Greetings from Boise, Idaho!

[BrandonW]

As a follow-up to the “wiring diagram” that I shared, I think one point will be important.The diagram shows two wires: For the Ignitor and For the interior lighting.

MY fridge DOES NOT have an electric ignightor. On base of the fridge are three controllers:

• Piezo “press-button” ignightor;
• Pilot button for the gas; and
• Fridge controller (12V, Off, Electric, Off, and Gas).

I hope this helps!

 

[DannyB1954]

That ignition coil in the diagram is the coil that powers your engine spark plugs. They are just using that coil as a place to get power to actuate the solenoid that powers the refrigerator.
Find the round cylinder that has a spark plug type wire coming off the end of it that goes to the distributor. That is the coil that is in the wire diagram. In tiny raised letters next to the other 2 terminals, (with regular wires attached to them), there will be a + and the other one will have a -. The one with a + should have two wires attached. One wire comes from the ignition switch, the other wire goes to activate the solenoid that gives power to your refrigerator.

That other thing labeled breaker point in the diagram is the points inside of the distributor. Forget about that thing. It has nothing to do with the refrigerator.

 

[BrandonW]

That other thing labeled breaker point in the diagram is the points inside of the distributor. Forget about that thing. It has nothing to do with the refrigerator.

Hi Danny,
As a follow-up, over the last weekend, I did the following:

• Changed the air filter;
• Changed the Crankcase Pressure Valve;
• Changed the oil; 
• Changed the oil filter; and
• Changed the plugs. (well, all but the furthest forward on the passenger side. I don't know how to get at that one).

In that process, I never could find the coil.

I was not super happy with the state of condition of some of the ignition wires I was connecting to the new plugs, so I decided this morning to pull as much of the air cleaner apparatus out, and see if that would give me access to the distributor. It did, and it also revealed the coil!

My problem is that the wires almost immediately go into a big black wiring harness, and I have no idea where it goes from there.

Amps? Ohms? Watts? Volts? 1.21 gigawats? None of it makes any sense to me.

I think I will take this in and have somebody who knows what they are doing take it from here.

Thank you for trying your best! I really liked your comment after you simplified it down! That was a great effort, but my knowledge level is just not were it needs to be on this task.

 

[B and C]

[*]Changed the plugs. (well, all but the furthest forward on the passenger side. I don't know how to get at that one).

[*]

The front spark plug(s) are changed from behind the front wheel.  Turn wheel all the way to the right for right side access and all the way left for drivers side access.

 

[A Savage Adventure]

Amps? Ohms? Watts? Volts? 1.21 gigawats? None of it makes any sense to me.

As an EE who ran a project website I found myself explaining this a lot and found the follow image to help greatly in understanding the some of Ohm's law (results may vary).



This link attempts to explain it in plumbing terms: https://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm

 

[DannyB1954]

Yep that is the coil. it looks like two wires are connected to one side, so the next task is find the solenoid that it feeds. It is probably somewhere easy to get at as installers do not like standing on their heads if they don't need to. It could be a black relay but most likely a silver cylinder looking thing with 4 wires coming off of it. Two small and two larger wires.

 

[BrandonW]

You all are AWESOME!

I am going to change that dang front spark plug TONIGHT!

I am also going to try and find that solenoid. 

I all also read that link on understanding electronics.

The more you know, the more you know!

Thank you all for not throwing in the towel!

Respectfully,

Brandon

 

[BrandonW]

[*]

The front spark plug(s) are changed from behind the front wheel.  Turn wheel all the way to the right for right side access and all the way left for drivers side access.

[*]
Thank you! I got all of the plug wires changed last night, and was also able to replace that front plug on the passenger side.

<Insert "Thumbs Up" emoji here>

 

[BrandonW]

[*]
Thank you! I got all of the plug wires changed last night, and was also able to replace that front plug on the passenger side.

<Insert "Thumbs Up" emoji here>

[*]

It has (professionally) been determined that the fridge IS getting power, the 12V coil is bad.

I was told that the 12V coil does not have a long shelf life, and to learn how to use the fridge without that feature.

Kinda bummed, but it is what it is.

 

[DannyB1954]

If that coil in the wiring diagram was bad, your vehicle would not run. The coil itself has nothing to do with the refrigerator. They are just using one of the terminals as a splice point to get power.
Did you find the solenoid that feeds the refrigerator? Maybe I should explain what the solenoid does. It is an electrical switch. It uses low amperage power to close a set of contacts that allow higher amperage current to flow to another device. So the solenoid needs two different power supplies to work. One to actuate the solenoid and one to supply power to the device it is feeding.
If your refrigerator is getting power at the large red and white wires we will need to see the wire diagram that is on the back side of the refrigerator.

 

[closeanuf]

On the trailer I used to have I unhooked the battery because the converter that kept it charged was making a noise I didn't like.  The refrigerator was plugged into 110 but it stopped working.  Then I heard what sounded like water dripping I tracked it to a black box on the back of the refrigerator.  I hooked the battery back up, the clicking stopped and the refrigerator started working again.  I figured out I need 12Vdc to run my refrigeratior even when plugged into 110Vac.

 

[BrandonW]

If your refrigerator is getting power at the large red and white wires we will need to see the wire diagram that is on the back side of the refrigerator.

Yes, the refrigerator IS getting power at the red and white wires at the back of the unit. It is the heating element that they told me was bad.

I will take a better picture of the diagram that is on the back of the unit.

Brandon

 

[DannyB1954]

That is a relatively cheap and easy fix. Are these the same people that told you your coil was bad?

 

[BrandonW]

That is a relatively cheap and easy fix. Are these the same people that told you your coil was bad?

I took it to an automotive place that specializes in electronics.

They told me that the heating ELEMENT was bad. Me, not being a mechanic, said the wrong thing.

This is my diagram from the back of the unit. I tried several times, and this was about as good of a photo that I could take.

(On a side note, we did over 800 miles in it this past weekend. As long as the fridge starts cold, and we minimize the times we open the door, I was pretty impressed with how efficient it actually was. When we would stop for a couple of hours, I would fire up the propane, and things stayed pretty cool in there.)

 

[DannyB1954]

The heating element should be a cheap fix. It looks like there are two elements, one for 12V and another for 120v. You want the one marked "f"
There may be an after marker heater cheaper than getting it through a dealer. I can't read the full model number, so can't help with a web search. I found several different elements the most expensive was $100. Most were around $75. With the part you should be able to do the job. There are only two wires and it doesn't matter how they are installed, (not polarity sensitive).

You can fill any empty space in the reefer with water bottles the day before and it will also help keep the temps down while traveling until you repair the unit.

 

[B and C]

I took it to an automotive place that specializes in electronics.

You have a Dometic RM2300 according to the plate you posted.
OK.  Here is a link to the troubleshooting and diagnostic manual:
https://www.nwrvsupply.com/manuals/dometic_man_ref_diagnostic.pdf

Here is the operation manual: View attachment RM2300.pdf

 

[BrandonW]

You have a Dometic RM2300 according to the plate you posted.
OK.  Here is a link to the troubleshooting and diagnostic manual:
https://www.nwrvsupply.com/manuals/dometic_man_ref_diagnostic.pdf

Here is the operation manual: 

I'd like this this to be able to be "cooling" within the refrigerator while we are mobile.

I am not feeling super smart right now though.

B and C, in that Trouble Shooting and Diagnostic manual that you linked, I see trouble shooting for:

• No Operation (that is not it, because it does work on shore power, and LG);
• No 120V AC operation (that is not it, because it will work with shore/generator power:
• No Gas, Peizo (it does work in "Gas" mode, and I don't have the auto setting, so the peizo is how I light it, and that works);
• No Gas. Auto lighter (not in play, as mine is peizo lit).

I am not seeing a 12V trouble shooting section.

Am I missing it somewhere else?

Thank you,

Brandon

 

[B and C]

Simple steps. Googled it.

After it has been running on 12v for around 2 hrs can you still feel heat coming from the chimney cover on the outside of the van....

If Yes then it is working on 12v just not as good as expected..

If No then there is a chance the 12v side of the element is blown or you have a wiring problem..

A decent digital voltmeter (DVM) that has an Ohms setting.

If you don't know how to use a DVM or follow the schematic and wire colors, ask someone for help.

Tough to do over the internet.

 

[DannyB1954]

Trouble shooting is over. A shop that does electrical work told you it was the 12 volt heating element. You can replace that, or get an inverter and run the reefer in AC mode. Make sure the battery that feeds the inverter gets power from the vehicle's alternator.