Fan-Tastic Fan Install Without Cutting Existing Wiring

[WannaBeFree]

I have a travel trailer and would like to install a Fan-Tastic Fan.  My biggest concern is cutting through electrical wires when creating an opening for the fan.  Any suggestions on not cutting wiring during a fan install?

Another big concern is getting power to the fan.  I guess most people just tie into a ceiling light but ideally I'd like to fish a wire back to the power distribution panel and put it on a separate circuit.  The big problem with that is the wall material.  I have no idea what the wall material is but it does not seem like you can easily patch it over like drywall.

Another concern is placement of the fan.  I'm guessing I need to place the fan beside one of the beams (rafter mabye) going across the roof but maybe the roofing plywood is plenty to support the fan.

A lesser concern is with choosing the fan.  Amazon has a basic Fan-Tastic Fan which simply pulls air out of the trailer.  I'm mainly concerned with just cooling the TT and I think the cheapest option will work but would like to hear why others opted for more expensive versions.

 

[VanKitten]

Show us pictures.

I am trying to visualize the area you are talking about.

 

[galladanb]

I cant speak to your wiring issues, as I am still in my own brand of wiring hell, still... LOL!
Feel free to check out my build in my signature below.

But we chose the MaxAir 5000K for the following reasons...
1.) Pricing - This model was comparable to others with features we wanted, see below.
2.) Function - This model can either pull air out or push air in, sounds like a great idea.
3.) 10 speeds - This model has so far in our limited testing, been very quiet even at mid speed and higher.
           At full speed, however, it proves its a fan.
4.) The fan can run fully open in the rain, and we can drive with it open. It actually has two lid support struts. Very strong!

I personally have NEVER cut a huge hole in the roof of any vehicle I've ever owned, but the fan install was very easy, despite
my personal struggles with the logistics of putting it in the huge gaping hole that I created for it!
Easy Peasie, right? RIGHT!!!

A side benefit to us is that it is manufactured in our home town, Wichita, KS.
We don't live there anymore, but we do still have family there.
SO in theory, if we ever need warranty work, we have a reason to go there. LOL!!!

 

[WannaBeFree]

Thanks galladanb,

The MaxAir 5000K has a lot of nice features.  Definitely something for me to consider.

 

[WannaBeFree]

Hey VanKitten,

Attached is an image I pulled from a video reviewing my trailer model.  I added the red rectangle to indicate ~ where I plan to install the fan.  To the left of the red rectangle is the bathroom which has a generic fan installed.

 

[LoupGarou]

Why add the additional fan?

Doesn't the bathroom fan pull air though the rest of the camper when it's turned on?

If the bathroom fan has a 14"x14" opening, how about replacing it with a MaxxFan?

Have you considered using a 12vdc portable fan that you can move about the living space?

 

[mayble]

Personally, I would be very leery about cutting through the tissue paper & toothpick roof of a conventional travel trailer.
If it were mine, I'd just replace the bathroom fan as LoupGarou suggested.  It should be an easy swap.

 

[rvpopeye]

I agree with that ^^^.
AND ADD for anyone in an RV.
If you have a toilet.....
Turn the fan from exhaust to intake before you flush !

Pffffffffeeeeeeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww!

 

[VanKitten]

Generally electric wires are run right down the middle or along one of the ribs.

Either way..the wiring will be loosely attached to a wood support.

Can you locate where those supports are? You can carefully cut a hole with a drill holes? In the middle between the ribs.

Once open..you can probe with your fingers to feel where you can continue to cut.

Thing is..even if you accidentally cut a wire..it is likely to be just one. You can put it back together with butt splice. Unlike house wiring...you can later bury a junction like that.
Most that would happen... you would blow the fuse by shorting it out. Not like AC where you would get the shock of your life.with DC you just throw a couple sparks.

Over the course of learning DC wiring these last many weeks...I have cut accidently several wires. Shorted out a few...blowing fuses as I go.

 

[TedBundo]

The MaxAir 5000k would be a Fan-Tastic choice for an ac unit. See what I did there?

 

[WannaBeFree]

Thanks rvpopeye,

I've heard running fans and toilets do NOT mix.  Very good point.  Thanks!

 

[WannaBeFree]

Thanks LoupGarou and mayble,

The bathroom fan does pull air through the rest of the camper when on but the flow is greatly diminished due to the closed bathroom door.  I'd prefer to keep the door closed, but I am concerned over cutting a big hole in the roof.

Eventually I may get a 2nd Fan-Tastic or MaxxFan for the bathroom if I find conditions would improve with more airflow.  The one currently installed looks like a desktop computer fan.

Good point on a 12VDC portable.  I purchased a Fan-Tastic Endless Breeze fan.

 

[WannaBeFree]

Thanks VanKitten,

Sounds like I should pull the existing bathroom fan bezel.  From there I can probably run a dow over to a probing drill hole.  Using the dow and drill hole I can ensure there is nothing blocking the wire's path from the existing to new fan.  Sounds like this could work

Question on the probing drill hole.  In the event there is not a path between the new and old fan, do you have any suggestions on patching the hole I'll be creating with the drill hole?  Not for sure how to patch that RV wall material - not dry wall.

 

[LoupGarou]

There's no need to cut a hole in your roof to add an additional fan. If leaving the bathroom door open is a problem, then add a register vent to the bathroom door.

https://goo.gl/images/tU0LeR

 

[rvpopeye]

I'd vote for replacing the existing fan with the more powerful Maxx/Fantastic.
#1 hole already cut.
#2 wire already run to it.
#3 If you want to keep the door closed.
You could take it off and cut some off the bottom for air flow....I did that to mine to make room for wood floor and new rug clearance (use a screw driver handle and tap the door to see how far the solid wood is and where the hollow part of the door starts and just leave at least~3/4" of the solid
part).
#4 No saw? wait till you find a friendly camper like me with one.
(lots of the tribe carry such things)

#5 Less holes in the roof=less chances for leaks !

 

[WannaBeFree]

Thanks LoupGarou and rvpopeye,

Upgrading the existing bathroom vent and adding a register to the bathroom door or simply cutting a bit off the bottom of the door could potentially take care of reduced airflow.  One reason I wanted to add the extra vent was to have two Fan-Tastic vents running to increase the airflow to about 1840CFM.  I also heard that the high speed on Fan-Tastic fans can be a bit loud so I was thinking I might run two model 1250 Fan-Tastic vents at medium speed for 1306CFM.  The current draw does increase to 4.58A in this configuration but you do get 386CFM more airflow.

All that being said maybe I should go with the simple upgrade of the existing fan and modify the bathroom door if having the door closed does reduce air flow.  If after all that things are still not cool enough I can go through the hassle of installing another vent.

Thanks!