fuse panels

[beast]

another question...(probably going to hear that alot from me) im wondering about fuse panels. what sets them apart from each other? what do i look for when i want a durable, high quality fuse box? searched the internet, all i can find is "buy this one" or "buy that one" but not one article as to what makes a fuse box a great fuse box. im wondering about bus, contact point material, etc. any input is welcome, thank you in advance 

 

[MrNoodly]

I got a Blue Sea System fuse panel because it was compact and designed for marine applications which I figured would make it less susceptible to the elements. No problems in the five years I've used it.

 

[highdesertranger]

for fuse panels I like the ones from Blue Sea. they are marine rated as is all there stuff. they have been around a long time and are highly regarded in the marine industry. I have had cheap fuse panels fail. in fact I have a cheap one in my truck right now that has a couple of dead circuits. I have a Blue Sea to replace it just haven't gotten around to it.

the stuff I would absolutely avoid is components for he car stereo a lot of it is cheap junk. also stay clear of residential components. highdesertranger

 

[tx2sturgis]

Blue Sea makes some good ones. But, they are not cheap.


Positive and negative bus, high current capacity, quality materials, spare fuse holder, and a sturdy, curved cover, are ideal features in a vehicle conversion electrical system.

 

[57shasta]

A fuse panel or holder is mechanical electric connection. As with all mechanical connections the words to keep in mind are Clean, Bright, and Tight. They must also be protected to preserve these attributes as best you can.

What makes a fuse fail? Well, other than that big sparky oops you create at the far end, is heat. The heat comes from external sources (engine compartment where you should derate the capacity) or directly from the contact resistance of the mechanical connection of the fuse. When things are new and spiffy they work well. But if fuses get dirty or begin to corrode due to environmental conditions, their contact resistance with the fuse holder starts to go up. This resistance will rob voltage from your load. In addition the voltage this poor contact consumes needs to be dissipated which is in the form of heat. Now you are on a down hill slide. The heat worsens the contact to the point where it starts to burn and pit.

Now two things either will happen. The fuse will open because it is hot and cannot pass the rated current for that circuit, or the contacts will completely fail and leave the fuse intact. That's messy.

So what makes a good fuse holder? Lots of metal. The more contact the fuse has between it and the holder the lesser the contact resistance. It also needs to have a good grip. The tighter the holder has on the fuse the better and helps keep any mung from working its way down into the contact area. Last thing is protection. A cap or sealed cover for the panel is very helpful from keeping any environmental contaminates away from your connections. Although I don't, you can use some goop as a protectant. Never any petroleum product or that spray junk in a can. For electrical connections I use No-Ox ID.

Here's some examples to ponder:

Pic 1 - Good ATC holder. Lots of contact to fuse blades and so tight I have to pound the fuse in with a screwdriver butt.

Pic 2 - OK ATC holder. Just a couple of spade terminals in plastic and fuse goes in and out fairly easily. Both are weather tight with cap.

Pic 3 - Good AGU holder. Good capture of the fuse's end caps and the spring is strong.

Pic 4 - Cheapo "CB" AGU holder. Only contacts small spot on each end of the fuse and spring is wimpy. Good for couple of amps at most.

 

[Weight]

Blue Sea systems.