hardwiring dometic frig to dc van system

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Virgil Jones

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I looked for a thread I thought I remembered about removing the dc "cigarette lighter" plug end of the cord for the Dometic cfx-50 frig and wiring the end into the circuit panel.  Any thoughts on this.  Is there a fuse in the dc plug end of the Dometic cord and, if so, will the appropriate fuse in the panel work as well.  I seem to remember the discussion was that the direct wiring was a better connection than the dc "cigarette lighter" plug?

Or, would it be even better to make my own cord with a heavier gauge wire?  I would have to figure out the plug end that goes into the Dometic.

Any thoughts or experience?
 
I needed to figure this out too.
After the chat here on the topic., I concluded that I would cut the ciggy lighter charger off the end... bring 10awg from the fuse panel to the wall...then..install a wall plate and Anderson pole

So...that is what I have going
 
Biggest problem with a ciggy plug on a refrigerator is that going over a bump or running on a rough road can cause it to come out, and you won't know that your fridge isn't running til the next time you open it.
 
Ciggy plugs suck, even if they do not wiggle loose they will eventually fail from heating.

Either cut the cord and run it to nearby fusblock via thick wire, or do not cut the cord, figure out the polarity on the 12v input on fridge, and find a way to secure fat wire to the 12v receptacle on fridge.

Do not be afraid to use fat wire, but 10awg should be good for 10 to 14 feet or so, one way.

Danfoss does not indicate the use of anything thinner than 12 awg no matter how short a length. The 16AWG and ciggy plug cords provided with portable compressor fridges are a crime against electricity, logic, and common sense.

http://files.danfoss.com/TechnicalInfo/Dila/06/bd35-50f_electronic_unit_ac-dc_04-2009_ei100g402.pdf

If one insists on using ciggy plugs/ receptacles on items that can draw 60 watts or more, at least use the Blue seas versions which will not wiggle loose, and feed the receptacle with 10AWG or thicker directly from house battery fuse block.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/1015/12_Volt_Plug_with_Dash_Socket
 
I also cut the cord! At first I thought I would just get the kit for thirty bucks.
Then I said whatever, and I cut mine off.

I hard wired the fridge end to 10awg stranded up, over, and down to my new 12v
Distribution panel with a 10 amp fuse.

My thought was that if I wanted to use the fridge outside the van I would need a new cable.

Again, I thought, whatever, never mind.

So, that's how I'm rolling soon enough!
 
In terms of cutting the DC cord, how do you know which wire is neg/pos to be able to hook it up to my fuse box?
 
On my Dometic, the wire with the ribs/grooves in the plastic insulation goes to ground (-). It has been working that way for years.
 
You can google cigarette plug positive negative and it will pull up a diagram
 

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