Drip rail sealant

[Paisley777]

Hello all,

In my quest to make the old van water tight, I also have to replace the sealant in the drip rail.  I found this product mentioned in another forum:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-08505-Sealer-Cartridge-ounces/dp/B000PEWDKG/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

Anybody use this?  Is it good?

Also, any idea how many tubes are needed?

Thanks,
Samantha

 

[Almost There]

Hello all,

In my quest to make the old van water tight, I also have to replace the sealant in the drip rail.  I found this product mentioned in another forum:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-08505-Sealer-Cartridge-ounces/dp/B000PEWDKG/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

Anybody use this?  Is it good?

Also, any idea how many tubes are needed?

Thanks,
Samantha

You have a high top on yours don't you?

Where and how badly is it leaking at the drip rail?

There's a virtual ton of different sealers out there, need more info!

 

[TMG51]

I'm new to vans, but I've done a lot of sealing on rooftops. There are plenty of products out there (Geocel & Through the Roof are my favorites), but what's more important than nitpicking over which product to use, is applying it correctly. It's important to spread sealant evenly and smooth it over after it's on. If you leave a rumpled mess, water is going to find its way in and start working further. Always tight smooth applications....

 

[Paisley777]

You have a high top on yours don't you?

Where and how badly is it leaking at the drip rail?

There's a virtual ton of different sealers out there, need more info!

The rear is rusted out.  I will also be doing body repair, but need to fill in the rail to at least match to the level of the seal that is already there.

 

[Almost There]

The rear is rusted out.  I will also be doing body repair, but need to fill in the rail to at least match to the level of the seal that is already there.

I know this isn't what you will want to hear because it's not a fast fix for the leak - But you'd be better off lifting the high top up onto 2 x 4's and doing the body work. While the top is lifted clean all the old butyl tape out on both the fiberglass top and the roof of the van and reinstall the high top with new tape. Also, I found out while prowling around the internet that the grey butyl commonly used with RVs only has a useful life of about 10 years whereas the beige stuff used for marine installations has a 20 year life. Guess where I'm buying my butyl tape..

If it's just a temporary fix you want, just to keep the water out for now, you could use LePage Draft Stop which is removable. It comes in caulking gun cartridges. I tried to use it for patching the holes in the roof this past winter until the van went in for all the body work. It didn't work well in flat overhead locations but would appear to work well in something like the trough you want to work on. The silicone sealers once in place will be a bitch to sand back off of both the body and the high top so be careful which one you use if you choose to go that route.

You might also want to try some butyl tape stuffed in the area although I'm not sure if it will stick to rust.

 

[Paisley777]

I know this isn't what you will want to hear because it's not a fast fix for the leak - But you'd be better off lifting the high top up onto 2 x 4's and doing the body work. While the top is lifted clean all the old butyl tape out on both the fiberglass top and the roof of the van and reinstall the high top with new tape. Also, I found out while prowling around the internet that the grey butyl commonly used with RVs only has a useful life of about 10 years whereas the beige stuff used for marine installations has a 20 year life. Guess where I'm buying my butyl tape..

If it's just a temporary fix you want, just to keep the water out for now, you could use LePage Draft Stop which is removable. It comes in caulking gun cartridges. I tried to use it for patching the holes in the roof this past winter until the van went in for all the body work. It didn't work well in flat overhead locations but would appear to work well in something like the trough you want to work on. The silicone sealers once in place will be a bitch to sand back off of both the body and the high top so be careful which one you use if you choose to go that route.

You might also want to try some butyl tape stuffed in the area although I'm not sure if it will stick to rust.

The good news is, the way the roof sits, it doesn't interfere with what I have to do to the edges.  It's only the rail that has issues not the roof.  Looks like what happened is as the old sealant cracked, no one fixed it, so water sat in there and rusted it out.
(also there is no way in holy hell I am doing that again any time soon.    )

 

[rvpopeye]

I like a product called Geocell Pro Flex , it comes in tubes and cans , I use the cans , about $20 a quart ,consistency of honey and just brush it on. Cleans up with paint thinner. Use the tubes for vertical applications.

I'd advise anyone to stay away from silicone for mobile applications.... it WILL leak and nothing sticks to it , including more silicone !

 

[Paisley777]

I like a product called Geocell Pro Flex , it comes in tubes and cans , I use the cans , about $20 a quart ,consistency of honey and just brush it on. Cleans up with paint thinner. Use the tubes for vertical applications.

I'd advise anyone to stay away from silicone for mobile applications.... it WILL leak and nothing sticks to it  , including more silicone !

I found it.  Looks like that would work better than fighting with a tube.  Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[compassrose]

Elastomeric roof patch/caulking/sealant. Comes in cartridge tubes like caulking does. Found in the roofing section of big box home improvement stores.