Dialectic grease

[BradKW]

Is this grease a conductor? Do I need to put all my connections together and then apply Grease? Or do I apply grease liberally as I assemble the connections? Thank you

 

[Trebor English]

Dielectric means insulator. Grease can keep water, oxygen and other corrosives out of an electrical connection.

 

[BradKW]

Ok, so if I'm messy, I could screw up and inhibit how well my connections work? Is this the product I should be using?

 

[speedhighway46]

Brad: DG gets old and ***** in time, and then it is very difficult to clean off. A much better material is an anti-oxident product. I got mine from Home Depot, in the electrical department. Comes in a white squeeze bottle; abt $8 for more than you could use in two lifetimes.

Can't remember the name and the bottle is on my Motorhome (never leave home without it); but you can't miss it.

Good stuff!

 

[MrNoodly]

"Dialectic" means "the art of investigating or discussing the truth of opinions." So dialectic grease might be something to make that go more smoothly, like good food and wine.

On the other hand, dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone-based grease that's designed to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. It also disrupts the flow of electrical current, which makes it good for lubricating and sealing the rubber parts of electrical connectors.

http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-dielectric-grease.htm

 

[rvpopeye]

Speed's talking about NoAlox,(I think)

 

[Matlock]

No-ox-id, common reference is no-ox. Smear a light coat of it on before and after a connection is made.
Standard hardware supply, Lowe's, depot, etc. Use it on anything mobile and electrical.

 

[speedhighway46]

RVpop: that's it! Thanks.

 

[SternWake]

I have had issues with old dielectric grease in connectors, not only did it not prevent the Oxidation of the contacts, it seemed to get hard and crusty and then seemed to inhibit electron flow, in some cases a reseating of the same connector the crusty grease would keep the contacts from making proper contact. I assumed the problem lay elsewhere and it turned into the wild goose chase, but the problem was the old hardened grease in the connector, which later flaked off the contacts like clear yet burnt scotch tape when i got a small sewing needle inside the sockets and mechanically abraded it.

My electrical connector/connection strategy is now this.

If a connector is not new and pristine, I clean it with DeOXit D5 or D100 using mini bottle brushes and precision cotton swabs.

I protect those cleaned conductive surfaces from oxidation with Either DeOxit Gold or Deoxit Shield, both of which are available in sprays or liquids.

After spraying the connector contacts with the Deoxit products, if the connector is located where it is prone to moisture, I will then smear Dielectric grease all around the exterior of the connector, pushing it into any voids. I DO NOT fill the connector with Dielectric grease then reconnect it. I feel this can actually push the spring loaded connectors away from each other, and lead to a poor or a outright failed electrical connection.

Battery posts I clean with Deoxit d5, attach ring terminal, tighten bolt, cover with dielectric grease.

I have not used the NoAlox, but I thought this was more for dissimilar metals, like aluminum wire used in Some older AC household wiring, and is not dielectrc, but designed to promote electric flow. I do not know, do not hold me to that.

The Caig products actually decrease the resistance in the connector for a while after application. In my opinion, it is magic electrical juice

I have taken to spraying circuit boards, like on my computer fans which are exposed to salty air, with Deoxit shield s5 spray. Recently some 12v LED bulbs, exposed to high levels of dust in my workshop had 1 or more of the emitters on teh bulb start flickering. I removed them, sprayed some Shield s5 spray on a Q tip, wiped the whole bulb, resistors and emitters, and contacts. No more flickering, so far.

http://caig.com/

My USB connectors also get the Deoxit gold treatment, but recently, after flying to the other side of the country, and having not performed the connector maintenance recently enough, my USB connectors caused me to think my Phone USB port had failed, or my Phone battery had failed, as it refused to charge but was showing it was charging and made the proper noises

Longer story shorter, the contacts, which were still nicely gold colored when strong light and magnification was used, had developed an invisible film which impeded electron flow. When I returned to My deOxit Supplies in my Van, and applied it to my connectors, everything magically started working properly again, and that microUSB connector would seat easily with that reassuring click.

 

[rvpopeye]

I have been using the Caig Deoxit products for many years now . Stern is right on about it's miracle properties . Get it use it. (The gold used to be blue but same results)
The No Alox is what electricians and the power co. use on service connections to main breaker panels . I have been using it for a long time too. It's kind of an industrial version of Caig gold. I use it everywhere after/during installing new or cleaning old connections on my rig. (be sure to squeeze the tube to mix it before every use ,it separates if not used a lot,,it should be grey not clear).

 

[Not That Bob]

Agree with all above.

Most people never have heard of Noalox, I'm impressed. When I tell people about it, usually get that Huh? look!

Noalox has powdered metal, aluminum I believe, suspended in a clear gel.

I use Noalox, wipe it clean after connected then coat with Dielectric grease or battery terminal spray to seal.

As a bonus, it acts like anti-seize to boot.

Did a lot of race-cars with rear mounted battery that had NO voltage drop at the starter.

 

[MrNoodly]

Somehow I managed to drive 48 years without ever using any of this stuff.

 

[Not That Bob]

Somehow I managed to drive 48 years without ever using any of this stuff.

They still make Bias Ply tires too.LOL

 

[blars]

I used noalox on my LiFePO4 battery posts. (Steel bolts in copper and aluminum terminals. I forget which is positive, they are also marked)