Leaking windows on class c RV

[mninwast]

Hello all, I guess this is the thread to ask this in,  I hope. Does anyone know if the spray sealants will seal the outside of a leaking window?  I'm an older woman and don't think I can take the window out by myself and replace the seal.  My class c is a 27 ft, I guess that doesn't make any difference does it!  Thank You for any help you might give. Love this blog.  Marilyn

 

[Gary68]

what part of the country are you at?

 

[shadow]

Hello all, I guess this is the thread to ask this in,  I hope. Does anyone know if the spray sealants will seal the outside of a leaking window?  I'm an older woman and don't think I can take the window out by myself and replace the seal.  My class c is a 27 ft, I guess that doesn't make any difference does it!  Thank You for any help you might give. Love this blog.  Marilyn

The proper way to fix a leaking window is to remove it and replace the butyl tape seal.
Silicone or any other sealer that goes around the outside of the window is a band aid fix that wont last very long.

 

[LoupGarou]

Make sure the drain holes are clear in the tracks. These often fill up with dirt and clog.

Flex-Seal to the rescue!

 

[hepcat]

LoupGarou hit on the #1 problem with RV windows leaking.  The tracks and weep holes fill up with debris, the tracks can't drain, and then they leak down the inside wall.  That's especially prevalent on units that don't move much or get washed often.  As he suggests, clean your tracks and weep holes out.  Weed wacker line is especially good at doing that.

You don't mention which window(s) or what kind they are that are leaking.  Different kinds of windows have different issues.  Some motorhomes have a front cab-over window that is at an angle with an automotive-windshield type seal that eventually shrinks, and subsequently leaks.  I had one on a Born Free 23' motorhome.  There are two places those commonly leak; first is around the top seal, and the other is at the bottom where the water pools on the window and seeps through the seal.

The fix for that is to either remove the window and have a new seal installed; or go to NAPA and get some MS-4121 windshield sealant.  It's a thin, gooey black sealant that will run down into gaps and re-seal those places that have gapped because the seal shrank.  Use it sparingly and carefully.

 

[Charlotte's Web]

Love this blog.  Marilyn

Hepcat's advice will serve you very well.   Preventing leaks is critical!

Whatever you do, NEVER use silicon on an RV.  It hardens & is near impossible
to remove later when resealing roof or windows.

Removing windows is easier than it appears, but another pair of hands helps a lot.
You can do it!

 

[highdesertranger]

yes, yes, and yes, check your weep holes first, clean them out. if your window still leaks the only right way to seal it is to remove the window and reseal it. it's easiest if you have another set of hands. highdesertranger

 

[Almost There]

It does take 2 people to remove and re-install a window, one outside and one inside. Also a good ladder!

I had one of my windows in my fiberglass high top leaking. I took it in to an RV place and they did it inside of an hour and charged me $50.00. That's Canadian so it's probably somewhat less in the states.

If you've got the RV parked, try to find a mobile RV mechanic. Most of them are a little less expensive anyways because they've not got the high overhead costs of a RV dealership.

 

[mninwast]

Wow I thank all of you very much.  My Rv is an 1988 27 ft and I think every window on the rig needs to be resealed.  Boo!  After I put this on  the  forum, I thought to myself, well self why don't I go on you tube and look and as per all your advice I think I could do this if I found someone to help me. Would it help to use flex seal on the outside of the after they were resealed as added protection?  It's going to be interesting to see how much I can bring this old girl back, but she runs good   Thanks again for your help

 

[mninwast]

Oh I forgot to say I live in Wa. state, can we say rain and again Boo!

 

[rvpopeye]

New butyl tape should seal them up .....

 

[Charlotte's Web]

Oh I forgot to say I live in Wa. state, can we say rain and again Boo!

I feel your pain mninwast!  I live in a rainy state, *especially* this winter.  Youtube is your friend.
I will soon be facing many of the same issues you have. 

I *strongly* recommend you go to the youtube channel called "Duet Justus" for all the help you need
with Class C issues.   I've watched all Class C youtube channels on Class C repairs & this one is tops.

They break down each project & have one specifically for window re-sealing, including removal/replacement.
Their videos are a delight to watch, well edited, lots of fun too.

I will be keeping an eye out for reports from you on your progress, since I am a woman who will also
be tackling these sorts of job by myself, too.

Best of Luck
Charlotte

 

[sourdough]

Locate the leak before you pull your window. I had two windows leak between the glass and the aluminum frame, not the alum. frame and body.

 

[LibertyHound]

Do not use flex seal it will yellow and crack as the sun hits it (experience).  Also as an owner of a 1988 Fleetwood Jamboree I urge you to inspect the roof or rather the sides of the roof. I thought it was my windows leaking and it turned out to be the pin holes rotting in the metal roof. I will not get into the mantua that followed that discovery. But you should only need new Butyl tape to seal windows. self leveling calking or any liquid sealant should only be used as a temp fix until...  

I hate to share a to much of my last six months of struggle with water damage and leaks. I don't want anyone to get nervous like I was but I do like stress annual roof coverage and monthly inspection of window seals. It will save you so much heartaches.

Korey