ideas for mounting 285 Watt panel on my ladder racks

[Seeker]

I am needing advice for mounting solar panel on my racks.  I have 3 of these Crosstread racks http://www.realtruck.com/cross-tread-van-racks/R181382P2006Y2658MA.html

I have a Mazzfan vent installed in the far rear of my van and will put the panel just in front of that.

1.  Looking for ideas of how to mount with ability to tilt on both sides.  Hopefully something I can put together easily from local hardware but could purchase a readymade mount to make it easier if not too expensive.

2.  Do I need to cut the protruding tops from the middle rack to prevent shading?

These questions have probably been answered previously but looking through several pages last night did not really find much.  I will run some 2 x2's or something down the sides to help disguise the panel.
A SEEKER

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Any shading would be bad.  Why not attach a couple of long 2x4s to the rack and mount the solar panel on top of them?

You could take it a step farther, use sheets of plywood on the2x4s with the panel above that and the shade would keep your van cooler in the hot sun.

A M Solar (Google them) make a nice tilting panel set up.  If you don't buy theirs, it will give you some ideas for making your own.

Regards
John

 

[MikeRuth]

I have a similar rack, just two crossbars. My thoughts keep changing but I seem to want to build a low profile box for the panels so that at first and even a longer glance no one would notice the panels inside. Secondly I have been investigating 12 Volt Linear Actuators. Th panels would be recessed in the box and then when I want to tilt them for a better angle just hit the switch and raise them up. Were not talking a lot of weight, maybe 60 lbs, easy peasy for most actuators. Certainly they could be manually raised but I'm not in favor of getting a ladder out, nor do I know if I'll have one. I've been keeping my eyes out for something super light weight maybe in the 4' size that would also not take up to much room to store. As we all know storage room and access is a tough combo.

I just ordered my panels and CC, still waiting for delivery, so I haven't really began engineering anything just yet. \\

Mike R

 

[akrvbob]

There is very little issue with shading from the rack. Go out and take a look how low the sun has to be in order to put any shade on the rack. It's so low that by then you're getting almost no power from it at any rate. I have mine on a ladder rack and the uprights are not a problem for shading except early in the morning and late in the afternoon.

Those are wide panels so you'll need to run it fore and aft and you'll have about a foot on either side to center it in. I have a friend who has a panel almost that big and he has it on a ladder rack and built a tilting mechanism out of stuff from the local Ace. It's not hard at all. I'll try to get some pictures and post them for you.
Bob

 

[Seeker]

There is very little issue with shading from the rack. Go out and take a look how low the sun has to be in order to put any shade on the rack. It's so low that by then you're getting almost no power from it at any rate. I have mine on a ladder rack and the uprights are not a problem for shading except early in the morning and late in the afternoon.

Those are wide panels so you'll need to run it fore and aft and you'll have about a foot on either side to center it in. I have a friend who has a panel almost that big and he has it on a ladder rack and built a tilting mechanism out of stuff from the local Ace. It's not hard at all. I'll try to get some pictures and post them for you.
Bob

Pictures would be great.  More wattage would have been great but this panel is around 65 inches and about as long as I can go.

That's good news about the shade not being a problem as I don't want to butcher a rack if it is not a problem. 

 

[highdesertranger]

I would tie the individual cross bars together to take the stress off the panel frames. maybe aluminum angle. then attach your tilting mechanism to the angle. highdesertranger

 

[Seeker]

After many trips to different hardware stores and stressing my brain (kinda cloudy brain now days) to the max this is what I came up with to mount my panel.  I mounted 1 inch square aluminum tube to the underside of my panel.  I have 3 cargo racks and the middle one is higher than the other 2 so I could not just lay the square tube flat and just bolt them down.

After not finding anything in different stores to help attach the square tube a really nice guy at B and B trailers in St. Augustine cut me a couple pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum angle pieces and gave them to me no charge.  I was going to use them to attach the rear and bolt the front direct to the cargo rack.  When I got the panel up top and measured that was not going to work as the panel would have tilted too far down in the front.  I went back to B & B and got 2 more pieces of angle cut.  These were free also can't beet free!

I mounted the rear 2 first and then marked the front square tube to be drilled.  There was not room to drill the front so I had to take the rear mounts loose that I had just installed and that is where my biggest problem started.

I guess I really cranked down the 5/16 stainless bolts more than needed but I didn't want the panel coming off with the forces of travel.  When I tried taking the bolts loose they got tighter and tighter and seized up tight.  Ended up getting a MAPP gas torch heating and one bolt broke so it is loose.  It got dark on me before I could get the other bolt out and that is why the bungee cords in case of wind over night.  As soon as it warms up I will just grind the other bolt off.

I don't know much about this kind of stuff.  I this a problem 2with stainless bolts that can happen seizing like this?  Only seized on the one side the other side came loose no problem.

The first picture is the remaining seized bolt.  Other pics are how I am mounting the panel.  Do you think this will strong enough to hold the panel?
A SEEKER

 

[MikeRuth]

After many trips to different hardware stores and stressing my brain (kinda cloudy brain now days) to the max this is what I came up with to mount my panel.  I mounted 1 inch square aluminum tube to the underside of my panel.  I have 3 cargo racks and the middle one is higher than the other 2 so I could not just lay the square tube flat and just bolt them down.

After not finding anything in different stores to help attach the square tube a really nice guy at B and B trailers in St. Augustine cut me a couple pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum angle pieces and gave them to me no charge.  I was going to use them to attach the rear and bolt the front direct to the cargo rack.  When I got the panel up top and measured that was not going to work as the panel would have tilted too far down in the front.  I went back to B & B and got 2 more pieces of angle cut.  These were free also can't beet free!

I mounted the rear 2 first and then marked the front square tube to be drilled.  There was not room to drill the front so I had to take the rear mounts loose that I had just installed and that is where my biggest problem started.

I guess I really cranked down the 5/16 stainless bolts more than needed but I didn't want the panel coming off with the forces of travel.  When I tried taking the bolts loose they got tighter and tighter and seized up tight.  Ended up getting a MAPP gas torch heating and one bolt broke so it is loose.  It got dark on me before I could get the other bolt out and that is why the bungee cords in case of wind over night.  As soon as it warms up I will just grind the other bolt off.

I don't know much about this kind of stuff.  I this a problem 2with stainless bolts that can happen seizing like this?  Only seized on the one side the other side came loose no problem.

The first picture is the remaining seized bolt.  Other pics are how I am mounting the panel.  Do you think this will strong enough to hold the panel?
A SEEKER

Indeed Stainless hardware is prone to galling. Lubricate the threads lightly and that won't happen and don't over torque them. Now there's only one way to properly tighten a bolt to it's ratings and that's to use a torque wrench. But most wrenchers have learned how to get real close without damaging an assembly. I've been wrenching all my life so unless what I'm working on requires a specific torque then I don't use a torque wrench. 

You have two things against you here, no lube and over torquing. Essentially you have cold welded the two pieces together. Heat might help. I would probably grab a grinder and just grind off the head. All depends on the access. 

Lightly lube the threads using what ever you have handy. I generally prefer to use some form of grease. But PTFE based products are recommended. 
Want to know more? here's a good little fact sheet from fastenal. 
A good snug tightening should do ya! Remember it's not going on the space shuttle and  after you do complete the job, just check these fasteners occasionally after travel and you will know if they are holding ok. 

Mike R

 

[LeeRevell]

Excellent article on galling, Mike! Thanks, I copied it to my RV archives.

 

[Seeker]

Panel finally installed.  Took it out for a ride and it stayed on so far up to 65 MPH.  Now for the wiring. . . questions to follow.
A SEEKER

 

[highdesertranger]

looking good. yep gotta watch out for those stainless fasters, especially the nylocks. highdesertranger

 

[MikeRuth]

Good job.
Honestly I don't know whats best but I used a 3/4" aluminum LB.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-4-in-Rigid-Type-LB-Threaded-Aluminum-Conduit-Body-58607/100146504

worked for me just fine.

 

[Seeker]

Good job.
Honestly I don't know whats best but I used a 3/4" aluminum LB.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-4-in-Rigid-Type-LB-Threaded-Aluminum-Conduit-Body-58607/100146504

worked for me just fine.

I may use one of these as it looks like a great use.  What size hole saw did you use maybe 3/4?

Also how will you seal up the end wiring enters the box?
A SEEKER