Carla's Camper

[user 22017]

About 6000 lbs is your trailer gross weight, and about 900 pounds, more or less, will be your tongue weight.

You are likely going to need a class 4 (or higher) weight distributing hitch.

And yes, that trailer is required to have, and came from the factory with, electric brakes.

You will need a 7 pin RV receptacle near the rear hitch and an electric brake controller.

It is common for older trailers to have some problems with the electric brakes, so you should budget for that as well.

Thanks Tx

 

[Happy Camper]

I love the fact that I can give decent general information that points in the (mostly usually) correct direction. And Tx can come in with specifics and clean up any mess I might have made lol.

It helps to have great resources here.

 

[user 22017]

I love the fact that I can give decent general information that points in the (mostly usually) correct direction. And Tx can come in with specifics and clean up any mess I might have made lol.

It helps to have great resources here.

You make a great team

 

[rruff]

It is common for older trailers to have some problems with the electric brakes, so you should budget for that as well.

I don't tow trailers, so have little experience with that... but from a strictly physics standpoint, you want the trailer brakes to work really good! If you have to rely on the brakes of the old truck to stop everything, many unsettling things can happen. The stopping distance will be pretty long even if all is perfect condition, due to weight.

 

[tx2sturgis]

This is a serious trailer, and you need a serious tow vehicle with adequate towing ability.

In addition, your combination will need the heavy duty hardware to make towing safe.

I recommend etrailer.com, they are pros and they have online help to get you on the road with what you need.

Here is one of the WD hitches with sway control that will be close to what you will need:

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Reese/RP66073.html

 

[user 22017]

I don't tow trailers, so have little experience with that... but from a strictly physics standpoint, you want the trailer brakes to work really good! If you have to rely on the brakes of the old truck to stop everything, many unsettling things can happen. The stopping distance will be pretty long even if all is perfect condition, due to weight.

My mechanic told me this truck should not have been towing what it was bought for: a 10,000 pound 5th wheel. I thought it was a farm truck until I went through all the documents. I saw the holes in the bed where the 5th wheel hitch was. And the outlet for the trailer lights is up closer to the cab where the hitch was).

Hope it didn't shorten the life of my truck, because I'm planning on it making it to 600K miles or more

 

[user 22017]

This is a serious trailer, and you need a serious tow vehicle with adequate towing ability.

In addition, your combination will need the heavy duty hardware to make towing safe.

I recommend etrailer.com, they are pros and they have online help to get you on the road with what you need.

Here is one of the WD hitches with sway control that will be close to what you will need:

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Reese/RP66073.html

Tx, Is that what I should order?

The mechanic doesn't usually put on hitches. He owns an AAMCO dealership. I told him about eTrailer. He is open to doing anything I tell him. I mean, easy to work with.

 

[rruff]

Hope it didn't shorten the life of my truck, because I'm planning on it making it to 600K miles or more

If you keep fixing what's broke, it will last forever...

I like old vehicles that are kinda simple. If anything on it dies, you can just get a rebuilt part for cheap. I seriously considered getting an old truck just for that reason, but decided that a new Toyota would be less hassle... though obviously way more up front.

 

[Happy Camper]

Sounds like you should engage with e trailer. Give them the info on your truck and trailer and see what they recommend.

 

[user 22017]

Sounds like you should engage with e trailer. Give them the info on your truck and trailer and see what they recommend.

I'll talk to them. Thanks HC

 

[tx2sturgis]

Yes, the combined knowledge of your mechanic and the folks at etrailer will far surpass my knowledge and experience, or at least I hope so!

Carla please consult with them and let us know what they recommend before you order anything.

 

[user 22017]

Yes, the combined knowledge of your mechanic and the folks at etrailer will far surpass my knowledge and experience, or at least I hope so!

Carla please consult with them and let us know what they recommend before you order anything.

I just sent them a message. They'll be in touch. Thanks Tx

 

[WanderingRose]

I don't think I have a generator. It would have an outside door, right?

You won’t necessarily have a door, maybe just a switch inside.

My generator is underneath my rig, and accessed that way.

 

[NctryBen]

About 6000 lbs is your trailer gross weight, and about 900 pounds, more or less, will be your tongue weight.

You are likely going to need a class 4 (or higher) weight distributing hitch.

And yes, that trailer is required to have, and came from the factory with, electric brakes.

You will need a 7 pin RV receptacle near the rear hitch and an electric brake controller.

It is common for older trailers to have some problems with the electric brakes, so you should budget for that as well.

It couldn’t be said better than this... I’m guessing e-trailer folks will concur...

 

[abnorm]

...................and you have to have the Trailer at the HITCH install

 

[tx2sturgis]

Yes the frame mount hitch (class 4 most likely) had been covered earlier in the thread.

The entire package of frame mount receiver hitch and weight distributing/sway control unit all need to be compatible and in the same weight capacity range.

It all needs to be setup by someone who KNOWS what they are doing.

Again this is a serious trailer size, and this all needs to be done correctly.

 

[user 22017]

You won’t necessarily have a door, maybe just a switch inside.

My generator is underneath my rig, and accessed that way.

Thanks Rose

 

[user 22017]

Yes the frame mount hitch (class 4 most likely) had been covered earlier in the thread.

The entire package of frame mount receiver hitch and weight distributing/sway control unit all need to be compatible and in the same weight capacity range.

It all needs to be setup by someone who KNOWS what they are doing.

Again this is a serious trailer size, and this all needs to be done correctly.

I just replied to the woman at etrailer.

When I bought my used topper the guys at the junkyard told me my rear bumper wasn't original. Will that matter? Dumb question, I know. There is a small gap between bumper and the truck body. That is how they knew it wasn't original.

Edit: they replied again. Gave me two recommendations. A Class 4 and a class V:

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Draw-Tite/41004.html
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/CURT/C15300.html
So now I need to ask about weight distribution?

 

[abnorm]

You have a couple components to deal with

The Receiver mounted to the truck

The Weight Distributing Hitch......slides into the receiver/holds the Ball (EXTRA$)/and torsion bars.... The torsion/sway bars attach to the trailer with short chains.......to Saddle mounts on the trailer frame....all included in that TX's link

and the Electrical ........if the 5th wheel elect is Perfect......you can find 12 foot 7-pin extension cords online for $50
Plug-n-Play................OR he'll rewire

When you hitch up with a weight distributing hitch you actually force the torsion bars to bend........this lifts the hitch point and shifts the weight Forward to the front wheels as well as Down to the trailer wheels.....and sway-bars resist the tail-wagging

Good Luck

 

[user 22017]

You have a couple components to deal with

The Receiver mounted to the truck

The Weight Distributing Hitch......slides into the receiver/holds the Ball (EXTRA$)/and torsion bars.... The torsion/sway bars attach to the trailer with short chains.......to Saddle mounts on the trailer frame....all included in that TX's link

and the Electrical ........if the 5th wheel elect is Perfect......you can find 12 foot 7-pin extension cords online for $50
Plug-n-Play................OR he'll rewire

When you hitch up with a weight distributing hitch you actually force the torsion bars to bend........this lifts the hitch point and shifts the weight Forward to the front wheels as well as Down to the trailer wheels.....and sway-bars resist the tail-wagging

Good Luck

Thanks Norm. I have a lot of reading to do. And I need to call my mechanic for his input.

In etrailer's last response they asked me to read this:

When Do You Need a Weight Distribution Hitch?

Your tow vehicle's owner's manual should provide you with tow weight specifications and information regarding weight distribution use. For instance, the 2018 Chevy Traverse owner's manual states that weight distribution and sway control are required when towing a trailer over 5,000 lbs.

For safety and liability reasons, you should always comply with manufacturer instructions. If you choose not to, and a problem arises, your insurance company may not be there to help (especially for a commercial business) since you chose to ignore manufacturer recommendations.

Even if you are within the towing limits set by your equipment, vehicle manufacturer, etc., there are other indicators that you may benefit from a weight distribution hitch, including:

- Your trailer weight (GTW) is more than 50% of your vehicle's weight (GVWR)
- The rear of your tow vehicle sags when the trailer is hooked up
- You experience trailer sway
- Your tow vehicle's headlights point upward
- You find it difficult to steer or stop your rig
- You want to tow to the highest capacity allowed by your trailer hitch