So now the bad news, I did a terrible job documenting the rest of the build. I took a bunch of pictures today and will try and explain how I got to this point as I post them. I apologize in advance for the not great quality of the photos. I enjoy good photos immensely, but have never taken the time to learn much myself. We all have our strengths, and this isn't one of mine. all pictures were taken with a Nikon Coolpix point and shoot.
All the low voltage wiring was run in 14 gauge or 12 gauge to this Blue Sea 12 circuit block with a built in ground bar. I used 100% LED lighting. I also did something that I don't see done often, and it did add considerable cost in wire, but hopefully will eliminate problems down the road. I ran a separate feed and ground from every fixture all the way to the panel. My theory is this, most of the electrical issues I've seen in the past have been either ground problems, because they are usually just connected to the closest frame member by a screw, or loose connections where one wire is attached to another by means of a quick tap. You'll see an example of a quick tap in this photo, where a black wire connects to a yellow at the relay next to the Blue sea panel. It's the only one in my trailer, and it connects the trailer backup light circuit from my truck plug, to the relay that runs the trailer backup lights. They run off the trailer battery so there is very little current in that wire. They can also be turned on via a switch in the trailer. I may even change that out as it bugs me. The loop in the heavy ground wire and the brown wire wrapped with it are for a future shunt to connect a Bogart Engineering power meter. They're expensive, but will tell you so much more about your electrical system than just a volt meter.
All of the 12 volt runs through this master switch ( the big red one) with the exception of the 1000 watt inverter. I will probably run it through the master in the future also, just in case I forget to turn it off. The reason for the double gang of 110 plugs is one set runs off house power if I happen to have access to it, and the other set runs off the inverter. This set up is matched on the other end of the counter, along with the 12 volt outlet. There's also a 110 volt, and a 12 volt outlet down near the floor on this side. They are to run a future fridge when I can afford it. That would sure beat ice on long trips. When that happens I'll add a second batter and the solar to keep up.
I used this Odyssey batter. I used the same one in my last camper - a Four Wheel pop up - and it was still good after 11 years. They're expensive, but built very well. They are AGM type so I feel safe having it in my living space.
