DocJean.....Designing a Loveseat Bed

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John61CT

I haven't written it yet... but what a total disappointment...  well, it did firm up my base enough... it does not "self level" for one thing, another is the screen has a memory so even if you put in it sun to flatten it, once the gripper paint begins to work the screen creases/crumples back up...just for starters.
 
As for the loveseat bed....  it's on hold for now.

The main bed will be going up onto the ceiling and lower by pulleys.  Two separate "beds".

I took a pic or two showing the main issue:  there is no very rear ceiling rib with which to attach the back of the bedboard.  I haven't measured because I thought I had made both boards (the one the worked only ok, and the one that wouldn't raise / lower) the same width: 39" for twin mattress size....  perhaps the one that doesn't work is wider, throwing the balance and thus pull off?

IF I put say a 1 x 3 on each "end" attached to both the current setup ribs and extended into the "space" behind (to rear of van)... will that be strong enough to place the rear pulleys farther back to lift straight up?  Whatdoyathink?


Have to crop pics before I can get them to add here...  no time right now.
 
DrJean said:
I haven't written it yet... but what a total disappointment...  well, it did firm up my base enough... it does not "self level" for one thing, another is the screen has a memory so even if you put in it sun to flatten it, once the gripper paint begins to work the screen creases/crumples back up...just for starters.
I plan to do what it takes to make it work, the weight savings are that critical for me.

heavy-duty aluminum screening

standard is 8' rolls, should prevent that last issue

thinking about rigging a way to hold the screen perfectly level under tension very taut , then just pushing the foam sheet lightly against it from below to apply the gripper. or maybe paint it vertically?

maybe doubling up the screening overlay at 90°


Another thought I had, is plastic greenhouse bed grids, same screening idea for tensile structural support. That is also light weight, no insulation value, but side benefit is maximum airflow against condensation under the mattress/pad.

The key is to minimize spacing of underside support, obviously also varies with the weight of the load.
 
I needed something light strong and easy to insulate that I could sleep and stand on ( I'm over 200 lbs.) as the bed would hold storage totes stacked two high as well. I ended up using cheap interior doors filled with spray foam and a thin sheet of luan (plywood) glued on top. These weigh in the thirty pound range and are much more stiff and sturdy than framed plywood. In fact I used them instead of plywood and foam for the walls of my trailer as they were lighter and cheaper after coating with "Poor Man's Fiberglass" water proof. I used a lot of wooden dowels and Tight Bond glue ( both II and III ) to make joints and anywhere I needed a weight bearing screw I used a hole saw to make a 1" hole through one side, Gorilla glued in a 1" hardwood dowel and sawed it flush, then drilled quarter inch holes around the area and filled with spray foam ( used quarter inch dowels to plug holes) and PMF. I have had better luck with Tight Bond glue than Gripper. Where doors are cut redwood fence boards can be ripped to size and glued in after core cardboard supports are cut back. Spray foam is basically another form of Gorilla glue and works if pieces are clamped in place. I haven't tried putting aluminum screen on top of doors and under PMF as everything has been super strong after being filled with spray foam. Doors come 80" long and widths of 24" up to 36" and damaged for as little as $18. Canvas drop cloths and Tight Bond glue covered with latex paint over a interior door is pretty strong, but filling the door with spray foam and laminating a thin sheet of plywood over it makes it almost indestructible and still fairly light weight.
 
No I am photo skills lacking but this method of building using interior doors and a simple dowel joint tool to make a box then covering with drop cloth canvas and Tite Bond II glue and painting on a coat of latex/primer gives you a water tight fiberglass looking surface. The doors must be completely coated as they are basically cardboard and will draw moisture, but my little camper was at the RTR 3 years ago along with our Kodiac spring bar tent and not many people realize it was made with simple tools in the middle of the desert. No problems in over 3 years of constant use and easy to add on, fix or modify.
 
Hey abnorm, still around? Are you ready for measurements yet? :D
 
arrrgh.  Now I cannot even get the edit on the photo done to post it right ...always a page full size now. Anyway current config.  as I stated, the item to the right of the seat can be moved to the left of the seat, squaring the loveseat/guest bed up with step well / slider (I think I said wheel well somewhere doh).

I would like it if the back of the seat wasn't quite that high, but it's only a couple inches above bottom of window.
 39x21x17 ...  55" long open  to 60" long open if you want to mess with 4" longer feet at the door.  I don't know anyone who would be going with me that is tall... and while I'm 5"8" I don't sleep flat out straight on my back. j  You never want a guest bed real comfortable anyway, they might stay longer! lol

What do you think? (Looking at post 9 ? for example.
space under neath 34-35" w x 15-17" h x21" d
 
Ok...............we have liftoff..................or rather a Sofa/bed...........Contrasty photos in the Garage..........

Here's what I came up with......that's everything necessary to make the bed in the van.........the two 60" rails are used to bridge the gap between the two benches when in the bed mode..........The storage space below is 17" tall by 36"x20"
SofaBedComplete.jpg

Here's the Fixed bench......It is the widest bench and includes armrests (not installed yet.......custom fit)........I tried using some smaller/thinner lumber but ran into strength of materials problems
FixedBench.jpg

Here's the sliding bench.........It includes the bench and the folding mattress support......It is just short of 21" tall at the seat...........At first it had spaced SEAT slats but after testdriving I was painfully aware of my cheeks oozing thru the slats...........solid seat it is.....safer for Sherlocke also
MovableBench.jpg

The slider has a small "latch" to keep the backrest in an upright seated position............This also allows the bench to be used as a seat outside of the van if desired
BackrestSupport.jpg



(More photos in the next post)
 

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OK.............Let's make this into a bed..........My neighbor joked it looked like some kind of strange Wooden TRANSFORMER

First pull the movable bench toward the side door a couple feet.................
Bed without Bedrails.jpg

Next slide the two BedRails under the slats..........this bridges between the two benches.........It's necessary to lift the small "foot" to insert the rails.......The foot may help hide the storage area and also may keep items in place while traveling..........it certainly adds several inches to the short bed
Bed with Bedrails.jpg

Now it's time to unfold the Back and Head of the bed...........they simply rest on the bedrails......Now that's a platform 39" wide by a shade over 60".....All ready for a mattress of some sort.............I testdrove the bed with 300# of Doug and all-is-well
Bed.jpg

Well here's one more shot of the finished Sofa.............basically ready when you are...............doug

SofaBed.jpg
 

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Hold up... isn't 60" equal to 5'? Are you 5'? I'm 5'2" and sleep with my arms stretched over my head, which is why I put my bed along the length of the van instead of across.
 
Jean has issues with placement...........55"-60" Max length

She told me this is for guests........"Don't treat them too good or they'll never leave"

Thanks................doug
 
Wow! Any plans to publish drawings?

But now I want a Zero-Gravity position for watching films on our 40" screen.

And of course anchoring and seat belts so kids can travel on it.

And, and. . .
 
""Wow! Any plans to publish drawings?""

Hell No !!!.........We don't need no stinkin' drawings.....................


Thanks........................doug
 
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