I could not find much information on the Class- "C" I bought. It was manufactured By: Mobile Traveler out of Junction City, Kansas. I know they went out of business late 1980's - early 1990's.. I could not find any info on the building plans, pluming, electrical, and so on. If anyone out there knows of this company could you please notify me. I think it is a 24 ft, if you measure from bumper to bumper. One thing google could not find is the info I need, ironic. So, I'm turning to the people that might know more than google. I'm new here, going to look over the other threads. Thanks
Have you Ever
- Thread starter jim solo
- Start date
Help Support Van Living Forum:
JD GUMBEE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2018
- Messages
- 826
- Reaction score
- 18
Truly, they are all built using the same parts.
There are "brand loyal" people out there who think one is built head and shoulders above the rest...but that does not follow logic or history.
Not sure exactly what you are after, but few people ever get a bona fide manual on servicing the older stuff.
What is your immediate issue?
There are "brand loyal" people out there who think one is built head and shoulders above the rest...but that does not follow logic or history.
Not sure exactly what you are after, but few people ever get a bona fide manual on servicing the older stuff.
What is your immediate issue?
Mostly the electrical and plumbing layout, I did not want to have to gut the walls out just to have an idea of what was behind them. What type of framing in the walls. Blue prints : Before I retired, I built 10 million dollar buildings and still know where every nail, screw, and inch of concrete are in them, a nightmare. I just like to know how something is constructed and where the weak spots might be. I do not want to plan a new modification and cut threw pipes or wires.
B and C
Well-known member
I don't know any RV manufacturer that provides as built plans, wiring diagrams or anything like that. Look on top and you will see where the vent stacks are. Look underneath and you will see most of the drain system. If it is a 4 season trailer, the pressure and drain lines will be inside in heated space or between a floor and the underpinning of the trailer. Wiring, look at where stuff is and figure the shortest runs to get there. I don't know anybody that blindly cuts without some exploratory work before doing so. It is a pain for sure.
Edit to add: RV's are built to a price point and all that kind of stuff would run the price way up.
Edit to add: RV's are built to a price point and all that kind of stuff would run the price way up.
seak
Well-known member
I spent a brief stint working at an RV parts & repair shop in the 1980's. I was told that Mobile Traveler motor homes were built with steel framing and foam core wall panels. I was also told that the build quality was higher than average. I never worked on one that I recall, so I can't verify that. However, one caught my eye enough to ask a colleague about it.
UtahPam
Well-known member
https://www.gopher.com/serp?q=rv ow...IiyQVlSbMEg-wnWwm_lBSVv9KceaHRdxoC_ggQAvD_BwE
maybe this link can help
Mod edit: the above link takes you to a gopher page with many links to RV manuals. I am not sure what type of manuals.
please include a complete description of what you are linking to.
please be carful some of the links want you to download programs
maybe this link can help
Mod edit: the above link takes you to a gopher page with many links to RV manuals. I am not sure what type of manuals.
please include a complete description of what you are linking to.
please be carful some of the links want you to download programs
If it was mine and I was wondering where the framing studs were and where the electric wires were located I would get busy with one of the stud finders that can also sense electric current. That will be your best bet for mapping it out.
Lots of good info here. UthaPam: I'll look over the link, cyndi : I was hoping it was a good rig when I bought it, seak : good info I did see steel framing in the floor area I fixed, maki2 : I'll look for that stud finder tool. Thank you all, and I feel better that this model has a good reputation on quality.
First of all there is a facebook group for these motorhomes. If you join then you can get access to their files section. Apparently there is an owner's manual in there. There is also a manual someone photographed in the photo album section.
https://www.facebook.com/Mobile-Traveler-Owners-Group-103407506403462/
If you want help finding something such as the manual you need to post specific information. Because motorhomes were made in different years based on different vehicles for the power train and came in different lengths with different features and options you have to get very specific with keywords to find what you are searching for.
Year
make
model
base vehicle such as Chevy, Ford, Dodge including engine size
Of course you won't need just the manual for the coach you will also need the base vehicle manual.
But even if you don't find the original manual you should begin collecting the individual manuals for the appliances. Those are often very useful. Sometimes you can find them as online downloads. On the older ones people on RV forums may have scanned them and made them available as downloads.
stove
fridge
converter
pump
toilet
Be organized, put it on a portable hard drive. Make an extra copy to keep on your computer and/or online backup site.
https://www.facebook.com/Mobile-Traveler-Owners-Group-103407506403462/
If you want help finding something such as the manual you need to post specific information. Because motorhomes were made in different years based on different vehicles for the power train and came in different lengths with different features and options you have to get very specific with keywords to find what you are searching for.
Year
make
model
base vehicle such as Chevy, Ford, Dodge including engine size
Of course you won't need just the manual for the coach you will also need the base vehicle manual.
But even if you don't find the original manual you should begin collecting the individual manuals for the appliances. Those are often very useful. Sometimes you can find them as online downloads. On the older ones people on RV forums may have scanned them and made them available as downloads.
stove
fridge
converter
pump
toilet
Be organized, put it on a portable hard drive. Make an extra copy to keep on your computer and/or online backup site.
I left Facebook back in 2009, because they crowded up my account with people that had no business being there. I have seen changes they have made lately in tech news. May look into it again if I can keep control of whom I want on my page. I know some people that would do that for me that have an account. Or, if FB has cleaned up it's act, I might get an account going.
I use my phone to take pix and short Vids of different things I repair on my Class C . I have a YouTube Channel for my RV, and a blog, even a website. They are all crappy right now, unorganized and a mess. I'm a Techy at heart, and will have to do some learning about how to use it properly on the road.
I'm living in it part time to work out any bugs in my attitude, and see how things work for different situations. Right now I'm peice mealing a composting toilet together, to see if that works for me. I thought I would never have to potty train again 60 years later.
Bumper to bumper this rig is 24.5 feet. Has a 460 Cu. In. Edilbrock 4 barrel, Flow threw headers 35,000 O/Miles on it. Auto tranny, cruise control, top speed one time only 90+ mph, to scary at that speed. 8500 Gross weight. I got a good deal on it. Drive train, cab and frame are worth twice what I paid for it.
I use my phone to take pix and short Vids of different things I repair on my Class C . I have a YouTube Channel for my RV, and a blog, even a website. They are all crappy right now, unorganized and a mess. I'm a Techy at heart, and will have to do some learning about how to use it properly on the road.
I'm living in it part time to work out any bugs in my attitude, and see how things work for different situations. Right now I'm peice mealing a composting toilet together, to see if that works for me. I thought I would never have to potty train again 60 years later.
Bumper to bumper this rig is 24.5 feet. Has a 460 Cu. In. Edilbrock 4 barrel, Flow threw headers 35,000 O/Miles on it. Auto tranny, cruise control, top speed one time only 90+ mph, to scary at that speed. 8500 Gross weight. I got a good deal on it. Drive train, cab and frame are worth twice what I paid for it.
Like I said if you want help you need to specify the year, the model name and the brand of vehicle the motorhome was built on. I am very good at finding things but I could care less about the size of your engine and the headers. What I need to know is Dodge or Chevy, they built some on Dodge and others on Chevy. You did say 24' so at least I have that much to search with. Keywords are critical, you need the right one to bring up the information. I can find things in seconds compared to most people but you are not going to get any help if you don't give me the keywords I need. Make, model, year, length, what type of vehicle it was built on.
If you don't like facebook or do like it I don't care. Just get a friend to sign up and look at that site for you. They can leave the group when you get the information off of it.
If you don't like facebook or do like it I don't care. Just get a friend to sign up and look at that site for you. They can leave the group when you get the information off of it.
Sorry about the mis communication on my part. I got the title out and looked at it to get some info off it.
1986 Ford E-350 ( econo-line cab )
Vehicle Body MTR H
I measured wheel base at 160 inches,
Empty wgt. 9300 lbs - Gross wgt 14,000
16 inch wheels , dual on rear end, 90 psi , Brand new tires on it when I bought the rig. I reposition them every 4 months to avoid flat spots.
I did not think any one here would look up the info on this rig for me, thought you where just advising me of the best way to find it myself. I looked at and googled all the labels on the body, found out were it was made and that the company went belly up early 1990s. The serial numbers on the labels did no good, even Google was lost in searching for them.
1986 Ford E-350 ( econo-line cab )
Vehicle Body MTR H
I measured wheel base at 160 inches,
Empty wgt. 9300 lbs - Gross wgt 14,000
16 inch wheels , dual on rear end, 90 psi , Brand new tires on it when I bought the rig. I reposition them every 4 months to avoid flat spots.
I did not think any one here would look up the info on this rig for me, thought you where just advising me of the best way to find it myself. I looked at and googled all the labels on the body, found out were it was made and that the company went belly up early 1990s. The serial numbers on the labels did no good, even Google was lost in searching for them.
highdesertranger
R.I.P HDR
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2012
- Messages
- 22,892
- Reaction score
- 87
ok I got to ask, what are "flow threw headers?". I have worked on cars my whole life, worked on tractors, big trucks, off road race trucks and buggies, 4x4's, I have even worked on ships and I have never heard that term before. highdesertranger
I Wasn't thinking, They are FlowMaster Brand Headers. If you could hear them now, I run the motor about 1/2 hour every week to charge all batteries. They are loud, and plan to get quieter mufflers on it soon. No flames shot out, but those headers belong on a race car. There is a link in my signature and thumb nail pic attached. Can't speel things right until I have at least 3 cups of coffee in the morning.
Attachments
highdesertranger
R.I.P HDR
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2012
- Messages
- 22,892
- Reaction score
- 87
ok cool, actually I have Flow Master mufflers on my Chevy. dang mufflers won't rot out I have had them on 3 different trucks bought them in 1989. I have never had a set of mufflers that refuse to die like them. I also have Doug Thorley headers on the truck same thing, bought them at the same time. they are two products that sure live up to the adage, buy quality and cry once, buy cheap and cry over and over. highdesertranger
JD GUMBEE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2018
- Messages
- 826
- Reaction score
- 18
Have a very close look at the headers flowing back.
The 460's had a nasty habit back then of roasting the cab due to the hot manifolds.
People were often sold high-dollar headers as a "fix" for this.
Make sure everything in the path of your headers is clear...or they are wrapped with heat cloth in those areas.
Also, be certain the fuel hose has been replaced.
It is right at the age where fuel/trans cooler lines rupture will burn it to the ground.
Even off the highway in a parking lot, once it flashes from gas or tranny fluid, you could not stop it.
Many Ford cube vans were lost like this, it is no joke.
(Way back when...we had to prove the lines were done and the manifolds were shielded or they would not cover fire loss on any 351/460 powered van nosed units.)
Follow the lines all the way from tank to carb.
Follow trans cooler lines from trans to cooler/radiator.
See any rubber lines in there?
Replace them all...unless you hold an RO from a couple years back...AND your visual inspection confirms they are new.
Unless recently done, the hypoid in the rear end has likely begun "delaminating" as well.
Same with the trans fluid.
Should be a C-6, but the fluid is old enough to drink, buy a gun and vote unless it has been recently flushed.
The 460's had a nasty habit back then of roasting the cab due to the hot manifolds.
People were often sold high-dollar headers as a "fix" for this.
Make sure everything in the path of your headers is clear...or they are wrapped with heat cloth in those areas.
Also, be certain the fuel hose has been replaced.
It is right at the age where fuel/trans cooler lines rupture will burn it to the ground.
Even off the highway in a parking lot, once it flashes from gas or tranny fluid, you could not stop it.
Many Ford cube vans were lost like this, it is no joke.
(Way back when...we had to prove the lines were done and the manifolds were shielded or they would not cover fire loss on any 351/460 powered van nosed units.)
Follow the lines all the way from tank to carb.
Follow trans cooler lines from trans to cooler/radiator.
See any rubber lines in there?
Replace them all...unless you hold an RO from a couple years back...AND your visual inspection confirms they are new.
Unless recently done, the hypoid in the rear end has likely begun "delaminating" as well.
Same with the trans fluid.
Should be a C-6, but the fluid is old enough to drink, buy a gun and vote unless it has been recently flushed.
I did a walk around video of my RV a week after I got it. I'll put a link to the video here to give you all a look at the outside of it. When I get the inside finished I do a video.
Walk Around
Walk Around
I looked through the manual for the 1988 models and that is very likely to be similar in the type of information that would have been presented for your 1984 model. There is absolutely nothing in it that is specific as to how the framing pieces are positioned within the structure. It also does not include any information on how wiring is routed within the walls not does it contain specific locations of plumbing lines.
It is all just generalized information showing an overview of things such as a photo of the panel of a converter, or a generalized diagram of a toilet, connected to waste pipes connected to waste tanks and water lines connected to water heater, sink etc. Absolutely nothing specific in it that would help you out in a renovation.
It is all just generalized information showing an overview of things such as a photo of the panel of a converter, or a generalized diagram of a toilet, connected to waste pipes connected to waste tanks and water lines connected to water heater, sink etc. Absolutely nothing specific in it that would help you out in a renovation.
Thanks for looking , I'll have to get one of those stud finders that detects metal up in the city. Or get a hammer + nail, to do some poke + hope. While I was fixing the floor I did see that the fiberglass wraps under the floor framing. I guess as a water barrier between the truck frame and house frame. I put a link to a video of a Walk Around the rV ,Thanks again.
Similar threads
