Limited slip diff or air locker?

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TMG51

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I know we've talked about lockers before and the verdict is to go with limited slip instead, because a locked differential can grind around corners and isn't as good on the highway.

But what about an air locker? I didn't realize until recently that this was an option. Immediate benefits that come to mind:
-Total manual control when you want it locked.
-Badass switch on the dashboard.

Are there downsides? Any reason limited slip is preferable? Cost? I want one or the other done to my van some time this year.
 
I'd think the main downsides of an air locker are the cost and increased complexity (the locker itself, an air compressor, lines, switch, etc.).

I've had a lunchbox locker in my van for a year and a half and I love it. I've found it easy to drive with it without causing problems going around corners.
 
One of the things we imagine, is that one tire is one ice, and the other is on dry pavement- that nifty differential will just pull us right out.

Usually, both tires are where they shouldn't be!

My car has a Torsen style for other purposes- is it better in snow than the open diff? Not that i notice.

They actually work best when in a situation where tires have good traction-

We had a tractor with a manual lock pedal- one time it came in handy.

And, that's not the way a 'posi' style works. The diff pin engages clutches, or cone, depending on mfg, when torque is applied, not when it's cruising.
Look at a diagram, and you'll understand
 
they also make an electronic locker. the selectable lockers give you the best of both worlds. open diff for everyday driving and locked when you need it. they are more complicated then a standard diff. they are pricy though. I like the Detroit Locker it's simple and works like a champ. it can be a little harsh at times but I am so use to it, it doesn't bother me. highdesertranger
 
I went the ARB air locker route and it is more expensive.  And more complex to install.  I saved several hundred by installing it myself.  I looked everywhere for an electric locker which is a better buy I think.(No compressor purchase or air hose routing)  Nobody offered one that I could find.  I liked the idea of changing from completely open differential to both rear axles locked with the flip of two "badass" dash switches.

  I researched "lunchbox lockers" after reading Falcon's build thread and it is definitely the easier route and much cheaper.  No experience with the noise level.

Gapper2
 
UptownSport said:
1/2 ton?

Non Dana Spicer?

2012 gmc savana 2500 w/AAM 9.5 ring gear.   It was a carrier replacement with new carrier bearings. Didn't have to mess with pinion gear stuff. ARB's carrier is top notch machined.  CNC I'm sure.  I gained courage by FALCON's build thread.  I had never seen the inside of a differential.  Had to learn and research more than I ever wanted to.  Watched lots of youtube and even ARB's installation manual didn't cover my vehicle.  Got a machinist and tool and die maker background in a much younger life.  Specs were .001 tighter and in ideal range with new carrier bearings.  Ring gear swap was tough on this old dude.

Don't know what a non Dana Spicer is?
 
gapper2 said:
gm 9.5 ring gear.
Don't know what a non Dana Spicer is?
And you can thank God you don't!

Very good, just the same!
 
If you hunt around there's going to be a lot of junkyard diffs and axles with some type of lsd that bolts right into your full size van.
Keep in mind, all the full size vans are based on parts from that manufacturers pickup lineup as well as some other vehicles.
Worst case scenario is a little welding to move something a little differently located on the van models. But hey, I'm cheap.
 
Limited Slip usually has a fairly short life and doesn't always help.

I'm going to put a Detroit locker in my Chevy as well. They work as well as anything can and last forever. Much cheaper than anything else that will work as well.

Road manners aren't the best but totally tolerable.
 
Hey Bob, I don't want to hijack the thread, but your post troubles me. My vehicle is 2wd with "Active Brake Limited Slip (ABLS)". You say it has a fairly short life. How would I be able to tell if it was dying on a vehicle under warranty? Why would they put it on a vehicle if it's going to fail?

I'm having problems finding more info on above online. All I can find is advertisments showing as a feature. Thanks,
Ted
 
Sounds like it applies brake to slipping / spinning wheel- Like you do on a tractor- but with transistors instead of boot.

Bob can reply about it's longevity
 
akrvbob said:
Limited Slip usually has a fairly short life and doesn't always help.

I'm going to put a Detroit locker in my Chevy as well. They work as well as anything can and last forever. Much cheaper than anything else that will work as well.

Road manners aren't the best but totally tolerable.

Actually, if you look into the Torsen type, (mine is the Detroit Tru-Trac) you will find these have a reputation for durability. They have no clutches to burn out. IMO they are some of the best out there.
Link to one review. ----> http://www.offroaders.com/reviewbox/showproduct.php?product=252

What's that you say? Ice? Hmm. Watch the first minute of this. ;)
https://youtu.be/G1RLCtQ2lBI
https://youtu.be/G1RLCtQ2lBI
http://www.offroaders.com/reviewbox/showproduct.php?product=252
 
Different types of LSD options have different lifespans and maintenance.
Shortest lived are viscous types and they are seldom maintained properly.
Some designs will live as long as any other major part however.
 
WalkaboutTed said:
Hey Bob, I don't want to hijack the thread, but your post troubles me. My vehicle is 2wd with "Active Brake Limited Slip (ABLS)". You say it has a fairly short life. How would I be able to tell if it was dying on a vehicle under warranty? Why would they put it on a vehicle if it's going to fail?  

I'm certainly no drivetrain expert but I believe that is a fancy name for Automatic Traction Control which basically uses the ABS wheel sensors and the brakes, plus the ABS computer, to help increase traction in slippery conditions. I don't think it uses any parts that wear out rapidly, other than the normal wear rate of your brake pads. It's not the same as a passive limited slip.

And I would assume there is an overide or lockout switch or setting somewhere on the dash or in the menu system. There is also probably an indicator light that lets you know when it is activated.
 
Ballenxj said:
Actually, if you look into the Torsen type, (mine is the Detroit Tru-Trac) you will find these have a reputation for durability. They have no clutches to burn out. IMO they are some of the best out there.

Car has a Torsen type- It clearly works, and works very well.
It's also expensive, heavy, and noisy.

I'd never suggest someone install one unless they have a clear need, though.
Sorry, just not a soldier in the consumer culture.

A railroad jack and spade will get you out of anything- Cheaper, far more effective and versatile than a differential.
 
UptownSport said:
Car has a Torsen type- It clearly works, and works very well.
It's also expensive, heavy, and noisy.

I'd never suggest someone install one unless they have a clear need, though.
Sorry, just not a soldier in the consumer culture.

A railroad jack and spade will get you out of anything- Cheaper, far more effective and versatile than a differential.
But you have to have some strong young fella with you to get out of the truck and get muddy with those!
 
LoL

Mud's just the same when stuck with the nifty Torsen, maybe a little deeper
 
depends on what you want to do?

a locker is a manually engaged only when you need it
a limited slip is automatic and full time

a locker is only good for hard core situations
a limited slip is good in general driving

i'd say if you plan on taking your rig in 4x4 situations and spending most of your time way out in the woods,a locker
if you plan on more pavement driving with basic forest/logging roads,a limited slip

i'm planning limited slip
 
akrvbob said:
I'm going to put a Detroit locker in my Chevy as well....

Road manners aren't the best but totally tolerable.

Bob, could you elaborate on this statement please? By road manners are you talking about noise, rough/bumpy, or control/drivability issues? Thanks!
 
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