Final and Critical Questions!

Tao Seeker · Aug 29, 2012

This is it, man. It's nearing my exodus from my current house (Dec. 31st, 2012), and moving into an apartment to live paycheck to paycheck will only cripple -- if not kill -- my chance to transition into van life. I have only months to find, purchase, and modify my van, so I have to act soon. The least I can say is "this is some scary !@#$". Here's the scariest part, and the reason for this post... I am moving into a van in December, and I will be living near Chicago. I have no experience setting up a winter-ready van and, if I don't get it right, I will be in a homeless shelter or dead. Well, I am lucky enough to be an experienced fun-gineer, who has tried to make something from just about everything, and understand the basic principles behind everything I have ever wondered about. This means I have an idea of how to insulate something, how to heat something, how to be safe with fire and compressed gas, how to not suffocate myself, etc. However, my real experience is near null, and the many tips, tricks, and warnings that a wise man can lend are lost. So, I come back to good ol' CheapRVLiving.com to ask my final questions and make sure I am not making any terrible mistakes. To start, I should maybe describe my plan. I have $4000, and will put about $500 each month into the van until I move out on (hopefully) December 21st (yes, the end of the Mayan calendar, and yes, for the sake of style and irony points.) I plan to purchase a van for roughly $3000, leaving me $1000 for an immediate strip-down, clean up, and base modification. I will then use money earned until I move in to purchase accommodations. My base modification is simple: 1. insulate the van (this is the absolute most important thing on the list, given that temperatures WILL, at some point, fall low enough to kill an unprepared man in his sleep, and even approx. -10F (once in a blue moon). 2. Construct an interior wall, which is structurally capable of attaching heavy components to via screws or bolts (I will need to harness dangerous items like my batteries and any compressed gasses, as well as my desktop PC for shock absorbing purposes if I can't buy a laptop before moving in). 3. Replace any unreliable parts like worn tires, an old battery, etc. Accommodations will be things like my 12V system, some of which will be afforded during the base modification. All of that said, I have my questions and here they are... How meticulous should my insulation job be? Should I buy great stuff and fill every space I can find, or could I get away with basic foam panels? Maybe I should even find a way to insulate the windows? What kind of insulation is best? I like the pink, rigid panels. I have used it before, and find it easy to work with. Also, I believe it doesn't let moisture through, which I read causes rust in a vehicular application like this. However, I have never actually used it to insulate anything, and have no worthy assessment of its value as van insulation. Money is not an object here... I would rather be without electricity than living in a freezer full-time. Any tips for a newbie on quality insulation? Should I buy a cargo van to create a better, more custom interior, or buy a conversion van to have a pre-made interior? I would image a cargo van allows me more creative choices in insulating and outfitting the van, but costs more to do so. What kind of interior paneling is cost effective (for a cargo van)? Wood would probably work, but may encounter problems with mold, rot, etc. Plastic sounds expensive and might need to be custom fit. I can use something thinner and lighter, and add a structure behind it that allows me to attach things to my walls if needed. Any ideas on quality panels for the interior wall? Is using propane really dangerous? I understand the fearful reaction to having an explosively flammable gas compressed to an explosively high  pressure in a hard metal container laying next to you at all times in a moving vehicle... but the actual risks of injury with propane tanks might not be so extreme. If I store the tank in a hard box, and secure it firmly so it cannot move, am I really in any danger for having it? I need to heat my van somehow... To charge a 12V system in the 5th worst place for solar power in the USA, I will depend on my alternator every now and then. Should I consider purchasing a high-output alternator to double the amperage gained per gallon of gas? Will this really make my system electrical system more fuel efficient, and is that really necessary? I understand that the size of my battery counts, but lets just pretend that the battery is big enough to not be the decider here. Finally, I will say that my plan in fact is to not spend any unnecessary winters in a van. I will likely be joining the Renaissance Faire circuit, or some other traveling job that follows the warm weather. However, I cannot leave here this winter due to lack of funds, and I cannot put off the van without risking getting stuck in an apartment unable to save for a van again. Also, I apologize for asking questions which may have been asked and answered elsewhere; the worries that burden me do so because I have only been reading Q&A this whole time, and these worries will remain until I can get some answers and advice for me directly. Thank you to everybody who reads this, and extra extra thanks for those who can offer me some advice.

wildmountainhoney · Aug 29, 2012

Hi Tao! Have you seen Bob's book? It is only 3 bucks on amazon and answers lots of those questions. What is cool about it is he lists your different options as far as insulation, batteries, type of vehicle and other valuable stuff and then you can decide what will work for you... So maybe that would be useful for ya? It is called, How to live n a Car, Van or RV... anyway it's really helpful and you will have a reference tool.... I'm sure lots of people will help on here too... I just really have enjoyed all the valuable info in it.. Best of luck to you and your new future!

Les H · Aug 29, 2012

Hi Tao, I'll do y best to answer your questions. my answers are based on 26 years as a builder and remodeler in upstate Ny ( similar climate to Chicago) and as a backyard mechanic who, if I can get it off, I can usually fix it. I've also rebuilt my 69 Shasta travel trailer, and done all the mods to my bus thus far.
1. Insulation- the pink foam will do fine, 1" = about a r factor of 5, 2" around 10. BUT, if you use 2", you loose about 5" (2" on either side of the van ,plus 1/2" airspace on either side). Add even 1/4" Luan paneling and you have given up almost 6" of the interior width. Spray foam hard to reach areas. Fiberglass batts will work too, but don't stuff them in, tuck them loosely. If you pack them in too tight, they lose thier effectiveness.do not make the mistake of making your space ( room, house, van,etc.) too tight, it should "breathe" some to exchange stale air and carbon monoxide (heating) and dioxide ( breathing) as well as release moisture buildup from both. 1x4 strips screwed to the structural ribs of the van will give you attachment points almost anywhere you might need them for cubbards, etc. A self tapping machine screw with a washer works well.
2-cargo vs.conversion.
Cargo,- bare bones, no frills, already stripped, not locked into someone else's
"plan" easier to insulate and build .
Conversion- plusher, more creature comforts, usually some auxiliary electrical is included, as well as some sound deadening. ( can't have families going deaf on road trips). More plastic, trim and fake woodgrain to remove to get to structure
for cabinets, paneling and insulation.some use the conversions just as they come, but probably don't over nights north of the Mason-Dixon line.
3-paneling. I like Luan. Can be painted, bent around curves of the van body,
easy to cut and work with, and relatively cheap.NO SHEETROCK!!! Frp ( fiberglass reinforced panel, like in commercial bathrooms) is a good, durable, waterproof panel, but at almost $40 for a 4x8 sheet, kina pricey, brittle for tight bends and trikier to cut and work with.
4 propane-
Been used in rv's since the 30's. YES, it can be dangerous if mishandled or if you let your guard down., but then, you are sitting 10' from 15-20 gallons of highly volatile, explosive gasoline, and think nothing of it. I ran Mu own propane lines, (I have plumbing certifications) , but IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE with this, GET A PRO TO DO THIS PART OF THE BUILD. no one will think
less of you, and YOU HAVE THE PEACE OF MIND. a propane detector ( and a smoke/carbon monoxide detector, for that matter) should be part of your build. A
handy person should be able to do a decent job with off the shelf hoses and connecters from ace hardware, just don't test for leaks with a match or lighter, soapy water in a spray bottle works better. Hard copper lines are trickier, and you need a few specialized tools, tubing cutter, and a tube flare tool. Also , if you are caring your 20# tank inside your van, in a ( sealed) cabinent or cubbard, make sure to include a drain vent. That's right, a DRAIN, as in down. Propane is heavier than air, and will sink to the lowest part of the van and fill it UP from there without a way for it to escape.
5 - Charging. Most people start off with the stock altanator and a continuous duty solenoid to charge the house battery. Beyond that , there is 110v chargers, they require a regular plug in to keep the battery up. Also, there is solar, kinda pricey, but usually a one time purchase, and silent, always running in "the background". There are charts and tables to decipher how much solar you need to power any given item. And generators, can be much less than solar, or, as in a Honda 2000 ( considered the Cadillac) , about the same or even more. I am a part timer at present, weekends, week long jaunts, working out of town m-f, etc. I have 2 deep cycles, ( 1 house, 1 starting, 225 ah total. 3 years,20kmi, Ny winter and Alabama summer, no problems) a small ( 45w harbor freight) solar setup on my roof, and a 1850w Coleman genny as a backup.
Whew! My longest post, I think!
Hope it helps!

Sunny1 · Aug 29, 2012

Awesome post, Les.  Would like to see it be a sticky.  <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle">

yesican · Aug 29, 2012

That was a great post Les.  I have one question about insulation and that's the foam insulation that is blow in.  It would be best to have a professional install it, and isn't cheap, but it certainly seals up every nook and cranny.  What do you think about that type of insulation? Rae

Les H · Aug 30, 2012

Sunny, aw, shucks (embarassed) thanks
Rae- i was hoping more people would chime in, dont want to hog the thread. Spray foam, especially the newer soy based stuff would be great if you can afford to have it done ( very specialized ,expensive equipment), and unfortunatly, i have never used one of the kits to be able to make a comment
one way ot the other. I have HEARD of someone doing a whole van with the spray cans of great stuff, but at $3-4 each can, not cheap either and very time cinsiming, and tons of toxic gasses , if you are sensitive. Look in "seen on the road" under my name and there are pics of a white chevy express hightop that was set up for animal transport. It was foamed, though i donrt know the cost.

Les H · Aug 30, 2012

Tao, Akbob, and Bk2valve have both lived in alaska for several years in vehicles, perhaps reading up on them or sending a private mail might get you more specific information as to brands, manufacturers, insulation, etc. Also look up cold weather survival blogs and websites. Ive stayed in my van wth no heat or special insulation in the mid 20's, but not -10.
Forgot to add- your budget is do-able, if your careful and do most of tge work yourself. This is where doing your homework is critical, dont want to do it, rip it out, and do it again.

Seraphim · Aug 30, 2012

One note to Les' great post - I've owned conversion vans and they're not well insulated. I suspect you'd want to take out the interior, add insulation, which is double work and more cost for the coversion van. I'd recommend a bare bones work van and build it as you want it.

Vern M · Aug 30, 2012

Hate to bust your panic-stricken bubble, but you have too many questions and not enough time to get 'er done without painful, tragic or at least many mistakes. I'd find a source for some tranqulizers, a place to rent a heated garage that'd fit you and van through a miserable Illinois winter (all are in Illinois to my thinking) and settle back in your sleeping bag, with hot plate and port-a-potti and read your way through the time after finding the best possible van you can. Now, see, wouldn't that make a better plan? BTW, I own a conversion van and have been very comfortable in it well down into the 20-degree range with its standard insulation and a 1K oil filled heater. Humidity is a worse problem than cold.

IGBT · Aug 30, 2012

I know you said you can't leave this winter because of lack of funds, but unless you just have some excellent job in Illinois, I would try really hard to bum a ride or take a bus down to Georgia.  Buy your van somewhere around there (I grew up in Georgia, everything there is cheap, my mom and dad rent a nice 3bd house for $400 a month).  Then head down to Florida, get a job somewhere touristy like Orlando, and stay nice and comfy in your non-insulated van all winter while your friends in Chicago freeze their *&# off. Just my $0.02

Guest · Aug 30, 2012

... unless you just have some excellent job in Illinois, I would try really hard to bum a ride or take a bus down to Georgia. 

I agree with this sentiment entirely. I know nothing of Georgia, but in general, moving around is fantastic!

Les H · Aug 30, 2012

IGBT said:
I know you said you can't leave this winter because of lack of funds, but unless you just have some excellent job in Illinois, I would try really hard to bum a ride or take a bus down to Georgia.  Buy your van somewhere around there (I grew up in Georgia, everything there is cheap, my mom and dad rent a nice 3bd house for $400 a month).  Then head down to Florida, get a job somewhere touristy like Orlando, and stay nice and comfy in your non-insulated van all winter while your friends in Chicago freeze their *&# off. Just my $0.02

not so fast- not much work going on down here either, and pay scale is 2/3 whar it is up north. Cheaper rent, gas and heating through the winter, but cars and trucks cost the same , if not more. I moved here to alabama from ny after 4/27/11 tornados.

Tao Seeker · Aug 31, 2012

Thanks so much for the responses, everyone. I am not too worried about the viability of someone living in a van during the winter, but, as I said in the original post, it's these tips and bits of knowledge that I don't have which make me worry about trying it myself. WildMountainHoney, thank you for the reference. I will certainly read these books. I had no idea Bob had all of his knowledge and ideas archived in a format I could just open up and read. This will help immensely. Les H, thank you so much for the descriptive and thought out response. Advice like this makes more of a difference than hours or days of newbie research and brainstorming. I love that the pink foam insulation is viable. I have worked with the stuff before in ways from gluing it together and cutting it apart to sanding it to complex shapes. It's wonderful stuff, and I can cut it to fit shapes easily. The supports for the van's body is where I plan to use great stuff, if it really is necessary; it's these small details like insulating boundaries and doors which may be a waste of money or may be critical for keeping myself warm, and I just don't know which. A cargo van has been the plan from the beginning. The conversion van alternative only creeps up on me when I think of how much more comfortable it would be for the first few months or so while I would still be developing a cozy interior for a cargo van. As for your paneling advice, any mention of materials besides wood is extremely helpful. I honestly have never touched a project that involved building walls or a rigid shell for large rooms/objects before and, therefore, I have no idea what is out there and what anything is called. I will look up Luan and fiberglass reinforced panels. I have always trusted propane. I know my basic facts about chemicals, compressed gases, and fire, and I know that propane tanks which are kept in a stable (both physically and temperately) area are very safe. I did not know, however, if there is a catch to keeping one indoors. Your tip that propane sinks is something I would have overlooked. I will likely just secure the tank with straps and keep it in a box to avoid anything falling onto it or me turning it on by mistake or in my sleep (you never know!). Perhaps something to warn me of pressure build up in that box, too, but I don't know of too many spontaneously leaky propane tanks. Also, I totally failed to consider installing the gas lines. I will at least talk to a professional, but the only two lines I need are for the heater and the stove, so maybe I can manage this myself with some helpful advice and a handy family to double check my work. As for you final advice on charging a battery... I was hoping that I could use an aftermarket alternator to convert my engine into an almost cost effective generator, in case I can't afford or rely upon solar power. There are alternators out there that offer more amperage at idle than a stock alternator will give at 2k rpm. I will crunch my numbers again to determine my needs and how long my engine will have to run to keep my charged with stock and aftermarket. Thanks again for the informative post. I try to keep my lengthy posts formatted and intelligible so that helpful people like yourself are able to understand my questions without wasting your time. Vern M, your advice is heeded. I am buying my van soon no matter what, and will be spending all of my money working on it. I will begin outfitting it for winter assuming it will be done in time, but I am not stupid enough to jump into the cold if it isn't. Should the van not be complete, I have a full-time job and can find a setup like you described even after spending my saved money on the van. I prepare myself for the cold every winter with cold showers, rolled down windows, and a light jacket. I consider anything above 40 degrees to be comfortable, and wear only a light jacket; in fact, a human can survive in 40 degree weather indefinitely in light clothing (provided nourishment), I read somewhere. I don't doubt that I can handle the cold, but I still understand that temperatures as low as they get here provide a threat to my health that no mental endurance can overcome. IGBT, I actually have family in Georgia. My father lives near Douglasville, and boasts that the vehicles there are much less rusty than those surviving the salty Chicago winters. It's true, and buying from Georgia is actually a consideration. I have already searched a few times for vehicles down south, and have not only a vehicle but the proper funds to travel down south to pick one up. I understand that a dollar means more down south, and that cars are relatively more expensive (being the same price as they are here). However, from a northern perspective, they are not much more expensive and come with less rust, so buying from the south is a good idea. As for finding a job and sticking around down south, the only issue is security. I will be draining my bank account dry for this van and, if I don't find a job right away (hard in this economy), I will be unable to pay for gas, phone, food, etc. I want to try to keep my current job until I have funds hoarded to live for a few jobless months (just in case). Thanks again, everyone, for the great responses. Time to grab those books and plan as much as I can. I have a lot of shopping around to do...

IGBT · Aug 31, 2012

Cool.  I used to live near Douglasville.  I miss Georgia sometimes, being diagonally as far away from it as possible while staying in the lower 48

If you are set on staying in Illinois, I like the idea suggested of the bare bones cargo van (with raised roof if possible).  Fill it full of insullation and get a bucket to poop in.   I don't think you have enough time (with work and all) to strip down and rebuild a class B.  Still think you are going to freeze your nuts off and are crazy to spend $4000 on a van there instead of $300 travel expenses and $3700 on a van down south and live in Florida for the winter heh heh.  But I do understand that having a job is a lot better than setting off for somewhere not knowing if you can find a job.  Good luck to you!

Journeyman · Aug 31, 2012

Tao, I would suggest that you do not use great stuff in the doors because it can cause locks and door cables to become frozen in place. This doesn't always happen, but if it does, digging all that stuff out of there will drive you crazy. Batts are safest for doors and can get into all the nooks and crannies.

Mortisha · Aug 31, 2012

All I can say is good luck in whatever you chose to do. I for one hate the cold and think I would die LOL HuggZ

Seraphim · Aug 31, 2012

'Tish

It's easier to get warm than it is to get cooled down, IMO

DW and I LIKE the cold

Tao Seeker · Aug 31, 2012

IGBT, I'm afraid the amount of money I have saved makes keeping my current job imperative, unless I wish to sacrifice funds for the van. Journeyman, I also considered this, and ways to protect the mechanisms in the door, but if I can get fiberglass in there, that is a good idea. Despite being raised by an extremely handy family involved heavily in auto-body and mechanics, I somehow have no idea if I can access the inside of a door without cutting metal. I know that there are holes in the body of the door behind the paneling, and maybe I can manage to stuff some insulation in there which can be removed later if needed. Thanks, Mortisha. I practice cold weather living as part of self reliance and perhaps a slightly inflated ego (it's beneficial none the less). Seraphim, I agree that cold is more convenient. Warming up is a matter of blankets, while cooling down is a matter of powered compressors and/or chemical processes. In fact, one of the reasons I am bothering with such an intense insulation process is because around here we get heat waves, too. Now and then we'll get weather above 100 degrees. So, I plan to purchase a portable air conditioner. I am aware, however, that the energy costs of running a portable air conditioner can be taxing for a simple 12V system... so I am insulating my van mostly to increase the efficiency of staying cool in the summer. The reason I don't just use my van's AC is simple: if the engine is running to power the AC and is also generating electricity, then I should use that otherwise wasted electricity to generate even more AC. I once considered finding a company that insulates vans for temperature sensitive cargo. Things like ice cream trucks or food delivery... perhaps such a company exists around here where I can find some more advice...

akrvbob · Sep 1, 2012

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oNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w

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ontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument></xml><![endif]-->I lived in a van in Anchorage, AK for 6 years and managed to stay very warm and comfortable, so it can be done. While Anchorage isn't the coldest part of Alaska, it got done to -30 every winter at least once and below zero was routine. I am well aware there are many ways to do something, this is just what worked for me and I think will work for you. First let me give you my recommended shopping list for living in extreme cold:<ol><li>A cargo van and (not a conversion van) with a divider wall between the front and the back, and the minimum number of windows. If at all possible you want a 1996 or newer with the fewest number of miles you can afford. I prefer the Dodge with a 318 V8.</li><li>An Olympian Wave 3 catalytic heater</li><li>Two 20 lb propane bottles, a regulator and 15 feet of hose.</li><li>Multiple layers of synthetic clothes. No cotton! Fleece is good for everything except the outer vest and coat which can be down. You want to start with a base layer of thin tight-fitting clothes for the legs and upper body. Then add a thicker looser fitting middle layer and finally a thicker, bulkier, looser fitting outer layer. As it cools down or warms up and or shed layers.</li></ol>I'll answer your questions in line and in RED:Here's the scariest part, and the reason for this post... I am moving into a van in December, and I will be living near Chicago. I have no experience setting up a winter-ready van and, if I don't get it right, I will be in a homeless shelter or dead. Really, staying warm isn’t that hard. Here are the Key points: 1) creating warmth in the van 2) insulating so it stays inside 3) weather-stripping to eliminate air infiltration,4) adding more layers of clothes as it gets colder, shedding layers as it gets warmer.How meticulous should my insulation job be? Should I buy great stuff and fill every space I can find, or could I get away with basic foam panels? Maybe I should even find a way to insulate the windows? You should do all three! Since you are buying a cargo van squirt the Great Stuff spray foam into every nook and cranny you can reach. Then cover the roof, walls and windows with at least 2 inches of Styrofoam (details on the next question). Just as important is to use weather-stripping to prevent any air gaps around the doors and walls. Moving air will make you feel much colder than the actual air temperature. What kind of insulation is best? I like the pink, rigid panels. I have used it before, and find it easy to work with. Also, I believe it doesn't let moisture through, which I read causes rust in a vehicular application like this. Money is not an object here... I would rather be without electricity than living in a freezer full-time. Any tips for a newbie on quality insulation? Yes, you want to use Styrofoam. because it is cheap, light, easy to work with and has a high R value. The pink or blue Styrofoam is much better than the white because it is much more durable, will last much longer and is very water resistant. You want to use 4x8 sheets because they will minimize cuts and joints. The thinner sheets like ½ and ¾ inch are very flexible and will bend with the curve of the walls and the roof. Just put in multiple layers Which heater should I buy? Can I use it at night? When I lived in Alaska I always used Olympian catalytic heaters. A true catalytic heater uses a chemical reaction instead of a flame and they produce virtually no carbon monoxide. I turned mine on in October and it ran 24-7 until April. The only time I turned it off was to change propane bottles. The Mr. Buddy Portable Heaters are very good heaters but they are not catalytic heaters. If you are going to run it 24-7, buy the Olympian Wave 3 heater instead<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57331-O...45916&sr=8-1&keywords=olympian+wave+3">http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57331-O...45916&sr=8-1&keywords=olympian+wave+3</a>Or do a Google search on “Olympian Wave 3 Heater.”Should I buy a cargo van to create a better, more custom interior, or buy a conversion van to have a pre-made interior? I would imagine a cargo van allows me more creative choices in insulating and outfitting the van, but costs more to do so. The only reason to buy a conversion van is if you want a high-top, for your purpose of living in very cold weather, a cargo van is much better for several reasons: 1) Direct access to the walls allows you to fill them with Great Foam insulation 2) It’s much easier to attach Styrofoam and paneling to the walls if you can easily find the ribs 3) All the Styrofoam you are going to add is going to take up a lot of interior room. Cargo vans waste even more space with all their plastic and wood trim. That’s space you can’t afford to lose. 4) Buying a cargo van with a dividing wall between front driving area and back living area makes insulating the wall much easier. Be sure the van you buy has one and insulate it with at least 2 inches of styrofoam. Pay special attention to get a good seal around the roof, wall and floor What kind of interior paneling is cost effective (for a cargo van)? Wood would probably work, but may encounter problems with mold, rot, etc. Plastic sounds expensive and might need to be custom fit. I can use something thinner and lighter, and add a structure behind it that allows me to attach things to my walls if needed. Any ideas on quality panels for the interior wall? Why add paneling at all, why not just leave it plain? If you need the nicer looks of paneling, just buy the cheapest stuff you can at Home Depot and slap it on. Another option is Luan (also called doorskin). You will need to stain it before installation.Is using propane really dangerous? I understand the fearful reaction to having an explosively flammable gas compressed to an explosively high pressure in a hard metal container laying next to you at all times in a moving vehicle... but the actual risks of injury with propane tanks might not be so extreme. If I store the tank in a hard box, and secure it firmly so it cannot move, am I really in any danger for having it? I need to heat my van somehow... Yes, propane is extremely dangerous! However, life is extremely dangerous, I am amazed any of us live through the day. I agree with you that the actual risk of having propane inside is very small. In 10 years of vandwelling I have had a propane tank inside of my vehicle 100% of the time, and I think the risk is very small. You have a very good plan, just keep the tank in a secure box that can’t move in an accident and you will be fine.To charge a 12V system in the 5th worst place for solar power in the USA, I will depend on my alternator every now and then. Should I consider purchasing a high-output alternator to double the amperage gained per gallon of gas? No, don’t buy a high capacity alternator, it is just a waste of money for two reasons: 1) Deep cycle batteries should only be charged at 10% of their amp-hour capacity (for example, 20 amps maximum charge for a 200 ah battery). Any more will damage the battery. 2) The voltage regulator will stop charging as soon as the starting battery is full, if it doesn’t it will damage the starting battery. Buy this DC to DC charger and you can keep your house battery charged and healthy:<a href="http://www.techbatterysolutions.com...p;gdftrk=gdfV23665_a_7c1669_a_7c7827_a_7cC008">http://www.techbatterysolutions.com...p;gdftrk=gdfV23665_a_7c1669_a_7c7827_a_7cC008</a>If the link doesn’t work do a Google search for a “ctek d250s battery charger”. Finally, I will say that my plan in fact is to not spend any unnecessary winters in a van. I will likely be joining the Renaissance Faire circuit, or some other traveling job that follows the warm weather. Being a Snowbird is the best way to beat the cold and heat. But you will still run into extremes of heat and cold in the shoulder season, so your plan to super-insulate will pay off in both the heat and the cold.

Bootsand · Sep 2, 2012

wildmountainhoney said:
Hi Tao! Have you seen Bob's book?

I just picked up the book now, looks great so far!  Kudos to Bob for putting it out there.  Amazon said it was a pretty recent publication (as in last month)!

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