Calculating daily watt hours – Am I doing it right?

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You aren't going to have the induction cooker on full blast for the full hour, but it is still good to round up. Lentil soup is better the longer it cooks, so a thermal cooker would help a lot in conjunction with a pressure cooker. Here is my thought: Start the soup in a pressure cooker. Then after 15 minutes or so transfer that to a non-electric thermal slow cooker. Her is a link for one (should you make an actual purchase, please go through one of Bob's Amazon links so he gets a little $$$ from his Amazon business):

http://www.amazon.com/NFI-A800-Non-...13767595&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+cooker+tiger

This will save a lot of energy and slow cooking it will make it that much better. An insulated cover that does the same thing is also available. It wraps the pressure cooker itself so you wouldn't need to transfer the soup from one pot to another. It is much cheaper and takes up less space than another large pot. And I've heard they work very well.

I have a Jet Boil. It boils water FAST and does it more efficiently than any camping stove. You can technically cook in it, but it is really made only for heating water. If you use this, it will not heat up your house as much as the open flame of a propane stove. Less concern for carbon monoxide, too. I have little concern for carbon monoxide even from a propane stove, but if I can minimize my exposure, then I'm all for it. Anyway, it is an extremely efficient and cheap way to heat water. You can heat water in the Jet Boil first then use electric for the cooking part.

I tested to see how much fuel I would use and it lasted two weeks. I heated water for a shower every day. Heated water for shaving every other day. I boiled water for a couple of dehydrated meals when camping. All of this for $4.00 worth of fuel! One small canister every two weeks! Incredible.

Also, I read of a guy that used two inverters for his set up. When hooked up to batteries, an inverter will still have a phantom draw. Larger ones more than others. So if he were to use an induction stove, he would have a switch that would connect the large inverter then use the cook top. When done, he would disconnect the large inverter via the switch. For his lights, computer, and stuff he would use at any time or all the time, he would hook those up to a smaller inverter and leave it connected all the time.

MPPT charge controllers are more efficient, but are more expensive initially than standard charge controllers. Well worth it though.

As you can see, my suggestions are more about being as efficient as possible rather than adding more panels. You need a certain number of panels and your roof will hold only so many panels. Heating and cooling with electricity is expensive, but it is doable to a point.

I, too, am entertaining the though of an induction cook top. As has been said, batteries dislike having huge loads placed on them. I'm looking at an 800 watt unit. Yes, it will take longer, but 800 watts to boil water is still a lot of power for a single person in my opinion. For cooking larger volumes, I would wonder if 800 watts would be enough. 1500 watts would be nice, but sacrifices need to be made until solar technology advances even more.

I'm going to get a 300 watt electric immersion heater to see how long it takes to boil water and will use a Kill A Watt meter to see how many watts it takes. I may be surprised. My 1000 watt hot pot boils 4 cups of water in 2 1/2 minutes using 100 watts. That's pretty fast. If I can drop the watts used even more, that would be significant. I don't have a lot of expectation, though. Still, it's worth a try.

One last thought. When converting DC electricity from the batteries to AC using the inverter, energy is lost in the conversion. Using DC as close to the battery as possible will be more efficient in a 12 volt system.
 
Seraphim said:
Why not invest in a battery monitor? They can track your usage for you. At 1100 watt draw, your batteries - from a full charge - should run your microwave for about 2 hours. Then you'd be at 50%.

Propane made DW nervous as well, at first. Now she has no issue with it.


Oh, a battery monitor is a sure thing. It was budgeted in with the rest of the solar power setup though. And, I'm not quite ready to pull the trigger on that yet.
 
amwbox said:
I've had a devil of a time finding real numbers about solar output during rainy conditions in wet climates. Everyone is full of info about best case scenarios where they're sucking in hundreds of watts when the sun is beating down...but its a big blank when I try to get some concrete figures about winter production in the great northwestern rainforest.

Which I assume to be simply because its an amount so trivial as to ignore completely.

The reason you can find lots of data on 'best case' is because it is reproducible. Conditions are controlled. Conditions in the real world have so many uncontrolled variables that any test data is specific to a particular installation under local conditions.

The data you want is available from places like National Renewable Energy Lab and Arizona Solar Center, but for individual cells and you need to know a lot about the controlling variables. The best you will probably get are personal experiences like highdesertranger's response.

One thing I would recommend, since you are working with AC appliances, is a Kill-A-Watt meter. It will give you real numbers to work with, not published numbers. It helped me a lot when I was trying to figure out appliance energy usage. It does not replace a 12V amp counter, but does a similar function for AC. I think I paid $25 for mine on Amazon.

-- Spiff
 
The problem with cloudy days is that the thickness of the clouds is very variable. If it's overcast but you can still see a faint shadow, you will get quite a bit of power. If there is no shadow some but not much. Maybe an amp or two. If it's dark, thick clouds virtually no power and rain in the sky is none.

I gotta be honest and say if you are going to live in the PNW solar is not a great investment. If your situation allows you to run a generator I would get it first.
Bob
 
Agreed. I live in the PNW and it rains or is overcast 7 months or (easily) more per year. Luckily for me my power requirements would be low. I just need some juice to charge up my (large screen) smart phone and power to run a small fan as much as possible to aid in ventilation.
 
amwbox said:
Oh, a battery monitor is a sure thing. It was budgeted in with the rest of the solar power setup though. And, I'm not quite ready to pull the trigger on that yet.

The monitor was one of our first purchases, to study our usage. It convinced us not to go to the expenses of solar panel, because our RV lifestyle didn't need them.


Spiff

Just my opinion, but I think it helps more to know the actual drain on the battery when an appliance is turned on. It does for me, as I'm no electrical engineer lol. That's the bottom line, whether solar panels/inverter is installed, or not. The Kill-a-Watt meter would then be a less versatile redundancy and an extra expense.
 
thanks everyone for the replies about cloudy days. I need the tri-metric, then I would have some real numbers. highdesertranger
 
Seraphim said:
The monitor was one of our first purchases, to study our usage. It convinced us not to go to the expenses of solar panel, because our RV lifestyle didn't need them.


Spiff

Just my opinion, but I think it helps more to know the actual drain on the battery when an appliance is turned on. It does for me, as I'm no electrical engineer lol. That's the bottom line, whether solar panels/inverter is installed, or not. The Kill-a-Watt meter would then be a less versatile redundancy and an extra expense.



Well, the solar would be the only option for putting a real charge into the batteries. Using the alternator would take literally hours and hours. (to FULLY charge them, as opposed to merely up to 80-85%) Same with a generator. I guess I could just accept that my battery bank is going to be running at less than fully charged pretty much all the time and I'll have dramatically reduced battery service life. Which sucks. Batteries are expensive.

*Shrug*
 
amwbox said:
Well, the solar would be the only option for putting a real charge into the batteries. Using the alternator would take literally hours and hours. (to FULLY charge them, as opposed to merely up to 80-85%) Same with a generator. I guess I could just accept that my battery bank is going to be running at less than fully charged pretty much all the time and I'll have dramatically reduced battery service life. Which sucks. Batteries are expensive.

*Shrug*

Wasn't suggesting you not use solar, merely that installing a monitor first might assist your decision making process.


Monitoring your usage for a while may cement or make you change your mind about components or capacities, and may end up saving you some cash.


Idling, the alternator will provide about 5amps per hour - judged by by my trimetric monitor. A generator does about the same. Driving, I'm probably getting about 25+ amps per hour from the alternator (my truck has two) . Just info that might be helpful. Good luck...
 
Seraphim said:
The monitor was one of our first purchases, to study our usage. It convinced us not to go to the expenses of solar panel, because our RV lifestyle didn't need them.


Spiff

Just my opinion, but I think it helps more to know the actual drain on the battery when an appliance is turned on. It does for me, as I'm no electrical engineer lol. That's the bottom line, whether solar panels/inverter is installed, or not. The Kill-a-Watt meter would then be a less versatile redundancy and an extra expense.



I agree. I have a Trimetric 2030 and it gives more and better information. It's significantly more expensive. I have ~$190 invested in mine; Kill-A-Watt ~$25. Amnbox is talking about running a lot of 120V appliances off inverters and a Kill-A-Watt would give him some basic information with a lot less expense. It would tell him nothing about the state of his batteries or how much he is putting into them.

-- Spiff
 
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