Am I making Bad Solar choices?

[barleyguy]

Qxxx & skyl4rk thank you both VERY much for your inputs.  Extremely helpful,  I think based of that having 200W and 200Ah battery would be plenty provided I hold off on getting a fridge.  Or if anything I would need to actually calculate it's power consumption beforehand to see if my system could support it comfortable once I do get my system up and running.


So my solar system would consist of..

two $180 100Ah batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Po...=1597697567&sprefix=100ah+dee,aps,162&sr=8-10

two $105 100W solar panels

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GF5JY35/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

one$136 40Amp  Solar Controller (incase I want to ad panels, but likely maybe just get a 2nd controller then I could use different panels)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNVTJHD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Grand total 706 Or about 630 if I only get the 20Amp solar controller.  Although if I nix one of those batteries with the 20Amp solar controler it be about 460.  That might be much more price friendly to start off.  Then that would pretty much seal my fate of no fridge at least unit I were to upgrade the system.


Would it be bad to add a brand new 100ah battery into the system say in 2-3 years?

I don't see an inverter in that list. If you want to power any 120 volt devices you'll need an inverter. Even for just 5 volt USB and 12 volt, you'll need USB or lighter ports.

 

[Qxxx]

The only problem with a central power source like a jackery would be wires running everywhere unless everything is kept central to where it is.  I installed power ports at the point of use.  I never trip over a wire or pull something off the counter/shelf.

Yeah, as I indicated that is a MAJOR trade off. In general you have to know what you're doing if you're going to wire the entire inside of your rig with 120VAC wires, inverters, sockets mounted in the walls, fuses or breakers, etc. as well additional 12VDC wires and sockets. Or else get someone else to do it for you.

In your case Brian, I imagine that "Beast" of yours was already wired. My van was a vacuum inside, lol.

 

[skyl4rk]

Lithium batteries won't charge below freezing, so get lead acid batteries.

 

[B and C]

In your case Brian, I imagine that "Beast" of yours was already wired. My van was a vacuum inside, lol.

I haven't added any 120v outlets but a lot of power ports and usb ports have been added.  I have an inverter but only used it once when I threw an extension cord to a friend.

 

[barleyguy]

Lithium batteries won't charge below freezing, so get lead acid batteries.

Good charge controllers will automatically start charging when the temperature gets above freezing, and stop charging when it gets below. Also, lithium batteries can be used and discharged below freezing just fine. And they are safe for use in your living space, so if you keep your living space above freezing that also helps.

In my opinion this isn't a strong reason not to get lithium batteries, because they otherwise have massive advantages over lead acid.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

 . . .freezing . . .
In my opinion this isn't a strong reason not to get lithium batteries, because they otherwise have massive advantages over lead acid.

But cost is not one of lithium's advantages, especially for 'learner' batteries.  The pain for the early death of an $180 battery is a lot less than for an $800+ battery.

 

[Qxxx]

3 years ago I spent a month in AZ and NM when the temperatures were down in the low 20s every night. Nice. Here is what Goal Zero says about low temperature use.

https://www.goalzero.com/blog/yeti-tips-and-tricks/
"COLD WEATHER USAGE
If you’re planning on using your Yeti in cold (sub-freezing) conditions, there’s a possibility you’ll run into some issues. When Yetis are too cold (32°F), they will stop accepting a charge, and if they’re even colder (-4°F), they’ll stop outputting power. A simple solution – keep your Yeti in a cooler. That extra layer of insulation and the natural heat created by the Yeti during use or while charging will help keep your Yeti working well in those frigid temperatures".

Here is what my Yeti 1000 User Guide says:

"COLD WEATHER USAGE
If you’ll be out living off-grid in sub-zero conditions, we recommend keeping your Goal Zero Yeti in an insulated cooler, connected to a power source (solar panels), and charging your gear. The natural heat generated by the Goal Zero Yeti contained in an insulated cooler will keep the battery capacity at its highest".

 

[barleyguy]

But cost is not one of lithium's advantages, especially for 'learner' batteries.  The pain for the early death of an $180 battery is a lot less than for an $800+ battery.

True, but lithium is also a lot harder to kill. You can kill a lead acid battery just by over discharging it, whereas that's not much of a problem with lithium.

 

[VanFan]

Here is what my Yeti 1000 User Guide says:

"COLD WEATHER USAGE...

What about heat?

 

[Qxxx]

The spec in the Yeti manual says 32-104F.

 

[skyl4rk]

I don't heat my van while sleeping, so it goes down to ambient temps every night. I need electric power to run my furnace in the morning. Lithium is not a good choice when traveling through cold areas such as the Great Lakes or Northern Plains.

 

[barleyguy]

Why? Were you planning to charge your batteries with all the sun you get at night?

 

[Qxxx]

What about heat?

More info from the inside of the top lid of the Yeti 1000.

"Charging temperature: 32F to 104F
Discharging temperature: -14F to 140F"