Minivan - Portable Refrigerator - Dashboard Almost Burning Up

[livan]

I plugged in my 12V car Fridge portable compressor cooler into the rear port of my Honda Odyssey minivan and after a couple of hours on the road discovered my dashboard was heating up. As in really, really heating up, to the point where my hand felt almost burned. I turned on the A/C and the left vent was blowing hot air and the right vent was blowing cold air. A warning light came on so I pulled over to a gas station and sat for about 10 minutes. I unplugged the cooler and went on my way and the problem stopped. It still took a while for the heat to go away but the next day there wasn't any problem. Is there already a thread somewhere about this issue? I wasn't sure how to phrase the problem. Anyone have any ideas what the problem is? Is it with the unit, the settings, or something that needs to be done with my van?
BTW, this was the first time using the unit, and first time using that port.

 

[bullfrog]

It should have blown a fuse as most ciggy plugs are usually 10 amp. I would check the fuse for that plug and see if someone had replaced the fuse with a higher value one. I can’t imagine an air conditioning duct getting hot without something melting and burning up, did you smell any burnt insulation? I would check the wiring you may have had a low battery light come on if the insulation melted and a bare wire shorted to ground. Does the rear cizzy plug still work? The heat may have come from the fuse block as that is where the wire originated from and a poor connection can cause things to heat up. Do all your warning lights lamp check with the key on and the engine not running? Start looking for things that don’t work or melted or burnt insulation on the wires or melted plastic around the fuse in the fuse block. Most people end up cutting the plug off the refrigerator and wiring up a designated fused circuit directly from the battery with heavier wires and a better designed plug. Many people precool their refrigerator if it has a grid power 110 volt adaptor to avoid running the compressor as much or precool the contents. Loading up a warm refrigerator with warm bottles of water or food causes the compressor to run hard for an extended period and can cause problems till it gets things cooled down.

 

[user 423]

A warning light came on so I pulled over to a gas station and sat for about 10 minutes. I unplugged the cooler and went on my way and the problem stopped. It still took a while for the heat to go away but the next day there wasn't any problem.

Which warning light came on? You say that the next day there wasn't any problem. Does that mean you plugged the fridge into the same outlet again and everything was back to normal?

I would suggest joining a forum dedicated to Honda Odysseys to ask your questions there,too. One thing to check would be to see if the fuse block is located on the left side where the air duct heated up.

What year is your Odyssey? You may have just had a coincidental problem pop in your HVAC control system that was not caused by plugging in the fridge.

 

[livan]

It should have blown a fuse as most ciggy plugs are usually 10 amp. I would check the fuse for that plug and see if someone had replaced the fuse with a higher value one. I can’t imagine an air conditioning duct getting hot without something melting and burning up, did you smell any burnt insulation? I would check the wiring you may have had a low battery light come on if the insulation melted and a bare wire shorted to ground. Does the rear cizzy plug still work? The heat may have come from the fuse block as that is where the wire originated from and a poor connection can cause things to heat up. Do all your warning lights lamp check with the key on and the engine not running? Start looking for things that don’t work or melted or burnt insulation on the wires or melted plastic around the fuse in the fuse block. Most people end up cutting the plug off the refrigerator and wiring up a designated fused circuit directly from the battery with heavier wires and a better designed plug. Many people precool their refrigerator if it has a grid power 110 volt adaptor to avoid running the compressor as much or precool the contents. Loading up a warm refrigerator with warm bottles of water or food causes the compressor to run hard for an extended period and can cause problems till it gets things cooled down.

Thank you for this detailed information. The low battery light didn't come on. I should have taken a pic of the warning light. Looking at the owner's manual the one shape that matches the warning was the "check charging system" light. There are no warning lights of any sort now that the unit is unplugged from the car. Thank you for the suggestion of a designated fused circuit. The unit was 24-hour pre-cooled and I had a frozen ice block in it.
I will check the lines for melted/burnt/blown as you have suggested.

 

[livan]

Which warning light came on? You say that the next day there wasn't any problem. Does that mean you plugged the fridge into the same outlet again and everything was back to normal?

I would suggest joining a forum dedicated to Honda Odysseys to ask your questions there,too. One thing to check would be to see if the fuse block is located on the left side where the air duct heated up.

What year is your Odyssey? You may have just had a coincidental problem pop in your HVAC control system that was not caused by plugging in the fridge.

Looking at the owner's manual the one shape that matches the warning was the "check charging system" light. There are no warning lights of any sort now that the unit is unplugged from the vehicle. When I say the next day there wasn't a problem, I meant that the vehicle wasn't burning up with the unit fully unplugged. The Odyssey is a 2009. Good suggestion on joining an Odyssey forum. Thank you for your response.

 

[Jim D]

Check all the things mentioned above but one problem with heat production as you stated would be "Low Voltage". A Low Voltage situation will cause a heat situation to no end. A possibility that may have happened is you plugged in your refrigerator which put an extra load on the alternator which caused the belt to slip which in turn created a low voltage situation. This would cause your check engine light to come on. The next day your alternator belt gained enough traction through wear on in it to get a good grab on the alternator wheel under the load of your refer. If your alternator belt has grab ridges I'd really look at tightening the belt.

This is just a thought. Good Luck!

 

[nature lover]

The wiring on a typical cigarette lighter plug. It’s too lIshtar for this type of use. Of course, that’s my opinion and I am the worlds best expert on my own opinion I would recommend a new cigarette, lighter plug wired directly to the power source with heavier wire, and some type of fuse. These 12 V compressor fridges draw a small amount of power When running but when the compressor starts, it draws a higher amount for a time. Of course, as someone earlier said pre-cooling the unit and putting only cold things in the unit is a big help. The cigarette lighter plugs were meant to heat up an element to light a cigarette, which is a very low powered event. They are also great for your little five volt USBs, but that’s about it. Fusing is a big help, but Heavier gauge wire Is necessary to run an appliance like a fridge.

 

[Jim D]

The wiring on a typical cigarette lighter plug. It’s too lIshtar for this type of use. Of course, that’s my opinion and I am the worlds best expert on my own opinion I would recommend a new cigarette, lighter plug wired directly to the power source with heavier wire, and some type of fuse. These 12 V compressor fridges draw a small amount of power When running but when the compressor starts, it draws a higher amount for a time. Of course, as someone earlier said pre-cooling the unit and putting only cold things in the unit is a big help. The cigarette lighter plugs were meant to heat up an element to light a cigarette, which is a very low powered event. They are also great for your little five volt USBs, but that’s about it. Fusing is a big help, but Heavier gauge wire Is necessary to run an appliance like a fridge.

Wire gauge is important and will create a heat event and melting but you didn't state that any melting occurred. Your problem is one or the other so you've got it narrowed down. Usually if the wire gauge was the problem you'd find melting on that wire without the big heat event you experienced. A low voltage event will create the heat first you experienced throughout your electrical system and left unchecked it will melt your whole electrical system. You'd find most of your wiring melted but you pulled over and stopped.

Most of what I've been reading in my studies of persons living in small vehicles as you are doing is that most people run their refers through "Jackeries" and charge their Jackeries through their cigarette lighters.

Anyway, take a look at your alternator belt and make sure it is snug. Your main complaint was one side of your air was hot and one side was cold which means you had your refer running when you were running your air. Both were sucking more amps than your alternator could produce which means you were dropping your voltage on the alternator or your alternator wasn't able to spin fast enough to produce the voltage needed.

Good Luck!

 

[jonyjoe303]

sometimes there are things that are unrelated but happened at the same time. When the engine is running check the voltage to make sure the alternator is putting out at least 14.4 volts. That will at least rule out the alternator that is going out.
What the 12 volt fridge draws is insignificant for the alternator. Most 12 volt receptacle are fused at 15 amps, which is more amps then the fridge will ever need.. I used a dc wattneter to measure the amp use of my 26 liter 12 volt fridge, it maxes out at about 6 amps when the compressor starts for maybe 3 seconds then settles to less than 4 amps. 4 amps won't heat up any wires.
Another option is to plug the fridge to the front recepticle, so there is no voltage drop. The further the fridge from the battery the more the voltage drop, lower voltage will cause the fridge to use more amps. But I don't think it would be enough to heat up anything. Usually the fuses will blow before the wiring starts to heat up where they melt, as long as they are properly fused. It should be 15 amps in older cars but some newer cars they are 10 amp fuses. Some cheap cigarette plugs start melting at less than 10 amps, before the wires do.

 

[Jim D]

sometimes there are things that are unrelated but happened at the same time. When the engine is running check the voltage to make sure the alternator is putting out at least 14.4 volts. That will at least rule out the alternator that is going out.
What the 12 volt fridge draws is insignificant for the alternator. Most 12 volt receptacle are fused at 15 amps, which is more amps then the fridge will ever need.. I used a dc wattneter to measure the amp use of my 26 liter 12 volt fridge, it maxes out at about 6 amps when the compressor starts for maybe 3 seconds then settles to less than 4 amps. 4 amps won't heat up any wires.
Another option is to plug the fridge to the front recepticle, so there is no voltage drop. The further the fridge from the battery the more the voltage drop, lower voltage will cause the fridge to use more amps. But I don't think it would be enough to heat up anything. Usually the fuses will blow before the wiring starts to heat up where they melt, as long as they are properly fused. It should be 15 amps in older cars but some newer cars they are 10 amp fuses. Some cheap cigarette plugs start melting at less than 10 amps, before the wires do.

Your making the case for "Low Voltage". Yes, if the amps are high the fuses will blow but if a low voltage situation occurs the fuses will not blow and the wiring system will heat up and eventually melt. The battery will usually get very hot. Once you run into a low voltage situation you will never forget it because your mind doesn't see low voltage as an event that can create so much damage.

 

[Zerpersande]

The wiring on a typical cigarette lighter plug. It’s too lIshtar for this type of use.

I don’t know what ‘lishtar’ is but I have never liked those lighter plugs. I ordered a connector for the Eenour AC I’m going to install in my build and it seems solid. (See pic) They apparently are designed for a specific fridge? The fridge in my van is likely to get the same thing.

 

[livan]

Wire gauge is important and will create a heat event and melting but you didn't state that any melting occurred. Your problem is one or the other so you've got it narrowed down. Usually if the wire gauge was the problem you'd find melting on that wire without the big heat event you experienced. A low voltage event will create the heat first you experienced throughout your electrical system and left unchecked it will melt your whole electrical system. You'd find most of your wiring melted but you pulled over and stopped.

Most of what I've been reading in my studies of persons living in small vehicles as you are doing is that most people run their refers through "Jackeries" and charge their Jackeries through their cigarette lighters.

Anyway, take a look at your alternator belt and make sure it is snug. Your main complaint was one side of your air was hot and one side was cold which means you had your refer running when you were running your air. Both were sucking more amps than your alternator could produce which means you were dropping your voltage on the alternator or your alternator wasn't able to spin fast enough to produce the voltage needed.

Good Luck!

It's hard to check if any wiring is melted as everything is wrapped. I never smelled burned rubber but that could be because the wind was carrying the smell away. Also, the wiring would be melted from the back of the vehicle where I had it plugged in, and those wires are internal and not visible. Guess I'm going to learn how to pull the panel off.

I would prefer not to use my portable battery until after I've arrived at the boondock location.

I will check the alternator belt. But...I had the alternator replaced in August this year so it seems odd that the belt would be loose.

I turned on the A/C after the dashboard got hot, and only as an experiment of 30 seconds. But I did have my air recirculation going.

 

[livan]

sometimes there are things that are unrelated but happened at the same time. When the engine is running check the voltage to make sure the alternator is putting out at least 14.4 volts. That will at least rule out the alternator that is going out.
What the 12 volt fridge draws is insignificant for the alternator. Most 12 volt receptacle are fused at 15 amps, which is more amps then the fridge will ever need.. I used a dc wattneter to measure the amp use of my 26 liter 12 volt fridge, it maxes out at about 6 amps when the compressor starts for maybe 3 seconds then settles to less than 4 amps. 4 amps won't heat up any wires.
Another option is to plug the fridge to the front recepticle, so there is no voltage drop. The further the fridge from the battery the more the voltage drop, lower voltage will cause the fridge to use more amps. But I don't think it would be enough to heat up anything. Usually the fuses will blow before the wiring starts to heat up where they melt, as long as they are properly fused. It should be 15 amps in older cars but some newer cars they are 10 amp fuses. Some cheap cigarette plugs start melting at less than 10 amps, before the wires do.

The operator's manual indicates a 15 amp fuse. Thank you for the consideration about the voltage drop byusing the back 12 volt receptacle.

 

[nature lover]

Don’t you wish that idiot, nature lover, would proofread his postings that he dictates? it printed “Ishtar.“. what he meant to say is “too light for.” I wish that guy would get his act together.. You folks should ignore 3/4 of what that idiot says. I’ve known him for almost 70 years and I’ve never trusted him.

 

[Zerpersande]

Don’t you wish that idiot, nature lover, would proofread his postings that he dictates?

Not an idiot at all. Happens with me all the time. Also my iPad wll often display the character next to rthe one I tapped when typing at speed. Very common is for ’I’ to come out as ‘Ai’ One sees so myuch, (see there) of this that you can usually either tell it’s meaning or it isn’t that important to the overall gist of the message.

 

[abnorm]

They apparently are designed for a specific fridge?

NOPE......that's just Advertising/catchphrase.......that's a standard aftermarket Power Port......a ciggy plug......

BUT they do have a subtle LOCK.....That helps keep the connection well......CONNECTED

While pushing TWIST a 1/4 turn.........it's molded right on the face

 

[Zerpersande]

NOPE......that's just Advertising/catchphrase.......

Never heard of the brand but not surprised. I just thought ‘Repurpose!’

that's a standard aftermarket Power Port......a ciggy plug......

It may look like a ciggy plug but it has prongs. Although I may just have an unjustified preference due to life-long exposure to standard electrical plugs

BUT they do have a subtle LOCK.....That helps keep the connection well......CONNECTED

Yeah, you need to snug that plug in or you can’t lock it. I’m kind of disappointed in the lock though. It isn’t a ‘click’ sort of lock, instead it’s threaded outer sleeve that screws onto a corresponding male sleeve in the receptacle. Secure connection.

 

[abnorm]

Sorry NOPE..............Let's see what arrives.....the "screw together" description is for the Male portion of the plug.....how the wire connects/concealed within the plug.....the strain relief

It's a standard power port........In the + photo you can read the twist to lock.........PRONGS ?

 

[Zerpersande]

Sorry NOPE..............Let's see what arrives.....the "screw together" description is for the Male portion of the plug.....how the wire connects/concealed within the plug.....the strain relief

It's a standard power port........In the + photo you can read the twist to lock.........PRONGS ?

What? Hey, man, I saw them with my own eyes. Held it in my hands. Figured out how it worked. Two prongs, just like a standard electrical plug on 120V devices. Well, smaller versions. And a two-slit male connector down inside the female portion that the prongs slide into. Each segment has a male and female part.

As for ‘twist to lock’, yeah, and I considered sending it back for that reason. That’s a sleeve on the plug. You can spin it around all day long. And you have to screw that sleeve onto the male barrel inside the female portion.

And when you unscrew it? Be careful or you can unscrew the male portion inside the plug that is connected to your device‘s wire. Another reason to return it? I bought it for my AC but may use it on the fridge. Not a plug to use if you have it you unplug it often.

 

[Solarcoast]

Sorry NOPE..............Let's see what arrives.....the "screw together" description is for the Male portion of the plug.....how the wire connects/concealed within the plug.....the strain relief

It's a standard power port........In the + photo you can read the twist to lock.........PRONGS ?

It does not appear to be a standard cig lighter plug, here are the two prongs zerpersande mentions.

Notice there is no metal sleeve on the inside for a standard cig plug but there is two female slots for prongs. My guess would be they just used the same plastic housing as a standard plug, which is why the twist to lock is written on it.