HOLY HANNAH !!! A School Bus?

[LoupGarou]

Not all states are the same; http://www.ehow.com/how_6955279_title-bus-rv.html

In Missouri the RV conversion inspection is done by the State Highway Patrol. If it meets their guidelines, the paperwork gets forwarded to Jefferson City. A new vehicle ID number plate is issued and sent to the Highway Patrol inspection station and must be attached by them  Then you'll be sent a motorhome title referencing this number.

In an insurance companies eyes a bus is considerd a bus and an RV is considered an RV. Its the gray area called the conversion that they have problems with. They can't nail down a value on the build.

One can by a $2000 RV or a $200,000 RV, since the classification is complete and straight forward, one shouldn't have any problems getting insurance.

Another link; https://www.trustedchoice.com/rv-insurance/camper-rv-types/bus-conversion/

 

[ainley53]

I strongly suggest you use Terry's FB group (Skoolie Converters). He will ask you questions. He will expect you to have a little conversation with him without getting all pissy about it. THEN you will be approved to join. That means you get into a nice helpful group that is more interested in helping you make a good, safe conversion rather than just tearing your apart because you aren't doing things things their way. When someone in the group generally says you shouldn't do something, there is usually a very good reason as to why you shouldn't be doing it. And you will get booted if you are nasty to others. Skoolie.net has run off almost all the good converters and what is left will get you killed if you follow their advise. Particularly one will get you killed (and why the guy from www.noshockzone.org posts on a thread I started from time to time).

Note: before you implement any ideas, do your research and look at what the person giving you the nifty advise has for a conversion.

CompassRose, you're the perfect person to ask: My bus is 26 feet long and my trailer is 18'6" total, making me at least 45 feet total combined length (trailer hitch 6-12"). I don't plan to park at RV parks or campsites very often, but will this length be a problem? I've read that a lot of RV parks frown on bus conversions. They prefer those $500,000-$1 million dollar prefab rigs.

 

[ainley53]

I strongly suggest you use Terry's FB group (Skoolie Converters). He will ask you questions. He will expect you to have a little conversation with him without getting all pissy about it. THEN you will be approved to join. That means you get into a nice helpful group that is more interested in helping you make a good, safe conversion rather than just tearing your apart because you aren't doing things things their way. When someone in the group generally says you shouldn't do something, there is usually a very good reason as to why you shouldn't be doing it. And you will get booted if you are nasty to others. Skoolie.net has run off almost all the good converters and what is left will get you killed if you follow their advise. Particularly one will get you killed (and why the guy from www.noshockzone.org posts on a thread I started from time to time).

Note: before you implement any ideas, do your research and look at what the person giving you the nifty advise has for a conversion.

Okay, insurance. Just got an email from American Adventure Insurance: "We do not insure school bus conversions". Again, just looking for those with DEEP pockets and BIG $$$ RIGS. Who do you get insurance from? (please pardon the poor grammar).

The procedure in Texas is:

1. Get insurance. (This is proving to be a bit of a challenge)

2. Get vehicle inspected. Photo ID and proof of insurance required.

3. If you're planning to register the vehicle as something other than a bus then you must fill out form VTR-130U and apply for a new Texas title because (a) the vehicle was bought out of state and (b) you're changing the title from bus to motorhome (which is not a problem). Photo ID, proof of insurance, proof that you passed the state safety inspection and certified empty weight of vehicle is required if not listed on the original title.

4. Register the vehicle as a motorhome. If you've done the above; you can register MY bus as a private passenger bus and get a passenger vehicle license plate. Requirements are: (a) vehicle is not used commercially (b) vehicle seats less than 10 people (c) vehicle is less than 14,000 pounds empty other wise you pay an additional 3.5% diesel fuel tax (MY bus is 13,450 pounds empty).

5. Pay the registration fee and get a license plate.

My bus is over the 10,000 pound limit for a passenger vehicle so the registration fee will be by weight class, but still a "private passenger" bus, NO CDL REQUIRED.

 

[Baloo]

Progressive commercial treats commercial chassis with "stated value" terms. I have had them for ten years, I tell them it will cost me $50k to replace my rig, they say ok, pay xxxx a month for said coverage. Simple enough, they didn't blink an eye when I told them what it was and what it was used for...

 

[dhawktx]

I strongly suggest you use Terry's FB group (Skoolie Converters). He will ask you questions. He will expect you to have a little conversation with him without getting all pissy about it. THEN you will be approved to join.  <snip>

compassrose, I requested to join quite a few months ago and never have heard boo from them. Is there a person I can message instead?

 

[compassrose]

CompassRose, you're the perfect person to ask:  My bus is 26 feet long and my trailer is 18'6" total, making me at least 45 feet total combined length (trailer hitch 6-12").  I don't plan to park at RV parks or campsites very often, but will this length be a problem?  I've read that a lot of RV parks frown on bus conversions.  They prefer those $500,000-$1 million dollar prefab rigs.

The only parks that have flat out refused, also refused any thing that did not have an RVIA sticker on it (smells bad... backed up to a horse stable) or had long lists of rules. I have not really run into any problems with the bus or my very vintage Class C. We did have problems in The Rockport-Fulton/Aransas/Portland area of TX. We were pulling a food cart at the time and that just freaked those folks out. Then there was the 55+ RV park on Flour Bluff near entrance of the Naval Base (later found out it was not a good place to be). Age was a problem there. Not the RV's but mine & my daughter who was with us. David (56) & the 33yo Class C was just fine. Even the food cart was okay. But me (50) and our daughter (23) were not welcome.

I read the park reviews on RVparkreviews.com and I look for specific key words: workers, long term, semi-permanent, permanent, older RVs. Those are the places I tend to look at because #1, I fit one or more of those labels (RVers are so classy or would classist be better) and #2, places that are taking the workers (who do not think of themselves as RVers BTW) are not as hung up on restricting access to their parks. I look for a clean(ish) park that I feel fairly safe in. RV parks are set up to handle those huge fifthwheels. If you get a pull thru site, you should rarely have problems unless the park is very old. I try to avoid "destination" areas and parks. I understand tourist fleecing since I grew up in S FL and in the Smoky Mountains of NC. I do find it interesting that what I consider to be the best & highest rated RV park in the US, Disney's Ft. Wilderness, allows skoolie conversions yet some little po-dunk snootified campground doesn't. ANY public campground will take a skoolie conversion.

 

[compassrose]

compassrose, I requested to join quite a few months ago and never have heard boo from them. Is there a person I can message instead?

Terry Botkin. Try again. He gets bogged down and lost a pile due to a glitch a while back.

 

[ainley53]

In an effort to keep things in chronological order I'm going to start my posts with the date I did things as I never seem to have time to post events and pics on the day I did them.  

To catch up; (11/25/15 to 12/02/2015)
I went to Houston for Thanksgiving.  While there I got lens covers for the back up lights, brake lights and turn signals as well as rear view mirrors and brackets.  For any of you needing NEW PARTS for your bus (or truck) do a Google search for Chalk's Truck Parts on McCarty Drive in Houston.

12/03/2015
Installed lens covers.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h...iLlt6PUA7Pz5yaP7Fr5RHpyrKFQJ1XHg=w480-h640-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h...YlOzoG2PyepeldU5N1D5yhP1owm7LT9o=w480-h640-no

12/04/2015
Removed the seats.  This turned out to be quite a challenge.  It seems the normal way to clean a bus is to hose it out and let it air dry which leaves the floor wet and the plywood under the rubber mat soaks up a LOT of moisture.  After almost 20 years the plywood is spongy in lots of places and the seat mounting bolts that went through the floor were severely rusted.  Two bolts per leg and two legs per seat on the aisle side.  Three bolts next to the wall of the bus through a rail which were not rusted at all.  I finally had to have my Uncle help me. I got under the bus and put a wrench on the nuts while he used a cordless ratchet drive to undo the bolt from inside the bus.  A lot of them sheared off while trying to get the nuts off.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C...Ue_JevpxY09_IDCI3s8NcQWE6uYPsd10=w480-h640-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K...CjDAtJWOx0ujNScE_VeQeliXPwU9BfYQ=w480-h640-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N...nqnRr18LLc-LVQJb_Ag-QCccDg1E0NY8=w480-h640-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C...mZJlX-egzE3iK_iLn3sQVRMZAJEcmbIs=w480-h640-no

 

[speedhighway46]

You're getting lots of TN specific info; that's great. I can't help you there; I'm in Michigan.

When I went looking for insurance for my Peterbilt Motorhome conversion, I had pretty much the same situation you are having: Lots of "no" and "we don't insure things like that."

I was watching Flo on TV one night telling me how Progressive Insurance will cover all your toys. I called them and after a few quick questions about my vehicle I had an emailed Proof of Insurance right in my hand. I've been with them five years now and not had a problem.

I think my annual premium is around $900. But, I'm in Michigan and you are in Tenessee; wouldn't be surprised if yours were lower. After all, we have Detroit and you don't!

 

[ainley53]

Regarding insurance and registration. I called Progressive and they said "no problem" but the rate they quoted me was MUCH higher than the quote I got from State Farm Insurance. I explained my situation and intentions very thoroughly and honestly to every agent. State Farm wrote me one policy for NOW as a school bus being "stored" during reconstruction for $24.00/month and another policy to start 12/22/15 for FULL coverage as a converted motorhome ($157 for 6 months). I had the agent repeat this several times and confirm he had the blessings of the underwriters. I think this is a very reasonable price for full coverage insurance.

As for registration, I finally got in contact with someone at Texas Department of Motor Vehicles who researched the Texas Vehicle Code concerning titles and registration and there seems to be no problem with registering a converted school bus as a Class A Motorhome. Her quote: "It's no problem. People do it all the time. My husband and I even did it."

You need:

Insurance. Purchased over the phone. Proof of insurance card emailed to me.
Have a reliable diesel mechanic check the vehicle to be sure it has no issues and will pass the safety inspection.
30 day temporary permit (license plate) to drive the vehicle (to Texas). Available online.
Form requesting title change from school bus to motorhome. Available online.
Weight certificate from any state weight station. There's one 3 miles from me in Fulton, KY.
Texas state safety inspection. To be done by a friend who owns a garage and does state inspections.
Pay the registration fees and get passenger plates from county of residence in Texas.

ATTEND RTR 2016 !!!

 

[ainley53]

Terry Botkin. Try again. He gets bogged down and lost a pile due to a glitch a while back.

Thank you compassrose for the referral to Skoolie Converters on FB. I managed to get in contact with Terry Botkin and joined the group. Very helpful and informative group of "pay it forward" types.

 

[ainley53]

Still trying to get pics to post instead of a link to the pic.

12/05/2015
Removed the STOP sign and arm from Hannah.  I've never named a vehicle before but it now seems appropriate that this bus should be called "Hannah".
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOh5fdVxhy5a00aNRFka9olTYXKPfQTh5BB7_B9

Removed the "SCHOOL BUS" decals front and rear.  BTW:  use a plastic razor blade or a sharp PLASTIC putty knife to turn up a corner of the decal enough to grip it with your fingers then; if you have access to a heat gun or a blow dryer you can warm up the decal while pulling the decal off.  If the decal starts to stretch, back off on the heat a little.  My decals came off with no ***** residue left on the paint.  VERY CLEAN.  If the decal is on glass; heat the back of the decal through the glass if possible.  It will come off cleaner than heating the face of the decal.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPva3RASI-2ypNuk0QnWfi1TEmwLUGl1KZA3rjL
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPYHzMK9KNp1qL_3BilWao5wbj3c9Yz4MMxsWSG

Removed the partition behind the driver's seat and beside the front entry steps.  I'll replace these with a wall.  I'll have a doorway in the wall two feet wide (give or take). I haven't decided whether or not to put a door there.

Removed the metal cover off the heater hose going to the rear heater.  I'll seal the hoses and remove the heater later.

Removed the rear air conditioner.  This proved to be a royal PITA.  I put a 6 foot step ladder on either side of the A/C to support it when the nuts were removed from the mounting bolts which came through the roof.  All went well until the last bolt on the right front of the A/C.  It broke loose only to spin but not come off.  I managed to secure an open end wrench onto the nut using 2 Vise Grip clamps then took my 19.2 volt rechargeable ratchet drive (Thank goodness for Craftsman Tools) up to the roof intending to make short work of this bolt.  Once I got all the silicon off the bolt I discovered they had used carriage bolts not hex head bolts and the silicon sealer had been so poorly applied that both the bolt and "c" channel support were badly rusted.  So much for that idea.  Back inside the bus; I had to cut 6 inches of the stainless steel shield on the side of the A/C in order to peel it back and use an offset cutting disc to cut the side off the nut.  Actually had to cut the nut twice, a quarter turn apart to chisel off the nut.  Did I mention this was a ROYAL PITA!!!  My Uncle helped me set the A/C unit on the floor.  I'll unhook the lines later and remove it completely. As soon as I find out if I have to leave the compressor on the engine or not.

Any diesel mechanics out there?  That was your cue to step in with helpful advice.  Can I connect the high and low lines together so the compressor has oil in it to prevent it from seizing or can I remove the compressor and use a shorter belt?
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOclMSGR4jE0-xtwbdGvngo5YBlWgd1a5bT85lB

 

[29chico]

About the compressor:

As long as the compressor clutch is not energized the compressor will not turn.  The compressor pulley will just free wheel.  So disconnecting the wire that energizes the compressor clutch will make sure the compressor does not spin.

Removing the compressor and running a shorter belt would give you a small amount less parasitic drag.  Doing so can be problematical.  So, without looking at the belt drive system from every possible angle, I could not say if it is a good idea or not.

 

[highdesertranger]

are you keeping the front AC. basically you cannot connect the high line to the low line. what type of AC compressor do you have? do you have an engine driven air compressor, not an AC compressor but an air compressor? highdesertranger

 

[WriterMs]

when I tried to get insurance, my address was in an RV park and Nat Gen does not insure "fulltime" buses. I'm parked in a backyard biding my time. Come spring I will try getting insurance again. First thru Nat Gen and then I will hit up the local State Farm (among others).

I am a SD resident so this may make all the difference. I went through Good Sam but my insurance is with National General. My rig is an extended cargo van with a very high high top added -- was used as a country transit with wheel chair lift. I explained I would be using it as a full-time RV. My policy shows "private vehicle" but it comes with $3,000 of RV insurance (contents coverage).