I want to make sure I have this correct.

[chris84]

I might consider these over ampere time

https://www.sokbattery.com/

I would be afraid of support with ampere time.

200AH is a good size for most people, but knowing your anticipated usage is the way to best size the system.

 

[Markw]

Hmmm...the SOK batteries are looking pretty good...if a bit more pricey than the ampere time...make no mistake, I am willing to pay a bit more for better quality and good customer service if I can afford it.

For the moment, though, this is all theoretical on my end.

As I stated in the OP, I am currently staying in a homeless shelter...which means nowhere to store the items I plan to have with me.  My first order of business will be to save up and purchase a vehicle (was recently approved for SSDI so this part will take me a few months).

My line of thinking with this thread is to work out the electrical system plans so when I am at the point of setting it up I know more or less exactly what I need (I am slowly building a list on Amazon of the items I plan to build the system with).  Whether I buy the exact items on the Amazon list or not...the list itself will ensure I don't forget any pieces.

 

[wayne49]

I would be afraid of support with ampere time.

Why is that? Do you have any references regarding specific Ampere Time support issues?

 

[NctryBen]

Kinda new at the solar/battery deal myself. I’m starting out just getting minimal 12 volt with no real plans for an inverter. I have the roof vent fan, the 3.3 cu ft compressor fridge, some 12 v lights, my diesel heater and usb charging plug. Oh, and a 12 v TV. 200amp hr of lithium batteries and an mppt charge controller. I got a cheap suitcase solar panel that keeps the batteries at 100% on even cloudy days. Once down there I’ll get some good solar panels installed. But I feel that I need to get more familiarized with the whole deal before I go inverter and running ac current. Even my laptop. I have a smaller 500 watt inverter that runs the laptop fine. But I’m not a gamer...
Glad your making use of programs that get you into a home... even if it’s on wheels for now.

 

[MGfromBC]

Here's support of earlier comments about the difficulty using electricity to heat things, things like coffee makers.

I made some choices and did some math and I went with a small, 12 volt, 1 cup, drip coffee maker. It takes 15 minutes and draws about 10 amps. If I want more than 1 cup of coffee per day during a series of low solar, rainy days, I will be eating non-cooked meals during those days.

This choice allow me to have enough electricity to run lights, computer and other things.

I made this choice. I'm in an SUV and I'd rather heat things with electricity, especially when the weather is bad, instead of lighting up a propane stove in the back seat. I also have a tiny Crock Pot that only uses 35 watts but takes 3 hours to make a meal. Since the outside of it gets hot, I will be wrapping it in insulation soon.

When it fits my schedule I set up the coffee and cooker and start driving. With a brief stop for coffee and a longer stop for lunch, I arrive at my destination with a charged battery (alternator), an alert mind and a full stomach.

Heating anything with electricity takes a lot of electricity and you really need to consider what's important.

MG

 

[Markw]

Thanks MGfromBC.

I do intend to have a coffee pot, but have pretty much decided to opt for a percolator I can use on a butane stove.

As for cooking, this will also be done on the butane stove.

That leaves (so far) just the cell phone, hotspot, fan, lights and laptop for the electrical system.

 

[gtinseth]

The Instant pot and the coffee pot are the worrisome devices because they are AC and high amp needs. With only 100 or 200 watts solar and 200 ah battery, you might need a DC/DC charger that uses your alternator while driving, especially if you hit a cloudy patch, which you will. Other options are to plug into the utilities and get a shore charger, or carry a small generator.

You really need to do the math and figure how many amps each thing will use each day, based on your estimated time of use. Then figure out how to put that many amps back into your batteries every day. Also, try to run the big loads when the sun is shining and the solar panels are pumping.

 

[Markw]

Hoping you guys can help me.  I remember seeing in a video a few weeks ago someone using a type of plug-in in place of the 'cigarette lighter' type plug.

  If I am remembering right the plug looked similar to the plugs on the meter end of the probes for volt meters.  They were kind of squarish and maybe 1/4 -1/3" across.  They also separate the + and - into separate plugs.

  In the video they were discussing the pitfalls of the cigarette lighter type plugs (they get hot, they pop out because of the spring loaded nib at the end etc).

  I am wanting to use those but I can't remember what they are called.

 

[Weight]

Anderson connectors?
There are heavy duty cigarette type plugs such as Blue Sea. But they are rated at 15 ampere, https://www.bluesea.com/products/1011/Dash_Socket_12V_DC_with_Watertight_Cap and the plug https://www.bluesea.com/products/1010/12_Volt_Plug they have a twist lock feature.

 

[Markw]

It's similar to the one in this video, but the connectors are separate, not one piece.

 

[highdesertranger]

Those are Anderson Power Pole connectors in the video. The person in the video calls them something else. Dang how can you even watch that video with the shaking camera and all?

Highdesertranger

 

[Markw]

HDR: I actually only watched a couple minutes of it to see the connectors. I could probably wire those like the ones I was talking about come to think of it.

 

[tx2sturgis]

That explainer video is an example of how NOT to do an explainer video.

But yes, those are Anderson connectors, invented in the 1950's and 1960's by Anderson Power Products. 

There are lots of imitators and various brands, but the name Anderson Power Poles is what most of us call them.

 

[Markw]

Thanks tx2sturgis.

 

[Markw]

Ok, after advice and doing some research I have altered my proposed setup, but have a few questions.

  I realize much depends on my needs based on what I plan on using, which haven't really changed since the OP except for the instant pot and electric coffee pot have been changed to non-electric methods (likely a pour-over coffee maker and just regular cooking using butane).

  In general, will a 200w panel fit on the roof of a minivan?  If so I will likely have a 200w on the roof and a 100w - 200w foldable.  So 300-400 watts of solar.

  I'm fine if it takes adding a ladder rack to get it to fit as I am not that concerned with stealth (plan to be mostly boondocking).

  Assuming that panel setup and 2 x 100ah LifePo4 batteries, what size MPPT controller would be best?  If I want a buffer for 3 or 4 days of rain should I consider a third 100ah battery?

  Sorry to be asking so many questions...but this, more than anything else, I want to make sure I get it right.

 

[XERTYX]

In general, will a 200w panel fit on the roof of a minivan?  

Of course it would depend but generally speaking I'd say definitely. I have 2 100 watt panels on the roof of my Dodge Caravan installed long ways. 

Not so much to be stealthy, more so to not have anyone get curious as to how easily removable they might be.

If I went cross wise I could probably fit 4 100 watt panels. Maybe even 2 250 watt panels but the engineering would be a little trickier to attach them to the roof rack I would think.

If you can get quality used panels from santan solar or a similar place that's what I would do. Mine are from amazon. A 2 pack of rich solar panels that were $178ish I believe. Those would be my second choice only because shipping large panels via freight would have cost me about $400+ from santan in AZ to where I am in GA.

 

[Scorpion Regent]

Delete the electrically powered heating appliances!

Delete the instant pot and the coffee pot, and you have a fighting chance with a 200 watt (split portable and roof) system powering a laptop all day and the other stuff intermittently. 

If you deplete the battery down with an electric coffee pot and/or an insta-pot, your system will be falling flat in the first 2 weeks.

All is not lost, they have this compact, inexpensive energy source, called 'propane'...maybe you've heard of it?

Buy a little campstove or single burner stove and cook your coffee and meals on that. They work.

If you do that one thing, your solar and batteries and laptop and hotspot and cell phone and LEDs all together put will very little strain on your system....and it should be able to survive even dark cold rainy days in winter.

Now if you had 500 watts of solar, that can all face the sun even in the low sun angles of winter time, you could make the electric powered cooking a reality.

But your system will be lucky to put out 50-100 watts in winter. That's just not enough to sustain frequent electric-powered brewing/cooking.

Yeah, exactly right.

 

[Scorpion Regent]

Hmmm...looking on Amazon it seems like the only 800 watt inverters I can find are brands I've never heard of (although I have only looked at pure sine inverters...which is what I want).

  I may need to go with a 1000 watt.  Currently thinking Renogy or Xantrex (thanks, Bob!) since it's at least a company I have heard of.  I mean, obviously I have heard of like Energizer and Duracell but I don't want to buy an inverter just to check it off the list.

Thoughts?

Cammalu: thanks for the heads up!  Do they do installs?

Try to run as much as possible off of DC12V.  Inverters use power just converting to 12V DC to 110AC.  You would rather use butane than propane.  The reason propane is so popular is that it is a better buy.  Considering that you are pushing limits, I would give some big think time to what you need vs. what you want.  Everything I am reading gives me the impression that what you really want is a full sized RV.  Budget your expectations.

 

[Markw]

Try to run as much as possible off of DC12V.  Inverters use power just converting to 12V DC to 110AC.  You would rather use butane than propane.  The reason propane is so popular is that it is a better buy.  Considering that you are pushing limits, I would give some big think time to what you need vs. what you want.  Everything I am reading gives me the impression that what you really want is a full sized RV.  Budget your expectations.

  I don't have expectations at this point, I am simply trying to work out the best way to do things.  To this end, I am asking questions and putting forth possible scenarios...then adjusting my plans according to feedback (for instance, I dropped the electric coffee maker and instant pot based on advice about heating with electric).

  I am not on the road yet, but will be in several months.  So at this point everything is theoretical and subject to change.  I am, however, making purchase plans for when I do hit the road.  In other words, I am doing some research so I don't hit the road not knowing anything.

That being said, thank you for the advice of using 12v as much as possible.  That does, however, bring up a question.

I know cell phones can be, and are, charged using 12v all the time...but do you know of a 12v adapter I can use for my laptop?  Sincerely asking here because the more I can use 12v the less inverter I need which will save me some money.

  Currently, the only thing I can think of that I would need 120 for is my laptop.  Lights, cell phone and fridge can all obviously be run on a 12v system.  If I can get a 12v adapter for my laptop I may not even need an inverter.

 

[B and C]

I charge my laptop off a "car charger". That is the key words when doing a search. You just need your laptop make, model and car charger as search terms.