Mattress ventilation?

[maki2]

Soft foam will sink between slats pretty quick.  And most foam becomes soft foam sooner than we'd like.

That's one reason I always recommend foam as firm as you can take it -- because it generally sinks/compresses, effectively becoming as soft as a softer mattress within a year or two.  And why I use a second foam mattress topper:  they're cheap and can prevent pressure spots from being quite so extreme.  If anything, you might toss out your topper if it flattens too much, before your main foam mattress gets too damaged.

Of course, you can always spend $4000 on a high-end foam or latex mattress and (perhaps) eliminate such problems. but if you don't, it's best to accommodate for ordinary wear and tear on quality mattresses which have, after all, become far cheaper than they ever were ... but may have reduced longevity because of it.

The definition of "quality" has shifted quite a bit in the market over the past 20 and even 10 years.

Really???  Well guess what I have been using a foam mattress on a slatted foundation since 2005 and never experienced the problem you are describing. But maybe the issue is the design of the slat base which has the slats spaced too far apart from each other. 

Ikea does a great job of it and sells the slatted assembly for low cost. They have a bow to them to give it some flex for more comfort. They do have several styles. The nice thing is you can adjust the length by taking out some of the slats.
This style already has a perimeter frame, easy to build into a van. It also has the thickest slats they make, good for heavier individuals.
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30278732/

This style is also good, it needs to be set onto a frame. It has medium thick slats, good for an average weight person. At only $30.00 it is a nice bargain that saves a lot of labor and processing of materials.
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00160215/#/60160217

 

[Dingfelder]

I find the first year of some foam to be fine, the first six months of low-quality foam to be fine, and you can get better results with better foam.

A lot depends on how much time you spend in bed, though. I spend almost all my time when at home in bed now that I no longer have the pace for a recliner. That's because I have scoliosis, though, and no ordinary chair will do.

I do find that constant/regular use of cheaper foams can bring them down pretty quick. But of course there are higher qualities of foam, and the quality you can get for X price level has increased dramatically in the past ... mmm 8 years(?) or so. I'm very surprised you have used foam since 2005 and never had a problem with your foam starting to sink into the slats. Sure, the space between the slats matters immensely ... I'm just surprised because the year 2005 was back when decent foam was pretty expensive and far from common.

I think the perimeter you speak of may have something to do with it, too. I have never used a frame with a foam mattress. That frame is likely to keep it more compressed, which can only be a good thing.

I can't otherwise explain our differing results, except by reference to how many hours per day I spend in bed which others might spend in a chair or on a couch.

These days i use a 3 inch foam mattress topper on my bed specifically to alleviate some of the transferred pressure onto my main mattress to make it last longer.

 

[mayamoon]

speaking of 3 inch memory foam on top of a regular mattress! I started reading this thread because I too am wondering about my plywood bed platform... to hole saw or not to hole saw? that is the question. Looks like there are some good alternatives in this thread.

My bed is in a minivan on a thin piece of plywood, with not particularly cold-er air underneath it... so I'm thinking I should be okay. But will put a few holes in and also put a zippered waterproof mattress pad over the top. I actually began researching this subject because I thought a zippered waterproof mattress pad might trap moisture inside of it... but then wondered if any moisture WOULD get inside of it. Lol.
I like that someone posted it seems to be working find for them.

BUT THEN.... I thought, hey, I put a 3 inch memory foam mattress pad over my regular bed mattress about a year ago... I haven't noticed any moisture, but then I thought... you haven't looked! So I just pulled the 3 inch memory foam back and guess what!?

There is definitely moisture on top of my mattress underneath the topper where I sleep!!! Confused ... especially in my torso/ head area, less in the leg area, as one would suspect! the bottom of the memory foam topper is not noticeably wet I will say.

But to say I'm shocked is an understatement. My mattress is actually on a platform bed, so it's just on a layer of particle board... Danish design. The wood beneath the mattress is dry.

I didn't see any mold development on top of the mattress, but I could feel slight dampness/ moisture for sure. I sprayed it lightly with a mix of 10% bleach in water to kill any mold spores that might be there.

So now I wonder just how many people with memory foam over their mattresses also have moisture on top of their mattresses?

I had a 1 inch thick memory foam pad previously and I don't believe any moisture developed under it, but can't be sure.

Interestingly, as a side note, I moved the 1 inch pad to the large dog bed in my living room next to where my computer is... and right in front of the ventless propane heater I got last year... picture a VERY big Little Buddy heater. I just bought it in December, and it does crank out the heat (I'm in an unheated house... standard for Mexico) and had had it with being cold indoors all the time in the winter. The houses tend to hold the heat. So I bought this ventless propane heater which heated the whole house... it was fabulous. However, it definitely raised the humidity, and I used it a lot, as in every night.

So fast forward to a few months ago and I began to get stuffiness in my nose... first time in my life. Never had a problem before. So *now* I am eyeing the uncovered folded 1 inch mattress pad... and I believe it is holding moisture from the heater. Both of my dogs have bronchial congestion it seems. Sad Huh

Aaaaargh.... gonna throw out the 1 inch mattress pad, replace it with a new covered one I had just purchased anyway. Can't really wash a memory foam topper. It feels a tad moist on the bottom side but not dripping by any means. I think it might be the culprit causing the nasal stuffiness.

Anyway, sorry for such a long post, but thought perhaps this info can help others... maybe check beneath your mattress toppers in your S&Bs for moisture. I'm gonna replace my very old mattress as well.

Thanks for all the info in this thread.

 

[Calaverasgrande]

In my old Econoline conversion that I did years ago, I had a futon on a big piece of plywood with 1x1's stiffening it longways, spaced about 6 inches apart.
The bed was a stuffed cotton futon. Very firm like I like it.
After a few months of van camping on the west coast I flipped over the futon and saw a bunch of dark spots all over.
I never cooked in the van, was never any place humid with it. That was all just trapped body moisture.
Thinking of going with some kind of slats or swiss cheesed ply this time around.

 

[user 22017]

Has anyone tried slats glued to the plywood to allow air underneath the mattress? Maki2 linked to the slatted mattress support at Ikea, but the smallest width is a twin bed.

 

[scaredycat72]

Placing cardboard underneath the mattress will give you the ventilation you need.

 

[wanderlust]

This was discussed in a thread several years ago:

after the move, link is: https://vanlivingforum.com/threads/mattress-platform-condensation.3284/

This is a real issue in the boating world. A Google search on "Mattress Condensation" will turn up numerous threads on sailing and cruising forums discussing this. There are several remedies. Here's a few pointers:

https://www.nestbedding.com/blogs/news/6926850-why-is-it-damp-under-my-memory-foam-mattress

money quote is:
whether you have a memory foam mattress or organic latex mattress, it must be on a slatted, breathable base, or breathable box spring, or it will accumulate moisture and eventually mold

other links can go bad too, search for "Hypervent Condensation Prevention Matting" whish is a breathable layer under the mattress.

Another one is "HYPERVENT AIRE-FLOW™ MOISTURE BARRIER"

Reflectix between mattress and topper, suggested in another reply above, is anotehr (simpler and cheaper) solution

 

[tradesman]

I originally used Mattress insider's "hypervent air-flow" cost for a 39" wide x 72" piece twin bed size is $60.
It is 2" short of a standard twin and I could have ordered an 84" piece for $70 but I thought this was close enough.
Hypervent is ~18mm (3/4")

Researching more I saved money on my second bed using "MortairVent Rain Screen"
A roll of 40 ft is $109 at HD, enough to do 6 (six) twin XL's. I purchased a roll as I have other projects that I can use the remainder for.
The product is almost identical with the exception of the thickness.
The mortairvent is 10mm (~3/8").

A few people could purchase the MortairVent roll, (it cuts with regular scissors) and a twin size would only cost you $20., a queen size $40.

In the photo you can see the difference in thickness. The two products are also adhered to the fabric opposite and the mortairvent seems to adhere to the grid better.

Having both products, there is virtually no difference. There is also a Sailrite product which is only ~8mm and is marketed for boats which have much more moisture than a van or RV (lets hope) so the 10mm MortairVent will do just fine.

If someone would like a small sample let me know.

 

[user 22017]

Placing cardboard underneath the mattress will give you the ventilation you need.

Thanks Looks like there are many options.

 

[LargeMarge]

In my truck I have a bed platform made out of plywood and two-by-fours. At the moment, on top of that I have placed a normal bed mattress. Mattress lays directly on top of the plywood. Today is the day for me to remove all of the stuff and do a lot of painting to include the bed platform.

Over the last few months, someone has mentioned that I should drill large holes in the plywood bed platform to allow the mattress to ventilate. I have given that some thought. So far, it seems to me like a solution in search of a problem. In other words, a non-issue and not worth doing.

First, I don't think there's going to be much ventilation through eight or ten hole-saw-sized holes. Second, it would seem to weaken the bed platform without much benefit. Third, I think there are solid bed platforms all over the world that have no ventilation holes in them. Fourth, I'm as busy as can be, so if there's anything I don't need to do, I want to skip it.

On the other hand, this is my last easy chance to drill these holes if I'm going to do it.

What say you and why?

Tom

2003, we converted a 1996 Ford CF8000 commercial truck to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle.
.
I fabricated our bed platform using expanded metal, similar to stout window-screen.
Nearly two decades full-time live-aboard, no issues with moisture under the mattress.
.
We always open opposite windows, sometimes a half-inch, sometimes an inch.
Days, while we are away from the rig, we open all the windows.
And we park in the sun.

 

[scaredycat72]

Thanks Looks like there are many options.

There are but cardboard is cheap, easy, readily available, and works. I can't see spending money just to spend money, unless I'm in a funky mood but that's another post.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

It depends on how bad the moisture problem is. Cardboard absorbs water, looses structural strength, and collapses when it has absorbed enough water. It is structural paper.
It also seals, keeping air from getting to the underside of the mattress.

 

[CosmickGold]

NO!!! Don't weaken your platform with holes that won't do much good anyway. Watch this video about AirFlow, which is a pad to hold your mattress up a little so air can flow under it and any moisture can flow out.

 

[Bigbear67]

In my truck I have a bed platform made out of plywood and two-by-fours. At the moment, on top of that I have placed a normal bed mattress. Mattress lays directly on top of the plywood. Today is the day for me to remove all of the stuff and do a lot of painting to include the bed platform.

Over the last few months, someone has mentioned that I should drill large holes in the plywood bed platform to allow the mattress to ventilate. I have given that some thought. So far, it seems to me like a solution in search of a problem. In other words, a non-issue and not worth doing.

First, I don't think there's going to be much ventilation through eight or ten hole-saw-sized holes. Second, it would seem to weaken the bed platform without much benefit. Third, I think there are solid bed platforms all over the world that have no ventilation holes in them. Fourth, I'm as busy as can be, so if there's anything I don't need to do, I want to skip it.

On the other hand, this is my last easy chance to drill these holes if I'm going to do it.

What say you and why?

Tom

My mattress is on a plywood base too, screwed to a 3x2 frame. I drilled mine with plenty 65mm holes in rows about 3 inches apart. I'm a big ol' piece of meat myself, & the bed easily takes my weight & never had any damp issues si o I'd say definitely drill away!....

 

[maki2]

Preventing moisture from getting into the mattress means no issues with condensation under it. Put a breathable, waterproof mattress cover over the mattress. Then layer an absorbant pad under your sheet so it soaks up your body sweat to keep you from feeling damp and sweaty.. Always think preventing problems at the source instead of dealing with consequences. Your body is the source of the moisture, the mattress itself and the surface under it is not the cause. Prevention in the form of easy to find mattress covers is less expensive than buying that under the mattress mesh.

 

[bpdchief]

In my truck I have a bed platform made out of plywood and two-by-fours. At the moment, on top of that I have placed a normal bed mattress. Mattress lays directly on top of the plywood. Today is the day for me to remove all of the stuff and do a lot of painting to include the bed platform.

Over the last few months, someone has mentioned that I should drill large holes in the plywood bed platform to allow the mattress to ventilate. I have given that some thought. So far, it seems to me like a solution in search of a problem. In other words, a non-issue and not worth doing.

First, I don't think there's going to be much ventilation through eight or ten hole-saw-sized holes. Second, it would seem to weaken the bed platform without much benefit. Third, I think there are solid bed platforms all over the world that have no ventilation holes in them. Fourth, I'm as busy as can be, so if there's anything I don't need to do, I want to skip it.

On the other hand, this is my last easy chance to drill these holes if I'm going to do it.

What say you and why?

Tom

I have an 8" foam mattress that STARTED on a plywood platform and like Luis (Rolling Earthship) mine was getting damp on bottom. I set mattress out in sun to air dry, removed the plywood and added a few 2x4 slats in the middle where I sit. I have 7 2x4 slats - 6" in from head and foot, 8" in from that and three spaced about 6-7" apart from the middle. This provides plenty of support and allows mattress to breath. You are correct 8 or 10 holes would not be enough to ventilate the mattress, but, spaced out on plywood would not significantly weaken the plywood. Platform beds around the world do not suffer from the humidity issues prevalent in vans or trucks.

 

[scaredycat72]

It depends on how bad the moisture problem is. Cardboard absorbs water, looses structural strength, and collapses when it has absorbed enough water. It is structural paper.
It also seals, keeping air from getting to the underside of the mattress.

Hopefully someone's camper doesn't have the moisture level of a rain forest. For regular condensation due to breathing and weather, cardboard will be fine. If someone actually has water coming inside their vehicle, like when it's rain, they'll need to address that.

Cardboard does not seal and it's great at allowing air to get to the underside of the mattress, that's why it works. It's literally filled with pockets of air.

 

[HappyLife1977]

Thanks Looks like there are many options.

Nope, nope, nope. We threw some card board under a rug for insulation on the metal floor of our pickup. We're in droughty SoCal. The card board soaked up humidity and we literally had mushrooms growing under the rug in the corners. Cardboard will soak up humidity like news paper. Its a good way to soak up moisture, but throw it out when its full.

 

[HappyLife1977]

When we started out, we grabbed some foam rubber for quick mattresses on a bunk bed. Plenty of circulation. After a year they were moldy and disgusting. We got another set and this time bought cheap plastic tarps and wrapped them w duct tape. Warm in winter, cool in summer. Two years later we got our current van and i took the mattresses apart to make a folding sofa bed. The foam was pristine.

 

[scaredycat72]

Nope, nope, nope. We threw some card board under a rug for insulation on the metal floor of our pickup. We're in droughty SoCal. The card board soaked up humidity and we literally had mushrooms growing under the rug in the corners. Cardboard will soak up humidity like news paper. Its a good way to soak up moisture, but throw it out when its full.

Did you have a leak? And I changed mine every month or two to keep it fresh. It always looked fine with no mold.