I need help with my 12 volt timer please

[She_websitetoolbox_import3114]

I am ready to pull my hair out getting the help I need. I have a 12 volt timer that needs to be connected to my RV fridge. I keep getting help on how to connect the wires to the the timer. That is <strong>NOT</strong> the help I need. I need step by step instructions on how to actually get the tabs onto the wires. In other words.....how to prepare them. Which tabs I need and anything else I need. I have a wire cutter/stripper,the wires are bought already.&nbsp;<br><br><br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F3S/4W7I/HH2VZGHM/F3S4W7IHH2VZGHM.LARGE.jpg" class="bbc_img"><img rel="lightbox" src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31PczEL4WyL.jpg" class="bbc_img">

 

[blars]

The timer you have pictured is powered off of 24 VAC, typical for sprinkeler timers.&nbsp; The switch is AC rated only, and may be electronic and not work on DC or could have early contact failure.<br><br>You need a crimp tool and connectors, available at harbor freight, auto parts stores, or walmart auto electric section.&nbsp;

 

[She_websitetoolbox_import3114]

I was told to get this one! OK Not happy about this at all. I do have a crimp tool and connectors.

 

[offroad]

how to do it right<br><br>

 

[She_websitetoolbox_import3114]

Thank you Offroad,that was very helpful!&nbsp;<img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">

 

[She_websitetoolbox_import3114]

<span style="line-height: 18.18181800842285px;">

The timer you have pictured is powered off of 24 VAC, typical for sprinkeler timers. &nbsp;The switch is AC rated only, and may be electronic and not work on DC or could have early contact failure.

<br><br>Just wanted to mention this was the picture that Amazon showed on there site when I placed it here. My friend who suggested this says the&nbsp;description quoted 12vdc not 24Vac. So I checked and he was right!!&nbsp;</span>

 

[wrcsixeight]

24 volt timer= problem.<br><br>Absorption fridge on 12v only=problem<br>Artificially reduced duty cycle on Absorption fridge in summertime = spoiled food.<br><br> Typically absorption fridges run on 12volts pull minimum of 8 amps, 100% of the time, and still perform worse than on propane or 120vAC. The 12volt option is there for when driving and the alternator can provide the power required. &nbsp;I highly doubt an absorption fridge run on 12 voltsDC can even hold the interior temps below 40f in the summer, and no way could it bring warmer contents below 40f before it depleted a bank of batteries.<br><br>Limiting the time at which the fridge is provided 12 volts is no answer to the huge drain on the batteries.<br><br>The money you save by trying to make an inexpensively purchased absorption fridge run on 12 volts DC only will be quickly eaten up by battery replacement costs and spoiled food, as well as the emotional stresses involved.<br><br>Plumb it for propane, or get a compressor fridge.<br><br>You will regret pursuing this 12 volt absorption fridge idea.<br><br>Sorry to be so negative, but you are trying to climb an electrified barbed wire tree.<br><br><br>

 

[She_websitetoolbox_import3114]

I am only running it occasionally. It will mostly be run as a cooler with ice. Most of my food will be bought at a store daily. I am job camping so I can do that. This is just for my days off when sometimes I just want to stay in. Not a everyday thing. Thanks for your input though as i learned something new today. 24 volt...... please read the above post.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Ok<br><br>Well know most RV'ers with absorption fridges generally turn them on 24 hours before needing them, and are running them on 120vac or propane, and then load them with already cooled foodstuffs, as the absorption process removes the heat from items placed within very very slowly.<br><br>Most of these who do run the fridge on 12vdc while driving find the interior fridge temps climb during travel as the 12 volt element is just not upto the task of properly circulating the refrigerant, compared to an open flame or a 120vac powered heating element.<br><br>Many who leave the fridge on 12 volt while stopping for just a few hours come back to find the low battery light flashing.<br><br>Your best advantage over most absorption fridges is the chest type design you can add ice into it, but an extreme cooler likely would keep the ice for longer.<br><br><br><br>I would never subject my batteries to an absorption fridge run only on 12vDC, even with 200 watts of solar on my roof<br><br>I would not expend any effort in trying to put it on a timer. &nbsp;It will perform badly, and still chew up your battery.<br><br>Best of luck to you

 

[She_websitetoolbox_import3114]

OKKKkkk! Something to think about. I may just do that and get a extreme cooler. Thanks for your input. I can't afford a compressor fridge right now....but I can wish!

 

[highdesertranger]

why don't you run it on propane?&nbsp; absorption&nbsp; refers are very slow to cool down like wrc68 said they are meant to be turned on a left on.&nbsp; if you have access to frozen water jugs you can put those inside this helps tremendously.&nbsp; highdesertranger

 

[She_websitetoolbox_import3114]

I need stealth so no I can't use propane/ no to the second too. Nobody really knows what I am doing.

 

[wrcsixeight]

It is a shame that 12v compressor fridges are so expensive. &nbsp;I try to justify the expense as it generally pays for itself within a year and a half of buying block ice every 5 days or much less, depending on how you do the math.<br><br>Unless you drive a bunch too, then you need solar to keep the battery from discharging too far.<br><br>Absorption fridges need to be properly ventilated so byproducts from combustion do not enter the living space, and this I assume where the stealth concerns come in, as cutting holes in the side of the van to ventilate a propane fridge is the opposite of true campervan/vandweller stealth.<br><br>Perhaps options exist to pull fresh air in from below the van and a dedicated low profile exhaust could be added to the roof, or some other method of safely exhausting the byproducts of combustion.<br><br>Not sure how this could be accomplished, or if it is worth the effort to you, but the absorption fridge on 12v, on a timer to reduce battery consumption definitely Is not worth the effort. &nbsp;

 

[Noah]

<P>"Nobody really knows what I am doing."<BR><BR>I mean no harm or desrespect with my next comment, but it would seem to me that nobody is giving you the answer you are wanting to hear...<BR><BR>What you are looking to do is simply unreasonable based on the experiences of many on this forum. Some of us have learned the hard way, and it sounds like you will too.&nbsp; A good way to&nbsp;empty your wallet&nbsp;is running your batteries down too quickly or too much.&nbsp; After replacing your battery, you may wish you had saved that money for a better fridge, or you may decide that ice is a simple and managable solution for you.<BR><BR>If it were me, I would just stick with the ice in a decent cooler. It's easy to make a block of ice last several days by getting a well insulated cooler, strategically placing it in a cooler spot in your rig, and&nbsp;keeping it closed as much as possible.<BR><BR>Again, I do not mean to offend, I just want to say that we are here to help, we understand your intentions, and we will give the most accurate information we can without sugar-coating it.<BR><BR>-Noah</P>

 

[Lostinspace]

I guess I'll put my 2 bits in.<br><br>Back when I had&nbsp;a 'Love Bug" in the mid seventies, a fibre glass 12' trailer, I used dry ice in the Frig.&nbsp; It had a tray for ice (dry or wet), but had a door which lets the cold air fall out.&nbsp; Also there is no water to worry about cleaning up, it gets colder so you can freeze stuff placed next to the ice and place &gt; 32 degree stuff above.&nbsp; This works best with a chest type cooler.&nbsp; Most grocery stores should have dry ice as well as ice companies.&nbsp; in Florida a lot of the Publix grocery stores carry dry ice.&nbsp; <br><br>So with a 'good' chest cooler you should get a long time on dry ice.&nbsp; Also insulate the outside of the cooler too with bubble wrap and a blanket.<br><br>You could always build your own cooler using closed cell foam, 2" thick or thicker, and form it with 1/4" luan.&nbsp; You could even build it in.&nbsp; Be sure to put a 1/4" drain in&nbsp;it to take care of water if you can't find dry ice.&nbsp; This can be done cheaply, much less than the fancy coolers.<br><br>Also block water ice will keep longer than the crushed stuff you can get everywhere.<br><br>Hope this helps, at least you can throw it into the mix.&nbsp; <br><br>

 

[highdesertranger]

she, &nbsp;you are right when you say we don't understand.&nbsp; why is running your fridge off propane not stealth.&nbsp; if could explain this it might help.&nbsp; I believe everyone her is just trying to help you with their own experience.&nbsp; highdesertranger

 

[caseyc]

How about this Dometic fridge that can run off 12 volt? I have this same fridge from Camping World, it's currently on sale for $600.&nbsp;This sucker gets cold quickly, and it fits pretty well behind my driver seat. Alas, it doesn't run on propane, but that hasn't been a problem for me. I simply plug this fridge into one of my 12 volt adapters connected to my auxillary battery.<a href="http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/dometic-portable-refrigeratorfreezer/49355" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><br><br>http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/dometic-portable-refrigeratorfreezer/49355<br><br></a>