hardwire cig lighter

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desert_sailing

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I need/want to extend the length of my fridge a couple feet and watched a couple vids including will prouse one on how to do so.

I want to be sure of the positive and negative wires and included a picture here of the guts of the plug.

None of the folks showing the how to zoom in and so it is NOT entirely clear.

I assume the negative is the "silver" colored  large metal spring that sticks out the sides when the plug is inserted.. and the positive wire is hte small "copperish" metal connector that ran up the center of the plug?

Do yall agree?

I don't see anywhere that indicates the wire size.. kinda looks like 16?.. if I use the wrong wire size is there going to be an issue..if I used 14 instead of 16.

I am adding a couple feet more to the length.. not sure if that is going to be an issue either..

any suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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"I assume the negative is the "silver" colored large metal spring that sticks out the sides when the plug is inserted.. and the positive wire is hte small "copperish" metal connector that ran up the center of the plug?"

correct

highdesertranger
 
I really hate to use ciggy plugs as they tend to disconnect on their own. There are much better directional plugs with red and black wires to make things easier. A cheap multimeter with an ohms function (less than $10) can save you making mistakes and burning up stuff especially with two black wires. With an ohm meter you can check for proper connections before you plug it in.
 
The only issue with a bigger wire size is getting it to fit through the grommet where the wire feeds through into the plug. I just wired up a couple of those accessory plugs this summer using 14 gauge. I bought my plugs at West Marine. I have no idea what the wire gauge size is for ones they might be selling at an auto parts store. I try to stick to buying such things from marine supply sources for hopefully better resistance to corrosion. Corrosion of course is a real enemy for electrical contacts.
 
desert_sailing said:
any suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks.
d_s  I have converted to below for "semi permanent connection"  things like frig, etc. Small fans,  I still use the cig plug. Trouble with the cig plug is all of the current is flowing through a point and the plug is trying to push itself out of the socket with the spring behind the point. Any vibration helps the spring push  the plug out.
AMAZON........SAE Connector, Electop Solar Weatherproof SAE Socket Sidewall Port, SAE Cable Quick Connect Panel Mount Universal Flush-Mountable Connector for Solar Generator Battery Charger with 8 Screws(2 Pack)
 

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Sorry that my original post was soo convoluted to not be clear.

I am actually removing the cig lighter plug from my fridge, extending the wires to hard wire it into my fuse block.

I looked on the fridge wires and it was indicating 16awg printed along the cord... super super tiny printing. I therefore used an additional lenght of 16 awg to extend the wiring.

I  looked at the wire guage/fuse/lenght charts, which I have  posted here for reference. Either the chart is not correct or the manufacturer of my fridge is missing something...

The chart would seem to indicate that at 0-20 feet and a 15 amp fuse I would need 14awg. The actual appliance cord is about 10 feet and is using  16awg and the manual indicates using a 15 amp fuse.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

Soo... LOL..the fridge comes with a 16 awg cord is a 20 foot run and wants a 15amp fuse. This is not how the chart shows but it is what I have to use.

Am I entirely missing something here...
 
I don’t see any reason why you can’t use a heavier gauge wire for your addition, even replacing the majority of the 20’ run.

The quality of the splice is likely more important. If you use a good quality detachable you can keep the ciggy plug, if needed. A good fixed or detached connection will require a crimper.
 
A day late and a dollar short.. :D

I sat around watching little house last nite and added the additional length of 16awg to the fridge cord, ala crimped butt connector.

I haven't yet  put the eye connectors on the end nor connected it to power.

Are you suggesting that i cut the manufacturers cord somewhat near the "into appliance" end and go with a thicker wire.. maybe 12.?or maybe 10?

There would be no issue with a large wire strung at some distance shunting into a much smaller wire right before entry to the appliance?

Would I have problems like..fire or ruin the fridge if I kept  the wires as is at 16awg.

Thanks DL..and whether your a day late or a dollar short.. I appreciate you taking the time, it is always good to see you! :thumbsup:
 
Nothing bad happens by using heavier wire. Manufacturers seldom use any thicker than necessary wire to keep costs down. Direct Current does not travel distances well so helping it with thicker wire is good. The appliance will only use what it was designed to use unless it malfunctions. Fuses protect wires. Using the factory recommended fuse with thicker wires will just increase the safety factor. Thinner wire and high resistance connections will be the first to fail if the fuse is too large but since you are using the factory recommended fuse for the thinner wire you should be good as long as you made good crimp connections.
 
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