High top strength question

[awpz0r]

I've heard fiberglass high tops (not sure if other materials are used as well) can only support a small amount of weight. Further reinforcing with wood can be done. I am curious if anyone knows what steps would need to be taken to make sure the roof was strong enough to support 2 roof vent fans and as much solar as can be fitted? Potentially even a large pvc solar water heater tube on one side and a retractable shade setup on the other. Basically as much use of the roof as possible. Any idea if this is possible if enough reinforcing was done? What might be required? Thinking something along the lines of an express/savana, extended or normal as I am undecided currently concerning length.

I like the idea of stealth... but I figure if I want solar panels, its going to be obvious anyways, so why not go all out? Though on the flip side I have seen raised rails that make it so you can only see the solar panels from above, but then maybe the large rails make you stand out? idk.. rambling... sorry, any info is appreciated. I feel like I am in constant research mode for the day I eventually pull the trigger.

 

[awpz0r]

Also. Has anyone with a high top that they converted left a lip/edge of the original roof in tact to form extra shelving all around? If I get it done myself one day I was thinking of leaving somewhere between 6 inches and 1 foot around each edge, but none at the slider entry so ingress and egress is easier, and maybe even more over wherever the bed ends up. Either the back or the side (I like the custom beds that are a bench couch that folds into a bed but want to keep it one solid mattress rather than in pieces.

 

[ColoRockiesFan]

My hightop was reinforced with wood by Fiberine when I bought it. The roof now carries 2 100W solar panels and I had a Maxxfan installed.  Others in this forum have had steel cages custom made to reinforce their tops. Hopefully one of them will chime in.

When I had the top installed, I left the space over the cab intact. Some people do the cab and rear  to make very nice storage areas. 

I have had a shelf installed around the top on the inside. This hides the wiring and the area where the top connects to the van. I also plan to put shelves/storage/cabinets on top of this shelf. I also plan to run strings of lights under the shelf. Here's a link to the pictures of my top.

Inside Top

 

[highdesertranger]

depends on the top. some tops are flimsy single wall fiberglass, while others are double wall and built like a fiberglass boat. it really depends. highdesertranger

 

[Almost There]

My current high top (24") has wooden strips embedded lengthwise in the single shell fiberglass top. It also  has a 1/4" x 3" steel plate 'roll cage' that is welded directly to the van roof. It does not actually touch the fiberglass roof but is there for safety sake.

Anything that is mounted directly to the fiberglass roof needs to have a back up board for the bolts/screws to be secured to anyways. Fiberglass by itself is not something that one wants to bolt directly to so one screws through the fiberglass and bolts to a back up board.

I had a double fiberglass high top on a previous van and I would still have used a backing board for anything penetrating the fiberglass.

As to leaving a lip for building out cabinets around the perimeter - yes, a six inch rim of the original roof will allow you to mount storage cabinets. My previous  high top van had this done.

The van roof directly above the driving compartment is ALWAYS left intact for structural integrity and safety in the driving compartment.

My current van has the original roof left intact for 36" (to the last rear rib) giving me a very large storage compartment (see build thread for pictures).

Having had both perimeter cupboards and the one large storage compartment, I would choose the one large one any day! Trying to fit everything in to the smaller cupboards was always a problem, not so with the large storage bay.

 

[Beeps and eats]

It's all in the way the top is built. Some have wooden reenforcement's so maybe nothing needs to be done. Others are lightly constructed and wood or aluminum, it's better. Can be added. Honestly I would opt for the latter because you can lay out mounting points and add the mounts accordingly.

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