Remove the back seats, sleeping on passenger side?

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Maple

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I have a 2014 Subaru Forester which I am trying to find a way to sleep in.

The first option I gave up is lay the backseats flat.  I can build a platform extend to the whole length behind the passenger seat, but there is no way I can climbing into and out of it even in summer clothes when there is not enough head room to sit up.  Absolutely mission impossible in winters.  And there won’t be much storage space left.

The second option is sleeping on the backseat.  Find something to fill up the leg room and using an air mattress to create flat surface.  The whole trunk will still be my storage.  But at barely 5 ft, the bed will be too short for me.  And it is a weird shape.

The easiest solution is sleeping on the passenger seat with the seat move back as far as possible and lay down as low as possible.  It is not bad.  The seat provided enough cushion. I was not laying flat but my arms and legs all have room to move.  I can sit up easily, even directly step to the driver side.  The bad side is I can only sleeping facing the roof.  My legs can not stretch straight.  It surprised me that the passenger side has much less leg room compared with the driver side.  If only the passenger seat can lay flat, then I can make use of the backseat space too.  Even with the headrest removed, the passenger seat can not lay back flat.  It is rested on the backseat.  I just need couple of more inches.  

Then I read that someone removed their back seats for precious storage.  It suddenly occurred to me, what if I remove the whole backseat?  That is a lot of space freed.  Can I lay the passenger seat flat and use it as if it is a small bed?

I know the whole back seats can be safely removed.  There is no air bags involved.  But I don’t know if the passenger seat can be lowered a little bit more until it is flat.  Even if it is possible, I don’t know what else need to be done to use it as a bed.

If anyone have interest in exploring this possibility, please share with me.
 
1. Don't set something up where you'll be sleeping uncomfortably. You'll grow to hate it.
2. Don't set something up where you'll be sleeping uncomfortably. You'll grow to hate it.
3. Don't set something up where you'll be sleeping uncomfortably. You'll grow to hate it.

The sad fact is that car seats are terrible for sleeping, and even if you, say, remove the back seat and recline the passenger seat, it will still be a crummy sleeping surface. Yes, you can put a foam or inflatable pad on it, but it'll still be uneven and a pain in the something--back, butt, etc.

So I suggest going all in. Take out the back seat AND the passenger seat. Build a platform that will occupy the entire now-empty right-hand side. Use the empty space behind the driver's seat for things that'll make you more comfortable--a lamp, table for your laptop, storage, snacks, a fan, whatever. You'll be sleeping on a flat surface that should be long enough to accommodate you. Put down a nice foam pad, some blankies, and you can have actual comfort!

Getting in and out shouldn't be any real problem, since you have two directional options and you can choose the one that works. You can use the platform as a sitting space in the former back seat area.
 
Have you checked out YouTube for what other car owners have done? I know that with the Prius, nearly all campers sleep on the passenger side and many long-termer have taken out the back seat in favor of building a platform for storage.
 
What I did:
 -- Removed the back seat; built storage up level with back deck.
 -- Removed front seat; Build storage up level with back deck.
 -- Add narrow mattress.
 = A bed I can stretch out in (very important for me).
subaru 1.png

You are going to spend 1/3 of your time in that spot, make sure you are comfortable.
 

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So the dog is named Spiff and he's learned how to post on the internet? Cool!
 
Not only that, I have a PhD in Mathematics and an Associate Professorship at MIT  :cool:
 
Thank you very much to you all. I guess I really need to explore the options of removing all seats except the driver’s. It will give me the freedom of doing so much.
 
I'm not sure how it all works with a 14 Forester, but on my 20 4Runner, I tried removing the front passenger seat. It was easy to remove—4 bolts and some plugs underneath the seat. But, once I did that, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree with errors for malfunctioning air bag and all kinds of stuff. I put the seat back in. I read someplace on the interwebs (everything is true, right?), that if you can ignore all the flashing lights, it doesn't cause a problem. I'm not one to ignore flashy lights!

Maybe there is a way to change a setting or something to solve this? Don't know. Something to think about though. I would look under the seat and see if there are wires and stuff. If not, then you shouldn't have a problem with the Christmas tree scenario.
 
The air bag on passenger side is exactly why I have never considered to remove the passenger seat before.  If you remove the seat and disconnect the wire, control system will give alarm that the passenger side airbags are malfunction. There are devices can connect to the control system wires after removing the passenger seat.  The device sends signals to the control system pretends that the airbag is still there.  It may affect the warranty of the car.  But 2014 is a very old model so I don’t really care about factory warranties.  The next thing to consider is if removing passenger seat will affect the driver side airbags.  Which I certainly hope not.  Because safety is more important.

My Forester is very reliable and well maintained.  But it is tiny for a stiff person like me to sleeping inside.  Removing the passenger seat will give me a sleeping area of 20 inches wide, 65 inches long.  Removing the back seats will make it longer but not wider.  It is not something I can see myself sleeping in more than couple of days.  It may not worth the effort of messing with the airbag system.

Any decent bed size will require at least a minivan.  But the new Toyota Sienna which has everything I need put airbags on the second row.  You can not remove even the second row seats, not to say the passenger one.  Let’s hope next year, Toyota see the market and give options to remove the second row safely.  Then I will buy one and build a bed inside.
 
In my 2015 Forester I've removed the back seat and all the plastic and metal support structures. Also took out the rear deck and foam cover over the spare tire. Built a flat deck out to where the back seats were, and hinged covers to continue a flat surface out to the back of the driver's seat (when pulled fully forward, can't be driven in that state.) There is a lot of storage under all the decks. I use a 25 inch trifold Millard foam mattress on the driver side, really comfortable. I kept the sleeping deck as low as possible to maximize headroom. I can sit up in bed, and with the large sunroof it feels pretty spacious.

I reverse the passenger seat when camping- takes about 10 minutes, you remove 4 bolts, turn the seat around and replace the bolts. (had to do slight modification- there are two small metal nubs on the seat rail so I had to drill two small holes in the seat understructure to reverse it.) First time I did this I disconnected the battery ground and carefully unplugged the multi-connector under the seat to avoid any airlbag excitement. I don't bother anyone- the connection is quite secure and I've never had a problem. It's really nice to have the seat reversed to hang out in when the weather is bad or when the bugs come out at night. I've made a removable swivel table for eating or computer support.

The kitchen box can be accessed from inside the car, or if it's an extended trip I turn it to face the tailgate and cook from outside. It's got a two burner stove and a sink with drain hose connected to a 5 gallon gray water tank under the rear deck.
 

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Thank you so much.   This is unbelievable.  Your car is one year newer than mine.  They are basically the same in all dimensions.  Your phones helped a lot.

May I ask how long it too you to finish the build?  Did you ever put everything back?  I can not imagine what will happen if I do the same thing and need to put things back for some reason.
 
Thanks for your kind words Maple. I was happy to see your post because you were asking about the same car with the same needs. It basically took me several months, starting in May, and I've been tweaking and refining along the way. Some components, such as the kitchen box (made from a kitchen drawer unit my neighbor was throwing away), the mattress and the fridge were from my last build in a Mazda CX-5. Removing the rear seat and structures took a few days- I photographed and saved all the parts. I think I'll be able to reassemble it when I sell/trafe the car, but it will be a challenging project. Nothing in the original car was cut or drilled except for the seat mount that I mentioned. I used existing threaded holes and attachment points wherever possible. The most time-consuming part was designing, measuring, cutting and installing the decking and covers. Lots of trial and error there, had to re-do some bracing and attachment methods a few times.

Good luck with your build!
 
May I ask what kind of tools will be needed for this project?  

I do not have a garage which means I will need to buy power tools, basic but good quality tools can last decade.  Other than a drill/driver, I believe I will need to get a saw for those try and error cut work.  Which kind of saw fit this project?  Or maybe I need more than one?  I am a person hate plywood.  I will try to use only solid wood for my project.  This may affect the saw to choose.

Whatever else you think will helping me please share with me.

Thank you very much for your help.  I really appreciate it.
 
Re the airbag sensor problem: There's probably a relay, the sole function of which is to activate the airbag freak-out mechanism. The front passenger seat has a switch that's activated by any reasonably-sized butt in the seat (and, as we all know, a heavy enough bag of groceries). So two easy fixes would be a) remove the relay (assuming nothing else you care about would be disabled; consult a wiring diagram) or b) find the relevant weight-sensor switch and wire it to be permanently open or closed, whichever the default state is.

Of course, this may be illegal and the government will send a drone to vaporize you, but heck, if you're going to sleep in your car, you're already prepared to violate several hundred local, county, state, federal, and galactic ordinances and will be crushed and melted if they catch you anyway.
 
I am not very good at wood working, but I'm sort of fearless about trying things. I have access to a good wood and metal shop where I work. The bandsaw and table saw were essentials, and I did a small bit of metal fabrication on some of the hinges- cutting, drilling new holes. And a good hand drill na metal bits (and oil) for the seat base drilling. I think you are going to have a hard or even impossible time making the decks out of solid hardwood. I believe plywood has a much better strength to thickness and weight ratio, and will be less expensive (but not cheap). I used both 1/2 and 3/4 inch. I covered mine in black speaker covering, not sure I'd do that again (attracts dirt and grit). Probably sand and coat it with polyurethane. I only have a single car garage that usually contains my wife's vehicle (also a Subaru Forester, but a 2021, I got her hand-me-down), so most of the work was done in warm weather or under the overhang where I work.
 
Maple,
Instead of investing in tools you will only need for this project, maybe find a handyperson who has tools and pay them what you would have spent on tools.

As for wood, plywood is definitely the way to go. I used 5/8" 11 ply birch for the platform that goes over where the rear seat was and 1/2" 9 ply birch for the sleeping platform. If you are talking about the construction type plywood, yes, I hate that stuff as well. It is garbage wood.
 
Oh, and to cover it, NAPA sells auto carpet that seems decent. I went to a fabric shop and got some 1/4 inch thick "stuff" that is normally used as a filler for a comforter. Wood>filler stuff>Napa carpet. It turned out well and matches the existing interior carpet in feel and looks.
 
Thank you all very much.

It is an intimidating project. I have always loved handwork but never did any woodwork.

Currently I am planning to do it step by step.

First, clear my apartment for all the coming storage needs.
Then, I will remove the back seats.

If I can build without removing all foams in the trunk then it maybe easier. As long as I can sit up with the sunroof cover open, it is fine. I am not that tall, so this could be possible. The goal is to get a decent sleeping surface with a plan as simple as possible plan. I am not even concerning with storage now.

Today, I watched some videos of suv build and believe the most difficult task will be build supporting frame to use existing car frame without drilling holes. The design will be very challenging.

Many years ago, I was cut by the sharpe edge of someone’s plywood furniture. That is why I hate it. Today I did some research. It seemed possible to find good plywood that with sanding and painting to get smooth edge. Very important for a clumsy person.

Another reason I don’t want plywood is they are so heavy. I will see what I can handle. Most likely it will be a mix and match of plywood and lumber.

As for tools, I bought some from Home Depot. Just drill/ drive and jigsaw. To drill holes for screws and cut curves, these two are inevitable. Any major cut, I will try to ask the store to cut for me.

Thank you all again for your kindness and advices.
 
Good luck with the project Maple. Good to start with some hand tools, but honestly I don't think a hand jigsaw will be up to the job. It's really difficult to get good straight cuts with one of those and you will overwork the motor and blade. There will be many straight cuts you'll need to make on each panel, they are not simple rectangles. Home Depot will cut down large boards to fit in your vehicle to take them home, but I doubt they will do multiple detailed cuts. And as I said, there will be trial and error (at least there was for me.) As for smaller detail and curve cuts, a bandsaw will be much cleaner and more accurate. As for sharp edges on plywood, a belt and/or disk sander (again, stationary shop grade) will give you nice rounded edges. I understand that you probably don't want to buy these major shop tools, so I sort of agree with JanaBanana that you might be better off finding someone to do this part of the project for you. But if you choose to plunge on ahead, I applaud you!
 
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