How to mount solar panel to top of Thule rooftop cargo box?

[magentawave]

I need to mount a 90 watt 58” long x 13.5” wide Zamp rigid solar panel on to the top of my Thule rooftop cargo box. 

There is a curve along the top of the box where the panel will be mounted which would make the front and back of the 58” long panel be about 1.5” above the box.

The curve along the 13.5” width of the panel will make each side of the panel be about 1/4” above the box.

[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]The cargo box is made out of ABS. [/font]

[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Got any ideas for how I could mount this on to the top of the box? I could use bolts, nuts and washers to attach and level it out on the box but what could I use to insure the box won’t leak at the 4 points I drill holes for the bolts?[/font]

[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Thanks?[/font]

 

[nature lover]

Hello there I wish I could help but I can’t. Hold on a few minutes/hours somebody will answer your question shortly. I am positive of that

 

[Scott3569]

Basic parts list ( I am sure I will miss something)
Local hardware in my opinion go to ace or similar

The have square aluminum tubing
You will want this it is about 1/5 square
Decide orientation of the tubing to attach the tubing
I would use Ubolts..

You can also find bolts that have a flat head on them normally they are HEX driven

A very good silicone adhesive will be needed because you will need to drill holes the the top of the thule carrier

Make sure the bar placement will align with mounting points on the panel.. if needed they have angle iron you could use. Aluminum angle iron is easy to drill..

THIS IS ONLY A BASIC IDEA.. BECAUSE I HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT DOING THIS ALSO.. AND THIS WOULD BE THE WAY I WOULD DO IT.. BUT I AM PROBABLY MISSING SOMETHING

 

[Scott3569]

You may also need consider the weight of the panel.. the hinges and hardware on the carrier do have limits

 

[tx2sturgis]

The Thule is probably not designed to carry a load on top of it, and the vibrations and 'pull' from a good sized panel mounted on it will probably crack the plastic, especially around the holes you drill.

Not to mention that the panel will add aerodynamic drag and probably, vibration or rattling type noise.

 

[DLTooley]

I'll second the no, the aerodynamics of the rigid panel could rip the entire top of the Thule off - in addition to the other risks.

This might be a reasonable place to try a newer flexible panel. SUPPOSEDLY they've gotten better, and I've seen prices under a $1 a watt.

 

[Scott3569]

I would agree also with the previous two people aerodynamic play a big part.. but it can still be solved with a
wind deflection on the front part

 

[magentawave]

Basic parts list ( I am sure I will miss something)
Local hardware in my opinion go to ace or similar

The have square aluminum tubing
You will want this it is about 1/5 square
Decide orientation of the tubing to attach the tubing
I would use Ubolts..

You can also find bolts that have a flat head on them normally they are HEX driven

A very good silicone adhesive will be needed because you will need to drill holes the the top of the thule carrier

Make sure the bar placement will align with mounting points on the panel.. if needed they have angle iron you could use. Aluminum angle iron is easy to drill..

THIS IS ONLY A BASIC IDEA.. BECAUSE I HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT DOING THIS ALSO.. AND THIS WOULD BE THE WAY I WOULD DO IT.. BUT I AM PROBABLY MISSING SOMETHING

Hmmm, square or rectangular aluminum tube across the front and back might be better for dampening vibration  than the bolts, multiple nuts and washers I was considering.

You may also need consider the weight of the panel.. the hinges and hardware on the carrier do have limits

The panel is only about 12 pounds.

The Thule is probably not designed to carry a load on top of it, and the vibrations and 'pull' from a good sized panel mounted on it will probably crack the plastic, especially around the holes you drill.

Not to mention that the panel will add aerodynamic drag and probably, vibration or rattling type noise.

I can make a deflector.

I'll second the no, the aerodynamics of the rigid panel could rip the entire top of the Thule off - in addition to the other risks.

This might be a reasonable place to try a newer flexible panel.  SUPPOSEDLY they've gotten better, and I've seen prices under a $1 a watt.

Surprisingly, the last time I checked a few months ago the only one that made panels this narrow (13.5”) was Zamp. Unfortunately they don’t make flexible panels.

 

[bullfrog]

Bad ides, don't do it. If nothing else you will spend too much time and money doing something the manufacturer will say not to do in my opinion and I'm the guy that does all the flaky stuff around here! Lol!!! Buy a roof rack and mount the Thule box and the solar panel to it if it absolutely needs to be done.

 

[magentawave]

Already have a roof rack with two 100 watt panels, the Thule box and space for surfboards. There’s no more room unless I utilize the top of the Thule box.

These people did it...

 

[bullfrog]

Watching these videos you will note they are all experiments some trying to decrease risk by using extra cables right? We all know results may vary. I can almost guarantee I can rip or break out most any mounting in thin unreinforced fiberglass, so I wouldn't do it or suggest any of my friends do it. You have some really good examples of a few people's experiments that worked for them, so far, if you are feeling lucky go for it! If it were me I would be building a second story on my metal rack and attaching it there. Hinge it so you can use it efficiently in winter and still get into the box.

 

[Scott3569]

Very well put, you are correct..

 

[magentawave]

I asked one of the guys that did that on YouTube today and he replied and three years later said: “Still perfect”

 

[kklowell]

Did you ask how he did it? Or how many highway miles he's done with it?

 

[highdesertranger]

Just because something "works perfect" for some time really doesn't mean a thing. For example just look at what's in the news currently. That condo complex in Florida was ok until it wasn't or how about Chernobyl how did that work out?

That first video is what I would say is bad advice. That panel is way to large for the box and brackets. The second video is the best, that's the way it should be done. I would never mount a rigid panel on one of those boxes.

Highdesertranger

 

[tx2sturgis]

In the list of videos presented by the OP...the first one (blue Honda Element) looks hazardous...I would not want to be behind that vehicle when the panel finally lets go!

Video number two provides no supporting 'evidence' that a rigid panel can be mounted because the video shows a flexible panel mounted on a cargo-box, and because the OP asked about rigid panels, not flexible panels.

Number three (SUV) shows a modest sized panel that looks to fairly well secured. I did not see anything that makes me think that configuration would not work well, if its done right, with that size panel, and on that kind of box.

 

[bullfrog]

I got a kick out of when the guy said he bought the box used and he wasn't worried about a few cracks in the bottom! Lol!!!

 

[tx2sturgis]

Which video was that in? I just skim thru the videos, stopping on the 'high points'...

 

[highdesertranger]

It was in the last video where he bought the carrier used. I discounted that one once he said that.

Didn't someone just post one of those carries that had solar built in from the factory?

Highdesertranger

 

[crofter]

Here is the yakima box at 36 watts its pricey.
-crofter

https://newatlas.com/automotive/yakima-cbx-solar-cargo-box/