Corrosion inhibitors inside a crimp connection? Seems like a bad idea

[Ticklebellly]

But if talking about the join between two terminators like a spade connector M/F or Andersons etc, then I could see it more.

And it seems very common in aircraft, which have very stringent requirements.

So, like the old solder vs crimp, experts do disagree.

I am yet to see an Andersons on an aircraft.

Started maintenance work on Sabres in 71 and finished on Eurocopters lots of years later.    About 19 aircraft types in between.   Wrote and edited aircraft maintenance manuals, maintenance training, and Airworthiness certification procedures, in that time.   I'm with maki2 on this one.

In my experience, experts do not disagree.   And I am happy with that every time I go flying.

 

[maki2]

of course if what you are trying to prevent is the corrosion that happens at the battery terminal post.
AGM batteries and Litium batteries are by their nature of construction and design very unlikely to have that issue, it is the lead acid batteries that are more likely to develop it.

With Van dwellers who want to have their batteries inside without having them in a vented battery box most will choose to use AGM and now more increasingly they might choose Lithium batteries instead.

So for those of you who are newer to van dwelling if your budget forces you into using lead acid just to and get some of those corrosion inhibiting felt pads sold to put onto battery post. They really do work. Or purchase a product specifically made to apply to the battery post.

Any wire spices or terminals on the exterior then pay the couple of extra dollars and get the ones that have waterproofing heat shrink built into the connector. If you need a belt as well as suspenders then wrap over that splice join with the self fusing tape wrap from the automotive or marine stores.

If you are making a lot of splices and putting terminals on smaller gauge wires invest in a ratcheting wire terminal crimper. Those cheap plier types of crimpers sold in auto parts and hardware stores are horrid things. You have no guarantee of having gotten the right amount of pressure applied to the right spot on the crimps. The ratcheting crimper pliers take away the guess work by controlling the pressure and making sure enough was applied but not so much that it causes damage. They re much easier on your hands because of the built in mechanical advantage of the ratcheting mechanism. They are well worth that little extra money to make sure you got the job done just right. They can be purchased for under $25.00.

Another good tool for the small gauge wires is a pair of self adjusting (automatic) wire strippers. Also worth the few extra dollars and available for $10.00 to $30.00 range. Some of the less expensive ones seem to do just fine, if not get a refund and get a different pair.

 

[John61CT]

Every point of your disagreement was from your misinterpreting my words.

I was arguing against solder only reason brought up aviation standards.

I certainly never advocated putting anything in with the crimp.

And just to be clear, those that are already truly expert on using solder, fine NP.

But crimp tech lets even a minimally trained monkey turn out milspec gastight connections with repeatable reliability.

 

[Weight]

But crimp tech lets even a minimally trained monkey turn out milspec gastight connections with repeatable reliability.

This is totally dependent on having quality tools. If you are using AWG cables, the Harbor Freight stuff will only work by accident. Quality wire, quality ends, and quality tools. Tools that are made to fit the ends you are using. I have over 60 years commercial soldering experience and I will not use soldered joints on RV DC circuits. Solder has it's place but not in a vehicle except circuit-boards.

 

[maki2]

This is totally dependent on having quality tools. If you are using AWG cables, the Harbor Freight stuff will only work by accident. Quality wire, quality ends, and quality tools. Tools that are made to fit the ends you are using. I have over 60 years commercial soldering experience and I will not use soldered joints on RV  DC circuits. Solder has it's place but not in a vehicle except circuit-boards.

Of course you are stating what you personally would or would not do rather than saying what is actually being done by the RV and vehicle makers and the makers of automotive parts. What you do is very likely an upgrade to what they do. They are building to cost, things have to be done quickly, the minutes it takes count.

Right now I am doing my build next door to a West Marine store. They have a large professional quality crimper in the store for heavier cable work such as the battery cables. Their insurance does not allow the workers to do the crimping. The customers have to do the crimping but of course get instructional help from the clerks. I think that is really great as it lets customers gain new skills on good tools under supervision. They do sell all the wire and the terminals. They also have good quality smaller crimpers on hand that customers can use. I have my own smaller ones so I just use their large one. So if you have a West Marine store anywhere close by perhaps those who don't own good quality crimpers may be able to go to the store, buy the wire there of course and use the crimper to make up battery cable. West Marine, at least in Seattle, does price match to Fisheries Supply for the same items.

 

[John61CT]

This is totally dependent on having quality tools. If you are using AWG cables, the Harbor Freight stuff will only work by accident. Quality wire, quality ends, and quality tools. Tools that are made to fit the ends you are using. I have over 60 years commercial soldering experience and I will not use soldered joints on RV DC circuits. Solder has it's place but not in a vehicle except circuit-boards.

Yes, never said otherwise.

But they can be rented borrowed or use genuinedealz if not doing enough to justify buying them.

Solder no matter how good the tools most people can't ever get it right, even assuming they find a good teacher and practice enough.

And still won't pass a milspec test, so not verifiable for long, term reliability.

 

[highdesertranger]

come on people. I deleted couple of posts. let's have some respect. one post was delete for quoting a deleted post. I am not going to send PM's I am sure you can figure it out. highdesertranger

 

[jasper]

One of my greatest joys was being able to maintain and fly an Experimental Amateur Built airplane for nearly twenty years from my own grass strip. MUCH less expensive than General Aviation planes.  My maintenance had to be inspected by someone else. Talk about freedom.  There was no requirement for insurance if you were brave/dumb enough. No pulling off beside the road to see what's wrong.

Now too old for that and just enjoying camping, it's wonderful to go back to the simplicity of charging batteries and maintaining simple 12v systems and accessories.

Gone are the days of ego-thrashing and listening to things like a three-hour discussion/argument as to whether the word "shall" or "will" should be used in a regulation's sentence, or having high voltage joints dissected to maintain your squeezing credentials.  There are valid reasons for that sort of thing.

Dear old Dad attached wooden blocks to the tractor's pedals so I could reach them at about age ten.  I watched the ammeter fly way over to the right, then come back to almost zero while plowing.  Same thing now as I watch for battery charging.

I don't worry excessively about connections, mainly visuals and simple voltage tests while charging, and keeping an eye on current suffices for me. Some old soldiers never die, but in my case, I've downgraded.

Just maybe I'll live long enough to appreciate the latest battery technology.

 

[Redbearded]

Something that comes to mind for me is where the terminal/connection is located would make a lot of difference. For example, I would treat a connection that was underwater or in a place that was never going to see any moisture very differently (connection style, insulation type, wire type, etc.) I'm sure that there are places for most types of joints which leads to different opinions on what to use where. I'm not afraid to do things overkill, but I also realize that I don't need a connection that will last 50 years because likely things will have changed by then.

Realize that most good engineering decisions are made with respect to all of the known realistic conditions then adding in as many extreme conditions as you can sneak past the accountants. There are lots of reasons a lot of companies making well-built stuff go out of business, and the cost is a major one.