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Paisley777

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I bought my Renogy 200W system with the Wanderer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCRG22A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have 2 batteries
https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sligc115

I also have an inverter on the way (though that is not the priority for me), 12v socket, battery cables to connect the two, & 10g wire.

I also FINALLY figured out how I'll get the panels attached to my fiberglass high top ... I think. (fingers crossed)

So... I know I need fuses off the batteries, but what kind?  30A?  Would this kind work?:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FDWP4A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I have some confusion about getting the wires inside.  I bought a marine connector but it wouldn't fit 10G.  Not 100% sure, but thinking maybe a waterproof house box sealed to the top and covering the hole might do? 

What am I missing?  (I usually assume I am missing something!)  lol
 
For passing solar wires through roof there are many options from very basic drill a hole cover it with sealant, to marine level 90 degree aerodynamic pass through's and many points in between.

Some options in this thread:
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-90-degree-solar-wire-roof-pass-through

I prefer these water tight fuses for single circuits as i do not like glass barrell fuses:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...71&sr=1-1&keywords=atc+fuse+holder+waterproof

but for hooking fuses to house batteries a fuse block is better than many individual fuses:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Systems..._UL320_SR208,320_&refRID=6WAE33ZDW63NTZY2NPB1

Catastrophic fuses can be put right on battery terminals such as these:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys..._SR160,160_&psc=1&refRID=250FP9DEYAGRTYDS86Q5

There are so many ways to do it.
 
SternWake said:
There are so many ways to do it.

Therein lies the trouble sometimes - option overload.

I found a pass-through I like - Thanks!

Catastrophic fuse?  I'm only familiar with the inline kind.

Here is a diagram I am following (forgot where I found it - sorry) and the ANL fuses are HUGE.  Seems like way more than I need for my little system. So I am trying to substitute something else.  Would that 'waterproof inline' work for that?


I was already planning to get the Blue Systems 6 fuse block to feed off to the lights and such.
 

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I am with stern ditch that glass in line fuse. what size invertor? that will determine he size of the fuse and wire to run it. the refer should go straight to the battery with a fuse of course. try to use the same fuse type that your vehicle uses. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
I am with stern ditch that glass in line fuse.  what size invertor?   that will determine he size of the fuse and wire to run it.  the refer should go straight to the battery with a fuse of course.  try to use the same fuse type that your vehicle uses.  highdesertranger

My 79 uses glass fuses.  lol  But I will go with blades for this.

The inverter is 2000W.  I don't see using it too much, but wanted the option.
 
well if your vehicle uses glass fuses then use glass fuses. my 78 uses the plastic blade fuses. a 2000w invertor is going to need substantial wire(more than 10g) and a substantial fuse. no glass fuse there. highdesertranger
 
Paisley777 said:
Therein lies the trouble sometimes - option overload.

I found a pass-through I like - Thanks!

Catastrophic fuse?  I'm only familiar with the inline kind.

Here is a diagram I am following (forgot where I found it - sorry) and the ANL fuses are HUGE.  Seems like way more than I need for my little system. So I am trying to substitute something else.  Would that 'waterproof inline' work for that?


I was already planning to get the Blue Systems 6 fuse block to feed off to the lights and such.

Did you make that diagram? If so it's a good one! I'd like to use it if you did. Bob
 
akrvbob said:
Did you make that diagram? If so it's a good one! I'd like to use it if you did. Bob

It is a nice chart.

The solar charge controller will want a fuse between itself and  house battery.

If one is seeking maximum alternator contribution to battery charging, hook solenoid to alternator(+) stud, not engine battery.


Instead of the battery post clamps with threaded stud, One could have the cable with a battery post clamp and eliminate some electrical resistance.  Optimas are not  a great house battery, they have ~25% less capacity than a rectangular AGM of the same footprint and height.

Store bought battery cables are usually very poor, with steel ring terminals.

This joint can make a much better cable for about the same $$ from top quality components.  Just figure out the lengths required before hand.

If one wants to make their own  battery cables, then a hydraulic crimper will make a MUCH better longer lasting lower resistance crimp compared to a hammer crimper.  Use thick walled ring terminals only big enough to barely fit over threaded studs.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/terminating_small_wires

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_fusing
 
SternWake said:

Those links made for some good reading...I'd never given thought to the quality of hand crimpers.

I would think that using the heatshrink type would be good in general to prevent corrosion even in non-marine environments...?
 
that is a nice clear diagram.  I would make a few changes to it.  like I said before the refer should be run straight to the battery with a dedicated fuse of course.  I would also use military battery terminals,  like these.

mil term.jpg

much better connection then those el cheapo marine terminals.  I would also use tinned copper ring terminals on the large lugs,  they resist corrosion much better.  highdesertranger
 

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I'm going to ask a dumb question...why do those milspec terminals each have 2 cables?
 
that's just showing how easy it is to add cables. the cables bolt on though the bolt, the bolt is 3/8 diameter. you can have one cable or many cables. they also make covers for them. all around a 100% better terminal then the marine terminal. they are available in bronze if you are so inclined. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
well if your vehicle uses glass fuses then use glass fuses. 

Why?  Is it just for simplicity of having the same replacement components?
 
OK.  I redid the graphic to more fit my actual system and make changes as I understand them now.
 

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The charge controller will say what size fuse to use between it and battery.  The Blue seas fuse on the battery itself would likely be way too high a rating for it.


10AWG to the fuse block from battery might also be on the light side, depending on how much your loads are.  I have a ~8 inch run of 4 AWG to mine even though the loads run through it will never need that much copper

The fuse block might have a ground buss, or one can employ a separate ground bussbar to help organize wiring to the loads.
 
My 2000W inverter required 2/0 battery cables and a 250 amp fuse. I use the bluesea on the battery terminal ones posted someplace above. The cables were made to order by GenuineDeals, in my hands two days after i ordered them.
 
what happened to the refer? how for from the alternator to the aux battery? you might need some larger cable. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
what happened to the refer?  how for from the alternator to the aux battery?  you might need some larger cable.  highdesertranger

My fault - I was using a borrowed pic that was not very accurate.  That's why I updated it.

While I would like a fridge someday, now I only have a little, low watt cooler.

Alt to house batteries?... about 6 ft.
 

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