manual awning gear box help

[Buck Wilde]

So I'm a bit stuck trying to solve an issue with the gear box for my late 80s Carefree Freedom awning.
The plastic 'loop' of the gear box that the hand crank hooks into broke off and I haven't been able to find a replacement gear box (or 'loop') for this older model.
1) does anyone have any idea where to source one (part# 419040) ? (I have scoured the internet including Carefree sources)
2) any genius ideas on how to diy a new 'loop' for the hand crank for the broken one?
I'll attach pics of my broken one and what a new one (at least a similar one) looks like
thanks!

 

[maki2]

Contact West Coast RV Recycling in Chehalis WA
They salvage and stock all kinds of older model awning parts. They also ship if you can't go there to pick the part up. You can email them and/or text the photos you posted in this thread.

 

[user 423]

JB Weld

 

[Buck Wilde]

both good tips!
thank you!

 

[Happy Camper]

Shave it into a shape that will accept a socket. Then you can use a battery powered impact driver or drill with a socket to open and close it. Just a thought.

You can also (jb?)weld a nut or bolt to the existing metal part and use a rachet or drill a mentioned above. At least until you can find your elusive part. Personally, I'd use the drill lol.

 

[Buck Wilde]

another excellent idea!
thank you so much everyone!

 

[SpinnerUp]

If the broken shaft is solid you may be able to drill and tap it to accept an eye bolt and lock nut...or JB Weld it in if the shaft is hollow...

 

[Buck Wilde]

If the broken shaft is solid you may be able to drill and tap it to accept an eye bolt and lock nut...or JB Weld it in if the shaft is hollow... View attachment 32745

I was actually thinking the exact same thing after Happy Camper's post!

 

[bullfrog]

If you look at the original picture you can see where the housing has split due to rotational force. Probably got moisture and dirt in it and froze up. Also the square shaft is off centered. Most RV shops don’t stock parts they just replace the entire awning as most are plastic and cheaply made but parts quickly add up to more than a complete awning costs. Add $100 to $150 labor charges and ends up cheaper to replace the whole thing. Manual gears are much better than the electric because you can at least feel resistance and stop cranking, the electric assisted ones just break things. Maybe someone will start 3D printing affordable parts! Also some Velcro straps to insure it stays closed in wind and while traveling are necessary or you will eventually get damage.

 

[Buck Wilde]

Yeah...I noticed that as well...it's been working ok even with the split in it if I keep it greased, so I was just gonna try to ride it out as long as possible before replacing it since all the rest of the awning is in good shape...then the hook loop broke.
...the off center square shaft is just because I had to retract the awning with pliers (a nightmarish 45 minutes in 100F+ heat) and the awning didn't roll back up square so it's a little bunched up somewhere preventing it from fully retracting.

So far I'm leaning towards tapping in an eye bolt....still waiting to hear back from a few different junk yards though...there have to be hundreds of these things in junk yards all over the country...but it does seem strange that someone isn't still making this part bc I still see plenty of these era Carefree awnings on rigs all the time.

Thanks for the input Bullfrog...and everyone else....definitely feel like I'm getting some workable options thanks to everyone's help.

 

[Buck Wilde]

on the subject of parts....(not sure if this is ok in this thread or not)

I bought what I thought was the right replacement part from RVCarefree.com but they wouldn't take it back bc it had been longer than 30 days from when I bought it by the time I figured out it was the wrong style.
If anyone is in need of the current manual gearbox assembly for the Carefree Freedom awning feel free to let me know.

 

[Happy Camper]

Just see if the square crank fits the gear box. If it does, then just drill hold to kind up with the 3 screw holes. It's not a super high torque part and should be fine.

If I wasn't in a hurry earlier I would have suggested this first since you have the part in hand. Are the holes not being in the correct spots the only issue?

 

[Buck Wilde]

Just see if the square crank fits the gear box. If it does, then just drill hold to kind up with the 3 screw holes. It's not a super high torque part and should be fine.

If I wasn't in a hurry earlier I would have suggested this first since you have the part in hand. Are the holes not being in the correct spots the only issue?

yeah I suppose so...holes aren't correct and the end cap wouldn't fit anymore...which isn't a huge deal
...I'll take a closer look at it in the morning....I'd briefly considered that when I first realized it was the wrong part but assumed I'd be able to find the correct one easily (and return the one I bought) and then forgot about that as an option
.....thanks for the idea...much appreciated!

 

[Buck Wilde]

now that I'm looking at the new part I'm not sure if that will work. On the original crank the three holes that hold it in place go all the way through but on this new one the holes don't go all the way through and it looks like there might be some kind of mechanism inside that would prevent you from being able to drill through it completely. I'll have to take this new one apart and see what's going on inside to see if there's room for holes that pass all the way through.
I think the original design is a more simple mechanism...possibly because it's a worm drive (I think that's the right term) vs everything being contained inside the body of this new crank.

 

[bullfrog]

If you are able to force/fit/JB weld a slightly larger deep well 12 point 1/2” drive socket over the remaining plastic on the shaft with out damaging the rest of it you can use a long 1/2” wobble extension and spinner handle to operate it. Cheap Harbor Freight tools work great for these one time use projects and can be added to your tire changing tools. You might be able to slightly heat the socket and melt the plastic enough to embed the socket internal splines as well.

 

[Buck Wilde]

Thought I'd report back that original formula JB Weld has done the trick so far.
I've only used the awning a couple of times since the repair and it seems to be holding up fine.
About to take a month long trip where it'll get repeated use...I'll report back with the results.
I'll be bringing along a spare socket in case it breaks again and I'll try that method if necessary.
Thank you everyone for the ideas!

 

[Buck Wilde]

Contact West Coast RV Recycling in Chehalis WA
They salvage and stock all kinds of older model awning parts. They also ship if you can't go there to pick the part up. You can email them and/or text the photos you posted in this thread.

Unfortunately they didn't have the part I was looking for but I'll definitely keep them in mind for future needs...thanks for the recommendation.

 

[BelgianPup]

When you're buying something that has a part that has frequent/continuous pressure applied, try not to choose one that has that part made of plastic. Some manufacturers seem to have missing brain cells. Who else would think plastic truck tailgate handles would be a good idea?