Mount walls straight to the metal frame?

[tommymsw]

I see so many people seem to mount wooden slats to the metal frame of the van and THEN attach their walls to those wooden slats. But if the slats are anchored by the metal frame, then could you just not attach the wall directly to the metal frame and save some space? And a step and some money and weight? Wouldn't the metal be more secure than the wood? I get making space for insulation, but the walls certainly are deep enough to start.

 

[maki2]

Reasons why.
Less need to drill into steel. Wood is a lot easier to screw into for putting up paneling and cabinets.

No need to make the paneling line up just right with the ribs.

Stronger attachment for the cabinets in just the right place without worrying about where the ribs are.

More depth for insulation and for wiring behind the paneling.

It might seem like a waste of labor to put in those pieces of wood but in the overall time frame it saves a lot of labor time as drilling lots of fasteners into narrow steel ribs is very tedious work.

 

[tommymsw]

Thanks for the reply. If those are the only reasons, I am still inclined to do it (where it would work). The metal ribs have holes in them already where I could put a bolt through and into the cabinet. The van is empty so I can run my measurements around the metal frame. I understand I may need some wood frame somewhere, I just want to make sure there are no other reasons that I should not do that. I see people use bolts through the metal frame into the wood frame.

 

[Tony's Dream]

I have changed the design and layout of my van several times. As stated above, using the slats allows you to change things without drilling new holes each time. If you can anchor directly to the metal ribs without having to drill holes......go for it. Some people find it more appealing to see finished walls instead of bear metal walls. Its a personal choice.

 

[maki2]

Thanks for the reply. If those are the only reasons, I am still inclined to do it (where it would work). The metal ribs have holes in them already where I could put a bolt through and into the cabinet. The van is empty so I can run my measurements around the metal frame. I understand I may need some wood frame somewhere, I just want to make sure there are no other reasons that I should not do that. I see people use bolts through the metal frame into the wood frame.

If you can reach into that narrow gap to access those holes it should work. Of course you are likely to drop a few nuts in the process of putting in bolts

 

[tommymsw]

I have changed the design and layout of my van several times. As stated above, using the slats allows you to change things without drilling new holes each time. If you can anchor directly to the metal ribs without having to drill holes......go for it. Some people find it more appealing to see finished walls instead of bear metal walls. Its a personal choice.

Oh, I am going to have walls. I feel like the walls especially would be easy to drill straight into the metal frames. As the walls are not structural, I feel like they do not need fastening at any regular intervals. I will have to play this all as I go and it may not work design-wise, I was just curious if there was any other reason NOT to. Especially in the shower (as I need all the inches I can get) I was thinking of just attaching the shower wall straight to the metal frames.

 

[Tony's Dream]

For, me....I have no walls....just bear metal. I converted a cargo van and I feel that walls would make it feel even smaller. I also get concerned with moister collecting behind the walls and I don't see anyone using vaper barriers??

 

[BelgianPup]

I have thought about attaching walls to the metal frames, but I hit a MENTAL barrier: When you lay the panel over the metal frames, how do you drill the holes in the panel exactly over the holes in the frame???

 

[jacqueg]

For, me....I have no walls....just bear metal. I converted a cargo van and I feel that walls would make it feel even smaller. I also get concerned with moister collecting behind the walls and I don't see anyone using vaper barriers??

Me two. But we seem to be in the distinct minority!

 

[VanFan]

I have thought about attaching walls to the metal frames, but I hit a MENTAL barrier: When you lay the panel over the metal frames, how do you drill the holes in the panel exactly over the holes in the frame???

I am been binge watching build videos and saw a reference to a method involving (wait for it) lipstick. Sadly, I did not see that segment and have not yet found my way back through the rabbit maze. (I have the same concern.)

 

[dreamrunnerjt]

I am been binge watching build videos and saw a reference to a method involving (wait for it) lipstick. Sadly, I did not see that segment and have not yet found my way back through the rabbit maze. (I have the same concern.)

Maybe you could use chalk. Or a colorful clay.

 

[bullfrog !]

One of the main concerns you are not considering is adding wooden slats isolates the interior panels fasteners from the metal ribs preventing a lot of direct heat transfer.

 

[quilting22]

I am been binge watching build videos and saw a reference to a method involving (wait for it) lipstick. Sadly, I did not see that segment and have not yet found my way back through the rabbit maze. (I have the same concern.)

LOL !!! when l read lipstick....l say if it works go for it. I just bought 2023 Ram Promaster 1500 and to my surprise and delight it had some kind of chalking on metal ribs and other areas to mitigate rattle noses. Works well.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

..... When you lay the panel over the metal frames, how do you drill the holes in the panel exactly over the holes in the frame???

Dowel Pin Center Transfer Plugs, a.k.a. Blind Hole Spotters
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Dr...x=blind%20hole%20spotters,aps,116&sr=8-5&th=1

 

[maki2]

Two small tools that make the job much easier. They can be purchased on Amazon, I used them a great many times in the 15 years when I was building planes at Boeing.

You can use strap hole finders to pickup the existing holes in the metal ribs when putting up paneling.

Use cleco clamps and pliers to hold the panel in perfect alignment while drilling more holes.


Dowel pins also have their place such as transferring hole location onto a thicker object.

 

[Tony's Dream]

I see so many people seem to mount wooden slats to the metal frame of the van and THEN attach their walls to those wooden slats. But if the slats are anchored by the metal frame, then could you just not attach the wall directly to the metal frame and save some space? And a step and some money and weight? Wouldn't the metal be more secure than the wood? I get making space for insulation, but the walls certainly are deep enough to start.

I did attach my siding directly to the metal frame. Adding the slats would have allowed for eaiser mounting of the siding, cabinets, and lighting becuse its easier screwing into wood then metal.

 

[townline]

I see so many people seem to mount wooden slats to the metal frame of the van and THEN attach their walls to those wooden slats. But if the slats are anchored by the metal frame, then could you just not attach the wall directly to the metal frame and save some space? And a step and some money and weight? Wouldn't the metal be more secure than the wood? I get making space for insulation, but the walls certainly are deep enough to start.

I have a idea of slats or firring strips attached with zipties and or Rivnuts. Then attaching thin TandG with velcro. velcro would be glued and or stapled. East to removed for wiring or to change things.

 

[bullfrog !]

Velcro, glue and zip ties all deteriorate over time with heat and vibration. Rivnuts are your best bet for long term use in my opinion. If you are looking for temporary fasteners consider snaps as well since many can be applied directly to the metal ribs.

 

[maki2]

I have an idea of slats or firring strips attached with zipties and or Rivnuts. Then attaching thin TandG with velcro. velcro would be glued and or stapled. East to removed for wiring or to change things

Wood absorbs moisture and releases it. It expands, contracts, twist, bows and warps. Velcro is not the right fastener for that application. Just use small trim head, counter sink screws. It is not a big deal to remove and reinstall them if you want to do so.

But of course tongue and groove creates its own issues as the pieces interlock. So you will end up having to start removing the pieces on the wall at one end and keep going until you get to the area where you need to do the modification on the wiring. That would also mean removing any cabinets and shelves to be able to disassemble the tongue and groove walls. Basically you are creating a lot of work for yourself just to modify wiring.

The smarter way to go is to NEVER install wiring behind wall paneling but instead mount it along the wall surface inside of the cabinets. A van is not a house, quit trying to do things the way it is done in a house such as running wires inside of walls. Switch your mind set and take a more practical as well as much easier and labor saving approach.

To keep the wiring tidy and snag free but very easy to install route and modify for my build project I use open slot raceway channel. It has a snap on cover.
In the photo it shows computer cabling but regular wiring also works in it. The slots allow you to break out wires to various plugs or devices wherever you need them to go. You can of course remove some of the slots and T another piece of channel at angles to other sections of the raceway.

 

[onethoughtatatime]

In regrds to the original question yes. Standard practice with buildings with metal framing and not screw type fixings is, vhb tape and polyurethane glue.

Vhb tape can be found in thin widths. Polyurethane glue is easy to find.. In a vehicle you can get away with either.

In regrds to external cabling situaions. I've heard its the latest in architectual design too. Lots of conduits I guess.