Mounting panels w/o Z brackets

[UptownSport]

Space between cargo racks is just over 40". Planned panel is just under 40" square.

I thought I'd install with rivet nuts, but It appears (pdf) frame has mounting holes under the panel, not accessible to be bolted down into rivet nuts.
Before reading, assumed holes went through entire frame.

Z- Brackets obv wouldn't fit between racks. Standoffs, or something more elaborate?

Am I understanding the mounting system correctly?

 

[karl]

3rd attempt to respond- screw Android!!!!

Although it likely voids the warranty, I have drilled the sides of panels and used 2" aluminum angle to mount them. In one case we wanted the panels to fit between racks, and there was an inch or so to spare, so I stacked stainless washers to fill the space and used stainless bolts long enough to reach.
They were drilled through the rack as well.

Do NOT use galvanized hardware as zinc and aluminum react- aluminum looses.

 

[UptownSport]

Thanks for all your trouble!
Sounds good. More corrosion on this thing wouldn't be noticed! LoL

First I'll make a cardboard to size, and see where their holes fall.
Stopped at JY to get some stuff and pulled ceiling liner down on one and took some shots. No Nuke reactors to drill into ... You can see their rivet nuts for roof rack.

 

[frater secessus]

A backed-out picture of the rack would help me understand the fitment challenges.

WIthout seeing anything, I'd think running a couple pieces of angle bracket between the racks and mounting the panel to the bracket would work.

 

[highdesertranger]

I never use the Z-brackets, I always use aluminum angle. I have nothing against the Z-brackets and would use them if that was the best option.

as far as hardware(bolts/screws) iron and aluminum also react. I use stainless it also reacts but at a much slower rate. highdesertranger

 

[UptownSport]

Thanks.
I guess i was asking whether the holes were through the frame or under the panel, and it's obv they're under.

It looks like standoffs or just a piece of square tube will do.
(Not full length)

 

[frater secessus]

Looks like it will work fine. I've used both bottom mounting holes and also drilled new ones. Just stay low enough on the frame that you have zero chance of hitting the cells with the drill bit or bolts/nuts.

Might have to elevate them over flush because of the crown in the roof.

 

[UptownSport]

Thanks.
Standoffs will clear the crown, and I'll need to taper some adaptor washers for rear.
(Makeshift pieces for mockup photo)
Doesn't seem to be a point in retaining the roof racks, really.
Didn't want to draw attention to myself, but there's no avoiding it.

 

[UptownSport]

It's on, and not coming off.

 

[highdesertranger]

interesting mounting. where did you get the standoffs? highdesertranger

 

[UptownSport]

They're just 1" 6061 round bar, tapped for M8 x 1.25 allthread and relieved on bottom as rivet nuts stick up a bit.

Rears needed to be milled because roof slants to side and rear, then taped while still in the vice to keep hole perpendicular.

Altogether, it's very solid. I was worried Renogy specified such small mounting hardware, and how thin roof and panel were, but it's very good when everything's tight.

 

[UptownSport]

Overall, and in detail, not best idea.
Ground off rivet nuts, cut standoffs 13/16, bolted it thru and added a second panel.







Overall, I'm not advocating anyone do this- after the $$$, work and upkeep to come, i really wish i woulda listened to Bob Wells video on DIY super ice chest.

Coulda bought lots of beer and schnitzels instead

 

[frater secessus]

Looks cool, though.

 

[UptownSport]

LoL, yes ... fridge hasn't been running for some reason ...