Building Carmon

[KatBalouE350]

Just my $.02 on power. For your needs I'd do a small solar system on the roof for your normal day to day needs like fan and charging electronics. 200 watts should be enough with an equal amount of battery storage. This will also run a small 12 volt fridge as long as it's an efficient one. Then have a small generator to run the microwave and ac occasionally. The panels can be mounted flat, yes they will gain more power if you tilt them, but as long as you park in the sun they should be enough without tilting Mount your generator on a hitch hauler or similar, preferably in a locking box. But make sure you can run it without having to move it as you'll need probably a 2000 watt generator to run the ac and you won't want to be constantly lifting that. You could even have the box made out of expanded metal, basically heavy screen material, so it could breath and stay cool.

Masterplumber, I think a generator outside my van would dissappear around here even in a lock box. Doing research on how to put solar panels on a odd shaped roof as mine is. I have a very small flat area down the middle, but I don't think a panel will fit.

 

[rvpopeye]

A lot of us hear you about generators that grow legs....
I have a Honda 2000 generator and I keep it inside except when I want to use it.

I saw a van that had the solar panel mounted above the side window on hinges so it could just be tipped up when needed and still worked some while going down the road if the sun was on the right side.

Not saying you have to do this but just one option among many.

 

[AbuelaLoca]

I'm looking into some really tall ladder/roof racks to go on mine for the solar panels... will probably cost me, but it is what it is!!

 

[Txjaybird]

That is how I had to overcome feeling of remorse at seeing bare wires and metal yesterday by saying to eat an elephant is one bite at a time. I have been living in the van over a month now so it was a shock to my eyes at first when I checked on my son's progress towards the end. Was glad to see the extra space in the ceiling though. Will probably take out the crossbars.

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My 1998 GMC conversion van has a similarly formed high top.  Since it will be part of a 2 unit traveling show {sometimes I feel like my life is a circus}, with the other part a Aliner TT I decided to leave well enough alone as the interior is in good shape. 

 I'm wondering if those cross members serve as  any type of structural support members of the roof?  If not they still might at some point come in handy to fasten things to or hang stuff from?  I do see with them gone you gain "attic" space.

Your van is a nice size.  I think in a few years I'll need to stop towing/setting up a T.T. and at that time I'll begina my search for a hightop 3/4 or 1 ton van.

Jewellann

 

[KatBalouE350]

Belinda, that may be what I will have to do also along with a some contraption for easy tilt. For now I may just go with portable panels. The temps here are already mid 90's so need to get moving on my electrical. Either that or some sort of small battery charger that will handle whatever batteries I get. I'm still studying what will work for me including the possibility of a small generator. The use of my alternator won't work cause I rarely drive more than 10 minutes, unless going camping.

Jewellanne, the crossbars don't touch any part of the roof but, I agree with the others in earlier posts that they are most likely part of the sidewalls structural integrity. The problem is, while I can stand up under them at 5'2" my quests, few as they are, can't ...especially, when I put the subfloor in.
Well back to reading....slowly it's starting to sink in a little at a tme. I think anyway, lol!

 

[KatBalouE350]

Oh...Popeye, if I can move around a generator I might be able to store it in the van. Wondering if anyone has ran one of the quieter gens inside and vented outward. I would think to do this there would have to be a good fan directed at it. Is this possible or even feasible? Does anyone have input on tbis idea?

 

[rvpopeye]

OOOOO .I'd really suggest not doing that!

I always point the exhaust away from the rig and try to place it down wind , sometimes at the end of a heavy ext. cord for less noise . My Honda 2000 is 47# , the 1000 is a bit lighter but don't know exact weight.

Wish I could give away some of my 6'6" ceiling height , I'm 5'1" and still shrinking from my all time high of 5'4" .....

(Buy a bike helmet at a thrift shop and offer it to guests ????)
Skuh kuh kuh kuh

 

[KatBalouE350]

I know popeye, it was more of a wishful want. Not sure I can push around 50 lb gen so will keep reading. Most likely will be using portable panels and golf cart batteries, allowing for easy access of course.

 

[masterplumber]

I think the Honda 1000 only weighs 27 lbs. But you'd need 2 of them to run a small ac. A 1000 will charge your batteries with no problems however.

 

[ArtW]

AC off battery bank, genny to charge battery bank
A 1000 will run some 5000 btu ACs, it just won't start them
The batteries buffer the startup surge

 

[masterplumber]

That's a good idea to try Art, as start up surge is usually the problem.

 

[KatBalouE350]

Thanks for the idea Art. I will check into it.

 

[Almost There]

I think the Honda 1000 only weighs 27 lbs. But you'd need 2 of them to run a small ac. A 1000 will charge your batteries with no problems however.

The weight is correct but whether or not a single 1000 will charge your batteries is entirely dependent on what battery bank you're charging. My battery bank needed a 55 amp charger to do the job and the single 1000 wouldn't cover it.

I now carry 2 - Honda 1000s and the parallel cable for them. They breeze along and I can run other stuff as well when the battery charger is working it's little heart out...

I chose to use the 2 gennies in parallel because while I can lift a 2000 off the ground, getting it in the back of the van is an entirely 'nother story...

And I sadly admitted to myself (shush y'all now) that I'm just not getting any younger....

 

[masterplumber]

Ha, Almost There, I was actually thinking of a discussion we had when I mentioned the weight of the 1000. I'm glad you piped in about the real world result. I've always planned to get a 2000 as I'm more concerned with running tools than AC units, but want it also as a backup to run my built in inteli charger/power supply if needed. I'm still able to lift well over 100 lbs, so moving the 2000 shouldn't be an issue for the time being, but I'm sure time or one serious injury could change that.

 

[Ballenxj]

All those holes to plug! Lost count at 25. We use the bolts after cleaning them for the 2 plates and bench we took out. Plugged the others with pennies and silicon or just silicon on small screw holes and covered all with with liquid rubber in a can. Used Rustoleum reformer on surface rust then painted entire floor.

I like the nice clean looking Blue floor. A very good way to start your build.

 

[KatBalouE350]

That is how I had to overcome feeling of remorse at seeing bare wires and metal yesterday by saying to eat an elephant is one bite at a time. I have been living in the van over a month now so it was a shock to my eyes at first when I checked on my son's progress towards the end. Was glad to see the extra space in the ceiling though. Will probably take out the crossbars.

[/size]

I need your opinions regarding the welded crossbeams shown in this pic. My son describes them as a roll bar. I called Ford service dept. to inquire if and why they put these in. The answer was Ford would not weld anything like this and they would be a customer after market install. They do not touch the fiberglass hightop but run only from wall to wall. I want to remove them because they are far to low and will be hard to work around when installing insulation. I haven't yet seen such a thing in any other van with a hightop. The company who installed the top is no longer in business. 

Do you think the wheelchair transport company had them installed for insurance purposes and do you think it would be okay to remove?

 

[Almost There]

The roll bar is exactly that and it was installed by the company that installed the high top.

I have one very similar to it in my high top.

The earlier installations (back in the 70's & 80's) didn't have them. I saw the aftermath of a van that had rolled when hit broadside. Let's just say it wasn't pretty and leave it at that. The driver escaped with a lot of road rash, you'd have thought he was on a motorcyle.

IIWM I would not be removing it....roll bars are there for a reason.

As to insulation, you're never going to get, nor do you really want a 100% insulation in a van. Use them to attach cut pieces of insulation to and let it go as good enough! If you really want to, you can always drill in to them and use screws to attach 1x2 or 1x3 so you  have something to attach paneling to.

 

[VanKitten]

That is a great start!
I'll follow your threat to see how it all comes out.

 

[AbuelaLoca]

How are they attached to the high top? Are they just screwed in? I'm on your side with removing them for space, but if they're somehow welded to the frame of the van, it might be quite a booger to remove!

 

[Almost There]

Mine aren't attached to the fiberglass. They form an independent roll cage that is welded to the frame of the van at all the attachment points  - 4 on mine because it's only needed in the center 6' where my original roof was removed. I have van frame elsewhere that does the same job. From the picture I can see 6 attachment points on Carmon because the entire rear roof was removed.

The other purpose they serve IMO is safety for me if a tree branch ever decided that it was time to fall. It might damage the fiberglass but it wouldn't take me out with it.

Removing them might also be an insurance issue in case of an accident. It would be kind of like removing seat belts IMO.