Info On Common Vans

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Well, I don't know everything, haha. But ... Minor leaks are part of what contributes to the heavy oil consumption I mentioned but they don't always get any worse than that. The Chevy intake failure that can dump coolant into the cylinders is a greater concern and typically occurs without warning. I advise everyone to replace BEFORE going out on the road full timing just to be sure. The Dodges should be avoided for their transmission issues. Doesn't matter how well or poorly your magnum runs if you can't make that power go anywhere, haha.
 
BradKW said:
Good stuff, thanks! Couple Q's...

1) I was under the impression that transmission "flushing" was the upgraded service over just a drain & replace. I know that a garage told me that once and they charged more, I believe saying it required special piece of equipment. They also cautioned me that it could damage the seals on my older van. If you could comment further on different ways to service a tranny...?

2) I've read that "fleet maintained" isn't what it used to be...in fact, it shouldn't be considered a "sales point" to justify higher price anymore. I read this in a forum (possibly manufacturer specific, not sure) and the OP was a fleet mechanic. Others with claimed fleet maintenance experience supported this. The basic premis was: Fleet maintenance has gone so far corporate that the theme is now "get it in, get it done fast, get it out as cheap as possible."

I don't necessarily have a valid opinion on mechanical issues at all...I can change a tire, swap a battery, and...hmm, surely there must be something else....

A flush forced fluid through and tend to break free gunk that should be left well enough alone. The problem with QUICK drain/fills is that they don't get all the fluid out of the torque converter (not that you can ever really get all of it). Let drain overnight if possible and then fill. --- BUT, I prefer to use the stock transmission cooler lines extended to buckets and allow the transmission to pump in it's own new fluid. This means no high pressure spikes and the fluid all flows through normally as it pumps the old fluid out.

I do agree on the modern fleet maintenance issue. The more important factor is records. Smaller places tend to have better records/service than larger places.
 
ArtW said:
I think a good write up of minis would be good too

I already wrote one! It is even more details but just not a sticky, haha. Check this section of the forum. It's called "Info On Common Minivans"
 
Optimistic Paranoid said:
The Ford 4.6, 5.4, and 6.8(V-10) engines had the broken spark plug problem from 04 to EARLY 08.  The problem was corrected on the 5.4 and 6.8 after 10/09/07 and on the 4.6 after 11/30/07.  The engine build date can be found on a sticker on the engine itself.  These were all 3 valve heads and 2 piece spark plugs.

Earlier versions of the same engines had 2 valve heads and 1 piece spark plugs.  They had a different problem - the spark plugs could blow out while the engine was running, stripping the spark plug hole.

I have an '04 5.4L... is there a common/easy fix to this, such as replacing the valve covers with a later version?
 
HumbleBeginnings said:
I have an '04 5.4L... is there a common/easy fix to this, such as replacing the valve covers with a later version?

Yes. Replace the original plugs with the suggested 1 piece versions. 
If you break off a plug during removal Ford actually makes a tool specifically made for removing the broken off base.
Best to have a professional shop do the job. You'd rather they be the ones to fix it than yourself.

Quick note: Valve covers are exactly that, covers. Spark plugs thread into the head themselves.
Plug holes often go THROUGH valve covers but the covers just serve to keep debris out and oil in.
 
HumbleBeginnings said:
Gotcha. Obviously it's been a long time since I've taken a valve cover off! Thanks.

Haha, no problem. Mind you, it might have already been done on your vehicle. 
I've suggested to a few to go to those "We will change the plugs on any vehicle for $99" places.
Personally, I wouldn't spend a hundred bucks to have someone change plugs.
BUT, if you might have this issue and aren't a mechanic ... Probably not a bad idea.
Not for most motors obviously but if you have one of the potential problem motors.
 
Gideon33w said:
First, lets take a look at the Ford vans.

The quick and dirty to the Ford vans is as follows: Rear differentials are great, nearly all transmissions offered are good, motors are good runners but several have a common issue (which is a huge pain but fixable), suspension is an older/stiffer but tougher design.

Now, onto the details ...

Read Ends - Ford rear ends found in these vans will be the 8.8" and 9". Both are very stout, have tons of aftermarket support (helpful if you want to change gearing), and will generally be problem free. People often forget that the rear differentials need services. Swap to synthetic gear oil and replace the gasket. These units should hold up for the life of your van no problem.

Transmissions - What was used depends on your vehicles years and motor choice. Suffice it to say that with regular maintenance they will all serve you well. That said, the Ford offerings here are known for being fine right up until they aren't. They will also be the most expensive to repair and replace of the Big 3. Upgraded components are available and suggested for long trouble free life. Synthetic fluid is a MUST. The AOD transmissions are known for great highway MPGs but poor city numbers due to gearing.

Suspension - Ford utilized an older front suspension design right into the 2000s called a "Twin I Beam". This setup is extremely durable but has two key issues. First, it will offer the most truck like ride of the Big 3 vans. This means that it will be a bit harsher and likely have more body roll. Second, this older design does a much poorer job at optimizing suspension geometry when compressed. In other words, all the nice angles your suspension uses become goofed the more load you apply. This has resulted in many complaints of uneven tire wear a premature suspension issues. However, this problem has an easy fix. Get your van aligned when it is at full weight. An alignment when empty followed by laden driving is the issue. Having your alignment set for the same weight and weight distribution you will be driving under negates this issue almost completely. Now you have a properly set suspension which is by far the strongest of the Big 3.

Motors - This section has to be split into two categories. Motors in vans 97 onward are different and have a specific problem. Here is the breakdown.

4.9L I6 (300ci "Truck Six") - 96 and earlier - This motor will be harder to find in the vans vs trucks but if you find one ... buy it. This is easily one of the top 10 gasoline motors ever produced. Nearly unkillable, amazing power and fuel economy, gear driven timing means no timing belt or chain to worry about.

4.9 V8 (commonly called the 5.0 or 302ci) - 96 and earlier - This is the same 302 we find in Mustangs and Explorers as well as a dozen other vehicles. Cheap and easy to work on, ok fuel economy, lots of aftermarket support, but generally considered a little underpowered for the vans as the low end torque is lacking compared to other options.

5.8 V8 (Windsor 351ci) - 96 and earlier - Gobs of torque and pretty darn reliable. Fuel injected models deliver reasonable fuel economy. Valve cover gaskets often develop leaks.

7.5L v8 (Lima 460ci) - 96 and earlier - One of the last gas motors produced that can tow a house. They will run forever but pretty much max our at 12mpg and commonly return 8-10mpg.

Now, onto the 97 and later Ford Modular (Triton) motors which have some pretty serious issues ...

For whatever reason, Ford decided to produce these motors with VERY few threads in the head for the spark plugs. Blowing a plug right out of the head is not unheard of. Furthermore, Ford used a 2 piece spark plug design that is well known for breaking off in the head when you try to remove them, disabling the vehicle. It is so common that a special tool is made for removing the bottom section after it breaks off. Replace these plugs ONLY with aftermarket 1 piece plugs. Also, 97-01 motors have a common failure of the plastic intake manifolds where they crack and dump coolant (thankfully, most vehicles on the road today have already had the manifold replaced by Ford).

4.2L v6 (Essex) - This is the smallest and lightest duty motor available. Not a bad motor but too underpowered for a big van loaded with stuff. Fuel economy will suffer greatly in a laden vandweller setup.

4.6L v8 (Triton) - This is the same motor found in everything from later Mustangs to Lincoln TownCars. A good compromise between power and fuel efficiency so long as your setup isn't super heavy.

5.4L v8 (Triton) - Most common motor to find in the full size vans but WILL suffer from the above mentioned issues. Good power and fuel economy for its size.

6.8L v10 (Triton) - This is the big monster gas offering. If you're not towing just avoid it. Fuel economy is abysmal and it has the same problems noted before.

Other - Expect to replace fuel pumps and starters often (Especially on older models). Power steering setups tend to make a lot of noise but they last if you avoid cranking the wheel all the way until it stops and turning the wheel when sitting still. Ancillary equipment (AC, alternators, etc) typically hold up well.

In summary ... Older is better because you avoid the Triton motors, while newer motors have issues they can be addressed (though it may be labor intensive), transmissions hold up well with regular interval synthetic fluid changes. If issues are addressed ahead of time and they are maintained properly they can easily be the longest living vans of the Big 3. I rank it #2 on the list.

So what about newer Ford vans.... say 2011 to 2015? Same issues?
 
Gideon33w said:
Lastly, lets see how the General Motors products hold up.

... 

Motors - For all years concerned here we are talking about variations of the 350ci v8 (5.7) and the 305 v8. Even the 4.3L v6 Vortec is a 350 with two cylinders cut off. I will make this section quick because there are only a few things you need to know. The 305 sucks, the 4.3 is the best v6 of the Big 3 (but may still be too low powered for really heavy vans), and the 350 is what you want. Now, the 350 has a ton of variations and is the GM workhorse for a good reason. The only glaring flaw with the 350 is that the L31 variant (found in 96-02) has a major issue with the intake manifold gasket. They are plastic and fail predicability. A failed gasket will dump coolant outside the motor and must be addressed soon ... or ... it will dump coolant inside the motor and you're screwed. There are aftermarket gaskets available which completely fix the issue. Do not wait until a failure. Just replace the gasket now and eat the cost. An internal leak has a high likelihood of compelling your connecting rods to exit the block at high velocity. Fix it now and you can rely on the motor for ages.

Why exactly does the 305 suck? Would you not recommend buying a 2000 GMC Savana with a 5.0L V8 (305) in it? What are the tradeoffs of a 305 vs a 350 V8? Looked around quite a bit but couldn't find much info that related to building out a conversion. I'm not planning on trailing anything.
 
the 305 is looked down upon because it is an underpowered smog engine. highdesertranger
 
Really helpful info.  Thanks for such good job.  I hope to be a proud van owner soon.  Not too old of one, but sadly, not brand new either.  Happy trails to you and thank you, again.
 
Canine said:
The brake fluid also doesn't need to be completely drained. I don't drain the whole system including the lines. I suck out the brake fluid reservoir and replace it with new every once in a while.
Sir, Brake fluid should be changed completely periodically as it is hygroscopic (attracts moisture). It could cause internal corrosion issues and also cause the fluid to boil at high temps from braking thus leading to brake fade & failure. I would recommend at least once a year to keep the system in good shape. Also if you cannot see through it to the bottom of your master cylinder reservoir then it certainly needs a full replacement.
 
Hi,

Is anyone able to compare the Nissan NV 2500/3500 with the big three, most common vans?  I know this can be a sensitive subject, and I share this information respectfully.  My current vehicle is a 2004 Honda Element with 225,000 miles and going strong.  My previous vehicle was a 1999 Toyota Rav4 which was still going strong at 445,000 miles.  Neither ever needed any major repair other than usual wear and tear.  The RAV did go through 3 timing belts and water pumps, but I think that was to be expected. I would love to have a Toyota Acer but they aren't available in the US or Canada.  

I am not mechanically inclined in any way, and reliability is more important to me than anything else.  I'm able to afford a 2012-2013 model year.  Do any of you have experience with the Nissan NV?  

Thanks.
 
I noticed no post in this section for a couple of years so I'll add my 2 cents worth.

Most older Dodges have a check valve in the trans line near the radiator. I have seen newly rebuilt trans destroyed because the valve was clogged. Most trans builders I know say to get rid of the valve and put in a good external cooler. Most older guys will remember old Mopars taking a few seconds to take gear first thing in the morning because fluid would drain back so we get a check valve.

Next on Dodges 318 or 360 be sure to keep the oil changed! They are great motors but have a habit to clog the oil screen if you are lax on oil changes.

I work on a lot of Dodges and Jeeps so will try to think of common problems. Late 90-early 00 get a lot of computer problems, sometimes they stop running and then start later or you jiggle the wires and they will start. The problem is connections on the circuit board. Also one more small problem is heater blower motor not working, look at the resistor connector because it may have melted from poor connection. They sell new connectors and resistors at most part stores.
 
Fubble said:
Great info.  No write up for Chevy Vans?
I'm a "bow tie" gal.  I would gladly tell more than you probably want to hear about a '96 1500 5.7L 350.  Do you have specific questions?
 
Thanks.  I'm likely buying a Chevy Express between 2002-2010.  I'd like to know what issues to watch out for, transmission reliability, if there are engine variations that are better than others (reliability and mileage), preventative maintenance, etc
 
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