Bedframe tips/ideas?

[bandaidqueen]

I am going to build this bedframe in a few weeks. It will fit along the back end of my van instead of on the side like this one, but I plan to copy the frame design pretty closely.

This frame looks very sturdy (important!) and simple to construct, but also heavy, because it uses 2x4s. Any tips or ideas how to make this sliding bedframe just as sturdy but cut the weight a little?

 

[B and C]

Make it out of 2x2's except for the two long unsupported spans. No knots on the spans, they are weak spots.

 

[Gypsy Freedom]

with a couple holesaws and some time/elbow grease you could drill a pattern of lightening holes in the 2x4's to remove a lot of weight and still retain the stiffness and enough of the strength.

might even look pretty cool and techie if you finish it nice and are into that sort of thing

 

[Qxxx]

A comment on dimensions. Regular twin mattresses are 38" wide and doubles are 54" wide. It looks like the widths of the 2 sections in the pictures are about 30" and 30". Beds for semi trucks are commonly 30" wide, so you can get mattresses and sheets in that size.

In my GMC van, I have a regular 8" thick foam twin-size mattress across the back, 38"x74". The width just above the wheel wheels is a perfect match, at 74-76". Unfortunately in the Savana van, there is a heavy metal strut that comes down to the top of the wheel well which causes some interference problems, that you don't have, and makes a double width bed more of a problem for me.

The front of your wheel wells will probably cause some interference problem, but you can cantilever the front edge of the bed pullout if the upper horizontal piece is strong, ie 2x4.

Assuming you are building a convertible couch-bed, then you want to pay attention to how "deep" the horizontal part is when in couch mode. Most couches are way too deep between the front edge and upright cushions in the back. Most chair seats are about 16"-19" deep while couches are much more. So assuming you do the 30",30" build, if you use an 8" cushion for the back support, then the depth of the couch will be 30"-8" = 22", not too bad.

I do about 90% of my storage under my bed, so you will want to consider what sort of containers you will want to use before finalizing your design. My containers slide right out, but if the bottom board is too thick on your design, it will interfere with pulling out the storage containers. What fun.

 

[B and C]

Another idea is plywood on edge is very strong. There is also square metal tubes or angle iron.

It all depends on what you are comfortable working with.

 

[Matildas mate]

I used 2x3 lumber and construction braces in my build. I found the braces to be sturdier than other methods of joining two pieces. And the 2x3s a nice compromise in weight. 

https://vanlivingforum.com/showthread.php?tid=34182

 

[Qxxx]

One thing I forgot to mention is, if you buy a foam mattress (available amazon, etc) you can cut it into a custom size using an electric carving knife. Eg, you could buy a double or a queen and cut it in two lengthwise.

 

[Almost There]

This frame looks very sturdy (important!) and simple to construct, but also heavy, because it uses 2x4s. Any tips or ideas how to make this sliding bedframe just as sturdy but cut the weight a little?

Unless you're planning on weight on the bed in excess of 300 lbs and/or a lot of bouncy bouncy stuff :angel: , using 2 x 4s is way overkill. it also cuts way down on the ease of storage under the bed.

The lightest way to build a wooden bed is using plywood turned on it's side. The only caveat is that you use a heavier plywood than 1/2" for the top of the bed. I used 1" because I  had it in stock from a previous bed top but 5/8s or 3/4 would have been sufficient given the distance between supports on my bed. The entire bed was constructed using Kreg pocket screws. I used piano hinge for each of the compartment tops and it's worked well. I use a 4" high density foam mattress with a pair of cheap W/M mattress toppers. If you've got lift compartments like I do it's important to make sure that the mattress is light enough for you to lift easily. I've seen people use heavy duty 10" mattresses (way overkill btw) that there is no way I could lift the weight to get in to storage compartments.

Best way to see how I build the bed is in the build link in my signature.

Previous van beds (1975 through the early 90s) used 2 x 4 but I was ignorant of better building methods and also had children that used the bed as a trampoline on occasion...

 

[maki2]

I am going to build this bedframe in a few weeks. It will fit along the back end of my van instead of on the side like this one, but I plan to copy the frame design pretty closely.

This frame looks very sturdy (important!) and simple to construct, but also heavy, because it uses 2x4s. Any tips or ideas how to make this sliding bedframe just as sturdy but cut the weight a little?

you should have one or two support legs in the span  between the two legs at the ends. That helps prevent the lengthwise frame piece from sagging and developing a permanet bow under your weight. If that bow were to take a permanent set then it will create a binding situation that makes it hard to slide in and out.

 

[maki2]

I am going to build this bedframe in a few weeks. It will fit along the back end of my van instead of on the side like this one, but I plan to copy the frame design pretty closely.

This frame looks very sturdy (important!) and simple to construct, but also heavy, because it uses 2x4s. Any tips or ideas how to make this sliding bedframe just as sturdy but cut the weight a little?

you should have one or two support legs in the span  between the two legs at the ends. That helps prevent the lengthwise frame piece from sagging and developing a permanent bow under your weight. If that bow were to take a permanent set then it will create a binding situation that makes it hard to slide in and out. The key to being able to use lighter pieces of lumber is to have more support pieces such as those legs in the center of the long pieces.

 

[maki2]

with a couple holesaws and some time/elbow grease you could drill a pattern of lightening holes in the 2x4's to remove a lot of weight and still retain the stiffness and enough of the strength.

might even look pretty cool and techie if you finish it nice and are into that sort of thing

no point in doing that, just use small pieces and create a "truss" structure.  Do some research on what a truss is and how it revolutionized how building are created. No more huge pieces of timber framing required.