Got a van finally!

[Almost There]

I was doing lots of research on insulation. I do plan on almost gutting the interior, to the best of my ability and adding maybe reflectix along with either a foam insulation or the fluffy kind found in hardware stores. Any recommendations?

Nix on the fluffy stuff.... - I presume you mean the pink fiberglass insulation... It absorbs moisture and isn't the most effective insulation on the market. And it itches...really itches - I had to pull a house full out of my van when I gutted it.

Reflectix is a radiant heat barrier not an insulation product (there's a difference) and must have a dead air space between it and the wall of the van. I used bubble wrap on mine to create the air space. The best recommendation that I can find around here is to use polyiso sheet for insulation. By using the 1/2" thick sheets they can be flexed to accommodate the curves in the walls of the van. Then you add another layer of 1/2". How much you add will depend on cost/benefit and what the weather you will encounter will be like. Me, I'm chasing the sun so all I did was the radiant heat barrier with a plan that will allow for further insulation if I find I need it.

 

[ilovemyvan]

I used Rustoleum (paint and clear coat) on the back door after fixing a dent and on the roof because the sun had discolored it badly. I would not recommend it. I'm satisfied with the back door because good enough is good enough but I wouldn't want my whole van looking that way. The roof didn't last at all. It faded away in no time in the FL sun, similar to GA.

Last spring we did paint the roof ourselves with paint, clear coat, degreaser ect...from a professional supplier. It came to about $250. It turned out ok but it certainly is not professional looking. It's acceptable because you can't actually see all the mistakes, but I would be very sad if the whole van looked like that. If you choose to go that route, make sure that your air compressor is big enough otherwise you will have to stop all the time for your compressor to build back pressure. Also keep in mind that going from dark color to light will require a lot more paint to cover all the dark. It might turn out to be quite pricey.

I was considering a roll on product for the roof but I couldn't match the color. It's called Monstaliner http://www.magnetpaints.com/bedliner1.asp Glen from tosimplify.net used that to paint the exterior of is VW and he's very pleased with the results.

I don't know if you are considering solar panels on the roof eventually but if I'm not mistaken that would kind of create it's own shade and help with the heat even if the van is black. If you look at it from a $ point of view, the $ you would save on the paint by leaving it black probably could buy you a few solar panels. Killing 2 birds with one stone.

Decisions, decisions, decisions.....Good luck.

Nicole

 

[KayakGirl]

Have you seen black vans with a white top before? I just don't want it to stand out too much where it sticks out like a sore thumb. Ill definitely look into this though if it will make that big of a difference it is worth it.

Congratulations on getting your van!  My van, Miss Freedom, is a dark green.  I didn't want to get a "skunk" look by putting the white elastomeric on her, but I needed to do something before I eventually put in a roof fan/vent.  I ended up masking off about a two-inch strip around the edges of the roof so the white would be just in the center of the roof couldn't be seen.  Worked great, and it helps a lot.

 

[DannyB1954]

This Youtube Video shows a different insulation that has sound dampening and a higher r value than reflectix.

 

[DreadHeadDrifter]

This Youtube Video shows a different insulation that has sound dampening and a higher r value than reflectix.

Great video thanks for sharing, I might use a combination just to play it safe. I feel like it would be a pain to go back and add more insulation later on if needed so I want to go all out lol. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Almost There]

Great video thanks for sharing, I might use a combination just to play it safe. I feel like it would be a pain to go back and add more insulation later on if needed so I want to go all out lol. Thanks for sharing!

It is a pain if you use full sheets of paneling or wood for on the walls.

I took a different approach to the walls for several reasons. I wanted to have the ability to go back and add insulation later on if I found I needed it. I'm on the little side of body build so handling 4 x 8 sheets of anything is completely out of the question. I also didn't want the 60's recreation room look on the inside of my van...  

Each component in the build has the wall behind it as a separate entity. The kitchen pantry has it's own back wall as does the kitchen counter. The pantry wall didn't need to be finished because the drawers will block it visually. The wall behind the kitchen is painted right now - I found the extremely light weight tiles I want but the price was killing me so they'll have to wait. A few screws will remove any component individually and I can insulate behind it, put it back in place and move on.

You do have to plan for possibilities by leaving enough air space in behind everything so that you can go back but it IS possible.

 

[DannyB1954]

"I might use a combination just to play it safe. I feel like it would be a pain to go back and add more insulation later on if needed so I want to go all out lol".

In some of his other videos he also uses 1/2 of foam over the ultra touch. I don't think using Reflectix would benefit the install. It has little R value, and the Ultra touch already is giving the radiant barrier.  I would also consider using a variation of something called a French Cleat. The cabinets in my garage hang from them. The advantage is that they can be moved anywhere with little fuss. One Video that explains them is here or here
there are many more. It may be necessary to put one screw in the bracket to keep it from bouncing up in a mobile environment.

 

[Almost There]

This Youtube Video shows a different insulation that has sound dampening and a higher r value than reflectix.

I'd never seen the product before so I went looking out of curiousity...I'm like a cat that way...

I can't find any R value attributed to this product. If you know where the link is, I'd appreciate looking at it.

It's mostly touted as being a sound barrier and a radiant heat barrier rather than an insulation.

As with any radiant heat barrier it still requires an air gap between it and the metal of the van wall to become effective.

The sound deadening properties might be nice to have (maybe) but at just under 60 cents a sq. ft plus the cost of providing an air gap, I really have to question using this over the less expensive reflectix.

Oh, and it says it will absorb moisture but it is designed to give that moisture back to the air. Sorry but I'm skeptical about giving it back when it's enclosed between a metal wall and whatever kind of covering one finishes the wall with. Once it's wet in there, it's likely to stay that way IMO.

 

[highdesertranger]

a heads up on that sound barrier, it's cotton. it's going to absorb water like a sponge. outdoor people have a saying "cotton kills", the is because of it's infinity to absorb water and then freeze you to death. you do not want insulation that absorbs and holds water, the only way to dry this out once it gets soaked is to remove it and air dry it. highdesertranger

 

[akrvbob]

The radiant barrier in this use is totally worthless as he acknowledges in the video. Without an air gap it is worthless.

A much better choice would have been 1/2 inch of pink or blue styrofaom which has a much higher R Value and and won't absorb moisture.
Bob

 

[becida]

Nice van & a good deal! We had a '90 GMC, the bed/couch was comfortable and wide enough that I could sleep on it. I have a Ford E250 now and it's not wide enough to sleep sideways.
I'd go along with just polishing what you have, dealing with the inside/conversion and waiting on the paint. FWIW I'm a VW guy, I sold my westy a few years back & still miss it... can't afford one now.

Enjoy the work then enjoy the van!

 

[DannyB1954]

I can't find any R value attributed to this product.
Insulation works by trapping air in between fibers or cells. This product is made from the same material as the batt insulation used in homes which has a high rating per inch. http://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTou...Denim-Insulation-8-Bags-10003-03024/204082536. Bubble rap does not have a high insulation rating, neither does aluminum. If you have several layers of bubble wrap, then you start eliminating airflow within the wall. A single layer does not offer much.

As far as moisture, I guess you would have to use it in an environment where it is out of the weather. Under the floor mats at the front of a van is the same type of fiber soundproofing and insulation right from the factory, (they want to keep engine heat and sound out of the compartment). How often do you remove this matting so it can be dried out?

No insulation is perfect for every application. This is just one tool. Foam has it's drawbacks as well. In an enclosed area like a van, it does off gas fumes. If you have a fire, it puts out toxic fumes and burns rather quickly. The cheaper stuff even melts to fuel the fire at a greater level. Wet fiberglass is not a good insulator either, but in some applications dry fiberglass works well. It stuffs into places you could never put a sheet of anything.

I am not selling this stuff. I only made it's existence known. I refereed to videos of others who found this product useful. Use what ever you like.

 

[DannyB1954]

After thinking about it a while longer, I would like to add something on the insulation moisture issue. Moisture is everywhere there is air. If moisture from condensation gets trapped between a super duper water proof insulation and the metal of your van, eventually you are going to get corrosion, or mold growth. If the insulation can allow the moisture to pass through and evaporate, it does dry out.

Who hasn't spilled something in the drivers section of a vehicle? Nobody tears out the floor to let it dry out. It just eventually takes care of itself. Put a waterproof barrier in there and water gets under, it stays for a long time as it can not evaporate.

All the big auto makers could save a lot of weight and probably money by using using bubble wrap insulation. I bet there is a reason that they don't.

No single insulation takes care of every application. I plan on using a combination on my next project.