highdesertranger
R.I.P HDR
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2012
- Messages
- 22,892
- Reaction score
- 86
nice set up Sabatical. highdesertranger
Help Designing 200 Watt System
- Thread starter B and C
- Start date
Help Support Van Living Forum:
Sabatical
Well-known member
Thanks HDR. It's a bit much for our needs but we bought it based on what we thought we'd need and of course once you are living the life you adjust to using far less than in a house on the grid.highdesertranger said:
We've never used the charger and the inverter is twice what we need but it's what we got so we'll stick with it.
Sabatical
Well-known member
Well thank you Stern wake. That's a huge compliment coming from you. It's working very well for us and we'll be moving it from the camper to our tiny house. We've gotten a smaller camper (and realized our needs are smaller) so we got a new system for it. 520 watts (2 panels), 1 MS Kid, and 2 T105s. All the goodies will be in a tounge mounted box and I'll start a thread when I do the install which will be late October probably.SternWake said:
B and C
Well-known member
@ [font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Sabatical:[/font][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif] [/font]I have photovoltaic envy going too! Very Nice.
I assume then that you are happy with the Kid?
@ [font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]akrvbob: [/font]
[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I thought 400 watts was a small system :huh: They do have large (up to) 250 Amp controllers. I think I am aiming at something right between a more common 25 amp controller (small) and 60 Amp controller(huge). If physical dimensions were not a concern, I would probably already have one on order. I may have to rethink the whole controller thing and start looking at PWM controllers if I can find a programmable one. I really do not want to go that route though. Holding out hope for the Kid!
[/font]
[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Brian[/font]
I assume then that you are happy with the Kid?
@ [font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]akrvbob: [/font]
[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I thought 400 watts was a small system :huh: They do have large (up to) 250 Amp controllers. I think I am aiming at something right between a more common 25 amp controller (small) and 60 Amp controller(huge). If physical dimensions were not a concern, I would probably already have one on order. I may have to rethink the whole controller thing and start looking at PWM controllers if I can find a programmable one. I really do not want to go that route though. Holding out hope for the Kid!
[/font]
[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Brian[/font]
Sabatical
Well-known member
B and C
I haven't used any other controllers. This is our first system. That being said. I do like the Kid.
A little backstory: I felt I needed help setting it up and hadn't discovered this wonderful resource (CRVL). I worked with a local guy who does residential and commercial systems. He called ours a "camp on the go" system and ours was his first of this type. I went with panels he had available and they are big. He used the Midnite Solar sizing tool and figured we would need two controllers. Thankfully the system price didn't change.
When I picked it up he said "Here's the manual. You are going to have to learn how to use them." It was pretty straight forward. We got out to the desert and although everything was working fine, I had questions. I called for tech support and talked to a guy also sitting in his camper in the AZ desert. Score! The second person I talked to was in her off grid cabin in Maine. Major points for english speaking people who actually are living in an environment with the product in use.
While in the desert I added the Whiz Bang Jr.. I had been using a dummy light battery meter. The extra info provided by the upgrade provides me with exactly what I need to see that my battery bank is in good shape with real time numbers. I'm not a super technical guy so it was nice not to have an over abundance of info. I had looked at the Bogart tri metric and was gonna go that way but the wbjr was less money and the kids were factory programmed to use this add on and no extra displays were needed. We've been using this system daily since January 2015 in both AZ and northern NY. I have had no problems and wouldn't change a thing.
When I started looking for a smaller system to use when on the road, I considered Renogy and a pwm or simpler mppt controller. I realized I would be limited by choosing the cheaper route and because we have the means I opted for mppt. As I researched mppt controllers I found that the Kid w/ wbjr was the best bang for the buck.
Getting solar pieces and parts here in non-traditonal solar country with free or affordable shipping was not going to happen so I went back to the local dealer and asked him to buld us a second system. I asked for 400 watts, 1 Kid, and 2 T105's. Using panels he had in stock (=no shipping charge) we ended up with 520 watts out of 2 Helios panels.
You could piece together a system yourself with Renogy panels and whatever other parts for much less money and it'd probably do just fine for you. It would've probably been just fine for me to, but we are planning on using these for many many years to come and so I stepped up for parts that I felt were more suited to longevity.
As a gauge for you i'll tell you that the larger system was $3000 w/o wbjr. The smaller system was about $1700. Both came with a board mounted control center like in the earlier pic. Wiring was complete and safety factors were installed so a solar and electrical newb like me wouldn't have to worry. To me that "insurance" was worth the price of admission.
I haven't used any other controllers. This is our first system. That being said. I do like the Kid.
A little backstory: I felt I needed help setting it up and hadn't discovered this wonderful resource (CRVL). I worked with a local guy who does residential and commercial systems. He called ours a "camp on the go" system and ours was his first of this type. I went with panels he had available and they are big. He used the Midnite Solar sizing tool and figured we would need two controllers. Thankfully the system price didn't change.
When I picked it up he said "Here's the manual. You are going to have to learn how to use them." It was pretty straight forward. We got out to the desert and although everything was working fine, I had questions. I called for tech support and talked to a guy also sitting in his camper in the AZ desert. Score! The second person I talked to was in her off grid cabin in Maine. Major points for english speaking people who actually are living in an environment with the product in use.
While in the desert I added the Whiz Bang Jr.. I had been using a dummy light battery meter. The extra info provided by the upgrade provides me with exactly what I need to see that my battery bank is in good shape with real time numbers. I'm not a super technical guy so it was nice not to have an over abundance of info. I had looked at the Bogart tri metric and was gonna go that way but the wbjr was less money and the kids were factory programmed to use this add on and no extra displays were needed. We've been using this system daily since January 2015 in both AZ and northern NY. I have had no problems and wouldn't change a thing.
When I started looking for a smaller system to use when on the road, I considered Renogy and a pwm or simpler mppt controller. I realized I would be limited by choosing the cheaper route and because we have the means I opted for mppt. As I researched mppt controllers I found that the Kid w/ wbjr was the best bang for the buck.
Getting solar pieces and parts here in non-traditonal solar country with free or affordable shipping was not going to happen so I went back to the local dealer and asked him to buld us a second system. I asked for 400 watts, 1 Kid, and 2 T105's. Using panels he had in stock (=no shipping charge) we ended up with 520 watts out of 2 Helios panels.
You could piece together a system yourself with Renogy panels and whatever other parts for much less money and it'd probably do just fine for you. It would've probably been just fine for me to, but we are planning on using these for many many years to come and so I stepped up for parts that I felt were more suited to longevity.
As a gauge for you i'll tell you that the larger system was $3000 w/o wbjr. The smaller system was about $1700. Both came with a board mounted control center like in the earlier pic. Wiring was complete and safety factors were installed so a solar and electrical newb like me wouldn't have to worry. To me that "insurance" was worth the price of admission.
B and C
Well-known member
Thanks for the update Sabatical. Unfortunately those big rigid panels won't work for me in the Roadtrek. No real estate on the roof and I don't want to always have to park in the sun. The little Renogy 100W panels are perfect for my needs as I can store them in the basement storage area. While traveling, I don't have to try to maneuver around them. I will be making the call about the Kid on Monday 
Thanks again,
Brian
Thanks again,
Brian
ZoNiE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2015
- Messages
- 1,217
- Reaction score
- 3
You really shouldn't use 110V extension cords for DC power. You never know when someone is gonna "Help" you setup and inadvertently plug that 110V cable into a 110V outlet and fry your DC electrical system. Cut the ends off the cord and use MC4's or something Other than 110V Edison Plugs.
ZoNiE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2015
- Messages
- 1,217
- Reaction score
- 3
Sabatical said:This is our current setup in the camper. Two Kids for 840 watts via two panels. Working well for us and we use the Whiz Bang Jr. for monitoring.
Sabatical, how are you liking that Go Power inverter? They got good reviews and are sold as two other brands as well. I'm about to buy one and that is top of my list.
I also have a Midnight Kid, (one only, 400W). I recommend them. --> OP: Buy a Kid, get the WBJR, sell the trimetric... You won't need it with the Kid.
B and C
Well-known member
ZoNiE said:
It is all in what wires are used in the extension cord. There is only one hot wire and then there is a neutral and a ground wire. These two wires are common in the 110v electrical feed line at the feeder end. These two wires also have the largest contact area for a better connection. I will be using the neutral and ground wires only, not the hot wire so if it is inadvertently plugged in, nothing is damaged.
Good catch.
Brian
Sabatical
Well-known member
My only gripe about the gopower inverter is that it doesn't like the higher voltage of the absorb cycle. It flashes the input level light. We really only use it to power the dog's radio fence at 400w and the food chopper or coffee grinder.ZoNiE said:
At some point I'd like to replace it with something smaller which would draw less when in use.
Off topic: maybe somebody here could help me answer this question. The radio fence box has a "wall wart" with an output voltage of 19v. I see on amazon that they sell a dc ciggy plug adpter leading me to believe I could snip the wall wart off and solder on my own. I can't find any specs on the unit that give a voltage range. Any thoughts out there on the likelyhood that it would work?
B and C
Well-known member
Sabatical said:
The adapter on Amazon will have a step up transformer in it. It "steps up" 12v to 19v. It will also be rated to handle the amps needed for the fence. This is the same type adapter that my laptop uses, 12v in, 19v out to the laptop. My hp elitedesk 800 g1 will run off this same adapter. Sometimes you just can't get away from a ciggy plug adapter. I recommend you bite the bullet and buy the one made for it.
Brian
Sabatical
Well-known member
Thanks for that info Brian. I'll do that.
SternWake
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2013
- Messages
- 3,874
- Reaction score
- 2
This device can step voltage upto 32 volts if desired, and can handle 150 watts.
No ciggy plug needed:
http://www.amazon.com/Geeetech-Conv...id=1443372723&sr=8-1&keywords=voltage+booster
I have one. Only used to so far to make 12v computer fans into hovercraft at around 28 volts.
I can't make it work with my Dell laptop as is has a third pin inside the barrell connector, well it will power it but the laptop battery will not charge.
They are quite small. a 60MM fan is meant to be able to bridge the heatsinks. Not sure it actually needs that at 150 watts.
No ciggy plug needed:
http://www.amazon.com/Geeetech-Conv...id=1443372723&sr=8-1&keywords=voltage+booster
I have one. Only used to so far to make 12v computer fans into hovercraft at around 28 volts.
I can't make it work with my Dell laptop as is has a third pin inside the barrell connector, well it will power it but the laptop battery will not charge.
They are quite small. a 60MM fan is meant to be able to bridge the heatsinks. Not sure it actually needs that at 150 watts.
Sabatical
Well-known member
I've followed links in your posts before to look at those. I love the idea but don't have a clue how to put one into play. Where can I learn how to use them?
SternWake
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2013
- Messages
- 3,874
- Reaction score
- 2
The geetech voltage booster is simple to use.
4 wires to input under the screw terminals. On the input side run + and - from your fuse box. Put your Digital multimeter leads on the output terminals which will be clearly marked. Use a jewelers screwdriver and turn th little screw on the light blue potentiometer to 19 volts.
Now the output, you must determine which wire to your appliance is (+) and which is -. In almost all cases the (+) is inside the barrell connector.
After cutting the wire and stripping some insulation, set your DMM to ohms, and touch the leads together. it should go from 1 to 0.
Now stick one multimeter lead inside the barrell connector and place the other lead on one wire's copper or the other. One of them will send the DMM to 0, and then this is your (+).
Usually the (+) wire has ridges or a Stripe on the wire itself, but NOT ALWAYS, so it is very important to test them and make sure you get the polatity correct.
After doing so, stick the (+) wire into the Geetech booster (+) output and the other wire in the negative and plug it back into 12v, and it will provide upto 150 watts at the voltage you set.
You can also change the voltage after hooking the barrell connector upto it. Just make sure not to short out the unit with the multimeter leads, or have it powered when inserting stranded wire under the set screws.
If you wired your charge controllers yourself, this is just as simple really.
4 wires to input under the screw terminals. On the input side run + and - from your fuse box. Put your Digital multimeter leads on the output terminals which will be clearly marked. Use a jewelers screwdriver and turn th little screw on the light blue potentiometer to 19 volts.
Now the output, you must determine which wire to your appliance is (+) and which is -. In almost all cases the (+) is inside the barrell connector.
After cutting the wire and stripping some insulation, set your DMM to ohms, and touch the leads together. it should go from 1 to 0.
Now stick one multimeter lead inside the barrell connector and place the other lead on one wire's copper or the other. One of them will send the DMM to 0, and then this is your (+).
Usually the (+) wire has ridges or a Stripe on the wire itself, but NOT ALWAYS, so it is very important to test them and make sure you get the polatity correct.
After doing so, stick the (+) wire into the Geetech booster (+) output and the other wire in the negative and plug it back into 12v, and it will provide upto 150 watts at the voltage you set.
You can also change the voltage after hooking the barrell connector upto it. Just make sure not to short out the unit with the multimeter leads, or have it powered when inserting stranded wire under the set screws.
If you wired your charge controllers yourself, this is just as simple really.
Sabatical
Well-known member
Doesn't sound like a big if I take my time and do it right. Thanks so much for the tutorial.
Scott
Scott
B and C
Well-known member
OK. I just got through ordering the Midnite Kid and the battery temp sensor from Colorado Solar. Waay cheaper than on the Midnite site. The update version of the Kid has a new feature, AGS and is called the Kid Smart AGS. Automatic generator start and it is user adjustable too. I haven't decided if I will connect this feature yet, but will be nice to know it is there if I decide to. I don't think I will need it with my battery bank. After I kill the batteries and have to buy another set, then maybe.
Now just waiting for those Renogy bendable panels to be back in stock.
Brian
Now just waiting for those Renogy bendable panels to be back in stock.
Brian
Sabatical
Well-known member
Right on! I think you'll like it. Did you opt for the whiz bang jr or sticking with the tri metric?B and C said:
B and C
Well-known member
Sticking with the trimetric, paid for. I got it when I thought I would use that little Harbor Freight 6 amp generator to charge when needed (it is quite, but still annoying if running for hours). It has a connection to the chassis battery that lets me know how many volts are in it too. After resting the engine for a week I will know when the battery will need replacing before I have to break out the jumper cables and give myself a jump or worse yet, remove a battery from the house string to put up there.
Brian
Brian
