HOT solar controller?

[speedhighway46]

I am in the design phase of the layout of my solar installation. My controller is a Renogy PMMT 30 amp unit. This controller is "enclosed" in a massive, finned aluminum heat sink.

Here's my question: under normal operating conditions, even when functioning at near maximum capacity, will this controller "get hot"? Does ventilation or air flow need to be provided to keep the controller in an acceptable temperature range?

In case it matters, my system is four 100 watt panels; 30 amp PMMT controller; four six volt flooded deep cycle golf cart batteries (wired 2x in series and then 2x in parallel); something around 400 amps total capacity.

Thanks for any comments.

 

[rvpopeye]

The fins are to keep it cool and are an important feature.
Running close to max input , a fan would help a lot . (I'd add one if it were mine.)
Maybe in winter conditions it will help keep you warn ?????

 

[BradKW]

My 60 amp never gets hot-hot which I attribute to the fins and not yet being enclosed. I believe that passive bottom to top ventilation will be fine, but reserving a spot for a little muffin fan if I feel it needs more once cabinet is done. The engineering types that manage to fit everything including an inverter into a shoebox always add fans...

 

[jimindenver]

yes keep it as cool as possible.

 

[speedhighway46]

Thanks you all; that answers my curiosity.

"It gets hot."

A muffin fan will now be part of the design criteria.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

Your controller supplier should tell you what clearances are necessary for air flow around the controller.  A fan is a good idea.

 -- Spiff

 

[Zizzer_Zazzer_Zuz]

Would this be a good use of the load terminals?

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[Zizzer_Zazzer_Zuz]

Grrr ... hit send early.

Common knowledge says "don't use the load terminals". I also hear people say things "or the run a couple little LED lights."

So if the panels generate enough current to make the CC hot there would be enough spare to run a small fan.



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[SternWake]

The airflow need not be a huge amount. The Noctua NF-f12 1200MM fan uses a miserly 0.05 amps, and comes with low noise adapters, which are inline reistors which slow fan more and reduce amp draw more.

Cool electronics are happy electronics. I exhaust my electrical cabinet, but I've never really felt my Bluesky Sb2512i's faceplate get warm, much less hot, but it is maxes out at about half of its 25 amp capacity with my 198 watts. I have seen brief edge of cloud events spike into the low 20's.

 

[Matlock]

^^ X2
A small, slow fan in warm/hot ambient temps is all your controller should need to be happy.
I'm pulling fresh (cooler) air from a hole in the floor through 2" PVC up to my CC MPPT (Midnight Kid) and out the side wall.
That + - 15* temp difference and a constant air movement kept it just-warm in 85 to 90* outside temps last summer.

 

[highdesertranger]

dang, I thought that by the title you were going to post pics of a sultry controller. highdesertranger

 

[Cammalu]

Too funny HDR!


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[BradKW]

[img=500x340]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/...71c1e16c9a29ef5f6c9dc21_zpsa041zwov.jpg[/img]

 

[BradKW]

 I have seen brief edge of cloud events spike into the low 20's.

What exactly is a cloud event, and what defines the edge?  

=D

 

[jimindenver]

Make sure the cabinet has ventilation or the fan will just be blowing hot air.

 

[highdesertranger]

Brad the cloud edge event is when on a scatted cloudy day. you know one of those days with large cumulus clouds rolling though and the sun gets blocked just long enough for your panels to cool off. then the cloud moves and within less than a second your panel goes from cool shade to full bright sunlight. your output will spike, many of these spikes are over the rated output of the panel, therefore could overload your controller. this effect seems to be multiplied at altitude. highdesertranger

 

[SternWake]

This time of year san Diego gets the marine layer generally called May grayor June gloom. When it starts burning off, if it does, around noon if it does, from inland towards the coast and the sun starts breaking out, Well even before the sun busts out completely, it will get super bright, and back in the day I used to run to my IPN pro remote and watch the total amperage spike.

Sometimes there is a prolonged period where I will see 16 to 17 amps, and then when full sun comes out and the panel heats up it will be back to 12.5 to 13 amps. It is not just the panel temperature, but sometimes the clouds seem to somehow magnify the light, or perhaps the sun hitting a thin layer of fog just overhead causes the extra solar wattage that exceeds the normal max output by a fair percentage

 

[caretaker]

we have an OUTBACK CC and it has a fan built in, and CC are packed with electronics and they last a lot longer the cooler they run.

 

[BradKW]

Here I thought I was being a smartass... instead, I learned me somthin'.

 

[speedhighway46]

Brad: it's amazing how you can improve your general knowledge by hanging out on CRVL!

But don't worry, those of us who have known you for awhile still consider you a smart ass; nothing lost!!!!!