E-250 stealth conversion

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WOW! <img src="/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> I guess today's window units are much more efficient than the old ones. <br>-Bruce
 
sneak peek of what I'm about to do.... not sure if I'm just plain crazy, &nbsp;or I'm being very creative....lol<br>Guess I have to hack more holes in my nice van.<br><br>I have them just sitting on the running boards. That was another reason for installing them... <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"><br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2702_zps7a7e7e3e.jpg" class="bbc_img">
 
4.9 amps on 110 volts AC. &nbsp; You multiple to get power. so around 550 watts. &nbsp;then through in some inefficient power converter for DC to AC conversion and you may need 1000 watts. convert back to DC and you get 12 volts DC at 84 amps each hour. &nbsp;<br><br>you also need instant peek power to get that compressor in the AC running, so might need 10 amps AC to start it. &nbsp;<br><br>there should be a hand crank on low power ac to get it running. like an old tractor. &nbsp;wishfull thinking.<br><br>12 volt batteries will drop power fast. once below half you need to recharge them. else the battery life is getting reduced.&nbsp;
 
some air conditioners have a hard start capacitor reducing the typical surge in amperage for starting the compressor.<br><br>when i was still in my apartment i had a small 5000 btu unit (frigidaire?? dont recall) that consumed less than 5 amps max and when turned on or during a compressor cycle did not register a jump as monitored by a killawatt.<br><br>i wasnt aware at the time of the idea of a hard start capacitor nor was it important to me, but i was surprised that it didnt suck juice when starting as i expected to see since i was aware of the phenomenon.&nbsp; so i looked it up and discovered the concept.<br><br>im guessing that if the a/c unit had good efficiency ratings there is a good chance its so equipped.
 
so I'm finally back on this project...&nbsp;<br>I'm starting from the front. installed the 1st wall behind the drivers seat where the bulk of the wiring will be. battery storage, and customizing of the cab<br><br>first came the template for the wall<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2795_zps51307eb6.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br>then some finishing before it gets installed<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2811_zps383c83f6.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2797_zps6885255b.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br>built a cool slide out for the batteries. still needs to be finished, but this is the idea so far<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2813_zps6b4c873c.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br>then I had this idea while working in the cab area<br>upper storage for those little things that clutter a vehicle<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2815_zpseba30a06.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br>a little customizing.....<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2817_zpsbf94492e.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br>then I decided to cover everything to match<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2819_zpsf7a6cc90.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2821_zpsdb0ac09f.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2825_zps7fa50b0c.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br>and all installed<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2827_zps28d9dbb3.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2831_zps57609916.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2835_zps3da7ab9c.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2833_zps2f4483db.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br>tomorrow we shall see what I need for my above cab storage<br><br>
 
Wow, this is so cool. I'm very impress with your attention to details. It's just great.&nbsp;The extra "shelf" for the little stuff, very clever!<br><br>Take care<br><br>Nicole
 
A place for my glasses, wallet, phone. maps and pamphlets. I think an I-pad will even fit too.... I'm thinking about putting a usb power outlet up in the center too, to keep phones charged and out of the way. only took me 10 years to figure out I needed something like this... I saw that they made them out of plastic for around $80, and the reviews were horrible. I think I'm going to make some more storage on the front door panels when I swap them out for power locks and windows.<br>the beauty of building your own van... you build it for your own needs..&nbsp;<img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img" title="Smile - :)">
 
i recently installed a couple of hardwired usb chargers. wired to my 12v fused block on the house battery side. can be wired to vehicle system as well of course but i chose house. i ran one to my car dock for my droid bionic. and the other i ran to my handsfree blutetooth speakerphone.<br><br>they are usually sold to motorcycle guys so they dont have to deal with the 12v outlets and plugs.<br><br>i thought it was a good idea since i hate all of that stuff floating around. it works great.<br><br>i got them off amazon. they provide 1.5 amps of power.&nbsp; search for "hardwired usb charger"<br><br>an interesting thing about the usb format. its design is capped at 2 amps. your device can draw up to this point if two things are true. a) your cable is a charge cable and not a "data" cable, or combo b) the charger itself provides 2 amps of course. not all do. some are 500 milli-amps or 800 ma etc etc.&nbsp; the reason for the cable difference is that if the cable is capable of data transfer as well as power transfer, two wires must be dedicated for data thus reducing the capacity for power transfer.&nbsp; if youve ever wondered why a particular charge arrangement seemed to take forever, that is why.<br><br>using the hardwired devices is great. my cell picks up the charge as an AC charge and it charges real fast. in fact, while driving, i can have gps running as well as music streaming via bluetooth (to the speakerphone which then transmits to my radio via fm) and the battery will still receive a charge after the net use. very cool and convenient.<br><br>most devices can safely accept 1.5 amps of charge into their battery without issue.<br><br><br><br>
 
first item is not bad. i wasnt aware blue sea had that in their lineup. id still have the cord hanging around which i wanted to eliminate in the cab area but definitely better than having a charge cable AND the 12v plug out along with it.&nbsp; ive used the plain blue sea 12v outlets all over the van. they are made well and i like the fact that they mount with either the retaining nut alone or the retaining nut and a trim plate (on the double ones).<br><br>if i had to guess, the second item is probably similar amp output for the usb ports (2 ish). i like the fact that it has the automotive fuse rather than a tube type inside the plug.<br><br><br>
 
what adhesive did you use to glue the fabric to the headliner? was the headliner that standard automotive healiner material over a foam core or was it vinyl over foam core?<br><br>i considered putting slides in my battery box as well. i learned over on the Rockler website that some of the slides can be mounted flat on a floor surface or shelf (as an alternative to mounting to the sides of a cabinet or the sides of the drawer itself).<br><br>so far i can slide my battery out pretty easy without them so i crossed them off the list. i like the way you did yours though. are you going to keep the one side open?
 
I used auto upholstery spray adhesive...i believe it the same as the loctite adhesive that I used on the foam board. the headliner was the stock vinyl padded headliner. Moulded masonite with foam and vinyl covering. I had some 100# drawer slides left from a job that I used. I dont plan on opening that battery drawer much, so it should be ok for the 180 lbs thats sitting on it.I can always wedge something under it when I extend it if I have to.<br>I'm planning on closing the side behind the seat, and the front. carpeted to match..<br><br>I covered the door panels today in between work and a couple thunderstorms.<br>they are my new old panels with all the power goodies that I'm swapping in, they were tan when I started<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/conversion van build/IMG_2840_zps77a4dee6.jpg" class="bbc_img">
 
I'm mainly covering things with this carpet fabric to deaden the sound in the van...so far it has made a huge difference with sound and echo without the door panels...and it also feels very warm and cozy in the cab.<br><br>
 
hell of a nice job on the door panels.&nbsp; <img src="/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img" title="Thumb - :thumb:">
 
I was going to update, but I cant find a way to post pics at this particular time
 
found the goodies to post again..not sure where I left off on the other site
here's my progress up to today

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Thanks Nicole…..

I have the water tank almost finished. going to install the pump, and venting later this week, and hopefully give it all a test run..

I also have been asked to possibly build a tour van for a band in Florida using a Sprinter long base chassis. I'm going to get a design from them and see what it takes to build it
 
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