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wesmagyar said:
<p>Well i was able to snap some pictures of my Generator. hopefully we can use these to identify what i need....</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/114298992238175040609/Rv#5804411054124624050">Click here</a> for a picture of the full generator.<br /><br /><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/114298992238175040609/Rv#5804411161552611122">Click here</a> for what i think is the fuel pump.<br /><br /><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/114298992238175040609/Rv#5804434381760157858">and here</a> is the data plate... you cant see much but you can make out the following information if you zoom waaaaay in!<br /><br />Serial number&nbsp;<br /><br />G8 &nbsp; 690288<br /><br />model and spec number BEA-1r/160046<br /><br />Some of the numbers are barely readable. i think the 2 numbers after the G8 are 66 but im not sure as for anything before the BEA i have no clue.<br />Also found out today the motor home is a Coachmen brand.&nbsp;don't&nbsp;know the model number yet, going to try and call them monday and see what i can find out.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Also just uploaded a BUNCH of pictures to my <a href="http://wesmagyar.info/wordpress/">blog</a> of the RV take a look and if you can identify its model number that would be awesome!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>*Edit* i found a forums called Smokestak and they where able to identify the generator, The even hooked me up with a service manual! so fairly stoked about that!!!!</p>
<br /><br />4kw's a lot of generator.&nbsp; If it turns out you don't need it you might find you can get a good price selling it <br /><br />Here's wishing you whatever you wish for yourself on it.
 
<p>yeah the generator is a<span style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; background-color: #dfe6ee;">&nbsp;</span><span style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; background-color: #dfe6ee;">&nbsp;</span><span style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">4.0kw single phase 120 v only ONAN BFA model and according to the serial it was built in july 1986. the guys on the forums said i should take apart the fuel pump and clean the thing out thoroughly&nbsp;because&nbsp;i guess they are bricks as far as toughness goes and almost never break. so that would be good news. hope its as simple as that.</span><span style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; background-color: #dfe6ee;"><span style="color: #000000;"><br />for future reference the forums are over at&nbsp;</span></span><a href="http://www.smokstak.com/forum/">http://www.smokstak.com/forum/</a>&nbsp;good group of guys over there for all kinds of engines from tractor to genny's.</p><p>On a side note i have been doing research on Slab City and it seems interesting. i might check it out one of these times if i can ever get the fuel economy on my rig to something&nbsp;respectable&nbsp; Any one got any advice on how to eke out more fuel economy from a 1970's Era V8 350 chevy motor? Right now im getting 8mpg and i know i should get better then that... Its obviously not the original Engine however the original was a 350. The original motor&nbsp;seized&nbsp;because&nbsp;of a blown head gasket and had to be replaced. Supposedly with the stock motor it got 12 mpg... Any help there would be awesome. heck even getting it to 10 mpg would make a large difference.</p>
 
wesmagyar said:
<p>yeah the generator is a<span style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; background-color: #dfe6ee;">&nbsp;</span><span style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; background-color: #dfe6ee;">&nbsp;</span><span style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">4.0kw single phase 120 v only ONAN BFA model and according to the serial it was built in july 1986. the guys on the forums said i should take apart the fuel pump and clean the thing out thoroughly&nbsp;because&nbsp;i guess they are bricks as far as toughness goes and almost never break. so that would be good news. hope its as simple as that.</span><span style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; background-color: #dfe6ee;"><span style="color: #000000;"><br />for future reference the forums are over at&nbsp;</span></span><a href="http://www.smokstak.com/forum/">http://www.smokstak.com/forum/</a>&nbsp;good group of guys over there for all kinds of engines from tractor to genny's.</p><p>On a side note i have been doing research on Slab City and it seems interesting. i might check it out one of these times if i can ever get the fuel economy on my rig to something&nbsp;respectable&nbsp; Any one got any advice on how to eke out more fuel economy from a 1970's Era V8 350 chevy motor? Right now im getting 8mpg and i know i should get better then that... Its obviously not the original Engine however the original was a 350. The original motor&nbsp;seized&nbsp;because&nbsp;of a blown head gasket and had to be replaced. Supposedly with the stock motor it got 12 mpg... Any help there would be awesome. heck even getting it to 10 mpg would make a large difference.</p>
Next oil change replacing it with Slick 50 might help.&nbsp; Maybe not a lot, but maybe.&nbsp; Clean air filter might help if it isn't clean.&nbsp; You might get your cousin to put a vacuum gauge on it which might reveal something you can do to improve things.&nbsp; Probably checking the compression in all the cylinders would be educational and might tell you something worth knowing.&nbsp; Run your finger along the inside of the end of the tailpipe and have a look at what's on your finger might also.&nbsp; Have a look at the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve and make certain it's releasing the pressure.&nbsp; If the engine's fighting crankcase pressure it can reduce mileage.&nbsp; When he's checking the compression might as well have a look at the plugs and gaps might help.&nbsp; Probably you are pre-electronic ignition and the points might appreciate being looked at for wear and gap settings and pitting.<br /><br />
 
I should have mentioned what you're seeing might just be the difference between driving in town and highway driving.&nbsp; Most folks don't attempt to estimate gas mileage on city streets because it varies so much.&nbsp; But if you're getting 8 mpg on the highway and have reason to believe 12 mpg is possible the other issue is speed.<br /><br />Most vehicles have a 'sweet spot' speed at which in normal highway driving they get the best mileage they're going to with&nbsp; the condition of the engine, the altitude, the power to weigh ratio of the vehicle, and the type of fuel being burned.
 
<p>Well how i calulated it is i drove From Eugene to Vancouver Washington and back, Filled the tank before i left then divided the miles i drove by the amount of gas the RV took. i got about 8.3, I tried to draft trucks as much as possible and kept it between 55-60 the whole way.</p><p>That was the speed i could maintain without having to push the gas to hard and felt about right freeway wise. (ie seemed like the sweet spot)</p>
 
wesmagyar said:
<p>Well how i calulated it is i drove From Eugene to Vancouver Washington and back, Filled the tank before i left then divided the miles i drove by the amount of gas the RV took. i got about 8.3, I tried to draft trucks as much as possible and kept it between 55-60 the whole way.</p><p>That was the speed i could maintain without having to push the gas to hard and felt about right freeway wise. (ie seemed like the sweet spot)</p>
<br /><br />I don't know of any tricks or secrets to get better gas mileage.&nbsp; The engine wants the ideal mixture of fuel and oxygen, which can be influenced by the air filter being dirty or the settings on the carb.&nbsp; It wants good lubrication, which might be influenced by Slick Fifty.&nbsp; It wants good compression, which won't be inexpensive if it doesn't have it.&nbsp; It wants properly timed ignition and components in good condition.&nbsp; It wants to be free of bypass pressure in the crankcase and back pressure in the exhaust system.<br /><br />If it has all that probably your only options might be reducing the weight, improving the aerodynamics to reduce the drag produced by airflow over the body.<br /><br />Reducing the weight includes driving with less 8.5 pound per gallon water, finding a lighter generator big enough to fill your needs that doesn't weigh 250 pounds, removing whatever is in there you don't absolutely need.<br /><br />Making certain all the tires have proper pressure might also help.&nbsp; Tires a bit low can tear hell out of gas mileage.
 
I think the timing may be off, and it&nbsp;doesn't&nbsp;appear to have any timing light marks on the engine. so im not sure how to go about&nbsp;adjusting&nbsp;the timing. i could try to do it by ear but i am a total noob at that kinda stuff. do you know of any guides or anything? im guessing it being off on the timing could ruin the gas mileage as well.
 
wesmagyar said:
I think the timing may be off, and it&nbsp;doesn't&nbsp;appear to have any timing light marks on the engine. so im not sure how to go about&nbsp;adjusting&nbsp;the timing. i could try to do it by ear but i am a total noob at that kinda stuff. do you know of any guides or anything? im guessing it being off on the timing could ruin the gas mileage as well.
The marks are on the harmonic balancer and you'll need someone with a timing light to do it right, along with a special wrench to get behind the distributor and loosen the bolt holding it down.<br /><br />This is probably getting a bit lengthy for an intro thread.&nbsp; Might be a better idea to start a separate thread about it over in conversion progress or mechanical.
 
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