Just how dangerous is keeping a 20 lb propane tank in an RV for use with. Big Buddy?

[Brian_and_Jesse]

We own 2 Mr. Buddy Heaters (Big Buddy) - one for backup - and we live in a stationary (until the end of April) 27’ class A RV.

We have always kept our 20 lb tanks outside, but it’s just too cold here (Canada) got that to be viable in winter.

The regulator keeps icing up, regardless of how well we insulate it, and the hose itself is well insulated, but we can’t get a regulated flow of propane to the heater, and we run one heater at a time 24/7.  We’ve been doing this for two winters now and we didn’t have a problem last winter - don’t know why/why not.

*This* winter though, we are FREEZING because of the ice buildup on the regulator (every couple of hours or so), and we’re in exactly the same spot that we were last winter.

It’s not as if I can go out there and get rid of the ice myself. I’m in a wheelchair and can’t leave the RV without Brian, and he’s working 14 hours’ a day during ski season, so I’m functionally in jail here and getting pretty sick from the relentless cold.

I want to bring the tank inside and put it well behind the (zero clearance) heater.

We have all the correct hoses - a backup one too - and have done *everything* by the book.

Our ventilation is fine and we’ve had no problems in that dept.

We check the connections and hose *every* time we change the tanks, but we also check them 2-3 times a day, *every* day, just to be on the safe side.

So, now that you know the what, where, and how of our operation, is there any reason why we couldn’t bring the tank we’re using INSIDE our RV, which would, of course, solve all of our problems?

As I said, we’re stationary at the moment, and the temps inside this rig do not exceed  65°F, so I see no reason why the propane would expand inside the tank and blow us both to... the hot place.

Are any of you *safely* using a tank inside your RV, trailer,  box van, or regular van etc?

We’re unbearably cold here!  We’ve been using 1 lb bottles just to stay alive while we solve this problem, but we can’t afford (financially) to keep that up.

Any help would be *greatly* appreciated.

Happy New Year to you all!

B&J.

 

[MrNoodly]

There are many threads on this question and many polarized opinions.

 

[Homeless in Canada]

Would it help to make a box to shelter the propane tank from the cold?

 

[Moxadox]

One option might be to rent a larger propane tank for the season. That would be the safest, least expensive choice, if you are parked in a location that allows it.

The Dire Wolfess

 

[regis101]

There is already propane in the RV via the stove/oven, furnace, water heater.

One has to make their own decision.

 

[Theiznezz]

I'm in a 93 Chevy coachman
I have a 30lb tank in the back beside the toilet. I run a 10 ft buddy hose to my Mr heater. It's going on my 3rd year now. No problems. I'm a smoker too lol.

 

[Theiznezz]

Also, when the fill your tanks they don't fill to maximum capacity. They fill them about 80% to leave room for expansion so it doesn't explode. I really wouldn't worry about it much and checking it multiple times a day is overkill. I make sure my connection is secure when I refill and hook it back up and I pretty much forget about it until it needs refilled.

 

[Doubleone]

Some dangers are fire, suffocation, and carbon monoxide (CO).   Assuming you understand the risks and and accept responsibility... soapy water on the hoses and connections and bubbles reveal LPG leaks.  The heater should have a built-in flame out safety device that shuts off gas if flame is lost.  LPG displaces oxygen and is heavier than air; it builds from the ground up.  Breathing LPG means you don't get as much oxygen into your lungs and you can pass out and die.  A working LPG detector should be mounted somewhere low nearby.  CO diffuses into the air and fills a space evenly so a CO detector can be mounted anywhere in the main space.  Have good air exchange in the living space and a working CO detector with a digital level read out.  Adequate air exchange means heat is lost as cold outside air is brought in. CO poisoning is accumulative, so even small amounts over a long period can make you sick.  As oxygen is depleted from the space, CO will increase rapidly.  A CO detector with readout can better inform your decisions.  Please be safe...  

Here's a link to another post with more information about the dangers and yearly deaths.  
https://vanlivingforum.com/showthread.php?tid=34344&pid=427913#pid427913

 

[Wabbit]

How dangerous is keeping a tank in your vehicle? On a scale of 1-10, I have no idea. Is it dangerous? Yes, for reasons already mentioned. Do people do it? Yes. I have 3 #20 in my van. One for cooking, one for Lil Buddy heater, and a spare full one.

 

[JD GUMBEE]

The tank itself is so-so in the danger zone...but if you are running a rubber hose to a regulator (meaning the rubber hose takes full pressure to the regulator actually mounted to the heater) if it ever ruptured or was cut/worn causing it to fail...by the time you could shut it or get it out of the RV...you would be in big trouble. (If you lived through the initial *BOOM*)

This is what would be happening on the inside of your RV. (That is...AFTER the gas reached any spark, flame or other ignition source.)===

I would not do it.

Rather run a properly plumbed in unit. Even if you go with a "Buddy" heater, use a regulator on the tank, so the line is not under full pressure.

If you have power at your site, why not cover the tank with a coffee can and put a light bulb inside?
(It would be a lot safer than driving full pressure through a rubber line inside your RV.)

 

[regis101]

Back in my RV daze, it was habit to light the stove then turn off the bottle(s). Thus draining the lines. When reestablishing a camp, having purged lines would sometimes take a minute or two to relight the appliances.
However I, we, felt safer with this method.

 

[Matlock]

We own 2 Mr. Buddy Heaters (Big Buddy) - one for backup - and we live in a stationary (until the end of April) 27’ class A RV.

snip
I want to bring the tank inside and put it well behind the (zero clearance) heater.

We have all the correct hoses - a backup one too - and have done *everything* by the book.


So, now that you know the what, where, and how of our operation, is there any reason why we couldn’t bring the tank we’re using INSIDE our RV, which would, of course, solve all of our problems?

B&J.

I carry one 20# and one 11# tank inside my Box Van and feel safe.

If you bring the 20# bottle inside your RV and let it warm up some, keep away from any ignition source, check for leaks when connecting and use a new hose/regulator every year if not using copper line. Sounds like you know what your doing and you will be fine with the tank indoors.

 

[Brian_and_Jesse]

Would it help to make a box to shelter the propane tank from the cold?

We already tried that, HIC, but nothing has been warm enough so far. We aren’t allowed to build anything resembling a permanent structure here, so we’re limited by campground rules.

Brian raised the propane tank a couple of feet off the ground last night, and it *did* seem to help. (Less hose out in the cold and less gravity for the propane to fight with.) That doesn’t help with ice on the regulator, but I’m going to convert a 60-gallon water heater jacket into a highly insulated jacket for whichever propane tank we’re using.

I thank you all for your suggestions; I’ll keep you posted.

I apologize to anyone and everyone who finds this subject tiresome, but please know that I spent quite a while searching through the ‘old’ threads here before posting. I’m legally blind, so it’s conceivable that I could have missed something pertinent. I know the value of time and wouldn’t dream of wasting yours purposefully.

Blessings!

Jesse.

 

[Brian_and_Jesse]

One option might be to rent a larger propane tank for the season.  That would be the safest, least expensive choice, if you are parked in a location that allows it.

The Dire Wolfess

Thank you, Moxadox, but campground only allows 20 lb tanks, unfortunately.

 

[Brian_and_Jesse]

There is already propane in the RV via the stove/oven, furnace, water heater.  

One has to make their own decision.  

Thanks, Regis, but we don’t use propane for anything other than heating.

 

[Brian_and_Jesse]

I'm in a 93 Chevy coachman
I have a 30lb tank in the back beside the toilet. I run a 10 ft buddy hose to my Mr heater. It's going on my 3rd year now. No problems. I'm a smoker too lol.

LOL! Well, that’s encouraging! *Thank* you! If our outside ideas don’t work, I’ll think of you if I become nervous! ?

Blessings!

Jess.

 

[Brian_and_Jesse]

Also, when the fill your tanks they don't fill to maximum capacity. They fill them about 80% to leave room for expansion so it doesn't explode. I really wouldn't worry about it much and checking it multiple times a day is overkill. I make sure my connection is secure when I refill and hook it back up and I pretty much forget about it until it needs refilled.

Theiznezz, you have no idea how much you’re helping to calm my nerves! Bless you!

When I was five years’ old, I watched a trailer blow up not 50’ from where we were staying (at an Air Force base, waiting for sticks & bricks quarters). A lady and her newborn baby were in that trailer and they couldn’t even find enough of their body parts to bury. That’s not a scene I’ll ever forget.

Her problem was a pilot light issue though, and not what we’re discussing. Still, for anyone inclined to think I’m paranoid, or over cautious, now you know why.

 

[Brian_and_Jesse]

Some dangers are fire, suffocation, and carbon monoxide (CO).   Assuming you understand the risks and and accept responsibility... soapy water on the hoses and connections and bubbles reveal LPG leaks.  The heater should have a built-in flame out safety device that shuts off gas if flame is lost.  LPG displaces oxygen and is heavier than air; it builds from the ground up.  Breathing LPG means you don't get as much oxygen into your lungs and you can pass out and die.  A working LPG detector should be mounted somewhere low nearby.  CO diffuses into the air and fills a space evenly so a CO detector can be mounted anywhere in the main space.  Have good air exchange in the living space and a working CO detector with a digital level read out.  Adequate air exchange means heat is lost as cold outside air is brought in. CO poisoning is accumulative, so even small amounts over a long period can make you sick.  As oxygen is depleted from the space, CO will increase rapidly.  A CO detector with readout can better inform your decisions.  Please be safe...  

Here's a link to another post with more information about the dangers and yearly deaths.  
https://vanlivingforum.com/showthread.php?tid=34344&pid=427913#pid427913

Thank you, Doubleone; we have adequate ventilation and a good CO detector. We’ve been RV-ing for many years (this is our fifth rig), but we usually follow the sun (we had planned to be in Arizona now), but one of our daughters is critically ill, so everything formerly planned has been put on the back burner for the last two years.

We’re full-timers now, so we have nowhere else to go, which is fine, but this rig wasn’t built to weather Canadian winters.

We’re hoping to scale down to a new GMC (high top) extended cargo van later this year.

Blessings!

Jesse.

 

[Brian_and_Jesse]

How dangerous is keeping a tank in your vehicle? On a scale of 1-10, I have no idea. Is it dangerous? Yes, for reasons already mentioned. Do people do it? Yes. I have 3 #20 in my van. One for cooking, one for Lil Buddy heater, and a spare full one.

ROFLOL! And apparently you’re still here!

Thank you so much for the confidence boost!

Jess.

 

[Brian_and_Jesse]

The tank itself is so-so in the danger zone...but if you are running a rubber hose to a regulator (meaning the rubber hose takes full pressure to the regulator actually mounted to the heater) if it ever ruptured or was cut/worn causing it to fail...by the time you could shut it or get it out of the RV...you would be in big trouble. (If you lived through the initial *BOOM*)

This is what would be happening on the inside of your RV. (That is...AFTER the gas reached any spark, flame or other ignition source.)===  

I would not do it.

Rather run a properly plumbed in unit. Even if you go with a "Buddy" heater, use a regulator on the tank, so the line is not under full pressure.

If you have power at your site, why not cover the tank with a coffee can and put a light bulb inside?
(It would be a lot safer than driving full pressure through a rubber line inside your RV.)

Thank you, JD.

We have the proper hose for the Mr. Heater Big Buddy and it comes equipped with a regulator. We bought it from the manufacturer, just to be safe (we bought a spare one too), and Brian talked extensively with the company’s RV specialist. The hose is fully insulated around the exterior too, making cuts and untimely wear unlikely. Still, Brian removes the foam insulation, and checks for leaks, every time we change a tank (every 2.5 - 3 days). We run Buddy, usually at half output, 24/7.