How do I wire this A/V Meter inline With Renogy Panels?

[squid]

What is a "house panel inverter?"

Again, you really need to educate yourself a lot more, like the equivalent of a few college courses' worth, before spending a lot of money.

Best to start with a pair of Duracell GCs at $180 from Sam's Club

Just make sure all the other infrastructure, yes including chargers, have the necessary adjustability to be compatible if you decide to go with LFP later, or any other chemistry.

There are many ways to murder such a bank, and LFP systems being 7x to 20x the price of a lead bank, it is just too risky for you at this point in your learning curve.

You could of course pretend you have a nice big yacht, and get quotes from a real pro, say OceanPlanet, for a turnkey packaged system.

Just make sure you ask them to include some training in the package.

It's the inverter which converts 110V a/c to 12V dc to charge the house batteries, it's part of my circuit panel.  Whenever I plug the 110V exterior plug in to 110/120, there is a monitor over the stove vent which shows the batteries recharging from the house (i.e. inside the back end of the rv) panel (as in circuit panel) inverter, that's where it's located.
I also have a separate inverter, pure sine wave, I installed on my battery (I have 2 in parallel) to run a/c when dry camping, off the 12V batteries. I bought it at Harbor Freight.

 

[squid]

My friend has the Renogy charge controller manual, and so the answer is "NO" Renogy cannot support lithium batteries and "NO" you cannot hook them in parallel with lead-acid batteries, they can explode. So I'll have to diagnose why my two big 12V marines in parallel are so wimpy, or maybe just get 2 6V in series then put another set of that in parallel. Just want to get on the road again.

 

[squid]

What happens if one were to hook a lithium in parallel (or series) with lead-acid is that when the lead acids run down in voltage the lithiums start to charge them in an unregulated manner which, at the very least, screws up the batteries, and could quite possibly explode both sets.

The Renogy controllers do not have a "lithium friendly curve"; older units do not have this kind of curve because they are expecting Lead Acid.   The respective charging parameters are very different.

So even though lithium 12V have come way down in price, the other end (how to charge them, besides plugging in a charger) has not caught up to their widespread use.
Eventually they will, I predict.

 

[squid]

It's the inverter which converts 110V a/c to 12V dc to charge the house batteries, it's part of my circuit panel.  Whenever I plug the 110V exterior plug in to 110/120, there is a monitor over the stove vent which shows the batteries recharging from the house (i.e. inside the back end of the rv) panel (as in circuit panel) inverter, that's where it's located.
I also have a separate inverter, pure sine wave, I installed on my battery (I have 2 in parallel) to run a/c when dry camping, off the 12V batteries.  I bought it at Harbor Freight.

a/c=alternating current, not the air conditioner!

 

[Weight]

A few terms. Inverter changes Direct Current to Alternating Current. Usually 12 volts to 120 volts. Converter changes 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC. Used for charging, most often a dumb box that tends to over or under charge batteries, resulting in early death. There are combination inverter/converters. 12 volt marine batteries are not very good as deep cycle house banks. You would be well served to use EGC2 golf cart batteries from Duracell. Two in series would be 230 AH at 12 volts. I can also recommend a better controller. We get what we pay. Quality equipment is worth the extra money.

 

[squid]

A few terms. Inverter changes Direct Current to Alternating Current. Usually 12 volts to 120 volts. Converter changes 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC. Used for charging, most often a dumb box that tends to over or under charge batteries, resulting in early death. There are combination inverter/converters. 12 volt marine batteries are not very good as deep cycle house banks. You would be well served to use EGC2 golf cart batteries from Duracell. Two in series would be 230 AH at 12 volts. I can also recommend a better controller. We get what we pay. Quality equipment is worth the extra money.

That's the controller that came with the Renogy kit, btw.  In the box.  It's the 200W two-panel kit wired in parallel.  They warn against lithium battery use with this controller. 
They sell plug-in chargers for these 12V lithium batteries, it's a specific charge profile they require, just like the Ryobi has a special charger, you also couldn't use a trickle charger.  Whatever's charging it has to pour in more volts than the lithium or it tries to charge the charger (or battery connected to it) which is a disaster.  But they're not as expensive by far as they once were.
My batteries are Costco marine deep cell, nothing cheap, but they did go flat a few times and now they're pffft.  So I'll try the EGC2 golf cart 6V 2 in series to start.
The converter is integrated  into my panel, comes with the RV that way.

 

[John61CT]

OK, I consider the term "converter" to be equivalent to a **charger** for deep cycle usage, so far only come across it in a USian RV context, so I stick to the more universal "charger", noting as per SternWake, a high-end power supply can work very well as a charger if you are there to monitor it.

So squid, please note: an inverter has nothing to do with charging batteries.

There are "Combi" units that put inverter functionality in the same case as a charger, usually also include the transfer switch.

An LFP bank requires an adjustable charger, my recommendationis Sterling ProCharge Ultra or ProMariner Pronautic P; buy as big in amps as you're willing to spend.

That will run off a generator as well as shore power.

Do not buy any charge source based on it's being marketed as "LFP compatible" if the charge profile isn't user adjustable.

Good quality solar controllers are always adjustable in their setpoints.

If you drive many hours per day and want to modify your Alt setup for LFP, a Balmar MC-614 external regulator is required.

Or a DC-DC "Battery to Battery" charger, high-end recent models from Sterling or ProMariner will do, again, go big on the Amps, especially if not driving all day long.

There you go, enough to keep you going in your learning curve.

Again, if you DIY like this, get all your infrastructure set up to be "LFP ready", but **hold off** on buying that bank until you've learned a lot more, and practiced IRL using a cheap lead bank first, Duracell GC 6Vx2 from Sam's Club or Batteries+, only $180 per 200+AH pair.

 

[Weight]

Mostly what John said. EGC2 Duracell, 230 amp hour, $109 each.

 

[highdesertranger]

inverter takes 12VDC and inverts it to 120VAC.
converter takes 120VAC and converts it to 12VDC.

converters have a 12VDC power supply and a battery charger. most newer converters have some type of smart charger built in. stay away from the old type dumb converters these are the ones that kill your battery(s). there are retrofit converters available to upgrade the old style dumb charger to a new style smart charger. highdesertranger

 

[John61CT]

> EGC2 Duracell, 230 amp hour, $109 each.

Getting pricier? I saw at $89 maybe sic months ago.

If Trojan T-105s are within 20% more locally, I'd look at that instead. RE version, maybe within 50%.

 

[Weight]

GC2 are 215 amp hour and under $100. EGC2 are 230 amp hour and just over $100.

 

[squid]

Had to drill through roof to mount PT 2x4s to which to bolt mounting brackets for panels, then for wires, used lots of silicon, butyl, eternabond so no leaks.  Seems to be working fine.  Plan to sew and of course use computer on the road.  

The Amp/Volt meter has 3 thick wires, yellow, red, black and 2 thin wires red, black.  I assume
you'd put the thick yellow sensor+thick red+thin red into the (+) of the panels and the
thin black+thick black into the (-) of the panels (along with the solar panel
wires, of course).  Is this correct?

 

[rvpopeye]

With all wiring......never assume what a wire is.
Look it up. It might be the wire that releases the magic smoke if you don't !