It has occurred to me that, while I love my RV for the two of us, it would be a very bad choice for me if I were alone. It is about storage. A major part of our inside storage is under the bed, which I cannot get at by myself. What things are deal breakers for otherwise good rv's for you?
Choosing The Home on Wheels For You
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We have a short list but very specific list of must have items - large windows for light and ventilation, short length and at least 40 gallons of fresh water with a gray water tank that is close to the same size.
Deal Killer: A booth dinette. I am sure they have their place in the RV world, but it will not be in MY place! In my 15'er (my home for over a year), that was the only place to sit. It was a nightmare of discomfort. If there had been any way to replace it with a chair, I would have but it was located over the wheel well and a chair wouldn't fit there. Never again!
My considerations: (1) Small enough to not have to downsize in the future (2) No OSB (3) I used to like A-Liner's motto "No boundaries" as that is just an awesome thought but they use OSB. Having had other RVs, I am well aware of the issues and costs involved when things go wrong. RV systems are expensive to repair and maintain. The more simple the better. I have always been very frugal so am scouring for that nearly perfect fit at a nearly perfect price.
cyndi
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I downsized from a class C to a van.
My non-negotiable, priority list included:
a high or bubble top,
1996 or newer,
less than 120 miles (I kind of picked that number out of a hat)
no more than 3 owners
had to pass a mechanic's inspection.
no camper vans (no electric, propane or plumbing)
My non-negotiable, priority list included:
a high or bubble top,
1996 or newer,
less than 120 miles (I kind of picked that number out of a hat)
no more than 3 owners
had to pass a mechanic's inspection.
no camper vans (no electric, propane or plumbing)
Almost There
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My deal breakers were:
Nothing other than cargo van - I can add windows, I can't add wall space.
Newer than 15 years - I've owned vans for 40 years now and I wanted newer, not older.
If it didn't have a high top, it was getting one added. None of this low roof stuff for me, this is my retirement home.
As low mileage as I can find, but definitely less than a 100 G.
Oh, and gcal, there are shock absorber type lifts that the bed can be outfitted with to give you easy lifting of the platform so you can access the storage compartment.
Nothing other than cargo van - I can add windows, I can't add wall space.
Newer than 15 years - I've owned vans for 40 years now and I wanted newer, not older.
If it didn't have a high top, it was getting one added. None of this low roof stuff for me, this is my retirement home.
As low mileage as I can find, but definitely less than a 100 G.
Oh, and gcal, there are shock absorber type lifts that the bed can be outfitted with to give you easy lifting of the platform so you can access the storage compartment.
^
We have looked at the hydraulic lift helper systems and been told they will not work on our bed. It was originally set up only for ducting, hoses and wiring and was specifically labeled as not a storage area. Plus, we have an extra thick mattress (also extra heavy) that sits on top. DH has an idea, but it would require completely tearing the bed out and redoing everything, from the floor up, rebuilding it, and reinstalling the crazy octopus of wiring and ducting. DH is a retired design engineer. I am sure he could figure out a way to do it. But I am not sure if he could find a reasonable way.
He has been thinking of replacing our mattress with a Sleep Number air mattress unit. Once that mattress weight is gone, there should not be a problem.
We have looked at the hydraulic lift helper systems and been told they will not work on our bed. It was originally set up only for ducting, hoses and wiring and was specifically labeled as not a storage area. Plus, we have an extra thick mattress (also extra heavy) that sits on top. DH has an idea, but it would require completely tearing the bed out and redoing everything, from the floor up, rebuilding it, and reinstalling the crazy octopus of wiring and ducting. DH is a retired design engineer. I am sure he could figure out a way to do it. But I am not sure if he could find a reasonable way.
He has been thinking of replacing our mattress with a Sleep Number air mattress unit. Once that mattress weight is gone, there should not be a problem.
minimotos95
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The obvious deal breaker for me is If I don't like it, which usually means it lacks any personality or "soul" and I usually try to look at things purely from a logical perspective but with vehicles the real determining factor is whether I actually like it. I've made the mistake of buying based purely on logic before, it didn't work.
Other deal breakers being a bad reputation like the 6.0l powerstroke or GM 2.8L V6 has. Cramped engine bays also are a factor that would make me say no, if I can't replace the sparkplug in a few minutes, all without bending over to get in a wheel well or underneath we have an issue.
Features that I really hate but can live with are power windows, locks and seats. OBD1 and OBD0 fuel injection and electronic ignition systems suck to work on, so I would prefer carb'd or OBD2.
Other deal breakers being a bad reputation like the 6.0l powerstroke or GM 2.8L V6 has. Cramped engine bays also are a factor that would make me say no, if I can't replace the sparkplug in a few minutes, all without bending over to get in a wheel well or underneath we have an issue.
Features that I really hate but can live with are power windows, locks and seats. OBD1 and OBD0 fuel injection and electronic ignition systems suck to work on, so I would prefer carb'd or OBD2.
Canine
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RV's use poor insulation and what they do use is poorly installed. Paying for all the extra niceties is hard to swallow. Not as maneuverable. That stuff outweighs having extra room.
Almost There
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Height is a big consideration...not necessarily of you but of the type of high top on a vehicle. None but the 24" high top like mine will allow even a 5' tall person to fully stand up inside unless it's a Class B with a dropped floor pan in the middle corridor (Roadtreks do this).
The regular conversion van 'tv top' is only there to provide decent head room when seated in the captains' chairs they use. Ceiling height is something like 4'9" +/- in them.
With the 24" high top even someone 6'+ can stand up in it. With both my finished floor (1") and the finished ceiling (app 2"), I still have a standing height of about 6'2".
Your own weight won't make much difference unless you're talking well over 250, then it only matters in how you build the furniture like the bed and how much aisle space you leave yourself between cabinets and such.
The regular conversion van 'tv top' is only there to provide decent head room when seated in the captains' chairs they use. Ceiling height is something like 4'9" +/- in them.
With the 24" high top even someone 6'+ can stand up in it. With both my finished floor (1") and the finished ceiling (app 2"), I still have a standing height of about 6'2".
Your own weight won't make much difference unless you're talking well over 250, then it only matters in how you build the furniture like the bed and how much aisle space you leave yourself between cabinets and such.
I had not thought about the drop floors on a Class B. I suppose that could seriously limit any off roading, or even some rough roads. We have been in campgrounds with potholes that could nearly have swallowed my whole toad.
Almost There
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I don't think that the dropped floor causes any limitation that way. The floor drop is only about 6" so there's more things like the discharge pipes for the holding tanks that would be more problematic than the floor bottom.
I'm clumsy enough because of a balance problem that the dropped floor would definitely be a trip hazard for me. I'd be either falling in or out of the vehicle on a regular basis and getting up is not pretty in the narrow hallway of a Class B.
I'm clumsy enough because of a balance problem that the dropped floor would definitely be a trip hazard for me. I'd be either falling in or out of the vehicle on a regular basis and getting up is not pretty in the narrow hallway of a Class B.
I looked at drop floor minivans, e.g. the ones designed to accommodate a wheelchair, but after reading online reviews it seems a lot of people have massive issues with ground clearance, as in will bottom out every time they go over a speed bump. I don't know how these compare to the typical clearance of dropped floor class B's.
For me, when picking my current one the absolute non-negotiable was the ability for the vehicle to fit in stealth parking at my most comfortable spots. That meant it had to be new-ish, no larger than a minivan, and no damage or modifications that catches attention.
For me, when picking my current one the absolute non-negotiable was the ability for the vehicle to fit in stealth parking at my most comfortable spots. That meant it had to be new-ish, no larger than a minivan, and no damage or modifications that catches attention.
Canine
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When I drove bus for the Transit, the company also had Dodge Caravans converted for wheelchair transport. When the vans went over a curb, they got high-centered. Not scraping, but actually stuck. That is the extreme, though. I doubt a standard drop would be that low.
Just came in from walking the dog. Reminded me of another deal breaker. Really high stairs! I carry 30 extra pounds and I have arthritis in my back, hips, knees and feet. Nothing that holds me back, but the high rises they put in these stairs to save floor space is a killer. While I am complaining, I would like the outside storage bins to be pàrt of the slides so we do not have to crawl to get into them and I do not want slides under the awning or right next to the door. Actually, if I had my druthers, I would not have slides at all and just get a few more feet of length if we wanted the space.
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