stubbed up  natural gas line.  I purchased a radiant heater with 4 ceramic tiles, you could only run 2 tiles, anymore would drive you out of the room (16 x24).  The walls were concrete the ceiling was sheetrock, joists & sub flooring/carpet, I did keep the one window open about 2 inches on the coldest days.  I called the gas company gave them my details & concerns about venting.  No need the radiant heater was safe even in bedrooms.  This new one runs on the same principal with only one tile.  The information says it's safe to use indoors, (bottle must be outside).  I plan to keep my cab windows slightly open for ventilation - SHOULD I BE CONCERNED ABOUT ASPHYXIATION?  I've seen other posts with some worry, or am I over thinking the issue?  AGAIN!
 
Crack a window or vent and enjoy being warm.
 
you should be fine but I would still get a CO alarm and a propane alarm. just to be on the safe side. highdesertranger
 
Thanks for the help, I guess $9 a year is cheap enough to spend to be safe. Amazon has one for $46. Both CO2 & Explosive gas. Said they should be replaced every 5 years.
 
+1 to above precautions as well as too much output for long periods of use, should not be sleeping with it on anyway IMO.

Use as needed to warm up first thing and during the day, but use clothing & bedding for overnight IMO.
 
grandpacamper said:
Thanks for the help, I guess $9 a year is cheap enough to spend to be safe.  Amazon has one for $46.  Both CO2 & Explosive gas.  Said they should be replaced every 5 years.

In a vehicle the life of the sensors will be shorter..figure 3 years as the maximum, unless its actually an RV type.

Dust, vibration, higher levels of moisture, gasses and off-gassing of plastics, and what not...the sensors eventually go bad.
 
John61CT said:
+1 to above precautions as well as too much output for long periods of use, should not be sleeping with it on anyway IMO.

Use as needed to warm up first thing and during the day, but use clothing & bedding for overnight IMO.
Thanks for the input.  Realizing that the 'Mr Heater' (sm Buddy) heater has a small chance to be hazardous to my health, I've adopted a new approach. My VanDwelling is mostly going to be limited to good weather camping. At my age the thought of waking up with snow on my sleeping bag will be avoided at all costs. I want to have the capabilities to turn it on in the early evening or mornings just to take the chill off the interior, turn it off before retiring.  Wearing long johns & extra blankets for comfortable sleep. The purchase of my heater will be for emergencies only, as with my cell phone.​
 
Just one other thing to point out here.  Filters for the Mr Buddy.

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These can be found from $8 to $12 bucks if you are using an extension hose and a BBQ Grill Tank.   The orifices are quite small and it would be difficult to clear them with a small piece of wire. (should they get plugged up)

It's been mentioned here before about cutting a hole behind the license plate and mounting a computer fan
on that hole to have a positive supply of fresh air.  Some still insist on sleeping without the heat turned on.

I'd like to see Mr Buddy set one of these units up like the "Warm Morning Stoves" which would cycle on and off through the day & night to keep an even temperature in the place.  I would think it could be done easily enough.
 
The filters are only needed if you don't buy the proper teflon-lined hoses that don't break down so much.

Using the refillable 1-lb bottles from Manchester keeps things more self-contained and portable.

Any inside-burning propane heater is IMO way too risky to keep going overnight.

Get Propex, Webasto or Espar units that burn outside for that.
 
I shut it off when going to sleep and layer up , both my clothes and sleeping bags.
(Feel the ceiling above it to judge what setting to use and how long to leave it on)

EXCEPT if the outside temps are going to be below 10*
, then crack a vent (or two).

If you follow the seasons south in winter you should be fine without it and just use it to take off a chill.
 
rvpopeye said:
EXCEPT if the outside temps are going to be below 10°, then crack a vent (or two).
Which should be done, before, lighting it up even if the plan is to run for only a short time.

I had a good friend die from CO don't play w/ lives people!
 
Just out of curiosity.
Was the CO source a buddy heater?
 
No. But the "safety features" Buddy touts are very rudimentary, no CO detection or anything, definitely should have a CO alarm as well as cracking windows.
 
I have an early Mr Buddy and I wouldn't sleep in my Van with it unless I had ventilation going.  Mine doesn't have the ODS (Oxygen Depletion Sensor) feature. 

But I understand the newer ones do. 

http://www.mrheater.com/hunting-buddy-portable-heater.html


But I'd rather err to the side of safety and sleep under a "micro-fiber" comforter.  (on a thick foam mattress)  to be insulated on both sides and stay warm.
 
Yes with proper bedding/clothes no heat needed overnight, and firing up the Buddy in the morning the space will be toasty in minutes. Just make it a rule to crack the venting beforehand.

BTW the other big disadvantage to any propane burning inside is lots of water vapor released, 1.64 pounds of water per gallon of propane used.

This really adds to condensation, long-term possibly to inside-out rusting issues.
 
In regards to the propane/water vapor problem!

It should be remembered that it takes extremely little propane to heat the van to a reasonable temperature and even less to keep it warm.

Even with the occasional cooking on the propane stove, I use mostly my butane stove inside the van and only cook outside on propane, the 20 lb tank does me for months of heating.

Any moisture created by heating is quickly dissipated by the opening and closing of the doors.

More moisture is created by my cooking inside but that is easily controlled by ventilation from my roof vent/fan operation and from opening a window to create air flow.

Interior rust is greatly over emphasized IMO!
 
Yes, just pointing out it can be an issue, e.g. fulltiming at ski areas, much better off with the units where the combustion's outside.
 
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