Insulating the floor

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JeffJones

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I will be in cold snow conditions as well as hot AZ. & Utah heat climates. The more I read the more confused I get on this. Any advise would be appreciated.

First layer on the metal van floor will be Reflextic with a 1/4-1/2" air gap.
Second layer with by the pink solid board, 1/2"
Third layer will be 1/2" plywood
Last will be vinyl flooring.

Does this sound like a good plan? Any suggestions
Thank you
 
I just watched Bob's Well's video #2 on van insulation and he did not insulate his van floor at all and very little done on the walls. It seems like I am doing a overkill and combining every video I have seen and spending way to much money.
So with that said I will do some polyiso and plywood and flooring. Maybe that is too much even. I feel I want some sort of insulation board down. More thinking to do.
 
Absolutely no value to the Reflectix + airgap on a floor, no matter facing up or down.

If you can spare the lost headroom, put more foam down (or above) instead.

Note that heat rises, so for cold ambient heated interior, put much thicker up top than below.

If using aircon, that's opposite, so if both make all six sides the same.

If you can get the floor dead flat at the foam level, no need for such heavy ply, just need puncture resistance, the foam is compression strong enough.
 
I have 1/2 foil faced foam insulating board under my plywood flooring. It is a lot nicer for my feet than before it was insulated. Reflextic does next to nothing, maybe less.
 
The first increment of insulation in what is essentially a metal box will substantially reduce heat flow making it easier to heat or cool. I’d put as much foam as practical on every surface possible including the floor. The R-value of a metal surface including the air films is around R1. Adding even just R1 to this system will cut conduction heat flow in half.
 
Bob put a fair amount of wall and roof insulation on his walls in his most recent build.

One thing he did which struck me as memorable is he put a string through the path his wiring went, so if he needed to add a wire later, it would be easy to get it fed to where it needed to be. Dunno if you're keeping something like that in mind already; just thought I would mention it.
 
I'd like to get some kind of radiant floor heating . . . for those winter mornings when warmth would be appreciated. I wonder, if I had that, would I even need any other kind of heater?
 
Hydronic water based, can feed a space heating radiator as well as the floor pipes.
 
I was thinking of getting an electric floor heating system - and just looked at one, at Amazon - and it said not to use next to wood or carpets! What's left? I guess I'll have to consult an expert.
 
Only going to work at powered campsites.

Best for off-grid is a burner using your vehicle fuel like Webasto / Espar.

for propane could adapt a HWS, maybe one of the tankless instant ones.
 
travelaround said:
I was thinking of getting an electric floor heating system - and just looked at one, at Amazon - and it said not to use next to wood or carpets! What's left? I guess I'll have to consult an expert.

Umm ... I don't see what the problem is here?  Obviously just get a floor that hovers?  Like everyone else?* 

Duh ...

___________________________
*Posted by FutureDingfelder
Transfer your consciousness into epigenetically networked biomechanical fungi now? Ask me now!
 
JeffJones said:
I just watched Bob's Well's video #2 on van insulation and he did not insulate his van floor at all and very little done on the walls. It seems like I am doing a overkill and combining every video I have seen and spending way to much money.
So with that said I will do some polyiso and plywood and flooring. Maybe that is too much even. I feel I want some sort of insulation board down. More thinking to do.

I agree with others here. there is zero value of reflectix on a floor. Bob Wells has a great page here on this site about insulation where he explains the three kinds of insulation and heat transfer: radiant (sunlight which is fantastic for reflectix), conductive and convection. mostly you'll be dealing with the second, conductive, on the floor. I'd say a half inch of polyiso foam (higher R value than pink foam) and a layer of ply, then your vinyl should be fine. Bob Wells is not a fan of insulating floors using logic that heat rises and if you create an upside down cup the heat will stay inside. I I went with that logic and didn't insulate my floor, but regret it and wish I had at least a half inch down there
 
i went back and forth over what to do with the floor insulation. On one hand i wanted insulation and on the other i had to think about the possibility of water somehow making its way to the floor. i ended up using the cork underlayment that goes under laminate wood floors. I put one layer under my sub floor and then another lay under my wood floor. Between the the cork underlayment and the sub floor as well as my actual floor i figured i have enough. I also have a throw rug down which i think does more then anything.

Now if any water were to make it's way into my floor the channels are all open and water would have a way to get out. In the end I was happiest with this system and it was the least frustrating to build.
 
I'm finally cutting reflectix for the interior of my T & C minivan. It's cold and the floor is the worst area. Saw Bob's vid on the insulating board for van windows. Watched countless vids on minivan curtains behind front seats and all around. Way more challenging in a minivan than in full size van. Bought the ceramic magnets but no metal to attach things to.

Now I'm wondering how to insulate the floor. Would it be possible to cut the polyiso in smaller pieces to accomodate the uneven stow n go floor? Does it cut like the foam board Bob used in the window...just a pair of scissors or big exacto knife?

I would be losing precious head room to cover the floor but must keep it warm. What do I cover it with to protect it? Would carpet do or does it have to be plywood (thickness?) or some other substance? Condensation solution? If I get a heater it will be catalytic not Buddy.

Thanks for your help!
 
I bought this floor padding from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BXTJDTP/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is available from different manufacturers and in many different colors, thicknesses, and even print patterns. They even come in wood prints(from some vendors), and you can both cut them to fit and interlock them along their outer edges. You can even lay them down together in checkerboard patterns if you want to get creative.

I got them mostly for my dog, as my bed is high and it's a long way down to the floor for a dog whose joints are not getting any younger. But also I'm sure they will both do some work as insulation and protect my original floors. I'll lift them out and check them for mold or fungus once in a while. I've already been using some decorative carpeting, and may just through that on top.
 
Yup.

I installed mine and the fit is near perfect even without any cutting, so I got lucky. I wouldn't mind a few more "end pieces," though. Most of mine got used in a line, not a square, so I have a few jigsaw-looking edges. But they're not where I step anyway.

I really like how firm mine are. You feel like you are walking on solid ground rather than sinking in. And luckily, my fridge still opens.
 
Well, to avoid pointless and uncalled-for nonsense, "I" installed one-inch thick, exactly as linked.
 
Check out what Campervan Kevin just put in - I like it - going to do it too.
 
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