Documenting my solar install

[Seraphim]

Update:

Shipped charge controller to Renogy, and they applied the cost of the PMW controller to the cost of the MPPT no questions asked.

Ordered ANL fuses and holders and purchased several lengths of 6 aWG wire to race the 10.

Decided to add a battery disconnect. Going to add it between the shunt and the load. It won't disconnect the solar panels, but will stop the phantom load. Must remember to reconnect prior to traveling, so the batteries charge from the alternator...

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Here's the forgotten photo of the panel mounts with self leveling Dicor applied.

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I also put Dicor around the entry of the panel cables into the camper.



Globbed it on thickly - it will level out, just as it did around the gas line next to it, and on the mounts.

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A photo of the ParkPower battery disconnect.

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Here's the inside. Sides slide off for wire access.

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This weekend should be clear and warmer - in the 50s.

I'll have everything except the controller and the fuses, so I'll do the rewire, and I still have one mount on the panel's to bolt down. It was in an awkward spot, and I had to wait until the weather cleared.

When the controller and fuses come in, it'll merely be a case of popping them into place and the install will be complete. More photos to follow, as everything is wired into place.

 

[Seraphim]

Both ANL fuses and holders came in today.



The controller's due in Monday. Tuesday, the updated system should be operational.

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Another plus for Renogy - they sent the new comtroller by 2 day priority mail, rather than standard ground. That's why I'm getting it Monday rather than Friday, which I was expecting. Their customer service has been quick and easy. I sent an email to their tech section, got a response that same day confirming the problem, and they already contacted customer service. Customer service sent me a mailing label the next day for the return of the item. They got it in three work days, and immediately sent out my new order.

Thanks Renogy.

 

[akrvbob]

It's good to hear your feedback! Renology is sounding better and better.
Bob

 

[Seraphim]

In the photo below, the white 8 AWG wire running horizontally in the frame is the negative wire that leads to the shunt, then to the battery.

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To install the battery cutoff, I disconnected the wire from the shunt, so there was no current flowing through the circuit. Then I cut the negative wire at the location on the wall, where I wanted to mount the cutoff. After crimping connectors on both ends of the wire, I attached them to the switch, mounted the switch on the wall, and reconnected the wire to the shunt.

I can tell the switch works, as thehantom current showing up on my battery monitor when the switch is in the off position.

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Meant to photograph the crimps, but forgot. I'll photo them when I install the fuse mounts. Sprung for a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper for safety's sake. About $52. It'll end up at my friend's shop...

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'Thehantom' above should be 'the phantom'

 

[Seraphim]

OK -I spliced together the negative wire from the panel, which I had mistakenly cut for a fuse, thinking it was a postive lead lol.

The technique used - which I just learned is called the Western Union splice - is shown here:

http://www.cheaprvliving.com/forums/Thread-Soldering-wire

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With heat shrink tube, heated by electric match

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Next, I cut the REAL positive wire to insert the fuse holder, and I crimped ring terminals on both ends of the cut

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Next, I mounted the ANL fuse holder, and attached the sections of the positive cable from the solar panels.

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The fuse holder has a clear cover, but I'll leave that off until I insert the fuse - the last step.

 

[SternWake]

The HF crimper is kind of a piece of junk.

YOu have an older model with the undersized dies.

They are not designed to work with insulated terminals.

When complete the crimp should be in the shape of a hexagon, without any ears.

I use 4awg, then 6 awg dies on my crimper to get a good looking hexagonal crimp with 8 awg butt crimpers with mine.

What you show is little better than crushing a crimp in a vice.

Please do a whole hearted pull test on that crimp, I bet you can pull the wire from it with about 30 pounds of force.

Please look at Mainsail's review of this HF crimper, and even his worst crimps, are a hundred times better than your crimp.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables&page=3

You can make the HF crimper work on some sizes of wire, but you have to look at the markings on their dies and pretend they do not exist. More likely start with the 4 awg for the 8awg crimp to start a hexagonal shape, then move to 6awg and make sure to do your best to get it to be hexagonal. This will likely require rotating the crimp in the dies about half way through.


You can't just crush a crimp with 8 tons of force and declare it good.

 

[Seraphim]

Then I suspect I'll have to redo my crimps. I'll have to do some practicing first. But I also suspect they're better than I would have done without the crimper. Once I get the hang of it, I'll redo them.

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Just got notified the new controller's at the post office. Should be in our PO box, so I'll pick it up after supper.

 

[highdesertranger]

I agree with stern that looks like a crimp that was put in a vice. highdesertranger

 

[Seraphim]

Picked up the MPPT controller and its considerably larger than the PMW, which I knew when I ordered it. It's still thicker than I had imagined it. May move the steps more centered on the sleeping area, just to ensure proper air movement through the heat sinks. Tomorrow's decision...

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I agree with stern that looks like a crimp that was put in a vice. highdesertranger

Looks like it to me, as well lol. A unanimous vote...

It's all a learning process. I've got the time to redo things until they're right.

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Little by little it'll happen

 

[Seraphim]

OK - we're done. Finally.

I spent part of the morning making sure the battery cases sealed properly, which meant reorganizing the wires off the terminals, and notching the case lids so the cables came out and ran in the proper directions. Also made sure water was added to the batteries.




The area is generally cleaner and ready for me to install fuses and controller.

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Next, I installed the fuse holders - you can see the holder for the panels in the photo, but I didn't connect the fuses. Instead, I CAREFULLY connected the cables to the fuse holders, and the charge controller.

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The old PMW controller had a built in LCD to display information. This 40 am MTTP controller has an optional remote meter. I chose to mount the meter on the opposite side of the battery compart, next to the trimetric, so I could easily compare readings of the two. The grey wire running down from the controller attaches to the meter.

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The remote meter mounts one of two ways: inset flush into the wall by drilling a 2.5" hole, or mounting on the surface of the wall. I didn't have a 2.5" hole saw available, so I did a surface mount for now, and just drilled a hole large enough for the cable to come through.

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I'll say here I only have one negative comment about the system so far, and that's in reference to the remote meter. It strikes me as being cheap. It works, but the face of the LCD display is not hard - it's flexible. If you touch it you get temporary dark marks on the screen. This is old school tech, and nothing like the nicer LCD screen on the PMW controller. It is also not the brightest or sharpest display. Be careful removing the protective film from the front. But, as I said, it works.

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Next, I inserted the fuse for the battery - instructions say to power up the device before making the panel connection. Everything came on as expected, so I added the panel fuse. It's a dismal day, but both the meter and the controller (via an idiot light) showed the panel's were charging the battery. The meter showed the panel's were creating 17v and the battery was getting 1 amp. The trimetric showed 1.1 amps going across the shunt.

I don't like the meter's setup on the display as well as the PMW screen. The two controllers have different manufactures, I'd guess. The first was a ViewStar. The new one just says Renogy.

Here's an overview of the inside setup:

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All that's left is a little finish work probably of no interest to anyone.

I need to put braces across the opening of the lower compartment, to support the steps, put the access covers back in place, secure the panel cables on the roof and secure one more mount, and Dicor it.

Any questions, or requests for any more photos, let me know.

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A final note on the first readings from the remote: the batteries were on shoreower, and were full. The remote showed a state of charge of 69%, but I sat there and watched it slowly increase. I'm assuming the controller started at a certain stage, and is slowly catching up on the star of the batteries. Or perhaps the controller was giving a more reading than the trimetric. I'll check it later.

 

[Seraphim]

Above should read: secure the panel cables...

Hopefully Bob will go through and make corrections, since I can't... *grin*

 

[Seraphim]

No error codes!

Another overcast day, but the system worked. Both the CC remote and trimetric indicated the batteries brought up to 'full' charge his afternoon. Have to wait for a sunny day, then run the batteries down and see how they charge...

 

[sassypickins]

Thanks again for such a good accounting of your solar install. I really appreciate it.

 

[Seraphim]

My pleasure. A lot of good commentary from others as well.

I'm now so paranoid about crimps I can't sleep at night... *grin*

 

[Seraphim]

Just a three month update.

Went to Florida, as well as attended a get together in Alabama. The panels do exactly what I want. Overnight, my worst case usage was 9% (less than 21 amps). SOC was back at 100% in less than two hours of sunlight. I feel I can go through - at least - a four day stormy period at our standard usage rate. That takes the battery down to about 60%, depending if there's enough sunlight to provide any charge at all. I have yet to test out that theory. But I'm happy so far.

 

[highdesertranger]

thanks for the follow up. I always like follow ups. highdesertranger